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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 25, 1941)
Tha OHEGON STATESMAN, Salem, Qragon, Thursday Morning, September 25. 1341 fags nmzzi Dressy and Casual Coats Everything is good in modera tlon, and this season's coat styles five "very proof that this Is as true In fashion as'it is true as a rule of conduct! By being neither completely dressy nor completely sportsv, this fall's smartest coat becomes casual In feeling, veering in either a dressy or sport direc tion, depending on the degree of detail, fabric - and color which modifies- it . Smoothness characterizes the very fabrics of which the coats are made, as. well as the lines into which shoulder and nips are moulded. Above all things, slim- ness is achieved often enough by contrasts, as a slim waistline be tween subtle top fullness, and skirt fullness, the hips too kept slim though the front of the coat has undulating softness." ' i In line with a trend to softer effects is the treatment of coat colors, softened by their surface structure so that fine hair and heathery feeling makes them as soft as the fuzz of hair on a baby's head. Although the fur trimmed coat is very often opulently laden with a capelike collar reminiscent of Victorian fashions, or tuxedo of fur down to its hem's edge, as a fashion it is, no smarter- than the un trimmed coat! Furred or un furred, both coats proclaim their smartness by the use they- make of the most important ' new sil houette treatment.. Many Figure Types f The shoulder lines of all coats are as smooth as precise tailoring can make them. Various figures will wear various sleeve construc tions better; whether set-in, modi fled dolman or raglan. : The gen eral effect sought after is one of breadth without squareness, and although padding is used it is done only to . balance .and build into round contours the improved, ana tomical shoulder line. , i ' The. dolman .sleeve is padless, being designed with a center seam Its entire length, with a gusset usually strategically set in to keep the line of the sleeve comfortable and easy to wear. ; t .; Smartest in raglan sleeves are those 'which extend into saddle shoulder yokes. - Outgrowths of the new sleeves are detailed treat ments which suggest cape- yoke and flap seams. And any woman who ' has tried on the new fall dresses will realize the need for a coat with . sleeves softness and depth to make., way for similar dress silhouettes. Darts above the waistline, re leased fullness emanating from shoulder yokes, set-in belts shir red onto coat bodies, and slightly bloused treatments all emphasize the new feeling that has gone into coats created quite independently of foreign inspiration, by Ameri can designers for this current fall. Smooth Feeling . . As smooth as shoulders, are hips and no matter how much full ness is worked into a coat above its waistline, or how full the yard age in a coat's skirt, the actual hip contours are kept smooth and moulded, releasing to " fullness when wanted at the center-back or below the hip by means of let out gores and unstitched or lav pressed pleats. Hats Are Keys Hat creators have produced ifti teres ting surfaces In felts, many of which have the same kitten's paw surfaces which characterize coat . and, suit fabrics, and colors are perfect to coordinate with the most popular campus colors. - A. 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