Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 24, 1936)
I iw I "'ff " "V t VT jVJIV iAH - . Mle of PmUerim , 77 Stcady-Mades' History Told Southern Workmen, Early day Frontiersmen Gave Industry Start The ready-made clothing Indus try is scarcely more than a cen tury old In this' country, for in 1 8 3 , the Man-About-To wn wore the clothes of the skilled draper and the ready-made clothes worn oh the i southern plantation and the western frontier meant little to the average fashionable citi zen In that day. Appe rel Arts, in its fifth anni 1 edition edited this fall. Tersary has this to say of the ready-made ciotning inausiry: "But there were in those early days mon of-action who wanted 'clothes pf dnrability and warmth and cared not a whit for style miners, J pioneers and . sailors whose money was the product of hard labor and who wanted cheap clothing at short notice. Was Frontier Garb "Heading out Into the hills or on a short-notice whaling cruise, or returning from the frontier or the seaj after a three-year trip, ragged and threadbare, these men were apt to outfit themselves with cast-offaj or repaired second-hand clothes rather, than pay for the frills of custom tailoring or wait for. Its long manufacture and fre quent fittings. " , , "These men spent their lives in coarse,, enduring clothing, pur- on the . coast or the "west" around Cincinnati. Then, too, i sometimes a. Southern planter in i tne northern cities mlgnt wlsn to I pick up a shipment of cheap cov i erings for his slaves. n. Birth of the Industry "To ; meet thefr needs, the ready-made clothing industry was born. fc-,- At Brooks Brothers in New York City many an able seaman purchased an outfit and was re galed with a draught from the black bottle kept under the coun ter fori this purpose. Many a ; ship's captain who bought a stur dy broadcloth coat, nankeen vest i and pantaloons of cassimere had the whole' wrapped up for him in Fa black silk kerchief, for which , no charge: appeared on the bill. ' - V .- i In Rochester, Mass., was Mr. George . Booney, who since 1821 has manufactured clothing there to dispose of In nearby ; whaling ports or his Georgia es .. tablishments which . could - reach ; plantations all over the South, i Coastal j steamers carried his ; clothes In company with" woodcut ters beaded tor the oak forests of the south, and the same steamers i carried j back lumber for ship i building, cotton; for fabrics and profits for Bonney. i jiaujf a piamsnon oreraeer, ; kicking a slave In the seat of his j ready-made pants, was unaware : that the Female Missionary So ciety of Rochester was responsi ; Ble for the sewing therein, hav - tng e oinbined business acumen with religious fervor and secured ' producing pants as well as con i verts with one sweep of : the needle.-. . . :: . Jenny Lind's Comment . - i "In 1850, Jenny Lind cfled. ! "How well dressed everybody! is! Have you no poor in America? She stood on an English ship gaz ing in I pleasure and wonderment I at .the; T wharves of New' York j crowded with thousands of "suck ers to see Barnum's Imported songbird. These were the poor . . . the common people. Yet en American could raise his 'head of a Sunday and walk with the best. . Not a stylish best, but at least as clean and comfortable clothes as i any Englishman of means. . . . ; "Although the country was vir 1 tually in the same undeveloped state as in 1836. nevertheless much . had been accomplished in .growing frontier, aided by the bombshell in California when gold . was discovered in 1849. induced : manufactures to look ahead for bigger and better times... ' "Garments cut and prepared in over the whole area of NewEng land, to be made up and finished;,' garments cut In New York shops eon Id have the seems finished by ' a Dutch -"vrouw dreamily watch ing the reflection of;the Ca skill Mountains :ln ' the Tappan- Zee. and " the buttons ' affixed " by a farmer's 'wJfe-; in . the-.-far-Ang fastnesaea of the Bronotv tyr-- , - . Civil: .War Gave' Lift if" i l . ii. -WMB ii iuuuaii;vuiiiuijritt9 91,000 pairs of hands andv mak - Ing clothes vatued -at 'overv- 4 8;, ' vvv.vwusjn i.sav.., . ' - ' The ' sewing- machine as- la the clojthtog industry; ,fby ;i $50, . duct ion t and- igradualiyl repfgeing- . hand sowing despite -stubborn Pr position by - the workers. ". V In . 1861, 4000 small establishments were making clothes valued at about 136.000,000 yearly. . . The Civil war transformed over night a small-scale industry into an enormous trade benefiting by. Improved .methods of production forced Into being by urgency of .the situation. ments were operating to produce 14S.fS0,S00 of clothes In 1869, and one manufacturer alone re ported sales of $2,000000.V- " The article carries the ready- ; made article through the yearn to the present period- showing its ' raise - from a commonplace "-class- to a plane where it is sought for a value I based upon style-as "well " as utility factors. It pays especial New Bishop's Has F ine Display Features "j&g- mywr ewwig y w-& 17 Fixtures and arrangement in the North Liberty street store combine to offer the last word in conven ience to the shopper. Beautiful showcases, novel plate glass shelves eliminate stock boxes and produce an artistic and pleasing effect. ' I . ' Varsity To wn Has No. 1 Style Line Varsity Town clothes have been featured by Bishop's store for many years. These famous clothes represent the last! word in style for the college man as well as the young business man who . wants the smartest clothes at a mod erate price. The Varsity Towns fqx fall are featured in somo of the most out standing fabrics and patterns in both suits and top coats. Double breasted models have the minute's lead in style for the well dressedT man, while leading patterns con sist of clever stripes, checks and plaids. ' " j h . Fabrics, all of fine wearing materials. Include worsteds, chev iots. - cassimeres and Scotch tweeds. . :;. -v . . . "This fine line assures the buy er of the most In style and value," says Bishop's buyer. Styles in Overcoats For Young Men Follow Closely Older Models Heavy fleeces, meltons, moss finish and velours lead the east ern style parades in i overcoats for young men from 16 to 2 2 years old. Balmacaan styles or double breasteds are equally smart Here's another style tip; Stet son's new Telescope' hat is eclips ing other styles at universities, with - the "Dawson' model with wider brim and more roomy crown the favorite of these styles. Colored Shirts With New White Collar and Cuffs Shown at Store The very latest wrinkle in men's 8hirts is the Bond ! street pleat, adopted from the' favorite seller of London's famous Bond street. It comes In dark 1 shades with white collar. if i This shirt is alstep in advance of the dark tones jwhich have pre- -vr.; 1 - , r UT'7',,, Liberfy Residents i To Have Community FeedJ Thanksgiving ! LIBERTY, Nov. 23. Lib erty will have a community Thanksgiving dinner in the basement dining room of the gym bailding at 12:80 p. m., xnarsday, Tbanksgl v 1 n g day. t j The community club which is sponsoring the af fair is extending a special in vitation to al new people in the district, those who would otherwise spend the day alone, and all . others who would like to attend. Bring basket dinners and sil verware. .Plates and cups will be furnished. f iled in recent months, and come autumn tones of coppor, slote. blue and green. Double French cuffs and detachable white collar make the 'Bond street pleat the last signal In style. These shirts have been featured in Esquire, and are offered by the new" Bishop's. " -j . ' i - . Cravats Returning to , Favor with Men; Trio Of Fabrics Top Choice A basket weave fabric, a leath er back satin and a heavy moire stripe are three styles In cravats that have come to the fore this fall, according to eastern style experts. For the first time in several seasons, stores are reporting a gratifying demand for cravats that during the past few years have sold only during the holiday sea son. Tailored Button Holes Made as Special Work At Gathering of Club DETROIT, Nov. 23 The Happy Hour club met Wednesday at the r r i 5 f homo of Mrs. Earl Parker with 12 women present, A social after nooa was enjoyed after the busi ness meeting during which Mrs. Ida Hanson gave a demonstration on making tailored button holes. The next meeting will be held at the home of Mrs. McClanahanon December t. ; Mrs. Gertrude P. McClanahan of Portland arrived Friday to vis it at the home of her son and daughter-in-law, Mr. , and Mrs. George. McClanahan. 1 r -si . 1 . Scotch Dinner Is Held at 'College - - . . Program Numbers A 1 a o In Keeping with Idea For Gathering ... BRUSH COLLEGE, Not. 23 Entertaining with a 6:20 o'clock Scotch dinner at their Brush Col leges home recently were Mr. and Mrs, Ed Loose who were assisted by iMrs. Ellsa Caulder, : Mrs. Bertha Garrow, John Charge and Arthur Garrow, Lacey aspaagus ferns combined with chrysanthemums decorated the table while autumn bouquets were used effectively in the living rooms. John Charge played bag pipe numbers as the guests were seated at the table. - . J t An interesting item brought out was,' the fact that seven of the guests including Mr. and Mrs. S. M. Earl, Mr. and Mrs. James Bark ley,! Miss Margaret McAlpin, JMrs. Eliza Caulder and John Charge were born In Scotland and another guest, John Schindler, was born, in Swltserland. .-;.:-! j Scotch Program Given These program numbers i were given following dinner: bagpipe selections by John Charge; violin solo by Miss Emily Crumley; com munity sing; vocal solo, by S. M: Ear); Highland fling and sword dance by Miss Margaret McAlpin, accompanied by John Charge on bagpipes; vocal solo by Mrs. James Barkley with mandolin ac companiment by i M I s a Emily Crumley; songs by Tom Crumley, accompanied on violin by Miss Emily Crumley; comic stunts In clown costume by Mrs. ! John Schindler and Mrs. David Zantls; life I in Scotland 60 years ago as told by Mrs. James Barkley; Vir ginia reel and other folk dances by Mr. and Mrs. John Schindler. Mr. land Mrs. James Barkley, Mr. 1At Home In Oiir New '!...' - iT - -. - ii: AT HOME j :?: IN OUR N EmftOW VK Clothes are always - At. Home" wheir e style. and - lirrivi ?rivr v'it'rniiiTtifnllw intn -trtA'n iotiivA jfiYtn - - yxyp of merchandise upon which tlii store has' built its. reputation ... mer chandise of quality with a very evident value accent which has made our ross and present expansion possible. This is an invitation to see one of the - West 8 greatest new stores ... to inspect these new style hits of 1936. For Greater Selection aiLNCJb . Coramunihf Clubs : GREENWOOD, Koy, 23.---The community club held Its regular meeting Thursday with, a splendid program presented by 'Mrs. Alma O. Dempsey, president. Good book was the general topic; The pupils of this school belong to the book league and Betty Lu Evans I has read 23 books in the nine weeks of school. The. program: The primary folks dramatized a story; piano solo, Richard Jenkins; explana tion of Oregon Children's Book league book parade; Ruth Byerly presented her collection of arrowheads;- tap dance,- Zelma Allen, Jean; Allen, Betty Evans; musical numbers, solo, Georglanna Lof tus; xylophone solo, Barbara Bar ham; readings, Helen Kobersteln; solo Valeda Sweeney; education al talk on the modern trend of education, Superintendent Joshuo Wills, and - music by Honolulu Serenaders of Salem. - MIDDLE -GROVE, Not.. 231 The Community club program Fri day, was sponsored by the alumni of the grade school and took the form - of a school room - scene on the last day of school, each pupil having a part on the program. Mu sical numbers : were given by a string and harmonica quartette consisting of Genevieve Scharf, Al fred McAllister, AlTln Steinka and and Mrs. S. M. Earl, Miss Marg aret McAlpin and Arthur Garrow; humorous readings in costume by Mrs.' Ed Loose; games by all led by James Barkley. The guest list Included: Mr. and Mrs. S. M. Earl,' Mr. and Mrs. James Barkley, Mr. and Mrs. John Schindler, Miss Emily Crumley, Tom Crumley, Miss Margaret Mc Alpin, Mrs. Bertha Garrow, r Ar thur Garrow, Ms. David Tantis, Ms. Eliza Caulder, John Charge, Tom Harris, Miss Molly Pearmine, William Crumley and the hosts. Home . 1 VarsitV - Town . - Jl . C.: 17 17) Y "nrt -7L I I .v j f s jr : M ! . DaryllColwell; others by Mrs. Lola - Fletcher, GeneTiera Scharf, Mrs. Katheryn - McClaughry and Mrs. Thelma Scharf, Mrs. Vera Bassett, George F o r g a r d and Ralph Wagers; readings by Mrs. Lydia Scharf and Miss Katherme Scharf; an exhibition of tTlcks by Daryll ColweU'a little pet dog con cluded the program. Norman Fletcher, a senior at Oregon State college, acted as as school master, Mrs. W. H. Scharf was the oldest member, having graduated in 1908. It has been suggested that a program by the alumni be an annual event, SCOTTS MILLS, Nov. 23. The community club of Noble met Fri day evening. In addition to the program some new games were introduced in which all could take part. The club decided to meet December 23 and will be enter tained exclusively by the children. Everyone seemed well satisfied with the progress of the club. Re freshments were served by the women.. , ' ' '' - . .. . t . . . ' .. j : . LINCOLN.'. NOT, 23. An Inter esting' program la being arranged for the Lincoln community club meeting Friday night at the school house. Two plays will bo present ed, by local young people, the Mit chell entertainer of Salem will provide music and a group of read ings will he given. Mr. and Mrs. Fred McKInney and Mr. and Mrs. Harry Cherry are commitee on ar rangements. - ... Happy Hour Club's Dance Next Has Hard Time Idea ZENA,-Iot. 23. RIfty-two members and guests of the Happy Hour dance club enjoyed the af fair given at the . club house Sat urday night. Music was played by Mrs. Milton Stephens, Carl Miller, Clothes.'' Vairsitv V Town I i . J - ftr' tfnalit'are hosts. That's TTSclvAno- Tl.... 1 For Better . V"."' . Value Louis Cutlsr, Ralph Eohn, Lester Heney and Wesley Gregg. Lsiesa was Mrs. John Honey, who was assisted by Mrs. Theodore Xlelde, Miss Viola - Held and Lester. Hflney. Louis Butler, manager, announced a' hard-time dance for next Saturday night, Second Fire in 2 Years, Ukatclis HAZEL GREEN, Nor. 23. Tho nine-room house being built by George Tkatcb. one mile north of the Japanese church, burned thia morning about 1 o'clock. Cause of the fire is unknown. Mr. and Mrs. Tkatch, their flTe children and Mrs. Tkatch's mother were living in an old garage while the new house was being built. This garage caught' fire, but. was saved. A car standing between th old garage and the new bouse was also burned. ': . ' ' 'sm Two years ago the Tkatch fam ily lost their house and contents by fire. 1 . Rev. John K. Walpole ' Of Montana to Preach Two Sundays at Dallas ' DALLAS, Nor. 23. Final plant hare been completed by the offi cers of th Dallas Presbyterian church to haTe ReT. John K. Wal pole of Victor, Mont., occupy the pulpit of the local church for the two Sundays of November I and December . Rev. Walpole Is a former Oregon resident and is a graduate of Oregon State college. He comes as a candidate tor the local pastorate. : Special music is being prepared for th Sunday morning service by Joseph C. Hartley, director of the choir, which will Include a vocal solo by Mrs.; Josephine Al bert Spanlding. accompanied by Miss Leanna Severson. v -: ft -J -.' f . ' - ; " U. ' tribute- to the great part the de :4 signer has played In this 100-year advance. , 1