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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (March 27, 1930)
SPEED IS IT Woman Recovers Femininity In 1930 Styles; Tempo Slower in Dance Not so long ago we were step ping on tbe gas like anything dashing hither and yon making quick time whatever we did. Then we began to see the foolishness ot It all. We were tired ot bo much waste motion tired ot the straight little clothes we had to wear to get through all theee waste efforts. Then began the Renaissance of Fashion. Us girls had more leisure more time to think about what we were doing more time to plan for pictorial effets. So developed the afternoon rogue. Perhaps the idea came from our elegant Continental aisters. American women hare loos curl ed their sophistication, charm and exquisite dignity. We revived the tea hour we planned leisurely bridge parties we learned how to make haste slowly. We needed new clothes to cre ate the mood of the tea hour. So came into existence the afternoon wardrobe. Slinky clothes are the rule, of the three-to-fire . fcours. fj Lw Ana Maria a woo spprMS In M-G-M pictures has adopted all trhtte for her sports apparel, choosing two-piece suit with an gora Uun-O'shanter, sweater and Oxfords I1 in white. Skirts that trail and sleeves that are tricky are Importnt now. DeLiOng, Chanel, Patou and a few other magic Parisian names came to our aid. They re-created the delightful Empire mood with its uplifted waistline and demure necklines. They developed . the new silhouette with its moulded hiplines and hem-conscious skirts. They manipulated bows,!' flares, frills and founces Into goregoua new costumes for our new-found leisure. BTen in the dance the tempo has slowed up. At the Kits, the Plaza and the Ambassador our smartest debutantees whirl about gracefully to languishing waltses KnsSTroci and dreamy fox-trots. Tbeir tea- phere of leisure. Low-placed flares give proper fullness skirts are long and hemlnes are uneven. Tour afternoon coats and suits are more feminine, too. Suits are exauisitely tailored affairs with lavish applications of gaylak, breitschwantz or lapln. Coats use beautiful silky broadcloths and velours de laine to. fashion their form-moulded silhouettes. They flaunt many versions of the cape about their trim shoulders. All of these garments could not hare been made in a hurry they dis play a wealth of careful detail, carefully executed. To wear prints or to appear la Spring's vivid ' plain tones that's a question of Individual choice. Prints are quite all right for afternoon provided they are the right prints. Small patterns, demure and conventionalized or photographic prints are favored. In the plain tones powder past els are lovely, vivid blues and greens lend vivacity. GLOVES What reams could be told ot them. The salient features are match them with year other ac cessories, it is perfectly, permis sible to wear light gloves with a dark costume provided your stockings and your Jewelry match them. For your tailored costumes be sure your gloves ere simply styled slip-ons, preferably ot washable suede, pigskin or cha mois. For the afternoon costume you may hare a little more latitude in the glove choice. Ton may choose cuffed cloves or gauntlets with heavy embroidery or the simple little one-clasp or one-button lgloves of soft, sup ple kidskln. For evening most smart women favor the extreme ly long kidskln gloves that soft ly gather Into ripples from the wrist to the elbow. THE KEBCffJEF The new elegance in . the eve ning mode with -Its trailing dra peries and long slim lies has re vived the vogue for the decora tive kerchief. Great squares of sheer chiffon with hemstitched or hand rolled hems printed in lovely flower patterns. Tones to harmonise with 1 ; your ' frock. These are to be worn atHhe . wirst fastened on with a nar I row ribbon bracelet, Spectator sports ensembles may bo complet ed with brilliantly colored er kerchiefs at the same ;'tjme - most of . them are matehed by a huge bandana or Deaurllle. scarf rom about the shoulders. t '" HUadfs Party Frcdk yyyw,-, bsSbbBS v, .:;--.: V - '- "'. a.w1m V ' '." 4 'i j -m '; . -y x r;: f, . , 4 ' ''' , e. ' " ''' X v, r 1 : . r , . i , - t c .- W-sm.,.-, --- ii.nl,nnlr.wn.ni..iii NEW FASHIONS BOYISH; LACE Days of Half-Century in Present Styles for Milady- From her soft and lace trimmed negligee to her long and clinging evening gown, the 1930 smart woman is utterly feminine. Masculine hair cuts belong to the past, the boyish sport clothes era is orer. The new fashions are rerolu- tionary, struggling against tradi tion. Natural Lines Followed Their inspiration Is modern rhythms, their ideal the line of the human form. All rigidity and constraints are done away with. Color combination will be de cidedly Important in clothes this spring. The new colors are as feminine as the new line. Pastel shades are the new note tor spring Instead of the brilliant contrasts of last year. The new mode permits full lat itude for self expression upon all occasions. Fashion has gone sheer this season and charming things are being done with laces, nets and ehlffens. F Report Is Given - By New York Expert; Pastels Popular Dress materials printed In flower and modernistic motifs will lead the spring fashion par ade, according to Travis Banton, fashion creator for Paramount who is now in New York, having just returned from a trip to Eu rope, where he surveyed the latest trends In new modes at Paris and the Bivlera. Banton reports that cornflower blues and dustv pinks create many ef the printed chiffon ma terials favored by the Parisians, while the crepes use backgrounds of navy blue and black, with bold flower designs in yellow, rea. green and orange. Velveteen Jackets In tho pre dominating ccior of the print used in the tik beneath, are seen at Riviera resorts, the styl ist reports, and the combination of bricht blue and white In both prints and Plain matsrlats is the most popular color scheme xor sports wear. Pastel Shades for Dinner Dinner gowns will be fashion ed in nrints of pastel shades. with lace trimming. BiacK lace as well as dyed pink and orchid lace Is used as trimming for these chiffon orints. Afternoon prints in black and white, created in crepes as well as chiffos, accompanied by large black or red straw hats wni im an important role U summer modes. Banten aso remarks on the Im portance of all white outfits for summer wear. In silk as well as cotton materials. The cap sleeve has taken the place of last year's sleeveless fashions, and but few of the pro-oeason sport frocks are backless. HANOVER, Germany AP) Rev. H. Kuenchmeyer, a local protectant clergyman, was sent enced to three months imprison ment because he ealled the Reich stag a pigsty in a public speech. The penalty was fixed under law which bans defamation ot the re public or of government officials. BAMBKRO. Germany AP) The village of Ebern near here not only collects no taxes from Its residents bat gives each house hold a load of firewood and Sixty marks cash. This represents prof its of enormous forests owned by the town and so well managed that they more than pay all com munity FLOWER LEADS CITIF FIGHT MODES FROCKS GOOD Gown Called to Mind To be really chic this season. one must have a lace frock. They are undeniably smart and ador ably feminine for formal, after noon, dinner and evening wear. In this season of picturesque fashions, reminiscent of the CO's, lace rightly leads the mode. Chiffen Frocks Important The chiffon frocks also occupy an important place in the new mode. Individualized by capes. Jackets and bits of lace and oth er refinement that are 1930, make the chiffon frocks most popular for all occasions. The new printed frocks, and flat crepe frocks will be distinctly in favor. Cotton and linen frocks will also hold an Important place in the new fashions. The waistline is definitely de fined In all smart models. There is less flare In tbe smartest mod els lor spring. Fullness remains loir and Is applied more lubtly: gored effects are often used. Pleats return to smart cluster treatments that give width with out decided fullness. FIFTH ANNUAL SPRING OPENING IT 0 B EI IT 7:30 P.M. Ifou and tout family and 7011c neighbors ft to be the guests of Salem merchants on this big gala nite. WjP- Windows Will Bs Unveiled Promptly At 7:30 Five Hands will entertain you a' treasure hunt of hundred of dol lars worth of free merchandise- Girls' 'dress &orryn&d feu? and manx other features to Inter COME BE OUR Sophisticated, Graceful and Elegant Gowns Are Now Available - What a versatile season this is! And a fascinating one, too. Not only can you drees to suit your type but you can change your type by your choice ot frocks. . Ton eaa be the perfect picture of the outdoor briskly striding girl the living essence of the ntatropim i Z - orlA important woman executive the charming counterpart of the leis urely hostess or the brought' up-to-date slemure young thing of the 90's. All this can be youessentlally yon - merely by sagaciously choosing your clothes. You'll be vX;-w-:M(-:e:oweo; MMHrtes .w.V.v. A "N delighted with the changes in your mood and your very person allty that can be brought about by wearing these perfectly lore- ly 1930 clothes. Tou've probably longed to look sophisticated and graceful and elegant. Well Chanel designed an evening gown that will do just that for you. The ines are long and slim and graceful she used tulle to make it end started the fullness way down so that the billows seem to grow out of the slender, slightly curving bodice and hiplines. Another night you're feeling young and shy, perhaps. Then you'll want the printed cotton net frock looking for all the world as though It had been de Signed for a Southern belle of the gay 90's. It has a high waist line but Is amply decollete for all thatboasts tiny puff sleeves that are ribbon bound. , : :-:-m :o:-:-: .:: v. . . -If iA -'sr - ke lw M fUr ; T'Vr tj i ' 'i , i g:-:-:-r-:-:-: :-:-?:-.-x : :-: x-:- . b f t JL for that Inreortant hnslaes In terview yonTl bit on an at it yon choose a aesnl-Corinal tailor ed suit, Sharkitln la Its fabric. a new woolen weave ef supple texture, and it makes tine art of Its tailoring. Kipped, In at the waistline ever so subtly and with mannish lapels. With It a blouse or Indisputable freshness, soft. white or eggshell flat crepe with discreetly feminine touches; fi chn or Jabot or little self-bows. Remember to keep your acces sories in the same tenor dis creetly feminine, apparently ex tremely tailored. Country Club Popular Driviax out to tha countrr club means making a good en trance ta the presence ot the as sembled members. Besides . being eemtortably warm en route. Ton will find a richly furred top coat er nubby tweed Just the thing- tor tho drive. And underneath it a matching sports suit com pleted with a frivolous blouse the coat off you're perfectly at tired tor nncheon and bridge. Don't, above all. decide that certain clothes are not tor you. Try them on look them over give yourself chance to adapt yourself to them. It'll be such fun youl enjoy every minute of shopping and every minute of wearing them. GREAT CURIOSITY On the wind-swept reaches of Petnt Lobos, not far from Pebble beach, the scene of the last Na tional Golf championship tour ney. Is the carcass of an enor mous jrhale. The legend concern ing the giant of the deep has been erased from the wooden board on the wire fence surround ing the mammal. Whence came this carcass on the barren gran ite point overlooking the bay? A group of westerners recently visited Del Monte, Monterey, the 17 mile drive, and paused at Point Lobos to speculate as to the coming of the whale carcass. The party used a Chevrolet coach on their journey and declared that from an economical and readabil ity standpoint tho new Cherrolet six is truly a remarkable automo bile. One version is that the whale was harpooned in the South Pa cific and that it erentually floun dered on to the Point Lobos coast. There is some strength in this, ac cording to investigators, who state that the dangerous craft of whaling undoubtedly occurred In times too early for systematic rec ord. These observers say that Oc there gives an account of Norse men whaling In the ninth century and that Alfrlc, archbishop ot Canterbury, mentioned whaling in the eleventh century. At first. only stranded whales were attack ed, but later, wateh was kept from especially built towers and then as tho whales became wary, boats were fitted out and men searched for them useing the harpoon. To day the Sven Foyn harpoon gun, in universal use, is the most popu lar whaling gun. wiEini vf I X The Home ofj p 7"IVACIOUS Footwear at eps out - .. ; x I ild V wit spria-caj eolorfel and XxVWNCVVV YtwfZ ' UeidtSr new. Htrt too wQ Cad f oCSsSxsw 2- ! 1 Tw3& wr P1 in hddWa and- xJivKSSlwii t fctCH If suedes all attuned to the hs.pifrt -: oSSKJ5v t WPhk OREGON j Br v MUmX shoe company - YET It DEB Suit Popularity Does Mot as Xet Replace Need of Outer Garment- By ISABEL CHTJLDS Tailored lines predominate in, coats this spring, but no more need milady meet herself coming dowa the street: women ot fa shion whne seen in groups will not resemble an orphan asylum out for an airing for. although Fashion has set very definite standards and rulings as to pring coats. Individualism is the keynote. Purred coats are decidedly not In the majority, yet lapln. broad- tall, galrac. and other short hair furs as well as the usual summer furs and caracul are seen on many of the new dress-sport com binations of the season and beau tifully complement the pastel fab rics with which they are used. Salem shoos and stores are showing an unusually large and comprehensive line ot coats, and buyers Btate emphatically that the popularity of the suit this season does not make the spring coat a mere addition to the wardrobe. In fact, it Is their col lective opinion that the feminine type dress In lightweight fabrics demands a spring wrap. While the princess line is still gaming In popularity with the flared skirt a close second. straight-line models are also num. bered among the season's smart' est. The natural waistline of al most every coat has a belt ot some kind, ranging from the very wide belt to the narrow tie; some models are belted only in the front or back, but all are belted somewhere. Collars differ radically: Many are the small straight quilted ones which became so popular 94 last summer and fall, furred collars are shawl or tiny, while the lightweight flannel and broadcoth coats are wearing a small rounded collar if either a full or wing-cape adorns the seeve or back. Cuffs are wide. narrow, or In a tew cases com petely lacking. Color for Tailored Models The plainness of tailored mod els is relieved by color; many shades of blue, green, orchid, and yellow are being shown in Salem stores, while peach and various shades o rose are gaining- In favor. Camel hair and many types' of imported tweeds are additions to the nsual lise of coat fabrics and many of them will be worn with separate fur neckpieces. The use of a variety of lines. colors and fabrics has enabled designers to make tailored coats individual and feminine and mer chants to offer them st a wide range ot prices. Salem merchants are convinced that new lines and colors will be especially attractive to Salem women, and 'have plentifully stocked their stores with really smart and beautiful garments, SUITS ILL E LIMED All Ages and All Occasions to Seek This Garb, Says Fashion Observer Dame Fashion presumes to In sist that a spring wardrobe will bo no smarter than the suit that. Is chosen te go Into it. With this as an edict It be hooves us to investigate and in vestigate wo will. Already X am encouraged for I see great leeway in the Fashion Cards. Suits for all Types. Suits tor all Occasions. Suits for ail Ages. That In reality Is the line-up. For the Junior Miss and Misses I would almost wager they would prefer the smart short jacket For short lined jackets hare countless smart themes. First there Is the fitted coat, with inverted waist darts and tail ored, notched lapels. Tho style is developed with or without pock ets and is quite mannish and dis tinguished. A second theme Is of similar line and length but assumes the tuxedo lapel treatment. In a few eases lined back with silk. 1 T G Others more and less - jThe be'tcd styles are good., and exception ally youthful. The - belt falls ag the normal waist and Is always made of self mat-lal. Some examples ot the true Nor folk are popular. And the short banded lumber-jacket cut Is a'. real pet among the sub-debs. For dressier wear the peplum suit with the. short flared, bat tailored ruffle is chosen. Double breasted styles Tie with single, but do not reach the let ter's peak ot Importance.' So Indispensable Is this afore mentioned suit vogue, and so thoroughly has ft been recognis ed that it would enact no hard ship It we were forced to choose a different one for every dlvk sioa of the day. For sports It would be a tweed or a knotty woolen, with a lum ber jacket cut, or a box coat or perhaps, a wide tailored belt mod el. For street It would require a single or double breasted tailored variety of mens suiting. Lido er suede cloth. Indeed it might in clude broadcloth or convert. For afternoon the dressmaker type with peplums ' er scarf col lars would be undeniably proper. As would also the silk printed ensembles or the taffeta and satin dressy models. And for evening one would know they were correct in a chif fon with detachable jackets. JL MODERN Spring's newest fa shion is this smart one-button coat not yet generally shown i n ready made stocks, but tailored for you by KAHN in any desir ed pattern. Order to measure now. YouH be six months ahead in style. 1LJ
