SPEED IS IT
Woman Recovers Femininity
In 1930 Styles; Tempo
Slower in Dance
Not so long ago we were step
ping on tbe gas like anything
dashing hither and yon making
quick time whatever we did. Then
we began to see the foolishness ot
It all. We were tired ot bo much
waste motion tired ot the
straight little clothes we had to
wear to get through all theee
waste efforts.
Then began the Renaissance of
Fashion. Us girls had more leisure
more time to think about what
we were doing more time to plan
for pictorial effets. So developed
the afternoon rogue.
Perhaps the idea came from
our elegant Continental aisters.
American women hare loos curl
ed their sophistication, charm and
exquisite dignity. We revived the
tea hour we planned leisurely
bridge parties we learned how
to make haste slowly.
We needed new clothes to cre
ate the mood of the tea hour. So
came into existence the afternoon
wardrobe. Slinky clothes are the
rule, of the three-to-fire . fcours.
fj
Lw
Ana Maria a woo spprMS In M-G-M
pictures has adopted all
trhtte for her sports apparel,
choosing two-piece suit with an
gora Uun-O'shanter, sweater and
Oxfords I1 in white.
Skirts that trail and sleeves
that are tricky are Importnt now.
DeLiOng, Chanel, Patou and a
few other magic Parisian names
came to our aid. They re-created
the delightful Empire mood with
its uplifted waistline and demure
necklines. They developed . the
new silhouette with its moulded
hiplines and hem-conscious skirts.
They manipulated bows,!' flares,
frills and founces Into goregoua
new costumes for our new-found
leisure.
BTen in the dance the tempo
has slowed up. At the Kits, the
Plaza and the Ambassador our
smartest debutantees whirl about
gracefully to languishing waltses
KnsSTroci
and dreamy fox-trots. Tbeir tea-
phere of leisure. Low-placed flares
give proper fullness skirts are
long and hemlnes are uneven.
Tour afternoon coats and suits
are more feminine, too. Suits are
exauisitely tailored affairs with
lavish applications of gaylak,
breitschwantz or lapln. Coats use
beautiful silky broadcloths and
velours de laine to. fashion their
form-moulded silhouettes. They
flaunt many versions of the cape
about their trim shoulders. All of
these garments could not hare
been made in a hurry they dis
play a wealth of careful detail,
carefully executed.
To wear prints or to appear
la Spring's vivid ' plain tones
that's a question of Individual
choice. Prints are quite all right
for afternoon provided they are
the right prints. Small patterns,
demure and conventionalized or
photographic prints are favored.
In the plain tones powder past
els are lovely, vivid blues and
greens lend vivacity.
GLOVES
What reams could be told ot
them. The salient features are
match them with year other ac
cessories, it is perfectly, permis
sible to wear light gloves with a
dark costume provided your
stockings and your Jewelry match
them. For your tailored costumes
be sure your gloves ere simply
styled slip-ons, preferably ot
washable suede, pigskin or cha
mois. For the afternoon costume
you may hare a little more
latitude in the glove choice. Ton
may choose cuffed cloves or
gauntlets with heavy embroidery
or the simple little one-clasp
or one-button lgloves of soft, sup
ple kidskln. For evening most
smart women favor the extreme
ly long kidskln gloves that soft
ly gather Into ripples from the
wrist to the elbow.
THE KEBCffJEF
The new elegance in . the eve
ning mode with -Its trailing dra
peries and long slim lies has re
vived the vogue for the decora
tive kerchief. Great squares of
sheer chiffon with hemstitched
or hand rolled hems printed in
lovely flower patterns. Tones to
harmonise with 1 ; your ' frock.
These are to be worn atHhe
. wirst fastened on with a nar
I row ribbon bracelet, Spectator
sports ensembles may bo complet
ed with brilliantly colored er
kerchiefs at the same ;'tjme
- most of . them are matehed by a
huge bandana or Deaurllle. scarf
rom about the shoulders. t '"
HUadfs Party Frcdk
yyyw,-, bsSbbBS
v, .:;--.:
V - '-
"'. a.w1m
V
' '."
4 'i
j -m
'; . -y x
r;:
f, . ,
4 '
''' ,
e. ' "
''' X
v,
r
1
: .
r , .
i , -
t c .-
W-sm.,.-, --- ii.nl,nnlr.wn.ni..iii
NEW FASHIONS
BOYISH; LACE
Days of Half-Century
in Present Styles for Milady-
From her soft and lace trimmed
negligee to her long and clinging
evening gown, the 1930 smart
woman is utterly feminine.
Masculine hair cuts belong to
the past, the boyish sport clothes
era is orer.
The new fashions are rerolu-
tionary, struggling against tradi
tion.
Natural Lines Followed
Their inspiration Is modern
rhythms, their ideal the line of
the human form. All rigidity and
constraints are done away with.
Color combination will be de
cidedly Important in clothes this
spring.
The new colors are as feminine
as the new line. Pastel shades are
the new note tor spring Instead of
the brilliant contrasts of last year.
The new mode permits full lat
itude for self expression upon all
occasions.
Fashion has gone sheer this
season and charming things are
being done with laces, nets and
ehlffens.
F
Report Is Given -
By New York Expert;
Pastels Popular
Dress materials printed In
flower and modernistic motifs
will lead the spring fashion par
ade, according to Travis Banton,
fashion creator for Paramount
who is now in New York, having
just returned from a trip to Eu
rope, where he surveyed the
latest trends In new modes at
Paris and the Bivlera.
Banton reports that cornflower
blues and dustv pinks create
many ef the printed chiffon ma
terials favored by the Parisians,
while the crepes use backgrounds
of navy blue and black, with bold
flower designs in yellow, rea.
green and orange.
Velveteen Jackets In tho pre
dominating ccior of the print
used in the tik beneath, are
seen at Riviera resorts, the styl
ist reports, and the combination
of bricht blue and white In both
prints and Plain matsrlats is the
most popular color scheme xor
sports wear.
Pastel Shades for Dinner
Dinner gowns will be fashion
ed in nrints of pastel shades.
with lace trimming. BiacK lace
as well as dyed pink and orchid
lace Is used as trimming for these
chiffon orints.
Afternoon prints in black and
white, created in crepes as well
as chiffos, accompanied by large
black or red straw hats wni im
an important role U summer
modes.
Banten aso remarks on the Im
portance of all white outfits for
summer wear. In silk as well as
cotton materials. The cap sleeve
has taken the place of last year's
sleeveless fashions, and but few
of the pro-oeason sport frocks
are backless.
HANOVER, Germany AP)
Rev. H. Kuenchmeyer, a local
protectant clergyman, was sent
enced to three months imprison
ment because he ealled the Reich
stag a pigsty in a public speech.
The penalty was fixed under law
which bans defamation ot the re
public or of government officials.
BAMBKRO. Germany AP)
The village of Ebern near here
not only collects no taxes from
Its residents bat gives each house
hold a load of firewood and Sixty
marks cash. This represents prof
its of enormous forests owned by
the town and so well managed
that they more than pay all com
munity
FLOWER LEADS
CITIF
FIGHT MODES
FROCKS GOOD
Gown Called to Mind
To be really chic this season.
one must have a lace frock. They
are undeniably smart and ador
ably feminine for formal, after
noon, dinner and evening wear.
In this season of picturesque
fashions, reminiscent of the CO's,
lace rightly leads the mode.
Chiffen Frocks Important
The chiffon frocks also occupy
an important place in the new
mode. Individualized by capes.
Jackets and bits of lace and oth
er refinement that are 1930, make
the chiffon frocks most popular
for all occasions.
The new printed frocks, and
flat crepe frocks will be distinctly
in favor.
Cotton and linen frocks will
also hold an Important place in
the new fashions.
The waistline is definitely de
fined In all smart models. There
is less flare In tbe smartest mod
els lor spring. Fullness remains
loir and Is applied more lubtly:
gored effects are often used.
Pleats return to smart cluster
treatments that give width with
out decided fullness.
FIFTH ANNUAL
SPRING
OPENING
IT 0 B EI IT
7:30 P.M.
Ifou and tout family and 7011c
neighbors ft to be the guests of
Salem merchants on this big gala
nite. WjP-
Windows Will Bs Unveiled
Promptly At 7:30
Five Hands will entertain you a'
treasure hunt of hundred of dol
lars worth of free merchandise-
Girls' 'dress &orryn&d feu?
and manx other features to Inter
COME BE
OUR
Sophisticated, Graceful and
Elegant Gowns Are
Now Available
- What a versatile season this
is! And a fascinating one, too.
Not only can you drees to suit
your type but you can change
your type by your choice ot
frocks. .
Ton eaa be the perfect picture
of the outdoor briskly striding
girl the living essence of the
ntatropim i Z - orlA
important woman executive the
charming counterpart of the leis
urely hostess or the brought'
up-to-date slemure young thing
of the 90's.
All this can be youessentlally
yon - merely by sagaciously
choosing your clothes. You'll be
vX;-w-:M(-:e:oweo; MMHrtes
.w.V.v. A
"N
delighted with the changes in
your mood and your very person
allty that can be brought about
by wearing these perfectly lore-
ly 1930 clothes.
Tou've probably longed to look
sophisticated and graceful and
elegant. Well Chanel designed
an evening gown that will do just
that for you. The ines are long
and slim and graceful she used
tulle to make it end started the
fullness way down so that the
billows seem to grow out of the
slender, slightly curving bodice
and hiplines.
Another night you're feeling
young and shy, perhaps. Then
you'll want the printed cotton
net frock looking for all the
world as though It had been de
Signed for a Southern belle of
the gay 90's. It has a high waist
line but Is amply decollete for
all thatboasts tiny puff sleeves
that are ribbon bound.
, : :-:-m :o:-:-: .:: v. . .
-If iA -'sr -
ke lw M
fUr ; T'Vr tj
i ' 'i , i
g:-:-:-r-:-:-: :-:-?:-.-x : :-: x-:- .
b f t
JL
for that Inreortant hnslaes In
terview yonTl bit on an at it
yon choose a aesnl-Corinal tailor
ed suit, Sharkitln la Its fabric.
a new woolen weave ef supple
texture, and it makes tine art
of Its tailoring. Kipped, In at the
waistline ever so subtly and with
mannish lapels. With It a blouse
or Indisputable freshness, soft.
white or eggshell flat crepe with
discreetly feminine touches; fi
chn or Jabot or little self-bows.
Remember to keep your acces
sories in the same tenor dis
creetly feminine, apparently ex
tremely tailored.
Country Club Popular
Driviax out to tha countrr
club means making a good en
trance ta the presence ot the as
sembled members. Besides . being
eemtortably warm en route. Ton
will find a richly furred top coat
er nubby tweed Just the thing-
tor tho drive. And underneath
it a matching sports suit com
pleted with a frivolous blouse
the coat off you're perfectly at
tired tor nncheon and bridge.
Don't, above all. decide that
certain clothes are not tor you.
Try them on look them over
give yourself chance to adapt
yourself to them. It'll be such
fun youl enjoy every minute of
shopping and every minute of
wearing them.
GREAT CURIOSITY
On the wind-swept reaches of
Petnt Lobos, not far from Pebble
beach, the scene of the last Na
tional Golf championship tour
ney. Is the carcass of an enor
mous jrhale. The legend concern
ing the giant of the deep has
been erased from the wooden
board on the wire fence surround
ing the mammal. Whence came
this carcass on the barren gran
ite point overlooking the bay?
A group of westerners recently
visited Del Monte, Monterey, the
17 mile drive, and paused at
Point Lobos to speculate as to the
coming of the whale carcass. The
party used a Chevrolet coach on
their journey and declared that
from an economical and readabil
ity standpoint tho new Cherrolet
six is truly a remarkable automo
bile.
One version is that the whale
was harpooned in the South Pa
cific and that it erentually floun
dered on to the Point Lobos coast.
There is some strength in this, ac
cording to investigators, who
state that the dangerous craft of
whaling undoubtedly occurred In
times too early for systematic rec
ord. These observers say that Oc
there gives an account of Norse
men whaling In the ninth century
and that Alfrlc, archbishop ot
Canterbury, mentioned whaling in
the eleventh century. At first.
only stranded whales were attack
ed, but later, wateh was kept from
especially built towers and then
as tho whales became wary, boats
were fitted out and men searched
for them useing the harpoon. To
day the Sven Foyn harpoon gun,
in universal use, is the most popu
lar whaling gun.
wiEini
vf I X The Home ofj
p 7"IVACIOUS Footwear at eps out - .. ; x I
ild V wit spria-caj eolorfel and XxVWNCVVV
YtwfZ ' UeidtSr new. Htrt too wQ Cad f oCSsSxsw 2-
! 1 Tw3& wr P1 in hddWa and- xJivKSSlwii t
fctCH If suedes all attuned to the hs.pifrt -: oSSKJ5v t
WPhk OREGON j Br v
MUmX shoe company -
YET It DEB
Suit Popularity Does Mot as
Xet Replace Need of
Outer Garment-
By ISABEL CHTJLDS
Tailored lines predominate in,
coats this spring, but no more
need milady meet herself coming
dowa the street: women ot fa
shion whne seen in groups will
not resemble an orphan asylum
out for an airing for. although
Fashion has set very definite
standards and rulings as to
pring coats. Individualism is the
keynote.
Purred coats are decidedly not
In the majority, yet lapln. broad-
tall, galrac. and other short hair
furs as well as the usual summer
furs and caracul are seen on
many of the new dress-sport com
binations of the season and beau
tifully complement the pastel fab
rics with which they are used.
Salem shoos and stores are
showing an unusually large and
comprehensive line ot coats, and
buyers Btate emphatically that
the popularity of the suit this
season does not make the spring
coat a mere addition to the
wardrobe. In fact, it Is their col
lective opinion that the feminine
type dress In lightweight fabrics
demands a spring wrap.
While the princess line is still
gaming In popularity with the
flared skirt a close second.
straight-line models are also num.
bered among the season's smart'
est. The natural waistline of al
most every coat has a belt ot
some kind, ranging from the very
wide belt to the narrow tie; some
models are belted only in the
front or back, but all are belted
somewhere.
Collars differ radically: Many
are the small straight quilted
ones which became so popular
94 last summer and fall, furred
collars are shawl or tiny, while
the lightweight flannel and
broadcoth coats are wearing a
small rounded collar if either a
full or wing-cape adorns the
seeve or back. Cuffs are wide.
narrow, or In a tew cases com
petely lacking.
Color for Tailored Models
The plainness of tailored mod
els is relieved by color; many
shades of blue, green, orchid, and
yellow are being shown in Salem
stores, while peach and various
shades o rose are gaining- In
favor.
Camel hair and many types' of
imported tweeds are additions to
the nsual lise of coat fabrics and
many of them will be worn with
separate fur neckpieces.
The use of a variety of lines.
colors and fabrics has enabled
designers to make tailored coats
individual and feminine and mer
chants to offer them st a wide
range ot prices.
Salem merchants are convinced
that new lines and colors will be
especially attractive to Salem
women, and 'have plentifully
stocked their stores with really
smart and beautiful garments,
SUITS ILL E
LIMED
All Ages and All Occasions to
Seek This Garb, Says
Fashion Observer
Dame Fashion presumes to In
sist that a spring wardrobe will
bo no smarter than the suit that.
Is chosen te go Into it.
With this as an edict It be
hooves us to investigate and in
vestigate wo will.
Already X am encouraged for I
see great leeway in the Fashion
Cards.
Suits for all Types.
Suits tor all Occasions.
Suits for ail Ages.
That In reality Is the line-up.
For the Junior Miss and Misses
I would almost wager they would
prefer the smart short jacket
For short lined jackets hare
countless smart themes.
First there Is the fitted coat,
with inverted waist darts and tail
ored, notched lapels. Tho style is
developed with or without pock
ets and is quite mannish and dis
tinguished. A second theme Is of similar
line and length but assumes the
tuxedo lapel treatment. In a few
eases lined back with silk.
1
T
G
Others more and less
- jThe be'tcd styles are good., and
exception ally youthful. The - belt
falls ag the normal waist and Is
always made of self mat-lal.
Some examples ot the true Nor
folk are popular. And the short
banded lumber-jacket cut Is a'.
real pet among the sub-debs.
For dressier wear the peplum
suit with the. short flared, bat
tailored ruffle is chosen.
Double breasted styles Tie with
single, but do not reach the let
ter's peak ot Importance.'
So Indispensable Is this afore
mentioned suit vogue, and so
thoroughly has ft been recognis
ed that it would enact no hard
ship It we were forced to choose
a different one for every dlvk
sioa of the day.
For sports It would be a tweed
or a knotty woolen, with a lum
ber jacket cut, or a box coat or
perhaps, a wide tailored belt mod
el. For street It would require a
single or double breasted tailored
variety of mens suiting. Lido er
suede cloth. Indeed it might in
clude broadcloth or convert.
For afternoon the dressmaker
type with peplums ' er scarf col
lars would be undeniably proper.
As would also the silk printed
ensembles or the taffeta and satin
dressy models.
And for evening one would
know they were correct in a chif
fon with detachable jackets.
JL
MODERN
Spring's newest fa
shion is this smart
one-button coat
not yet generally
shown i n ready
made stocks, but
tailored for you by
KAHN in any desir
ed pattern. Order to
measure now. YouH
be six months ahead
in style.
1LJ