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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 19, 1929)
The OttEGOIf STATESMAN, Salen, Oregon, Thursday Morning; September 19, 1929 page TWirrurN to UFOENHEMIS DRESS DECREE Flounces and Ruffles are Prescribed for Night; Fashions Change Evaalng dresses, let's see; there most e the antveu hemline, aboat lour Ucbes below the , knees In front and then "dripping" to ft point nt the heels and dripping Is what these hemlines do tor they are mostly one tier after another ot raffles or flares, that sUde away, from the front hemline to length In the extreme back. . Then there Is much mora often thaa not the saggestloa of a wstteline aad a high one at that. Now, don't think ot a belt to identify the waist line never that bat a bit of fitting in to the form by means ot fanny little swirls, or drapes on Golor Still Important Item; Brown Leads, Blue, Blade in Next to Favorite Gome Silk Not as Popular as Before; Brocades and Lovely Crepes Popular for Afternoon Says Expert From New York City 42 ' 1 " ' - fHt kj fii ' ; , -1 I i - 7 lit' '" '1 Mary Walls, of New York City has some Interesting things to say of materials and styles. By lavestl gatlon It has been fonnd that Sa lem stores are able to assist a buy er in carrying oat any idea Mis Walling may hare started and so she Is qsoted here. fa part she says "As a guide to efficient shopping for the present season It Is good to know a few facta such as the following: "First what are. the favorite fabrics for fall? In silks there Is not so much that is rery new just now. For afternoons we are using brocades and lorely crepes, and strange to say, there is always a liberal showing of thin materials because, In deference to half-warm days when one mast wear the fall coat, these light frocks are ex tremely comfortable. n One will make no mistake with relTet. for it always occupies a prominent position In autumn collections. But this year the vel vet' costumes are beautifully adorned and softened by chiffons and embroideries. In choosing your gown, then, see that it has the lingerie touch at neck and sleeves, and the soft, feminine draping that Is so alluring. Kasha Twills Softened Even the kasha twills this sea son are softened by lingerie puffs or cuffs and collars of chiffon, mousselaine or embroidery. One import in navy kasha a rery ln dirldnal model has its entire bo dice embroidered fn citron-colored silk, with deft touches of llngerteH at the neckline and sleere. "Another, of navy autumn weight crepe, embroidered In sfl Ter thread and lemon-yellow wool, orts Eease the side or tucksJust 'most any way to get the result of a bit of a waistline. Many of these gowns are fitted about the hips in fact nmst of them are. Then soma place between -the waist line and the knees, and It Is not parti cular where flounces, or ruffles, or flares, or gondeta, begin creat ing a sort of -eaaeadinr' effect. Price Go Soaring r .These yards of materials make the price of an evening dre3 go soaring. Flowers, save real ones. do not appear so much, but bows are In profusion, mostly on the side.- ; Judging from the style you will realize-that materials are soft "which as a rule create evening dresses these days. Chiffon vel vets, chiffons, soft satins, and bro caded material in lame (pro nounced lama) -r any of Its fam ily, e Another thing to note Is that the evening gown while low is not extreme, and this with the snug waist line . gives a much more graceful effect. LOllEWSlBIB Sp (3) Une feminine grace that is marked in its appeal is that of ease in nfttion. Sports suits such as the above emphasize this. has a deep camisole and puffed sleevelets ot white mousselaine. Both frocks are quite dressy and distinctive, yet, hare a tailored note which makes them doubly praetieaL I should consider them ideal for bridge, an afternoon wedding, or any dressy daytime occasion. . "In the photograph we find Il lustrated two very handsome an tttmn costumes.. The short fur Jacket ensemble Is a Jenny model in black far doth; the afternoon gown is of lustrous chiffon velvet designed by Lanvin. Jenny Model Odd One "An odd feature of the Jenny model s the use of black fur cloth, white moire, skunk banding and ermine four differta fabrics to fashion the one suit. But aren't they charming together? ,A Patou hat ot silky braid that suggests the markings of the fur is shown with this costume, which would also be suitable for the afternoon wed ding, the matinee or for dining and afterward passing on to the theatre. "Another Import featuring the short fur Jacket has a hip-length coat of gray coney and a grey gown of autumn-weight crepe. "The velvet gown illustrated is In the new shade of clove TSrewn; a color having soft . purplish; pinky-brown lights. It is molded slightly to the flgnre, with a lengthened back line and a from gathered in the new crushed ef fect. The chiffon and embroidered edging are in a delicious shade of , mauve pink that blends back into i the clove color, yet adds lightness j and color -to the costume. The hat is a russet velvet turban by Re boux. - "For eevnlng there will be the IoTely embroideries, combined with tulles, chiffons, satins and velvets again. A great deal of tulle and taffeta .and some white satin will be shown for the debutante. nOe gown in particular cornea, to mind as I write. It is a filmy crea tion ml white tulle with bouffant skirt arranged in points that touch the floor and a bodice of silver sequins and silver thread embroid ered on white tulle. Like .a fairy dress it is and perfect for its purpose. White For Debutante "White, la, of course, usually preferred by the debutante, bat there Is no longer any tradition in this respect; The wearer may have her own sweet way about eolor. And this is as it should be, for every debutante has a long- cherished dream ot Just how she wants to look for the great event. Bads and Brides are alike on this point, and both should be allowed to dream themselves right Into the costumes they want to wear. "In the present mode there is a strong tendency toward princess form-fitted lines which, because of the shortness ot skirts, seem most desirable. The princess effect, ac cording to the psychology of length, gives an unbroken line from shoulder to hem and so adds grace and charm to the figure, This new molded silhouette will be found in all departments of dress Iflcorsetine. in under-garments. gowns, coats, sultg and even in fur garments of the pliable type. , "At this time or the year the trend. In blouses jbr toward lovely metal fabric which Imply luxury aid the rich, burnished effects ot autumn. To the dressy suit only, ot course, ahoald ;b given the metallic blouse. For tweed and cloth anlt a crepe blouse or Jer sey ot the semi-sports type, serves to the best purpose. And the new Jerseys coace in exoaltte, colorful weaves, T . . ..; . . Style Bete Asbetlo "This gives briefly a number of style note which can; he- relied on ta grnld -one safely in planning the fan ward re bo which this-year has an opportunity te be most be witchlngly feminine aad becom ing." - - . This matter of blouses the Sa lem shopper-may find trying, for snita are net being shown to any appreciable extent in Salem, bat remember that the shopper makes th demand and if yon want that particular garment and enough are askings for It why It win come f of the merchants are ready to supply anything that the buyer demands. If the blonses are not on hand the materials are and often it is much more satisfactory to have them made to fit than tt Is to buy them and the same Is true of suits they are both garments that need considerable of fitting to the personality and indiridnal figure in order to appear at their best. inn GROUPS WAIT ill KjgES By SUE MeNAMARA (AP flfcattarerSerrice Writer) " WASHINGTON. 1 AP) - Ish bel MacDonald, who may come to America . next month with her father, the British premier, will be a marked contrast to the last feminine visitor of international! prominence from overseas Queen Marie of Rumania. The 26-year-old English girl is more Interested in social work than in teas and receptions. Lon don's east end slums, with their greyness and dreariness, interest her more than marble palaces. When compelled to give un her beloved little home in a Scotch village for her father's official London residence, she found con solation In the tact that she would be near the government and pub- nc neaitn administration, where she could do more for the noor. At the White House she will slip quietly Into the place which wueen uane a lew years are biased with Jewels and sweat re, gai trains ever mirror-like floors when she diner with the Coolide- es. , Queen Marie made columns of news with her . diamonds and pearl and, her halt dozen tor coats. She worevestlr orchids. A. garden surround laa her "wee house 'mong Jhe heather" in the Scotch village of Lossiemouth sun- m a. as . pues ine r lower wants of Isabel MacDonald. She calls her place "Wendy henser for Sir James uarne s character in "Peter Pan." She spends hoara there planning and dreaming for the betterment os juonaon s poor. "Baby Blue" Stffi. Good as Color;; Interesting V Styles Seen ( , Babies are -Intriguing little con undrums which tt seems never get. quite solved tef ore they have grown np and then it is hopeless to try farther. Even their clothes are intriguing. Salem has some in teresting babyshopf and depart ments. Some of the clothe In them make- one wish for "money land a babies' home so that all the various pretty things . could b e tried on and "used. There is the matter ot color. The very freshness of a baby's skin has - made pink a popular ahade, and then "baby bine" came In ro gue and now there Is a rich shade of cream yellow which would be adorable on some ot the individ ual little scamps who are more than pink and white, in their col oring. There are some new blankets in the softest, homespun, imported materials which are really not so expensive and which are beautiful. Then there are the regulation coat and bonnet effect that does not seem to change much In style. Some new effects are to be formed in sWeaters with tiny berets to match which are cunning. Babies' dresses really show little change of styles. Of course they have changed from the long to the short dress for the , wee baby, and there is not .the over whelming number of petticoats, but the styles by and large are not so different. 6L Foreheads are Very Good For "That Spot' Too often there are places in a room that just won't respond to the decorative note being- used. This bit of a table and wall piece is a good way to mold such places into the room tone.' P Ears and hair have nothinj; to do with the fall hats. Foreheads And noses set the profile line. New Styles in Hats Pushes Back Top Piece and Exp oses Brow to Full View of Public BY OLIVE DOAK Once upon a time father pushed the frowzy hair from daughter's forehead and drape dit behind her ears with the admonition of "My dear, when you have such a lovely fore head why not show it instead of hiding it under such a jum ble of "har?" And she hastened to puU her hair down to the proper line over her eyes and to cover the indecent exposure of her ears and wondered how in the world anyone could think of looking well with hair pulled back. But now instead or lather it isQiim fTio steward nf faafitnna who i ' 1 " v" Vw .v I whicti are firmly and snugly about the brow be it lovely, smooth and high, or low and trying, a hat that has no brim and which forms a smooth band striking some place about ttiA middle of the forehead with never a vestige of hair to relieve the sudden exposure. All the trimming of these new hats is either in the back or on the sides, and it is generally ot the same material which is cut in an uneven line so that the side of the hat ends in folds, points or simnl a semi-circle. Many ot them are cut so long in the back and on the sides that they havn been elven the name oi 'baby-bonnets." Close Fitting Hat Liked The back of the hat must be close fitting because of the coat collars which are higa ana saawi. like this winter. But this severe hat la'encount erlng what every other style has AneAnnterMl here of late years. The women are not taking It be cause they feel that u is tne "mart" moda and therefore they will not be well dressed without tt even though they do have icom an noses or receeding ones. No, the woman ot today Is too intelligent to risn ner iooks wueu if f. nnudhla te look well in some t ,. tvio and for this reason there are several styles in hats , . pp not so extreme. Small brims, some turned down and some turned up, and all with only slight trimming, are being worn even as the severe hat Is worn. Ml un : DEFEfiDS ITHUMiS NEW YORK, Sept. 1 f - (AP) One of the few women who saw service in the American navy dur ing the World war today came back from Europe intending to redeem the pledges she made to the recruits she brought into the service more than a dozen years ' ago. She is Miss Julia W. Wheelock, of Newark, If. J., who entered the American Legion to become its" first woman department command er and who returned from Rome . to ask the Legion to help obtain federal assistance for Italian-born soldiers of the World war re-. cruits for America and now In Italy on various stages ot invalidism. Suntans are Passe Autumn Shades . . . Rich browns and blacks . . Autumn Styles . . . Feminine shirs, tiers, and frills are not for gypsy skins and "Tomboy-straight" hair. The most marvelous new processes soften and whiten tender skins without harm ... in such a short time! Contouration treatments remove wrinkles and lines. Then, too, hair may be short, longer or crowning glory, but always well-dressed. Specialists in their line will help you to seect your style at fJilleff's Dcaisty 01 Expert Permanent Waving (3 machines) OVER MILLER'S STORE GLOVES ME SEEEt "My Dear, do you have your gloves?" "Mercy, no; It has been so long since gloves have been a necessity that Must can't remember to wear them. But I bought them, Wait X wUl show yon." And here they came. Lovely toft.-rather short enffed ones with s Hands Gloved . r -.. . . V i V t Thk fashion this season de mands a different style for each .occasion. . a bit ot color to tone up the brown which matched shoes and the bag. and the hat too, zor mat matter; . iAnM on, in White kid to CO .ttii xYttninr ensemble: and natty sport gloves to ie used for driving and riding yes, she had enough, hut the great trouble was aa the said; Tto relnember to put them on. after so many months of freedom ' from the demand tor I TTnvirvr ' tf von wish to be well dressed this year yon are going ' to have to "remember not only to hare them hat to have them "on ion stylist aaywwear your gloves, morning, night and soon." ppw awd pzr:ciL sets School Days are coming ... writing days . . . themes to write, notes to take . . . Lifetime Guaranteed Gold Bond Pens and Pencils are made for just such work. The "Treasure" Set sketched above is typical. Bar rels of both pen and pencil are of non-breakable -Stonite in the rich new iridescent pearl and jet black effect. 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BUSTER BROWN . assures you of the Best always and moder ; ately priced means the Best at the Least Cost. - " - Commence School Right .i . With Butter Browns ; flew the Best Quality Footwear for Men, Women and Children at the Least Possible Cost ..u!i ! 1 ' Hi .a - 'a it-
