The OttEGOIf STATESMAN, Salen, Oregon, Thursday Morning; September 19, 1929
page TWirrurN
to
UFOENHEMIS
DRESS DECREE
Flounces and Ruffles are
Prescribed for Night;
Fashions Change
Evaalng dresses, let's see; there
most e the antveu hemline, aboat
lour Ucbes below the , knees In
front and then "dripping" to ft
point nt the heels and dripping Is
what these hemlines do tor they
are mostly one tier after another
ot raffles or flares, that sUde
away, from the front hemline to
length In the extreme back. . Then
there Is much mora often thaa not
the saggestloa of a wstteline aad
a high one at that. Now, don't
think ot a belt to identify the
waist line never that bat a bit
of fitting in to the form by means
ot fanny little swirls, or drapes on
Golor Still Important Item;
Brown Leads, Blue, Blade
in Next to Favorite
Gome
Silk Not as Popular as Before; Brocades and
Lovely Crepes Popular for Afternoon Says
Expert From New York City
42 ' 1
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Mary Walls, of New York City
has some Interesting things to say
of materials and styles. By lavestl
gatlon It has been fonnd that Sa
lem stores are able to assist a buy
er in carrying oat any idea Mis
Walling may hare started and so
she Is qsoted here.
fa part she says "As a guide to
efficient shopping for the present
season It Is good to know a few
facta such as the following:
"First what are. the favorite
fabrics for fall? In silks there Is
not so much that is rery new just
now. For afternoons we are using
brocades and lorely crepes, and
strange to say, there is always a
liberal showing of thin materials
because, In deference to half-warm
days when one mast wear the fall
coat, these light frocks are ex
tremely comfortable. n
One will make no mistake with
relTet. for it always occupies a
prominent position In autumn
collections. But this year the vel
vet' costumes are beautifully
adorned and softened by chiffons
and embroideries. In choosing your
gown, then, see that it has the
lingerie touch at neck and sleeves,
and the soft, feminine draping
that Is so alluring.
Kasha Twills Softened
Even the kasha twills this sea
son are softened by lingerie puffs
or cuffs and collars of chiffon,
mousselaine or embroidery. One
import in navy kasha a rery ln
dirldnal model has its entire bo
dice embroidered fn citron-colored
silk, with deft touches of llngerteH
at the neckline and sleere.
"Another, of navy autumn
weight crepe, embroidered In sfl
Ter thread and lemon-yellow wool,
orts Eease
the side or tucksJust 'most
any way to get the result of a bit
of a waistline. Many of these
gowns are fitted about the hips
in fact nmst of them are. Then
soma place between -the waist line
and the knees, and It Is not parti
cular where flounces, or ruffles,
or flares, or gondeta, begin creat
ing a sort of -eaaeadinr' effect.
Price Go Soaring r
.These yards of materials make
the price of an evening dre3 go
soaring. Flowers, save real ones.
do not appear so much, but bows
are In profusion, mostly on the
side.- ;
Judging from the style you will
realize-that materials are soft
"which as a rule create evening
dresses these days. Chiffon vel
vets, chiffons, soft satins, and bro
caded material in lame (pro
nounced lama) -r any of Its fam
ily, e
Another thing to note Is that
the evening gown while low is not
extreme, and this with the snug
waist line . gives a much more
graceful effect.
LOllEWSlBIB
Sp
(3)
Une feminine grace that is
marked in its appeal is that of
ease in nfttion. Sports suits
such as the above emphasize
this.
has a deep camisole and puffed
sleevelets ot white mousselaine.
Both frocks are quite dressy and
distinctive, yet, hare a tailored
note which makes them doubly
praetieaL I should consider them
ideal for bridge, an afternoon
wedding, or any dressy daytime
occasion.
. "In the photograph we find Il
lustrated two very handsome an
tttmn costumes.. The short fur
Jacket ensemble Is a Jenny model
in black far doth; the afternoon
gown is of lustrous chiffon velvet
designed by Lanvin.
Jenny Model Odd One
"An odd feature of the Jenny
model s the use of black fur cloth,
white moire, skunk banding and
ermine four differta fabrics to
fashion the one suit. But aren't
they charming together? ,A Patou
hat ot silky braid that suggests the
markings of the fur is shown with
this costume, which would also
be suitable for the afternoon wed
ding, the matinee or for dining
and afterward passing on to the
theatre.
"Another Import featuring the
short fur Jacket has a hip-length
coat of gray coney and a grey
gown of autumn-weight crepe.
"The velvet gown illustrated is
In the new shade of clove TSrewn;
a color having soft . purplish;
pinky-brown lights. It is molded
slightly to the flgnre, with a
lengthened back line and a from
gathered in the new crushed ef
fect. The chiffon and embroidered
edging are in a delicious shade of ,
mauve pink that blends back into i
the clove color, yet adds lightness j
and color -to the costume. The hat
is a russet velvet turban by Re
boux. - "For eevnlng there will be the
IoTely embroideries, combined
with tulles, chiffons, satins and
velvets again. A great deal of tulle
and taffeta .and some white satin
will be shown for the debutante.
nOe gown in particular cornea, to
mind as I write. It is a filmy crea
tion ml white tulle with bouffant
skirt arranged in points that touch
the floor and a bodice of silver
sequins and silver thread embroid
ered on white tulle. Like .a fairy
dress it is and perfect for its
purpose.
White For Debutante
"White, la, of course, usually
preferred by the debutante, bat
there Is no longer any tradition
in this respect; The wearer may
have her own sweet way about
eolor. And this is as it should be,
for every debutante has a long-
cherished dream ot Just how she
wants to look for the great event.
Bads and Brides are alike on this
point, and both should be allowed
to dream themselves right Into the
costumes they want to wear.
"In the present mode there is a
strong tendency toward princess
form-fitted lines which, because of
the shortness ot skirts, seem most
desirable. The princess effect, ac
cording to the psychology of
length, gives an unbroken line
from shoulder to hem and so adds
grace and charm to the figure,
This new molded silhouette will be
found in all departments of dress
Iflcorsetine. in under-garments.
gowns, coats, sultg and even in fur
garments of the pliable type. ,
"At this time or the year the
trend. In blouses jbr toward lovely
metal fabric which Imply luxury
aid the rich, burnished effects ot
autumn. To the dressy suit only,
ot course, ahoald ;b given the
metallic blouse. For tweed and
cloth anlt a crepe blouse or Jer
sey ot the semi-sports type, serves
to the best purpose. And the new
Jerseys coace in exoaltte, colorful
weaves, T . . ..; . .
Style Bete Asbetlo
"This gives briefly a number of
style note which can; he- relied on
ta grnld -one safely in planning
the fan ward re bo which this-year
has an opportunity te be most be
witchlngly feminine aad becom
ing." - - .
This matter of blouses the Sa
lem shopper-may find trying, for
snita are net being shown to any
appreciable extent in Salem, bat
remember that the shopper makes
th demand and if yon want that
particular garment and enough
are askings for It why It win
come f of the merchants are ready
to supply anything that the buyer
demands. If the blonses are not on
hand the materials are and often
it is much more satisfactory to
have them made to fit than tt Is to
buy them and the same Is true
of suits they are both garments
that need considerable of fitting to
the personality and indiridnal
figure in order to appear at their
best.
inn
GROUPS WAIT ill
KjgES
By SUE MeNAMARA
(AP flfcattarerSerrice Writer) "
WASHINGTON. 1 AP) - Ish
bel MacDonald, who may come to
America . next month with her
father, the British premier, will
be a marked contrast to the last
feminine visitor of international!
prominence from overseas Queen
Marie of Rumania.
The 26-year-old English girl is
more Interested in social work
than in teas and receptions. Lon
don's east end slums, with their
greyness and dreariness, interest
her more than marble palaces.
When compelled to give un her
beloved little home in a Scotch
village for her father's official
London residence, she found con
solation In the tact that she would
be near the government and pub-
nc neaitn administration, where
she could do more for the noor.
At the White House she will
slip quietly Into the place which
wueen uane a lew years are
biased with Jewels and sweat re,
gai trains ever mirror-like floors
when she diner with the Coolide-
es. , Queen Marie made columns
of news with her . diamonds and
pearl and, her halt dozen tor
coats. She worevestlr orchids.
A. garden surround laa her "wee
house 'mong Jhe heather" in the
Scotch village of Lossiemouth sun-
m a. as .
pues ine r lower wants of Isabel
MacDonald. She calls her place
"Wendy henser for Sir James
uarne s character in "Peter Pan."
She spends hoara there planning
and dreaming for the betterment
os juonaon s poor.
"Baby Blue" Stffi. Good as
Color;; Interesting
V Styles Seen (
, Babies are -Intriguing little con
undrums which tt seems never
get. quite solved tef ore they have
grown np and then it is hopeless
to try farther. Even their clothes
are intriguing. Salem has some in
teresting babyshopf and depart
ments. Some of the clothe In
them make- one wish for "money
land a babies' home so that all the
various pretty things . could b e
tried on and "used.
There is the matter ot color.
The very freshness of a baby's skin
has - made pink a popular ahade,
and then "baby bine" came In ro
gue and now there Is a rich shade
of cream yellow which would be
adorable on some ot the individ
ual little scamps who are more
than pink and white, in their col
oring. There are some new blankets in
the softest, homespun, imported
materials which are really not so
expensive and which are beautiful.
Then there are the regulation coat
and bonnet effect that does not
seem to change much In style.
Some new effects are to be formed
in sWeaters with tiny berets to
match which are cunning.
Babies' dresses really show
little change of styles. Of course
they have changed from the long
to the short dress for the , wee
baby, and there is not .the over
whelming number of petticoats,
but the styles by and large are
not so different.
6L
Foreheads are Very Good
For "That Spot'
Too often there are places in a
room that just won't respond
to the decorative note being-
used. This bit of a table and
wall piece is a good way to
mold such places into the
room tone.'
P
Ears and hair have nothinj; to do with the fall hats. Foreheads And noses set the profile line.
New Styles in Hats Pushes
Back Top Piece and Exp oses
Brow to Full View of Public
BY OLIVE DOAK
Once upon a time father pushed the frowzy hair from
daughter's forehead and drape dit behind her ears with the
admonition of "My dear, when you have such a lovely fore
head why not show it instead of hiding it under such a jum
ble of "har?" And she hastened to puU her hair down to the
proper line over her eyes and to cover the indecent exposure
of her ears and wondered how in the world anyone could
think of looking well with hair pulled back.
But now instead or lather it isQiim
fTio steward nf faafitnna who i ' 1 "
v" Vw .v I whicti are
firmly and snugly about the brow
be it lovely, smooth and high, or
low and trying, a hat that has no
brim and which forms a smooth
band striking some place about
ttiA middle of the forehead with
never a vestige of hair to relieve
the sudden exposure.
All the trimming of these new
hats is either in the back or on
the sides, and it is generally ot
the same material which is cut in
an uneven line so that the side
of the hat ends in folds, points
or simnl a semi-circle. Many
ot them are cut so long in the
back and on the sides that they
havn been elven the name oi
'baby-bonnets."
Close Fitting Hat Liked
The back of the hat must be
close fitting because of the coat
collars which are higa ana saawi.
like this winter.
But this severe hat la'encount
erlng what every other style has
AneAnnterMl here of late years.
The women are not taking It be
cause they feel that u is tne
"mart" moda and therefore they
will not be well dressed without
tt even though they do have icom
an noses or receeding ones.
No, the woman ot today Is too
intelligent to risn ner iooks wueu
if f. nnudhla te look well in some
t ,. tvio and for this reason
there are several styles in hats
, . pp
not so extreme. Small
brims, some turned down and
some turned up, and all with only
slight trimming, are being worn
even as the severe hat Is worn.
Ml un :
DEFEfiDS ITHUMiS
NEW YORK, Sept. 1 f - (AP)
One of the few women who saw
service in the American navy dur
ing the World war today came
back from Europe intending to
redeem the pledges she made to
the recruits she brought into the
service more than a dozen years '
ago.
She is Miss Julia W. Wheelock,
of Newark, If. J., who entered the
American Legion to become its"
first woman department command
er and who returned from Rome .
to ask the Legion to help obtain
federal assistance for Italian-born
soldiers of the World war re-.
cruits for America and now In
Italy on various stages ot invalidism.
Suntans are Passe
Autumn Shades . . . Rich browns and blacks . .
Autumn Styles . . . Feminine shirs, tiers, and frills
are not for gypsy skins and "Tomboy-straight"
hair.
The most marvelous new processes soften and
whiten tender skins without harm ... in such a
short time!
Contouration treatments remove wrinkles and
lines.
Then, too, hair may be short, longer or crowning
glory, but always well-dressed. Specialists in their
line will help you to seect your style at
fJilleff's Dcaisty 01
Expert Permanent Waving (3 machines)
OVER MILLER'S STORE
GLOVES ME SEEEt
"My Dear, do you have your
gloves?"
"Mercy, no; It has been so long
since gloves have been a necessity
that Must can't remember to wear
them. But I bought them, Wait X
wUl show yon."
And here they came. Lovely
toft.-rather short enffed ones with
s
Hands Gloved .
r
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V
i
V t
Thk fashion this season de
mands a different style for
each .occasion. .
a bit ot color to tone up the brown
which matched shoes and the bag.
and the hat too, zor mat matter;
. iAnM on, in White kid to CO
.ttii xYttninr ensemble: and
natty sport gloves to ie used for
driving and riding yes, she had
enough, hut the great trouble was
aa the said; Tto relnember to put
them on. after so many months of
freedom ' from the demand tor
I TTnvirvr ' tf von wish to be well
dressed this year yon are going
' to have to "remember not only to
hare them hat to have them "on
ion stylist aaywwear your
gloves, morning, night and soon."
ppw awd pzr:ciL sets
School Days are coming ... writing days . . . themes
to write, notes to take . . . Lifetime Guaranteed Gold
Bond Pens and Pencils are made for just such work.
The "Treasure" Set sketched above is typical. Bar
rels of both pen and pencil are of non-breakable
-Stonite in the rich new iridescent pearl and jet black
effect. Pen has solid 14-k gold point, tipped with
hard iridium; 18-k gold filled pocket clip, bands and
filling lever; Pencil is the newest propelling, repel
ling and expelling type always ready to write. It's
the equal of any $13.50 set in both beauty and life
time writing quality.
Weed $"7.35
the Set
Yost can buy any lifetime Gold Bosd
:. Fen or PeneO Separately -
Pens 25 to $5.65
Pencils $1.15 to $2.43
;.r:miTG0MimYiT7AM) 6 ca
275 N. liberty EL Phone 1425 - Salem, Oregon
at
Buster Brown Shoe Store
College Brogues for Girls
Genuine Scotch Grain
Leather Styled over the
Campus Last. Attractive
ly Priced to
$7,85
For New and Young Men the new Straight $8.00
will appeal imported Grain Leathers in College
and Staple Styles, Styles that generally sell for
$12.50. Buster Brown Price
VUk to see the Buster Brown Straight 58.00.
$&00
For
Siloes of
Quality Wil
Serve Wei . .
BUSTER BROWN .
assures you of the Best always and moder ;
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Cost. - " -
Commence School Right .i .
With Butter Browns ;
flew
the Best Quality Footwear for Men, Women and Children at the Least Possible Cost
..u!i
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