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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 13, 1925)
THE OREGON STATESMAN, SALEM, OREGON SUNDAY MORNING. DECEMBER 13, 1925 3 TV 1 1 t I ElSPgs-Sfli6- Nbf el Krcsvrin; Shoes . f ; ; jrrrvi'Ncw.York's Advance .Fdotiuear .FasRion- Shbiu rrf... r.,; -. -.y, ?yfe-tisrv ; v -,-r ; g . te'y -.ri " sari -. :.-,..'w.-..Hii" p . . 1 r V t r .. fr r ii ..:-..::... f vv -' '" '""' i's'tf I .i ' a r ; . .i . - 'vtSr -, J - ' " ' MISS ALICE BRADY N ' T . . S ' : Fifth" Avenue Fashion ; ; . .. of I Fifth Avenue, New "York, durir.g the last week,i;wa the fcscene of, new tort of footwear fashion display. . Hert f artidst the-quiet elegance of t spacious salon located where - 46th : "Street crosses Fifth Avenuev with" the Countess de Ver oelles. Miss Julia Hojt, and Miss. Alice Brady as patronessesthe inner etrcle of New York's most "exclusive footwear designers hare ; held , sin, exhibit of their leading shoe models for. autumn and winter. IMever be fort has nythin'a.L'ke -this been attempted. First,, because there it t keen rivalry amongst the shoe creators and their attitude is compet itive rafter than cooperative. But for the past few seasons women hare been the victims of such changing fads and .fancies ' that one - scarcely knew whether she could waken in the morn ing and feel well shod m yesterday's shoes. This Vrangement necessitated the shops investing in -shoes of hazard ous design and fabric. To-day the well dressed woman averages one new pair of shoes each month in order to keep abreast of the mode. Since gowns have . reverted to a GOVERNOR PIERCE TALKS .TO CITY BUSINESS MEN (Continued from page 1.) ducive to good prison discipline than" work for every man noth ing more demoralizing than idle ness'in such an institution. "Three years' ago when I be came your governor I found this institution housing 403 convicts. The flax industry was only par tially established and less than one-third of the . inmates were regularly employed. Yon will re call .that I asked of the . legisla ture fin 1923 the'- same appropria tion for the maintenance of the penitentiary that the former governor-had used, $420,000. . but with-! the proviso that of ' this amount I might use $100,000 in the establishment of industries. ' "By rigid economy I was en abled; to maintain the institution during the next blennium on the balance, $320.000; and even turn- k ed back a-small portion Into the ' treasury unused..; ' ; Z 1 "With, the development of in dustries it is" mt belief that the i prison can be made entirely self- v I supporting. The per capita cost ': J )r month when I took it over $ was $46. Under my management I . f this was reduced to $26 per capita I the last month being a trifle f t river $28. On a basis of 450 jrt; f t mates . this means a saving : of nearly $3,000 per month. - L jf "With the $100,000 was con 4 instructed the hydro-electric plant horsepower from the small stream that tor: years ' had run" .'idly through the grounds. , All the con struction work was performed by prison labor. ,Thls plant is per manently constructed of steel and concrete. ;It supplies all the light ing tor the prison and- furnishes power for the industrial plant at an annual saving of over.$S,000. "A lew months after I had taken office occurred the disastrous fire which wiped out the entire flax plant. These buildings have all been reconstmcted, with v steel roofsi and a complete line of Xlax worklng machinery Y Installed. . I A large warehouse of concrete, brick and steel 70xI$l(U feeiljhas been erected entirely by prison; labor. Such a buildinr would ordinarily cost $63,000. The cost to the state waa for" the. tniterlal only. about $25,003: Z'Z'Z-ZZ ZZ "Our tanks fof ret tlngtbe flax are the largest in the world, all built ,! by our own labor. - Our escntching machine, 28 wheels, is the largest in the world and has a caracity.of 1400 pounds of long threshing machines for removing Fete Establishes the Leather, Kidsllti Shoes the Important smart simplicity. sloes must do like wise i nd this group qf foremost shoe designer are submitting their newest shoe .creations for the approval of the Ney) York wornan. . &eograph?fcally spcak'in'g, Fjfih Avenue is the center of all that is smart and chic. Starting at (;ptn, street, tne uptown snopping exhibitor, here and there turning a corneF but always remaining ; in the shadow of Fifth Avenue, until the last shop is. passed at 35th Street ; while exactly mid-way at 46th Street is the imposing Salon which housed the creations ef ; each-craftsman. - The list yields the names of FJiza beth Beers, Best & Co., Camtneyer, J. & T. - Cous-inS. Delman, Franklin Simon & ' Co-" Nincy Hasgcrty, Hanan, Ben Lewis, I. Miller, Pedc modc, Saks Fifth Avenuehoecraft, Sommers. and Walk-Over. The most conspicuous 1 feature of the display was that kid leather, was, universally Used as the "Tnedium of expression. Women have' come to realize that the soft gIcamirigteJttureT3l' Tclcfskin im parts to the foot the same flattering grace and , elegance that a kid glove gives to the hand. An then too, kid. leather is the .only material that re produces the rich shades of golden the flaxseed; expensive machinery has been installed for cleaning the seed. Large permanent sheds for flax storage, with graveled roads built so that they are accessible In all weathers In fact we now: have a real flax-working plant and every able-bodied man can be kept at work. "Such a plant built , by any of you gentlemen with ; tree, labor would be a most creditable achievement. May I not take a pardonable pride la the present success j$ onr plant built under roost trying circumstance, not with frfee,, happy, Z eon ten ted . laborers well ( paidYbut; built r byi convicts; many of whom were nnstilled and wholly iaekperleneed;" . jj'1 Y- "That yon may' more" fully I OUR GREAT I T J y t' T T it t f A is a wonderful success from the start and is to be continued as long as this season's footwear lasts. Plenty of shoes for. evexy- 41 body. Better come X wear as uie aiicrnuuiu arc iuurc vuugcaicu ping days till Xmas; V V y y y if not the 'Pattern for. -Fall Footwear Preponderance Feature, with Quite Simple Lines. brown which lead for' autumn and winter. As. for the" Mack "Shoe, both the dull and glace finish share in popularity, and judging from the pro nounced response" in purchasing, women are finding the. satisfaction and style in the new smart black kid shoes. that has been wanting tor so long jn To adequately describe the dozens of shoes on display would take a volume at least, but each design em bodies these three style principles kidskin, the medium; brown or black, the color; simplicity of line and trimming.' the "effect. If" you ""can imagine fitting " to your " own foot a piece of this soft silky leather just, as you would cut and fit a dress, then you mayhave'j a"" perfect picture of alt that is smart and fashionable in. foqt wear, '.The natural lines, of the ,foot are accentuated the " toe , is neither pointed nor rounded but. just a natural modification and, the, two inch heel lends the necessary Support and gra'ce to a high curving: archlr Jt is in the trimming that one finds individual expression. Th otT&re effect .is per haps the newest on the golden, brown kid shoe, snowing four narrow, bands of overlapping kid. shading from light to dark. This banding usually runs, realize some of the difficulties one encounters in conducting such ' a large institution, compare our plant with your own, or some other yon know. Given 500 labor ers, all ages and condition of health, some few skilled, most of them not, all to be housed, fecU clothed, doctored, and kept under surveillance. , Your plant burned to. the ground, and In the short space of two years to have it re built better than ever and success fully working, and all done with prison labor. Is not such an achievement worthy of some com mendation? v ''(' ?'Tbe k' unfortunate break in August brought many pages of bit ter newspaper criticism. Bnt did you read anything about our in . e- ZD 4 -f ' Forced to acate early tomorrow morning and select your foot- 'Y lid 41 State St-i SALEM 114 N. Liberty St. The Home of Walk-Overs and Cantilevers ' ' . " - M1SSJUUAHOVT across the instep and back toward the heel a? it may. be used as a tittle wing arrangement on the outc side of each shoe. A floral motif appU qued . on Joe., and quarter in a,( con trasting shade Of kid is decidedfy.jKw'. and striking. Colored lizard and snake skin, particularly fn reds and greens." make an interesting heel and piping on, the . smart black kid' pump. With the return otjhe. plain kid pump, cut steel buckle of every size atwl dtscrip tion.aretemptingly offered so that one may, dress .. the shoes up for more , formal wear.- , ' I"' Each afternoon a format promenade of the models was held," followed by a prornenade.. on Fifth Avenue for the hundred . who were unable to find standing". room within. The models, each selected from a leading Broadway pr63ucii6n, wore frocks designed by Miss Julia. Hoyt. In addition to being a prominent society woman and a Jayoriteof the stage and screen. Miss Hoyf ts Z ah , '- internationally known authority on ; fashions and she is now, devoting, her talents to the creation of a new mode portraying the simple and natural silhouette. Fcr this reason, her - gowns were selected io produce the. rneci ensemble with the footwear durlavrr dustrial successes?. ' pin it be that in our partisan eagerness to find fault, we forgot the old American spirit of fair play? "We purchase the flai from the farmers at prices . varying from $38 per ton to $22 per ton accord ing o length of the fibre and the grade. At present we have on hand stored under sheds, about .3000 tons. The better grade lof this will make-about 1200 tons of long straw, which, in turn, will yield 150 tons of long fibre, worth at present $660 per ton. "From the shorter straw will be manufactured furniture tow used '. in upholstering, worth $80 per ton, and the better grade will manufacture Into spinning . tow worth from $200 to $240 per ton mfmm acriYice 1 1 V T viiijr v tnuic onvp- I!q We hav on hand no-w' ove-r 2,-000 bushejs of flaieseed, .wortb, .$2.50 pf r buafieU -. t -. y ... " "At; f very stage of our growth we have' met almost nnaurtnount aWe , hta les and disheartening tyfrlcullieg. " Hut wo have succeed ed. The plant is built. lts run nlns every day, and ean continue all the year round. Many problems arc' yet'. to be solved but we have faith in the genius of4 America that solutions will be found. One of the present problems is drying the Ilax after the retting process in the tanks. Willamette winters are not con ducive to aridity. 'Ordinarily, flax is spread out in the. fields to dry. This limits us to summer months. We are experimenting on artificial driers. If successful we can ret in the, winter as well as summer, a decided advantage. , "Our prison has other activities that supply work for the Inmates and at the same time help to make, it self-sustaining. AH shoes worn by them are manufactured In the prison, and we hefp to. supply other state Institutions. The state has over 5,000 wards in all and our, plant should be enlarged so that' shoes v for all Institutions cotjld be made with our own labor. ''Our' tailor shop makes all the softs worn by the Inmates. We Jmve our own. laundry, our own bakery. We can hundreds and hundreds of gallons' of. fruits ajid vegetables from our own farm. We have bur own dairy, our own poultry arid over 450 hogs, from which a large part of our meat supply Is obtained. Our farm would be, more successful if we had better land. The prison farm is notdrfously poor soil, much! of the top surface having been re moved yearsago in brick manu facture. Wef . still operate the brick kilns, and have a large sup ply of excellent brick on hand now. The state should own 1000 acres' of garden land on which conld be raised garden supplies for all the state' ihstltutionj?. - "A most interesting experiment baa just been made which shows that from, the-waste by-prodncts of the flax, the chaff, etc., eari be manufactured a very high grade of i linen papeK You gentleman can readily grasp the future pos sibilities of such an additional in dustry. . " ' "Our inmates are paid a ymall wage., which is. placed to their credit and in the case of long timers amounts to a very respect able nest egg when they go out into life again.. It is true here just as it is outside- that such a saving has a very steadying in fluence on the man. Many ask that their small earnings be re- mmea to tneir aenenaeni rami - lies It. is unfortuately true that; v.y " sto' y y . z - - .. V -MaytajFeature -1 Washes faster. : 6 Easily adjusted :2.WshecIeaner. to Jr height. 3 I-rget hoorlf 7 Oothej 'Capacity in the put in out with . the washer running . 1 8 Tub cleans u self. i - 9 All metal' wringer. Self , adjusong. In . . ttant tension . release. .-". 4 Moekk compact washer made, take floor tpace , only .J5 inches 9 Cast alqimnvm -tob-CSB't - warpf roLrsrell, ' pli or coixode.' Reasons for , " World Leadership too often society ta punishing the criminal himself,' ji wittingly al3o punishes far more' the dependent family deprived, of the head niera berj: a I 'o ; ' 'Just" a f word about the oh erilicized parole system. TheOre gon Parole law Is a part of our statutes. It provides in the main that when an offender has served one-half of his sentence, with good conduct credits, he is entitled to a parole. - "That -means he, can serve the last half of Jhis sentence outside under the supervision of the par ole officer, to whom he is expected to report at least . monthly. In practical operation this system ia a success. Over- SO per cent of paroled men make good. Only crimes of a lesser nature are.par olable. Crimes of violence do not come under its provisions. When a judge sentences a man to prison he is fully aware of -the effect on such sentence of the operation of the parole law and his sentence is made accordingly. , - "The parole is ordinarily grant ed when earned. The public is apt to hear of the parole violator but seldom hears of the 80 per rent who make good. In the three years I have been; governor only four full pardons have been grant ed. In each of these cases I be came fully, convinced that the prisoner was innocent. Each case was most thoroughly investigated before my decision was reached. "Our prison Is supplied with a good library .' Inmates are allowed the daily papers. In common with all.' the other state" institutions we have a weekly .picture show. Church services are held on Sun day, both Protestant and Catholic. In summer the inmates are allow ed to play baseball and indulge in other athletic' sports. All this for the purpose of turning him out a better man than when he came in We do not always succeed. Neither, do you on the . outside realize 100 per cent efficiency. And you deal with free men, with men ambitious for success. We deal with men who have lost. "This institution is yours, gen tlemen. ' It will be yours no mat ter who is your governor. I am honestly endeavoring to build It into a real workshop, where not valuable merchandise may be manufactured, bnt where we may salvage that other by-product of inestimable worth a human soul transforming him ino a useful member of society. v'Can you plasee any estimate on what the redemption or even one - such soul is worth? How much say you If that one was your boy?" 1 rtia thinao ano;at stand are the hardest to write. m I ! 1- v Si VftSS5ft--;-JS.Svwyuvj-Jfc it it " can be or taken Wendell Phillips was traveling through Qhfo o6de Vhen4 he fell hn with' a car tuft of ministers ie turning from a'conventloav OneVt the ministers. a"soirtherner from" Kentucky, was naturally not very cordial ' to ', the opinions of . the great abolitionist .and set out to embarrass Phillips. So," before the group of ministers, he said: "You are Wendell Phuiips are you not? Z ': 'Z ' Z'-Z - f Yes, answered the great abo litionisC . - - V '.""And you are trying to free the niggers, aren't you?" "Yesslr, I am' 1 . "Well, why. do. you preach your doctrines up here? Why don't you go over Into Kentucky?" "Excuse me, are you a preach er?" ;T " - "IamTsIr." . . "Are you trying, to save souls from hell?" f ; ' v "Yes, sir; that Is my buainf'ss' ' "Well.. -why don't you go there then?": asked Phillips ' . Z A .minister,. like bis father be fore him, had often officiated at marriage ceremonies, but - this was his first experience at "giving i He was in a devout" mood; his away the bride., .f , Y BRING A - fR lEN'D WITH TO V TO Drop in at Sherman i Clay & Co. and hear " recreates Paderewski's exact playing! BatieT, Hofmann,- ' Cortot's exact playing! A"reprodtidr)e"rhcTdiurir ': ; so perfect that the Steinwav itself is proud to , contain it. SHefmanIay 244 NortK High St; m I. T 1 -.'I . 1 ' ! Azid'fxiritr', 16 SI High .x. t, i"r- i. . . .. n 'Zi'iw - ft " 3 mm ZiUm church was mail. fc Ui-a 1 a rjj meager and"Jils family numerous ThTs daughter had, been "especially; expensive. - ' ' 5"Vfbo givetbthfs' woman to ba mafrled'to this man?". "droned! th prea'eber, 'f '' . ' V, ' Z Gently the father f placed 1 thai ftieauer nana oi tue oriae in nuu of the embarrassed groom. ,U VTake her; my boy,"? . e Kclaimed.lhia face," agloWZ'It, 19 more, blessed Mo" give than to re ceive." V:- -Z. M Zi :J-Z i An American .'travelingXrt "En- rope"" engaged a courier' Arriving at ati inn4' In' Austria the man ask ed his servant to enter" his. nanle in accordance, with the polico regula tions of that country. ' Some' Um after, the man' asked Jhe' servant If he had complied with life orders. . "Yesr, sir." was tne reply. . -, . ."How did. you write my name? f asked the mt:ZlZZ4'rZZZry . "Well, sir. can'tTprpnounce U answered the w&rvant, ;Vfint Z A copied it front your portmanteau, Slr.-. . 7, j-;,Why, hny name slsn'tf there. Ifring mtf the book" Tne register: w"as,. brought,, andi instead ptbe"J plain, American, name of .two syl- , iableiCthe following entry waa re vealed: - . . ' vwS -z.y "Monsieur W a r ranted tolld leather." . Y;V'- -ZZ'ZZj'-: - r-1 : 4 B AKER. 7 3 - cars of " catI .leave here in one" .&&fIZ-j.ZZ&Z' 1. SttAR IT & (Go. Telephone 2284 :':rl--Y.-? ine mas ten '. WANT to loan youthis wherl vr tomorrow, next dayi or tsiy time " you wish. Wash with it Your- self. That's All there is to a"MAYTAG deonstrationi' ;Njgati6ft-liUy;r,-V'' 1 1 iiw jwciiciOTi iro persuasion, iro uanon- i stratins: tricks TtteMAimselfZ itself -7- must ' prove its unmatched ..ex-. : cellencB-to-' ypatC , "': Clt 3 -wt uree you to make this. ' , practical frfciase test 'e.Isidei with any other Rasher .thaVyoa believe i tcrbe?sufgood.J No other method. is quite nf i so cnviricing7quite so, determining. It, ZZ., ts I-"this' cbTnrh6nerBe, .'self-sale plaa'f,; "thtft; J&eTwcMd.'-leaderihip of the Oyra-: Z foam is raaintainfcd. li fK3nw-'.; Zsi ; Telephotievyour ae BsditZ" ? and . we will bringf a MAYtTACi1 right -to' i -your home where you niay wash with ' 4 it-alone, . ; :Z: '!-z:ZZ MAYTAG SHOP StY Phone-221Ss vj- Y.. . V." V'S .... - a '
