THE OREGON STATESMAN, SALEM, OREGON
SUNDAY MORNING. DECEMBER 13, 1925
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ElSPgs-Sfli6- Nbf el Krcsvrin; Shoes . f ;
; jrrrvi'Ncw.York's Advance .Fdotiuear .FasRion- Shbiu
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J - ' " ' MISS ALICE BRADY N ' T . . S ' :
Fifth" Avenue Fashion
; ; . .. of
I Fifth Avenue, New "York, durir.g
the last week,i;wa the fcscene of,
new tort of footwear fashion
display. . Hert f artidst the-quiet
elegance of t spacious salon located
where - 46th : "Street crosses Fifth
Avenuev with" the Countess de Ver
oelles. Miss Julia Hojt, and Miss.
Alice Brady as patronessesthe inner
etrcle of New York's most "exclusive
footwear designers hare ; held , sin,
exhibit of their leading shoe models
for. autumn and winter.
IMever be fort has nythin'a.L'ke -this
been attempted. First,, because there
it t keen rivalry amongst the shoe
creators and their attitude is compet
itive rafter than cooperative. But for
the past few seasons women hare been
the victims of such changing fads and
.fancies ' that one - scarcely knew
whether she could waken in the morn
ing and feel well shod m yesterday's
shoes. This Vrangement necessitated
the shops investing in -shoes of hazard
ous design and fabric. To-day the well
dressed woman averages one new pair
of shoes each month in order to keep
abreast of the mode.
Since gowns have . reverted to a
GOVERNOR PIERCE TALKS
.TO CITY BUSINESS MEN
(Continued from page 1.)
ducive to good prison discipline
than" work for every man noth
ing more demoralizing than idle
ness'in such an institution.
"Three years' ago when I be
came your governor I found this
institution housing 403 convicts.
The flax industry was only par
tially established and less than
one-third of the . inmates were
regularly employed. Yon will re
call .that I asked of the . legisla
ture fin 1923 the'- same appropria
tion for the maintenance of the
penitentiary that the former governor-had
used, $420,000. . but
with-! the proviso that of ' this
amount I might use $100,000 in
the establishment of industries. '
"By rigid economy I was en
abled; to maintain the institution
during the next blennium on the
balance, $320.000; and even turn-
k ed back a-small portion Into the
' treasury unused..; ' ; Z 1
"With, the development of in
dustries it is" mt belief that the
i prison can be made entirely self-
v I supporting. The per capita cost
': J )r month when I took it over
$ was $46. Under my management
I . f this was reduced to $26 per capita
I the last month being a trifle
f t river $28. On a basis of 450 jrt;
f t mates . this means a saving : of
nearly $3,000 per month. - L
jf "With the $100,000 was con
4 instructed the hydro-electric plant
horsepower from the small stream
that tor: years ' had run" .'idly
through the grounds. , All the con
struction work was performed by
prison labor. ,Thls plant is per
manently constructed of steel and
concrete. ;It supplies all the light
ing tor the prison and- furnishes
power for the industrial plant at
an annual saving of over.$S,000.
"A lew months after I had taken
office occurred the disastrous fire
which wiped out the entire flax
plant. These buildings have all
been reconstmcted, with v steel
roofsi and a complete line of Xlax
worklng machinery Y Installed. . I A
large warehouse of concrete, brick
and steel 70xI$l(U feeiljhas been
erected entirely by prison; labor.
Such a buildinr would ordinarily
cost $63,000. The cost to the
state waa for" the. tniterlal only.
about $25,003: Z'Z'Z-ZZ ZZ
"Our tanks fof ret tlngtbe flax
are the largest in the world, all
built ,! by our own labor. - Our
escntching machine, 28 wheels, is
the largest in the world and has
a caracity.of 1400 pounds of long
threshing machines for removing
Fete Establishes the Leather,
Kidsllti Shoes the Important
smart simplicity. sloes must do like
wise i nd this group qf foremost shoe
designer are submitting their newest
shoe .creations for the approval of the
Ney) York wornan. . &eograph?fcally
spcak'in'g, Fjfih Avenue is the center
of all that is smart and chic. Starting
at (;ptn, street, tne uptown snopping
exhibitor, here and there turning a
corneF but always remaining ; in the
shadow of Fifth Avenue, until the last
shop is. passed at 35th Street ; while
exactly mid-way at 46th Street is the
imposing Salon which housed the
creations ef ; each-craftsman. -
The list yields the names of FJiza
beth Beers, Best & Co., Camtneyer,
J. & T. - Cous-inS. Delman, Franklin
Simon & ' Co-" Nincy Hasgcrty,
Hanan, Ben Lewis, I. Miller, Pedc
modc, Saks Fifth Avenuehoecraft,
Sommers. and Walk-Over. The most
conspicuous 1 feature of the display
was that kid leather, was, universally
Used as the "Tnedium of expression.
Women have' come to realize that the
soft gIcamirigteJttureT3l' Tclcfskin im
parts to the foot the same flattering
grace and , elegance that a kid glove
gives to the hand. An then too, kid.
leather is the .only material that re
produces the rich shades of golden
the flaxseed; expensive machinery
has been installed for cleaning the
seed. Large permanent sheds for
flax storage, with graveled roads
built so that they are accessible
In all weathers In fact we now:
have a real flax-working plant
and every able-bodied man can be
kept at work.
"Such a plant built , by any of
you gentlemen with ; tree, labor
would be a most creditable
achievement. May I not take a
pardonable pride la the present
success j$ onr plant built under
roost trying circumstance, not with
frfee,, happy, Z eon ten ted . laborers
well ( paidYbut; built r byi convicts;
many of whom were nnstilled and
wholly iaekperleneed;" . jj'1
Y- "That yon may' more" fully
I OUR GREAT I
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A is a wonderful success from the start and is to be continued as
long as this season's footwear lasts. Plenty of shoes for. evexy-
41 body. Better come
X wear as uie aiicrnuuiu arc iuurc vuugcaicu
ping days till Xmas;
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if not the 'Pattern for. -Fall Footwear Preponderance
Feature, with Quite Simple Lines.
brown which lead for' autumn and
winter. As. for the" Mack "Shoe, both
the dull and glace finish share in
popularity, and judging from the pro
nounced response" in purchasing,
women are finding the. satisfaction and
style in the new smart black kid shoes.
that has been wanting tor so long jn
To adequately describe the dozens
of shoes on display would take a
volume at least, but each design em
bodies these three style principles
kidskin, the medium; brown or black,
the color; simplicity of line and
trimming.' the "effect. If" you ""can
imagine fitting " to your " own foot
a piece of this soft silky leather just,
as you would cut and fit a dress, then
you mayhave'j a"" perfect picture of alt
that is smart and fashionable in. foqt
wear, '.The natural lines, of the ,foot
are accentuated the " toe , is neither
pointed nor rounded but. just a natural
modification and, the, two inch heel
lends the necessary Support and gra'ce
to a high curving: archlr Jt is in the
trimming that one finds individual
expression. Th otT&re effect .is per
haps the newest on the golden, brown
kid shoe, snowing four narrow, bands
of overlapping kid. shading from light
to dark. This banding usually runs,
realize some of the difficulties one
encounters in conducting such ' a
large institution, compare our
plant with your own, or some
other yon know. Given 500 labor
ers, all ages and condition of
health, some few skilled, most of
them not, all to be housed, fecU
clothed, doctored, and kept under
surveillance. , Your plant burned
to. the ground, and In the short
space of two years to have it re
built better than ever and success
fully working, and all done with
prison labor. Is not such an
achievement worthy of some com
mendation? v ''('
?'Tbe k' unfortunate break in
August brought many pages of bit
ter newspaper criticism. Bnt did
you read anything about our in
. e-
ZD
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Forced to acate
early tomorrow morning and select your foot- 'Y
lid
41 State St-i SALEM 114 N. Liberty St.
The Home of Walk-Overs and Cantilevers
' ' . " -
M1SSJUUAHOVT
across the instep and back toward
the heel a? it may. be used as a tittle
wing arrangement on the outc side
of each shoe. A floral motif appU
qued . on Joe., and quarter in a,( con
trasting shade Of kid is decidedfy.jKw'.
and striking. Colored lizard and snake
skin, particularly fn reds and greens."
make an interesting heel and piping
on, the . smart black kid' pump. With
the return otjhe. plain kid pump, cut
steel buckle of every size atwl dtscrip
tion.aretemptingly offered so that one
may, dress .. the shoes up for more ,
formal wear.- , '
I"' Each afternoon a format promenade
of the models was held," followed by a
prornenade.. on Fifth Avenue for the
hundred . who were unable to find
standing". room within. The models,
each selected from a leading Broadway
pr63ucii6n, wore frocks designed by
Miss Julia. Hoyt. In addition to being
a prominent society woman and a
Jayoriteof the stage and screen. Miss
Hoyf ts Z ah , '- internationally known
authority on ; fashions and she is now,
devoting, her talents to the creation
of a new mode portraying the simple
and natural silhouette. Fcr this reason,
her - gowns were selected io produce
the. rneci ensemble with the footwear
durlavrr
dustrial successes?. ' pin it be that
in our partisan eagerness to find
fault, we forgot the old American
spirit of fair play?
"We purchase the flai from the
farmers at prices . varying from
$38 per ton to $22 per ton accord
ing o length of the fibre and the
grade. At present we have on
hand stored under sheds, about
.3000 tons. The better grade lof
this will make-about 1200 tons
of long straw, which, in turn, will
yield 150 tons of long fibre, worth
at present $660 per ton.
"From the shorter straw will
be manufactured furniture tow
used '. in upholstering, worth $80
per ton, and the better grade will
manufacture Into spinning . tow
worth from $200 to $240 per ton
mfmm
acriYice
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We hav on hand no-w' ove-r 2,-000
bushejs of flaieseed, .wortb, .$2.50
pf r buafieU -.
t -. y ...
" "At; f very stage of our growth
we have' met almost nnaurtnount
aWe , hta les and disheartening
tyfrlcullieg. " Hut wo have succeed
ed. The plant is built. lts run
nlns every day, and ean continue
all the year round.
Many problems arc' yet'. to be
solved but we have faith in the
genius of4 America that solutions
will be found. One of the present
problems is drying the Ilax after
the retting process in the tanks.
Willamette winters are not con
ducive to aridity. 'Ordinarily, flax
is spread out in the. fields to dry.
This limits us to summer months.
We are experimenting on artificial
driers. If successful we can ret
in the, winter as well as summer,
a decided advantage. ,
"Our prison has other activities
that supply work for the Inmates
and at the same time help to make,
it self-sustaining. AH shoes worn
by them are manufactured In the
prison, and we hefp to. supply
other state Institutions. The state
has over 5,000 wards in all and
our, plant should be enlarged so
that' shoes v for all Institutions
cotjld be made with our own labor.
''Our' tailor shop makes all the
softs worn by the Inmates. We
Jmve our own. laundry, our own
bakery. We can hundreds and
hundreds of gallons' of. fruits ajid
vegetables from our own farm. We
have bur own dairy, our own
poultry arid over 450 hogs, from
which a large part of our meat
supply Is obtained. Our farm
would be, more successful if we
had better land. The prison farm
is notdrfously poor soil, much! of
the top surface having been re
moved yearsago in brick manu
facture. Wef . still operate the
brick kilns, and have a large sup
ply of excellent brick on hand
now. The state should own 1000
acres' of garden land on which
conld be raised garden supplies
for all the state' ihstltutionj?. -
"A most interesting experiment
baa just been made which shows
that from, the-waste by-prodncts
of the flax, the chaff, etc., eari be
manufactured a very high grade
of i linen papeK You gentleman
can readily grasp the future pos
sibilities of such an additional in
dustry. . " '
"Our inmates are paid a ymall
wage., which is. placed to their
credit and in the case of long
timers amounts to a very respect
able nest egg when they go out
into life again.. It is true here
just as it is outside- that such
a saving has a very steadying in
fluence on the man. Many ask
that their small earnings be re-
mmea to tneir aenenaeni rami -
lies It. is unfortuately true that;
v.y
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V -MaytajFeature
-1 Washes faster. : 6 Easily adjusted
:2.WshecIeaner. to Jr height.
3 I-rget hoorlf 7 Oothej
'Capacity in the
put in
out with . the
washer running .
1
8 Tub cleans u
self. i -
9 All metal'
wringer. Self
, adjusong. In
. . ttant tension .
release. .-".
4 Moekk compact
washer made,
take floor tpace
, only .J5 inches
9 Cast alqimnvm
-tob-CSB't
- warpf roLrsrell,
' pli or coixode.'
Reasons for , "
World Leadership
too often society ta punishing the
criminal himself,' ji wittingly al3o
punishes far more' the dependent
family deprived, of the head niera
berj: a I 'o ;
' 'Just" a f word about the oh
erilicized parole system. TheOre
gon Parole law Is a part of our
statutes. It provides in the main
that when an offender has served
one-half of his sentence, with good
conduct credits, he is entitled to
a parole. -
"That -means he, can serve the
last half of Jhis sentence outside
under the supervision of the par
ole officer, to whom he is expected
to report at least . monthly. In
practical operation this system ia
a success. Over- SO per cent of
paroled men make good. Only
crimes of a lesser nature are.par
olable. Crimes of violence do not
come under its provisions. When
a judge sentences a man to prison
he is fully aware of -the effect on
such sentence of the operation of
the parole law and his sentence is
made accordingly. ,
- "The parole is ordinarily grant
ed when earned. The public is
apt to hear of the parole violator
but seldom hears of the 80 per
rent who make good. In the three
years I have been; governor only
four full pardons have been grant
ed. In each of these cases I be
came fully, convinced that the
prisoner was innocent. Each case
was most thoroughly investigated
before my decision was reached.
"Our prison Is supplied with a
good library .' Inmates are allowed
the daily papers. In common with
all.' the other state" institutions we
have a weekly .picture show.
Church services are held on Sun
day, both Protestant and Catholic.
In summer the inmates are allow
ed to play baseball and indulge in
other athletic' sports. All this for
the purpose of turning him out
a better man than when he came
in We do not always succeed.
Neither, do you on the . outside
realize 100 per cent efficiency.
And you deal with free men, with
men ambitious for success. We
deal with men who have lost.
"This institution is yours, gen
tlemen. ' It will be yours no mat
ter who is your governor. I am
honestly endeavoring to build It
into a real workshop, where not
valuable merchandise may be
manufactured, bnt where we may
salvage that other by-product of
inestimable worth a human soul
transforming him ino a useful
member of society.
v'Can you plasee any estimate
on what the redemption or even
one - such soul is worth? How
much say you If that one was
your boy?"
1 rtia thinao ano;at
stand are the hardest to write.
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can be
or taken
Wendell Phillips was traveling
through Qhfo o6de Vhen4 he fell hn
with' a car tuft of ministers ie
turning from a'conventloav OneVt
the ministers. a"soirtherner from"
Kentucky, was naturally not very
cordial ' to ', the opinions of . the
great abolitionist .and set out to
embarrass Phillips. So," before
the group of ministers, he said:
"You are Wendell Phuiips are
you not? Z ': 'Z ' Z'-Z
- f Yes, answered the great abo
litionisC . - - V
'.""And you are trying to free the
niggers, aren't you?"
"Yesslr, I am' 1 .
"Well, why. do. you preach your
doctrines up here? Why don't you
go over Into Kentucky?"
"Excuse me, are you a preach
er?" ;T " -
"IamTsIr." . .
"Are you trying, to save souls
from hell?" f ; '
v "Yes, sir; that Is my buainf'ss'
' "Well.. -why don't you go there
then?": asked Phillips ' .
Z A .minister,. like bis father be
fore him, had often officiated at
marriage ceremonies, but - this
was his first experience at "giving
i He was in a devout" mood; his
away the bride., .f , Y
BRING A - fR lEN'D WITH TO V TO
Drop in at
Sherman i
Clay & Co.
and hear "
recreates
Paderewski's exact playing! BatieT, Hofmann,- '
Cortot's exact playing! A"reprodtidr)e"rhcTdiurir ': ;
so perfect that the Steinwav itself is proud to ,
contain it.
SHefmanIay
244 NortK High St;
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16 SI High
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church was mail. fc Ui-a 1 a rjj
meager and"Jils family numerous
ThTs daughter had, been "especially;
expensive. - ' '
5"Vfbo givetbthfs' woman to ba
mafrled'to this man?". "droned! th
prea'eber, 'f '' . ' V, '
Z Gently the father f placed 1 thai
ftieauer nana oi tue oriae in nuu
of the embarrassed groom. ,U
VTake her; my boy,"? . e
Kclaimed.lhia face," agloWZ'It, 19
more, blessed Mo" give than to re
ceive." V:- -Z. M Zi :J-Z i
An American .'travelingXrt "En-
rope"" engaged a courier' Arriving
at ati inn4' In' Austria the man ask
ed his servant to enter" his. nanle in
accordance, with the polico regula
tions of that country. ' Some' Um
after, the man' asked Jhe' servant
If he had complied with life orders.
. "Yesr, sir." was tne reply. . -, .
."How did. you write my name? f
asked the mt:ZlZZ4'rZZZry
. "Well, sir. can'tTprpnounce U
answered the w&rvant, ;Vfint Z A
copied it front your portmanteau,
Slr.-. . 7,
j-;,Why, hny name slsn'tf there.
Ifring mtf the book" Tne register:
w"as,. brought,, andi instead ptbe"J
plain, American, name of .two syl- ,
iableiCthe following entry waa re
vealed: - . . ' vwS -z.y
"Monsieur W a r ranted tolld
leather." . Y;V'- -ZZ'ZZj'-:
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4 B AKER. 7 3 - cars of " catI
.leave here in one" .&&fIZ-j.ZZ&Z'
1.
SttAR IT
& (Go.
Telephone 2284
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ine mas ten
'. WANT to loan youthis wherl vr
tomorrow, next dayi or tsiy time "
you wish. Wash with it Your-
self. That's All there is to a"MAYTAG
deonstrationi' ;Njgati6ft-liUy;r,-V''
1 1
iiw jwciiciOTi iro persuasion, iro uanon- i
stratins: tricks TtteMAimselfZ
itself -7- must ' prove its unmatched ..ex-.
: cellencB-to-' ypatC , "': Clt 3
-wt uree you to make this. ' ,
practical frfciase test 'e.Isidei
with any other Rasher .thaVyoa believe i
tcrbe?sufgood.J No other method. is quite nf i
so cnviricing7quite so, determining. It, ZZ.,
ts I-"this' cbTnrh6nerBe, .'self-sale plaa'f,;
"thtft; J&eTwcMd.'-leaderihip of the Oyra-: Z
foam is raaintainfcd. li fK3nw-'.; Zsi
; Telephotievyour ae BsditZ" ?
and . we will bringf a MAYtTACi1 right -to' i -your
home where you niay wash with ' 4
it-alone, . ; :Z: '!-z:ZZ
MAYTAG SHOP
StY
Phone-221Ss
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