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About The Oregon statesman. (Salem, Or.) 1916-1980 | View Entire Issue (March 24, 1918)
TlTE OTtEGOX STATESMAN1 ; STXDAY, MARCH 21. 1C I ill .!. . " -Ti ill t - :. A rtwt ' li i Mil ' v r-. IH i : j - - v. ? V- i ; M?f-7 j j " "IT.:.. 4. xr-fj. i ' ly is if EfT.WM.'llii.'iiil.Jiil. I ..Eg..X .' J . t. I r definitely . In- , evetita . that It Fashions are bo fluenced r br .'current was only natural that the military note .should stand high In fashion de- tails for men. This trend, became so pronounced In its ornamentions and j embellishments of belts, in verted pleats, , fanciful - pocket - de signias;, ' etc.,' that "tit produced 'V an alarming consumption of fabrics so precious at" this time in the national scheme of wool conserration, The Economy - Board - of- The Na tional Defense Committee have found necessary ,'to curb this ten dency with, stringent mandates to the clothing s manufacturers and - de signers for the -elimination - of - all fashion derails that reauire aa. un necessary employment of fabrics. The edict has gone forth and all the clothing ', associations, both 'retail and wholesale, hare complied with the order "thereby introducing for Spring- and Summer & conspicuous moderation in fashion details. Belts on both suits- and overcoats are ab solutely taboo. Likewise box pleats, Inverted pleats, flaps on vests, pock et decorations requiring textra ma- teriar also cuff ornamentation which contribute to the. wastage of cloth. : At flrst'thdught one 'might think that this order will rob men's fash ions of all character and distinctive ness but an observation of the styles already 1 shown for the season will Immediately impress you with the clever resourcefulness, and versatility of c those, .who design the ; ? clothing fashions. . tC i - , v '- r. i, There have been evolved beauti fully artistic lines in modeling in both the - suits and overcoats that express ; class, individuality and re fill einent. As a compromise to the elimination :- of pocket flaps we see smart looking erescent shape pock ets and slashpockets. r These are set out withna touch of piping, that adds a smart' note of styling. The models in suits are still sug gestive i of the ' military but rather lnthe-form tracing lines than in decorative details, . This is accom plished H by a widening - of j the shoulders and a military blouse efr feet without, howver. the ; employ ment of padding. Also emphasizing the seams develops this military as pect, to the styles. Double-breasted suits will be . ex tremely popular this Spring and ex ceedingly smart lines in'the model ling are introduced to make them so. These coats emphasize the mili tary details referred to In the para graph above. Either piped crescent pockets or slash pockets are evident in ' almost all these - double-breasted suits. ."There will be some button ornamentation' but 'less than, hereto fore which will be especially notice able by the fewer button effects found on sleeves. - Since 'flap pockets come under the embargo, of course, there will be no button treatments on flaps but a few models use the button and pocket button hole with out the flap. vi : "j "v :.; . .- Single-breasted waits- are shown' a many. None of these garments show full or box backs, nearly all reflect the semi-form tracing: lines - with straight fronts, high chest and slight ly wider shoulders. Two breast and two side .pockets are shown on al most all these Spring suits. Few of the coats show vents. The popular materials are wor steds, cheviots, cassimeres, tweeds, Scotches and novelty i weaves and mixtures Anion c these novelty ef n 7 n n ssi - m m m m- - e. -w- - - ' Ill ' -f . i -.'fit mm fects the most popular are light weight whipcords, flannels, irride scentsr gaberdines and coverts. ' There really.is.no definite class of pattern ' effects 'that is given greater prominence than others in the prescribed vogue. Checks', over plaids, self-stripes, shadow tripes, pin checks, interwoven mixtures and pencil line variety are the most evi dent, , The color edicts, as fell, offer great latitude for the expression of personal preference. Colors which are displayed the more .prominently are browns and greens in various tones, grays, tans, plum, purple, myrtle, mauve and blue: are all rep resented in the variety of pattern effects- and combinations .of : these colors constitute the mixed patterns. Sprinklings of .red and' green are popular as the outstanding colors in the schemes that Involve a number of colors on a dark foundation tone. "Vests arenearly all single-breasted and many of them are unllned. The collarless vests are most in vogue and there are no flaps on the pock ets. , ' - Trousers are about the same as heretofore in width, length and full- ne3s Fewer cuffs .are shown on troucers as a move toward cloth conservation. . ' 'Mid-summer suits are shown most ly in 'cool cloths and other novelty patterened weaves that are washable yet look like the woolen fabrics. Homespuns, crashes and flannels are also popular and next to these come the Palm Beach Cloths and silk tex tures. Many of these suits are made with vests now so as to influence men to wear these earlier Jn the season thereby promoting the cotton mixture fabrics for preference over the woolen textures. This not Only is toward wool conservation - but likewise encourage economy .-J. be cause these suits are much more in expensive than 'the woolen garments These suits are nearly all made single breasted with -the same re strictions as to belts, etc., . as are advocated on the woolen suits. There will also be an absence of belts of the same materials ; on trousers, a vogue which started, to assume some prominence last summer, ';",': Spring Overcoats will be -mostly form-fitted, flare skirt style and -"but- and all ton 1 through models in box Chesterfield shapes. In nearly these models the skirts are - fuller and a trifle longer than heretofore. Some show patch" pockets. IS A GOAT A FISH? 'The entire scientific and argument ative force of the government, as well as! the Bureau of Fisheries and the keeper of the Zoo, may be called upon to decide a momentous question In the classification of things Washington is occasionally called oy- on to perform the phenomenal. Only a short time ago the government was asd td declare that s frog was a -chicken, and later that a lobster was an animal. In Arizona they aie claiming that goat meat Is not meat, notwithstanding the fac that it has frequently been sold as veal,, mutton, and also venison, and they are de manding; that the Food Commission agree . with them. V What decision the government may make has ' not been indicated, but there fs some reason to believe that Arizona people who want to eat goat on meatless days will In the etd go down to the fish market and buy a mackerel Philadelphia Telegr a; X ODD AND INTERESTING It takes about 15 minutes for the sound of heavy gunfire In France to travel to' England. Italy has imposed a government tax on all restaurant and cafe tills amounting to more than 20 cents. Siberia, the immense territory up on which the Germans are believed to have set their eyes, comprises a much larger area! than the United States, out side of Alaska and our Island possessions Many . persons have considered the country as a glacial desert, and a place only for the punishment of Russian offenders. This is trne of the northern part of the territory, but the largest part of Siberia Is a land with Immense com mercial prospects, i Gold and silver mines, almost Inexhaustible, are there. The soil of a large part of the province possesses marvelous productivity. T " ""- " iuwu Bk vu-U97 j V ej i y as vwwi o ait auuuv vud Da. u i as - 11I I LltU 1 121 re SHin. HIT if ana ,CI1 1 1 . : ; . -- : , ' - - : l! - i'i .. ! r i i B IV- 1 I I I . ' ' I I II New. S - .' - . ' -ft . : ' t . , , . . ... -.. , F -rioi Mil , f "t '." We are fortunate this Spring. By ordering very earl y we have avoided the'shortages in woolens" from whic h so many men's stores are suffering. By ordering early we also avoided recent increases. in price which are Jiandi capping many stores. Our many years' experience as manufacturers of wool ens and as retailers of men's furnishing goods has qualifie d us as judges of men's wearing apparel " . 1 -i Most of you are perfectly familiar with our reputatio n in this community. We carry nothing but absolutely d ependable merchandise. Furthermore, our guarantee of absolute satisfacCion goes with every garment we sell a guarantee of style, fit, quality and reasonableness of pri ce. We are proud; of our showing this season. Just glan ce at our display windowsthen come inside. You'll bq uick to see the superior excellence of the materials and the exceptionally high grade workmanship, while Ae wid e variety of distmctive, exclusive models Hart, Schaffner & Marx and Overcoats $30- $35 $40 Suits $2S Bisliop All-Wbol lp Suits arid Overcoats k $20 f $25 $30 $35