The Oregon daily journal., July 21, 1918, Page 38, Image 38

10
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, : PORT LAND, SUNDAY -. MORKlJG, JULY 21, ; 1918.
gown that wu.tht Troduct of a clever
designer, and It surely turned our Ideas
about suite toper turvy.
; The coat was split up the back as
well as the front.' It was worn over a
Ions cuirass blouse, the kind that fains
In, Importance every day. The blouse
was made of a richly embroidered tri
cot in blue, black " and dashes of dull
reed. , It . did " hot, clin tightly to the
figure, but outlined it more than usual.
Over It buns the, loose blue serge coat,
opening in a deep V In the 'middle of
the front and the back. It was closed
at the neckline and-had a collar of the
material and the skirt was exceedingly
narrow-and short. ;
By the way,' It is wise for any woman
who orders a new suit today to see that
the- skirt, has a sUable hem. for t the
new order to the shoemakers, given by
the government, which- demands 'low
shoes for -the duration of the war. may
change the skirt length. . - : 4
I doubt IC, The .length may e changed
but .it will -not be because of the low
shoes,)-for gaiters, 'which are made of
fabric, may be as high, as desired, and
women prefer them to high boots.
Wei may also adopt the French fash
ion of wearing serviceable Oxford ties
with straight , heels and rounded toes.
The bootmakers say they , have more
orders for these today than ever. With
such shoes, the average woman does
nor care whether her skirt is eight or
ten inches from the ground, unless she
is given to suffering from exposed.
ankles.
' 4-
2 iSJJi!??!
1 ' ' f V i J S
Pat O'Brien
Writes of His
Exp
enences
Designers
Of Dress
Heed Times
By Anne Rltteanonse
pARIS Is never handicapped in creat-
ting fashions by the action of other
'designers. That is why she is powerful.
America has always suffered under this
handicap because she has followed Paris.
"She has never been Inclined to risk the
exploitation of fabrics, fashions and
colorings that were not sponsored . by J
wllllng save, but a most expert, in
telligent slave. In her very following of
: Paris was the extaordlnary inclination
, of 1 whole continent toward good and
fashionable dressing.
It Is said of us that we acknowledge
'the best In every nation and bring it to
our shores. For this we have been
- whipped 'with scorn and lashed with
ridicule, but it .seems an exceedingly
good process of cultivation for a young
nation like this. We know the best
, In every department of art. science and
literature. If we are compelled to put
v bur knowledge to practical use, we at
least have the best to go on. We are
not ignorant.
1 The time has come for this experi
ment, as we all "inowf and the observer
thinks that a few, medals of honor
should be distributed to those who have
gone "over the top" in designing clothes
in this country. It took great com
' mercial courage, and it required a sound
, knowledge of the American public.
Here are two anecdotes which ac
centuate the point. They happened a
doien years apart. Mme. Paquin saw
, several bolts of checked silk in a man
ufacturer's hands. Neither the weave,
the - coloring- or the design was in
, fashion, to quote our own phrase. The
manufacturer complained that he had
no call for this quantity of material
and that he would sell it for about a
frano and a half a yard. Mme. Paquin
took it all. went to her salons on the
Rue de la Palx, turned the cheap
check silk into an alluring frock of her
- own design, and then wore it at Trou
. ville-by-the-sea. She made the frock.
the design, the color and the fabric
fashionable. Everyone wanted to wear
what she wore. She sold every inch of
. ' : the material at a price that brought
' her unmeasured profit pn the trans--.
action.
Last month an American designer
was looking over the stock of a lace
Importer. "Nothing new," said the im
porter. "Here I am hejd up with about
60 Spanish lace scarfs which I bought
at a venture, thinking 1 could distribute
- then in the trade in America, but no
, - one took them. The one answer is that
they are not tn fashion.
. ' The designer said that if the tm
' porter would give him one. he would
.;, turn it Into a gown that would sell all
. the other scarfs, on condition that he
, . received a commission on their sale.
. The bargain was closed. The gown
was designed. It sold immediately. It
rwaa copied so, fast that ihe other 49
scarfs melted away like flakes of soap
- 1 in hot water. Spanish lace was offered
as a first fashion.
m
. That is a good example of the change
that has come over the American mer-
1 chant and the American designer. We
no longer have to ask what In the fash
- ion. but are probably enabled to make
the fashion for our own continent.
Another departure from the fashion
, as laid down by Paris this year, Is the
..-wearing of black. This Is not for
mourning, but for street, luncheons,
. dinners and the theatre
It is- really not a good fashion, and
those who cry for the morale of a na-
' tion, which merely means the upkeep
of tts optimism in the highest form,
would prefer to see this a season of
gayer colors. There will probably be
. enough mourning in the land, and our
millions of soldiers do not wish to see
" all the women garbed in black. It does
not make them look upon life with
1 more Joy.
However, we have started on a career
of black , for this summer season, and
y only the Individualists depart from it,
It is a condition for gratitude that we
.have enough "rebellious souls to Insist
- upon blue, pink green and yellow as
" a contrast to the moving procession
. of black- Jet, taf fetatulle. satin, pearles
nd Jersey.
' . " Another ' fact about this season for
black, for which we are truly grateful
is the extreme manner In which it is
oresen ted. There is nothing gloomy
- or depressing In the way It is handled.
'- Onlv the color-Jtself strikes a somber
note. 1 Bu color is always the note of
victory, the sounding of the symbols of
- " a deed well done, and ss the psychology
- of the masses is : the most important
hinr nf the hour, we should become
students' of this peculiar science pf the
. mind and exploit u 10 me greatest
' ' It might be wise , for us to follow
, in riotaii the psychology of the general
of the allied armies. General Foch. -One
who knows him well,' says that General
Foch thinks that?tp bp- gloomy is to
mAmit that matter has conquerea spim
Hopefulness, Is ' first In his creed r for
' victory, , He believes that depression is
a confession, of Intellectual - weakness
Irvin Cobb Popular
Writer for British
All Americans in England have been
struck by the currency there, as evi
denced on the booksellers' shelves, of
the works of Mark Twain, and have
been impressed by what presumably Is
the great esteem in which he is bdrne In
England. .There is then particular point
In the recent declaration from London
that "Irvin Cobb is Mark Twain's log
ical successor." And Messrs. Hodder
and Stoughton announce that "in re
sponse to- many requests they will
publish shortly some of the works of
Irvin S. Cobb, the great American nov
elist and humorist. , who has Just come
from the states on an important mis
sion."
-UTWITTINQ the Hun." Just pub-
VS llshed by Harper A Brothers.' is
the title of Lieutenant Pat O'Brien's
book which tells the absorbing story
of his marvelous escape from Germany.
It Is one of the impossible fairy" tales
of this war which have happened.
Through all the pages we feel the spirit
of . fearless youth (Lieutenant O'Brien
Is In . his early twenties) "rejoicing as
a strong man" in his game with danger.
It was a year ago. in May. 19 IT. that
Pat.. O'Brien an American cltisen In the
British Flying corps, after training tn
Canada,' sailed for England. In August
he was a full-fledged pilot engaged dally
In aerial combats at the front. On the
seventeenth of that month he was taken
prisoner by the Germans, and the day
before Christmas he arrived, a free man,
freed by his awn intrepidity, in London.
In those five months he went through
enough to satisfy the most greedy seek
er of excitement. Even into that one
dav. the seventeenth, was crowded a
movie drama df sensations. "I killed
two Huns in a double-seated machine
In the morning." he says in "Outwitting
the Hun," "another In the evening, and
then I was captured myself. I may have
spent more Eventful days in my life, but
I can't recall them.
' 1
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4
Dr. Holt's Book in
Musical Comedy
The fame of Dr. L- Emmett Holt and
his little book. "The Care and Feeding
of Children" has penetrated to the musi
cal comedy stage. In the spring success.
"Rock-a-Bye Baby," a song "According
to Dr. Holt" is one of the hits of the
evening. Every man and woman in the
audience knows what the ballad Is about.
tight away.
Above The Belgian soldiers started the fashion tasseled caps. . This bit
of head covering is made of thin- black velvet with a soft crown. Therr
is a rosette with tassels of chenille hanging at'' the side.
Below The frock on the left, reviving the. minaret of Paul Poiret, is
made from strands of glittering jet and the outswlnglng tunic is
handed with blue velvet ribbon. The narrow skirt is made of chiffon
with loops of jet at the hem. On the right a Spanish lace scarf is
turned into a dinner gown. This is a narrow black satin skirt with
wide box pleated back and the surplice bodice and apron front arranged
by one scarf of black silk Spanish lace mounted over thin cloth of
' silver.
and will lose more.' battles of every
kind than any other single cause. Mind
power, thinks General Foch. can snatch
victory out of the arms of defeat as
well as the coming of unexpected rein
forcements. He said during a battle
that no man need ever be tired at a
crisis if. he manages his mind right.
One of -his great maxims is "Resist
the Irresistible." and another favorite
maxim during his long life In the thick
of things was "Victory is a thing of the
will."
e e
It Is quite probable that Foch will
go down into history as a maker of
epigrams, for the wise student of this
man" and his tactics is garnering up
his brief and vivid sayings. It would
be well for us in' America to not only
let him direct our soldiers, as he ? is
doing, but to let him direct our mind,
our temperament and our- outlook "on
the war. ', -
There is no getting beyond the sen
tence that "victory Is a thing of the
will." It is this psychology that we
should work upon, and the constant
clerfrlng of the black does not help to-
wara a more brilliant expression of the
will and the spirit. Therefore, If we
must wear black gowjns, : even though
we are not in mourning, let us - have
them as gay as possible.
In one of the most glittering exam
ples, built for the stage, the minaret
tunic of Paul Poiret's invention has
been revived in a sllzhtlv modified
form.' It is built of velvet ribbon and
clashing strands of let.
it Is easy to realize that taffeta has
come into its first summer fashion
although the popular mind does not re-
gara u as one of the lovelv wmm
of the world, because It is plentiful.
There Is no trouble-about getting all
the taffeta one .wants, and it In
that we model our wardrobes for the
near future on the materials that can be
bought :in this country In sufficient
quantity to correspond to our needs.
The conversion of non-essentials Into
war resources Is going on merriiv ..
wisely. It takes thought of th inm.
vlduali and It i-also. takes thought of
the nation. A member of the war In
dustries board who is mapping out the
continent Into a checker-board
tivlty In order to bring about this trans
formation ; in the business world, is
araeni in aim oeuei that the individual
will not suffer. - People will not be
turned out of work in mass Wn
government plants? will be given all the
wors. :
The new and great Idea which must
be carried out if we are to live, is that
everyone be kept at work in the pe
culiar field of labor in which he is
skilled, and there is enough to be .done
for the- government in every form of
labor to keep each individual at the
task for which he is educated and in
which he can make his wage.
Even though the Individual is cared
for in the practice of the conversion of
non-essentials to . war work and we
must admit that this is the great and
important thing there is no doubt-that
the process will leave " us high and dry
as far as variety of resources is con
cerned. There will be no encouragement to
experiment in materials, fashions or
colors from now on. We must wear
what we can get in quantity, for com
merce will not be allowed to take up
the labor of skilled men for such , ex
periments. - . .
There is no .thought of economizing
in our purchases of -clothes to the ex
tent of destroying the ability of the
skilled person to earn a living wage, but
mere is a demand, and there soon wilt
be a necessity, for us to conserve our
caprices. We must wear clothes in ma
terials , and colors easily produced tn
tnis country, , and through this means
will come the standardisation of fashions.
Thia does not mean that we will dress
alike; it means that we may dress with
more variety than ever before. But we
can't say that we don't like taffeta and
that we want : oomethlng - newer. We
must take taffeta if there Is plentyiof
k, ana tnen make the best of iit.
Much can be done with this material
that will result In a1 gown out of the
ordinary and , conspicuous : for charm
and cleverness. If you could have seen
a woman who came into a restaurant
for dinner wearing a certain black taf
feta - gown, you ; would have been con
vinced in the twinkling of an eye. that
the fabric, matters nothing if the de
signer has cleverness - , . .: , v ; (
The skirt was made of narrow ruffles
that extended from waist to ankles, each
ruffle edged with a white silk cord. The
hem was excessively narrow. .. The foun
dation for these ruffles fitted the figure
like Sheath. There was s bodice.
straight and simple, and the ma I or nart
of It was a yoke with short sleeves which
war braided with white cord tn sv fan
tastic deBlgn. At the side of the waist
was deep pink satin rose with green
velvet leaves. The slippers and stockings
were green. There was nothing demure
aeoui mis DiacK taffeta gown. ,
4 Blue serge is a fabric that will always
IN THE NEW
MAGAZINES
The August American
The August American Magazine leads
off with "The Story of the Yankee Kid,
which Is an account of the exploits of
Harvey Johnson, a 14-year-old Kentucky
boy who has fought in the trenches of
Europe. "Seven Good Things Coming
Out of the War" is by Dr. Frank Crane,
the famous editorial writer. Charles
Edison, son of Thomas A. Edison, has
written 'an article called "My Experi
ences Working for Father," In which he
tells some new stories of Thomas A. Edi
son. Baroness Huard is the author of a
war article called "How Would You Like
These Germans in Your House T Booth
Tarkington has written a splendid arti
cle called "Using the Kaiser ;" Fred Kelly
tells "What Kinds of People to Trust in
Money Matters." and Dr Rose says,
"You Don't Naturally Get Fat as You
Grow Older."
The theatrical article this month is
by and about Billle Burke. George M.
Reynolds, the Chicago banker, tells
"Why the Decisive Man Wins Out." and
"Making a Splurge for the Neighbors" is
an anonymous article on living too high.
The fiction contains stories by such well
known authors as Jack Lalt, Ellis Parker
Butler. Will C. Beale and Francis Lud-
wig. Holworthy Hall s new serial con
tinues and the Interesting People and
Family Money departments are as inter
esting as usual.
August Cosmopolitan
Miss Mary Carolyn Davles. talented
daughter of Mr. and Mrs. S. L. Davles
of 74S Greenwood avenue, Portland,
whose- rise in the field of letters has
been rapid since her graduation fro.n
Washington high school tn 1910, has a
poem. "God, Be Uoou to Her, feature '1
in the August Cosmopolitan. The theme
of the short bit of verse Is a soldier's
plea for his mother and the poem.
which with its attracUve decoration,
occupies two pages. Is Illustrated by
W. T. Benda.
4 "
.-"
A striking picture by E. Rosset-Cra nger, which is one of the gems of
the first "Salon" of the war, which is Paris' reply to the. Jeers of the
Huns who fancy they have thrown the French capital into a panic.
T"
Swinnerton's
Latest Novel
IT IS, of course, notorious that many
of England's finest writers received
their first recognition, and for long
tnetr oniy lumunuai ujjii. v t ,
United States. Meredith and Browning '
are perhaps the names that moat reaotiy
come to mind as those of English writ
ers who are conspicuous examples of
this singular phenomenon. And today
the writers in 1 ngland who culUvate
the moat distinguished literary art are
not better known, if they are even as
popular, at home, as they are in Ameri
ca. That is. with one exception. And that
is the curious case of FranK swinnerion.
Writer Gives
Trapper's Tale
Of Sacajawea
ACAJAWKA (Bird Woman) to whose
memory etvnd a statue In Port,
lend city park, is remembered as the
brave and resourceful Indian woman
who guided Lewie and Clark across the
Rocky mountains and through to the
Pacific coast. James WlUard Schults.
author of a half dosen excellent Indian
stories, has written In "Bird Women"
the story of Sacajawea. as he had It
a writer whose talent is hailed by his , from an old trapper and an Indian
local colleagues as among the very nrst woman, both of whom had her story
and finest of our day ; and who so far.
mysteriously enough, has had but a very
indifferent success over here. This has
been a pity, but it Is a situation which,
happily, Is not likely much longer to
endure.
With the publication of, "Nocturne"
(George H. Doran company). Swlnner
ton is presented in a book which can
not possibly escape mldespread atten
tion. This novel marks the summit of
the author's art so far. It is In Itself
a source of exquisite delight to any
mind remotely clalmtng intelligence. And
as an earnest of things to come. It has
a value well-night sensational to those
who in any degree have at heart the
progress of the art of fiction.
The simplicity of the conception of
"Nocturne" is most arresting, and Us
achievement as a work of art is the
more startling In that the author has
forced himself to work within extremely
difficult limitations. There are in the
story only half a dozen characters, and
the entire action occupies little more
time than the story takes to read. The
events described, to be exact, occur In
the space of a single night from P-
ro. till the next morning. Five or six
characters, men and women, each play
a definite part in a story which moves
with dash and spirit, and which Is a
character study of a brilliance difficult
to match within the whole range of mod
ern fiction.
Objector to Draft
Overcomes Scruples
Sunset for July
The natural Mexican distrust of the
United States . is being cultivated by
every device of practiced German in
trigue. Through the corrupted Mexican
press our neighbors to the south are be
ing systematically .misinformed about
American intentions and condiUons. An
account of this Insidious propaganda ap
pears in the July issue of Sunset mag a.
sine. An American who has spent year
in Mexico goes to the -root of this lm
portant problem.
July Popular Mechanics
A variety of timely topics Is to be
found In the July Popular Mechanics
magazine. ' The articles, 296 In number,
are made interesting and easy to under
stand by S81 illustrations. The para
mount Importance of ship tonnage at
present gives Increased value tp any pro
tective device. A unique apparatus to
save ocean, vessels from sinking, after
being torpedoed, has aroused Interest be
cause of the performance shown by mod
els In recent demonstrations.
' The device consists pf a steel disk, with
coie-shaped buckets attached. Lowered
in the vicinity of a hole in the ship's
hull, the lnrushing water would carry
the end bucket through the opening so
that the disk could be pulled into place
over the break. Another Invention that
protects the radio. In case a ship Is tor
pedoed, consists of coll springs interposed
between the opposite ends of the antenna
and the masts, lengthening the aerial au
tomatically in case the masts are sprung.
A new electric dubbing machine and
msAt fjrilnff fallrino- tnnl km nw art. I way
dltioas to the many devices for speeding ( beg two copies of your book-plate
from Sacajawea'a own Hps.'
"Mr. Schults relates how In the early
sevenUes he himself went from New
York to Fort Benton. Mont., where he
met Joseph Klpp. the most noted Indian
trader of the Northwest, and his mother
a full-blooded Mandan Indian woman.
It was from them that he secured the
narrative that he presents in his latest
book. The method of telling Is eon yersa
tlonal, even colloquial; but in the ap
pendix are quoted passages from the .
official Journey of the Lewis and Clark
expedition which substantiate the facts
which Mr. Schultz has dreaaed up tn
semi-fiction form. This is the final
tribute of the explorers to thisdaunt
less young woman : "She has born with
a patience truly admirable the fatigues
of so long a route, encumbered with the
charge of an infant, who is even now
only 1 months old. We therefore
paid Charbonea'u (Sacajawea' husband!
his wages, amounting to fSOO.M In
cluding the price of a horse and lodge
purchased of him. Reasonable rates
for the services of twoguides for a year
and a half!'
"The book is Illustrated by drawings
by Mr. Schults' son. Hart Merrlan
Schults. or "Lone Wolf." as his mother's
Indian people call him. f Boston : Hough
ton. Mifflin Co.: price $1.60 net)
N.Y. Critic Declares
Rebecca West Genius
a
Rebecca West. English womsn whose
.articles In the New Republic and recent
novel. "The Return of the Soldier, have
Lewtston. Pa , July Id. After having i attracted much appreciative attention In
hidden out In the Seven Mountains be- this country. In a symposium In the New
yond his home near Belleville almost J York Sun on the most significant book
continually since last September to es- i of the year, awarded that glowing prise
cane the draft. Seth 8. Yoder. an Amlsh to Mary Webb s "Gone to Earth, pun-
man, suddenly came out or ms noie sna
snnounced 'that he had overcome his
conscientious scruples and was ready to
go to camp. No charges were preferred
against him as he was sent on his wsy.
Here Is shown one of the new blac
commonplace. The skirt is a seri
sflk eord and cut in peg-top fash
k taffeta" oowns that is far from
e of small ruffles edged with white
ion.- " ' -. -. w V- ' ' ' .'' ! i ' '' '
bo with us, as far as the manufacturers
and the war board can look ahead. Now,
what are we going to do with ft to lift
it out of the commonplace? - . -
It is usually midnight blue, and. given
sv few yards of it in this color, the de
signers do not want to sit down and turn
it out into insignificant frocks and. In
conspicuous suits, As an' evidence that
they do not intend to rematn in a rut,
they have already designed costumes of
this average,' routine material which
make one gasp.,-";.-.': .. .. .. ; ,
A woman who came to a "defense"
luncheon one day, ore a blue serge
Second Printing :
; Order Is Planned
-. "Keeping Our Fighters Fit For War
and After," by Edward Frank Allen, for
which President Wilson" has- written-
special prefatory statements, has gone
into a second printing less taan a month
af ter publication. - f . '
Book Plate Exhibit
The art room at the Central library
Is forming a collection f interesting
book-plates which are being exhibited
In the second floor rotnrda at the
library and Miss Isom will be glad
to receive duplicates of others not in
the collection. There must be many
desirable book-plates belonging to Port
land people that have not found their
into the library collection. May
llshed In the United States by E. P.
Dutton Co.
"The year's discovery." she says, '"hsa
been Mary Webb, author of Gone to
Earth.' he Is a genius, and I shouldn't
mind wagering that .she Is going to ba
the most distinguished writer of our
generation." An stmoephere of mystery,
at least In thia country, envelopes the
personality of Rebecca West. The only
things that are known sbout her are
that Rebecca West Is not her real name,1
although It is the name under which
she receives her mall at two English
addresses, that ahe is one of several
sisters and that her sympathies sre pas
sionately with the working people. :
up shipbuilding.
to add to the art room collection.
Summer Fashion Thoughts
NY sort of embellished shoulder scarf
s is- ah accessible accessory to our
ess. these days. Glass fringe is one
of the newer touches -to add charm to
scarfs of colored tulle and net.
Gray and black are a smart combina
tion, in cloth and satin, or in silk and
serge. . Some , touch of color, of course.
is needed to emphasise this combina
tion and give a a bit of dash. Oriental
embroidery, in silk or beads. Is a touch
used sometimes by the discriminating
dressmaker. K. ,
Fins pin tncks are a noticeable fea
ture of some of the cloth costs that are
a part of two plec suits of fine fabric
Soft sport hat of "ribbon In all the be
coming shades of blue. rose, green end
yellow are worn at beach and country
summer places. ' .
A very effective hat worn recently by
a well dressed young woman was made
of navy .blue Georgette crepe. Over it
was stretched a network of deep pur
ple fringe. : The Junctures of the dif
ferent strands of-fringe were empna
sized with a small, dull brown wooden
bead.;i'; -., :-y. : ...
'- Lace is still much used In fine linge
rie, and -the finest of real filet Is used
with - charming . effect. It wears well,
too, and tn these days when we try to
buy with wisdom, we think a bit about
the durability of our lingerie. , ; ' .
'.Some of th'e nw"aU enveloping capes
lof silk Jersey are lined with silk In
vivid contrasting color. Cerise ts used,
for instance, in a cape of bisctit color.
orange yellow in one ef gray, and a
green lining in a cane of dark blue.
Where are our new blouses going to
open? Nobody knows, of course., but
just now there ts a tendency toward
acceptance of the blouse that opens at
the side. '
And although . some of the new
blouses show collars, still "most of them
are of the cellar! ess variety with a
rolling effect at the back. American
women have found this line Infinitely
becoming, and they are Insisting on Its
continuance with a perseverance that
la really commendable.
Short neglige course, are fea
tured, but some of the very attractive
new rest robes of Georgette and chiffon
and tulle show long trains, sometimes
fan shape, sometimes simply long ends
of the fabric trailing at the back.
Dark sleeves are shown in some 1 of
the attractive new blouses of tan
Georgette drape. For the woman al
ways watching for some practical
touch in new clothes, these blouses ap
peal mightily. For the dark sleeves.
be It remembered, do not show soil so
quickly as light ones. It is, a rather
gloomy thought to remember that they
probably really do become soiled al
most as quickly as do white ones, but
if you must wear a blouse for a con
siderable stretch of tune on a long
railroad Journey, for Instance, or all
day long doing. Red Cross work, that
may be a bit ; dusty you feel - far
fresher- at the end of the time in
dark sleeved blouse than in a light one.
Raise Rabbits and
Own Your Home
Oakland. CaL. July 20. (X. If. 8.) Tb
Oakland real estate board has- recently
completed an Investigation In which It
was discovered that any housewife can
buy a home with the revenue derived .
from raising rabbits in the back yard for
stock and market purposes. .
To prove-that it Is possible they have
hired a rabbit specialist and win fur
nish expert advice to any one wishing
to buy a bungalow on such term a. A .
pamphlet has been Issued giving the de
tails and plans for a miniature farm that
would give the best results. .
Hair Under Arms
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