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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 28, 1915)
TV 1 - - - , Tl- Your Wardrobe Cannot Be Complete Unless You Have a Skating Suit or Two-Fashion's Newest Notes False Gods Too Often Fol lowed In Frantic Search; For Diversion Are Tou a, Masquerader? By Mme. R," INQUIRED the great cou- turlere, "shall the fabric be duvetyn, dear madam, or th elusive panecla, or perhaps you prefer a fine velourT" "For the skating ault?" asked mi dame, pulling her brown together. "Oh, poof! I don't care very much! But ee to it that the skirt la well padded." Forsooth, this Is no trifling matter. Those of us who are not sure of our steps upon the ballroom floor are now to attempt to put them on Ice! Gad oeks! And upon this slippery, decep tive, mischievous surface we ere to slide about olad in the most expensive and beautiful togas. Question: Is the Ice soft boiled? Does It give with reneroua pliability when a human, without warning, stretches a perfectly good and ordinarily upright anatomy upon its friendly bosom? It matters not. The thing is that skating suits must be had.- Ordinarily we wore frocks In which we ate Mid danced. Now we must design them for eating and dancing and skating. Where bare shoulders once were now stoles shall be. Where uncovered arms were fluttering In the atmosphere now muffs must wave. Truly, it Is a busy world. In the good old. days the skating suit was made up of all the family swearers and mufflers, with nether garment of any old wool. Not so the modernized and fashionable skating costume No material Is too rich for it, no furry pplt too expensive. Fur thermore, there mut be skating suits for varlouH occasions and times. The morning outfit may include the woolly stuffs; tlint Is guile correct, though some of these sports' suits bear fabu lous prices. For the afternoon there Is a fluffier costume. For the eve ning words fall us! There Is to be no limit to fro tli cr and fuss! A skirt and jacket of glazed kid are making a sensation, a.i a famous fash ion show, brought over by foreign cour turlerrs. cues wigwagging Its circuit ous Journey across the continent. The cap Is also of kid. and the tall, long, crinkly boots are made to match. There Is a woolly muffler uttachtuent, very llky and heavily embrolderied, with end of glazed kid The gloves are gauntlets, end the muff Is of fur and kid combined. The very saucy little robe will com prise the skirt of plaid or striped vel vet In wonderful color combinations now In vogue, and the Jacket of plain vefVet with the t;sual decorations of fur. List. too. while we tell secrets. The heavy velours of the upholstery department are being ransacked for material for Ice togs. Perhaps it is because they will make the wearer feel padded Safety first in skating suits is our motto It is quite as dangerous to skate in thin i-lothes as to nkxte on thin ice. We offer the suggestion. The new cape effects in fur ami the tall military hats of aeal are coming to the fore as skating suits actually assemble themselves for wear. The heavy band of fur about the eklrt Is limited only by the amount of money you dare to upend. One can al most know the wealth of one's friend by the width of the band. Utile fur, little money; much fur, (iulte a lot; Ho it Koes. For evening "skatitiK" heavy satin? will be worn; faille also, brojadea, and even metallzed silks. Escorto is a good material; it Is a wool with a silky finish. Great liberty will be p-nnilud In the selection of color, and It Is pre dicted that very bright hues will ap pear. If not in the gowns themselves, then In the woolly stoles, muffs and chapeaux. A freak among skating suits nas wool pantalettes with a fringe of wool, topped with a band of embroidered wool flowers. If one wearies of psnta lettcs of such attractive design, ne may wear them as sufflers! Nothing is lost in thlB world. It Is said. The most beautiful of all costumes re entirely of white, preferably white velours de lalne, or . white velvet, trimmed with white fox. Half a dozen beauties, so arrayed, would assemble a floek of angels. Sometimes there Is a touch of color, supplied by large scarlet poppy, or a cluster of geran iums In red velvet, or a rose in XatMer blue, with leaves of bright tron and gold tissue. ' And, by the way, the skating cos tume Is not necessarily a suit, made tip of eklrt and Jacket. Quite as often it Is a one-rece gown, cut on prinoeas lines, and with the customary baui of fur about the hem. To arms, women! To the arms r.t your skating partners! May llicir flops be steady and their rooting sure if rot, then heaven help you and your new frock not to mention your very giod bone! We nope for the lst. Everything Russian li deciiJedRy in the Yront line or i'aSiiloi. Russian boots are worn, while the flowing, tvll coat of the Cossack inspired the gown and coat fashions of t'te s.aaon. The lavish use of furs shows the Russian Influence. Now the Kusslan hat Is quite the thing as colder weather comes to blue our noses. A hat most unhiJe is of Hudson aeal, shaped like the n.iko. Jt one of the few startling things of this very conservative fa ilon season. There is a small paton4 leather visor from three points of th'3 edge of the crown. A rosette holds a smail bunch of peacock feathers directly In Trent. Small hats remain In favor, and the flowered toque is hav.ntf groat popu larity. Usually the ht itself Is of white plush, and the flowers are laid flat upon the crown. These decora tions are wonderful to behold, rich in coloring, and exquislti in material. The fabric manufacturer are turn ing some entirely new tricks in com bining fabrics Into one weave. A material designed for early spring la a voile de lalne ground on which appear graduated folds of serge headed with a fancy silk paasamenterie. The effect 1b not unlike rows of tibbon woven together. Another piece of voile shows appliqued scallops of serge, outlined with silk floss in buttonhole tltch. Another has rows of silk fringe et about five Inches apart, and headed with a colored paasamenterie. Bars foulard Is a new fabric and has a silky surface that makes it particularly "drapable." A few nar row black and whit stripes and black and whits checks are shown, and small patterns predomlnata. The loud check Qui Vivm. and the bizarre, startling design Is relegated to the shejt. For frocks for southern trips, there is a new linen batiste that Is very beautiful. Floral effects of several faint tones on white are pleasing to the eye, even if a bit discouraging to one's bank account. All the new novelties are expensive. Park red is the newest day color. It is used also for evening wraps. All these deep red tones are called Oarl baldl reds, whether they are light or dark, and are high style In Paris, both for afternoon and evening dresses. They have not yet been seen here to any extent Ons pretty young woman has a whole outfit, Russian suit, small round gathered Russian velvet toque and velvet muff, all skunk trimmed, of the red. At any rate it is a newer color than purple or Russian green. The present fashion for the Rus sian style of coats and jackets is fur ther emphasized by the latest fad of wearing Russian charms and good luck bringers. These charms are usually in the shape of richly ornamented small cross, made of silver filigree or studded with Jewels and suspended in front from the neck. The Cossack cap, which often accompanies the fur trimmed coat cut In a Russian blouse form, is sometimes trimmed on one side with a Jewel ornament, colored enamel, for instance, made in Rsnsian fashion. In the Tanagra robes the most beau tiful tones of pink, yellow, green or blue satin are used; ring velvet is a good material also, as It drapes like a piece of chiffon. Metal laces In long, scarflike sleeves and drSp skirts add elegance. The draping Is always in long Greek-like lines. It is often difficult to tell whether a new modl Is an afternoon dance frock or an evening one, for the after noon daijce frocks are more or less decoilette and of thin material like the evening frock. A stunning gown Is made of peacock blue gabardine with a slot seam down the back. A stitched band at the sides holds the plaited peplum, which la further ornamented for a small dis tance with shirring terminating in godets The bottom of this stitched down band forms the waistline and holds at the side fronts a second and shorter peplum. The front of the Jacket has no peplum, the bdy part slightly crossing and made adjust able. There Is a small half moon shaped pocket at each side. The fancy buttonholes, made like spades, are backed with self material. The co'.lar and the facing of the front are of fancy striped ribbon. A novel effect Is obtained by inserting an oval piece of the same ribbon into the lower part of the sleeveR. A cord hold the full ness of the sleeves at the wrl, the cuffs flaring below. The craze for fur trimming is no longer restricted to the RJilace, hi It were. Fur now adorns 'ue extremities of the latest knickers, and curl? grace fully round the neck, sleeves and hem of the newest nightie. No tucks ruffle their surface, no insertion intrdues on the expanse of color, buttons me not. The nightdress ub to .lat; is a simple one-piece affair, which sl.ps on over the head and possesses the biiefest of sleeves. It may bd outline 1 with beaver or marten. A khakl-colored gabardine suit has the short Jacket made ai.no.--t straight. The single breasted- front is buttoned down with six buttons. The fulliitss of the tde fronts in sligntly gathered at the height of the Ust button. There la a slanting slit po:ket at ea:I. sine of the peplum. Two plnllR are heid by a braid strap. The long rleeves have two small wedge shaped inser Hons at the bottom, held by straps. DRES3 DIVERSIONS Now that the muffler collar is no well established, other modes are push ing it hard. The stole, the cape and the piece of two or even three differ ent kinds of pelts are all coming in with a rush. Vomenxllke an extta fur garment to throw on and off for matinee and motor wear. It Is not good policy to purchase an expensive garment for Just one sea son's wear, and this Idea comes with a sudden surprise to a woman's mini after she has Invested In a fur-trimmed gown or two. Only the fortun ate ones of the earth can afford a separate muff for every costume. So many suits are made up entirely minus the fur bands and collars. A stunning suit or velours de laine has a fluttering cape lined with dyed squirrel. A one-piece gown, with a hem band of skunk and seal banded, has no Jacket at all, but a shoulder cape of the two pelts combined with velvet It Is nifty, but chilly. How ever, comfort must ever give way to a dress diversion. Chamois cloth is used for winter frocks, and in green it is velvety and beautiful. This color combines well with beaver. Fitch is adorable with blue velvet, fc-'eal Is glorious on the new green-gray that is called taupe, but which isn't at all. Serpents' gray Is th correct name for it FOR HER WHO SEWS BORDER FOR SCARP This simple design should be used on medium or heavy linen, and should be worked in eyelets and ladder stitch. This design makes a very effective scarf bor der. or may be used across the end of a runner. Use mercerized cot ton No. 20. . DIRECTIONS FOR TRANS FERRIXQ Lay a piece of Impression paper, face down, upon the material. Place the newspaper pattern in position over this and. with a bard, sharp pencil, firmly trace each Una If the material Is sheer, this may be laid over the pattern and the design drawn direct on the goods as It will show through. When handled In this way impression pa per, of course, will not bs required. ot?Aio aeo-rf ;d e j$ JS. I y0u luff0 ttf0's To the right is an afternoon frock of Bordeaux velours; tho girdle and sleeve tops Ln leaf applique of taffeta to match; Jape band of er mine. Narrow bonds of bkunk and gold thread embroidery trim the chic little gown of panne velvet of nattier blue with choker of taffeta shown at the left. Women Take By One Who Sells. THE time is past when women con sider teaching and even stenog raphy as the two and only two occupations by which women may work out their salvation and their livelihood. Of the more than three score occupations by which women are making themselves seir supporting these days, the most Important and interesting is salesmanship. I say this because salesmanship re Quires no capital, but does demand a high standard of mentality and per sonality. J11S8 Edna Ferber has de picted one type of saleswoman, the woman on tho road first as a traveU lng saleswoman and later as a part ner. It was her personality along with her Insight and dogged determi nation that changed their business from an almost certain failure Into a splendid success. She was always full of enthusiasm; the more discouraging business looked the more hopeful she was. Hers is a type now well known. Some of these women are selling "on the road" either handling some article for themselves or working on part salary and part commission. Though these women are too well satisfied with their modest success to i push themselves into the limelight of publicity, they are making from $3000 to J 10,000 a year. As Adelaide Bene dict Roch says: "It is only in recent years that woman has seriously en tered the field of salesmanship. Here tofore she was satisfied to become a stenographer or to sit at a machine in VA o o o il Up Selling being producers, of getting in one the creative or profit side and away from expense had never come to her, unless perhaps as a fleeting thought That Independent spirit that desires to do things which is now so general had not been engendered. In fact. It is but a few years since women began to som factory Injuring her eyes and health. "The thought of selling goods, of Some Dance By Louise Prussing. THERE has always been a question ln tho Tninds o people as to what constitutes a good dancer. I heard it rather well put the other day by a girl friend about women. "A woman," she said, must sense what her partner is going to do." Profes sionals may all look as though their dancing were as easy as walking; that is their "Job," but every nerve is alive to each other's moves, every thought Is concentrated on unison. Men aad women who have never danced together at all can absolutely blend their steps if they "sense" them. Then, too, there are rules for men. A girl Is absolutely dependent on her partner's leading. A man can almost mold the woman with whom he is dancing into any angle, twist or turn by using his right hand to effect. But to he the best, the lightest possible kind of a dancer one must have the "old dances'' as a foundation. Our Border o As Life Work dare even to take a clerkshlpfor that wan a higr step from the protecting shelter of a family fireside. "The innate prejudice against con tact with the world which woman formerly cherished has in recent years melted as the snow before the sun. She has learned that she can maintain her self respect and still take her place in the world of busi- Suggestions parents 'bounded" a thing unknown to our time. They were light as thistle down from the time they could walk to the time they couldn't. There is a subtle touch and look about a dancer with that education hard to describe, but most finished. New York is working itself up to Its natural winter pitch now, but we find they are doing few new things; the same dances with new steps and race is their cry. And they are doing the tango. Not oh. never not the intricate tango,. but a standardized ono in waltz position. There are only four or five steps the usual corte, the double corte. or media luna, as It Is often calJed, a walk perhaps a few waltz steps and a corte and hold. That Is all done to the quietest, most luscious music, and very slow. Per haps it isn't fascinating to see '.wo people dance this as they do every turn In New York now; dance it as one person, with all the stately charm of the ArKentlnes, the rythm and swing of Jthe "Spaniards. For Scarf 0 (I o o- With Success r.ess getters. These women who go from Jobber to Jobber or from con sumer to consumer are as modest and womanly as are their sisters in the more designated kinds of work known as women's professions. "This work of salesmanship on the road no less than ln the dry goods store has done much to develop tha understanding and thought of woman. The remarkable part of this work la that women have done much to raise the standard of salesmanship on the road. They have not lost the gilt edge which is so necessary to the in nate charm and personality of wom anhood. They have not taken on the rough-shod manners and unfair ways which once was a natural part of salesmanship.. They have done much to raise the standard of this occupa tion." FASHION GOSSIP China rose Is a new color making its appearance in millinery lines. Tb shade Is not unlike the coral tones with which the summer vogues ha.e familiarized us. It is deeper la tone and of a bluer quality; very good look ing in felt and plush, especially when trimmed with beaver or seal. Kolinsky- the Russian cat Is the peltry most in demand by the fashion able dressmakers for trimming pur poses; some of .lt is pointed with sliver like a fine fox. Sealskin has come Into Us own 'again after years of oblivion, and bearer is ubiquitous. Opossom is again used, and all the foxes in sep arate pieces. VA o O o A By Lillian (Copyright 19X5 by Lillian Russell.) WHAT false gods ars followed in the search for diversion! . Flights into bacchanalian ! f f realms and excursions into forbidden gardens where poi sonous weeds thrive beneath the blushing rose may mean diversion. But what a price is p. id for It! The nature of every man and every woman calls for diversion from the routine. And it is a call that is sound ed for a good purpose. But if diver sion is sought at tho expense of phys ical and mental health, it is too costly. We are living in a pleasure-seeking age. The channels of diversion are numerous. Our puritan forefathers would blush If they traveled through some of them. In others, they would have to acknowledge that present judgment is better than that of he past when some people were so stralgnt laced that a hearty laugh was placed in the criminal category. All tastes are to be gratified in this search for diversion, and there Is bait for each. The many who exercise thelt Intelligence can be satisfied. The thoughtless and even the vicious can find what their hearts desire. Tho mistakes that are made ln yielding to the lure of diversion are many. I know a man who spends all his days in an office. At night he rivets his eyes upon books until sleep calls him to bed. Once ln a while he seeks diversion, and where to you suppose he goes? To a popular restaurant, where there are bright lights, gay music and woll-dressed and laughing people. But there are also tobacco smoke, Impure atmosphere, rich foods and cocktails. This man should go to the greens on Saturday afternoon for a game of golf. He now finds occa sional diversion, but it is not of the right sort. Yet he has plenty of com pany in his chosen course. What a host of women look only to society as their means of diversion! It is well for women to mingle togeth er. They should have time fur social Intercourse. Their teas, dinners, and dances are enjoyable. But there is no greater strain on the nerves and physi cal strength than uninterrupted par ticipation ln society. It Is wearing and eventually too much diversion of this character has a telling effect. lie happy If you can. Po not be come a grind and a drudge. Keek pleasure and happiness or you may not meet with them. There Is a time for the routine. All lives are of ne cessity mere or loss routine. Inver sion is demanded. Look for some chan n el through which you can diver your thoughts from the routine. Then should be time In every person's life for diversion. Otherwise the ability to cope with the routine steadily di minishes. There are harmful as well as help ful diversions. Do not sacrifice or Jeopardize your health merely to re move your mind from the routine. That is not necessary. Select the di version that will Improve you ln body and mind. It will prove more enjoyable and lasting than any other. The curative values of simple but enjoyable diversions are recognized. Their recuperative values are equally well known. If you play so much that it becomes routine try a little wholesome work. If you are working too much set aside a period for play. But do not be deluded by the falsity of many of the things now generally scheduled as diversions. Tour intel ligence and conscience will prove trustworthy dictators. Let them be your guides in your search for pleas ure and diversion. Life Is on 'Hong round of masque rading. It Is not always with deceit ful intentions 4hat a mask is donned. It Is natural for people to masquerade. 8ometlir.es very often, I would say the mask is used to protect or promote the 'happiness of others. But again it is a part of pure deception, backed by an ugly motive. Some of the most ad mirable and adoiable people contantly wear masks. Again there are others whose masked faces shield, or partly keep from view, despicable charactera How often do you, consciously or unconsciously, mask your face? And why do you do so? Flattery is often the mask that is assumed for a purpose. The Hps may be twisted into a smile to cover up the ugly thought. Ths eyes may lis while the truth Is burled in the throat. Dozens of masks are used effectively to cover up ugly intentions or for de ceitful purposes. The man who scowls upon his fam ily in private and smiles ln public is & contemptible masquerader. The wo man who offers a helping hand to a charitable institution while her chll dien need her attention and cars Is ln the same class. The person who uses soft words to the face and harsh words to the backs of other people can be placed ln the same category. Such masqueraders are generally poorly disguised. Their real charac ters are so evident that they cannot be covered up. But there is also an other class of masqueraders, and their little deceits are virtues. Have you not often seen the physi cal or mental sufferer constantly smile to cover up his or her own suffering? Cven when pathetic figures, they are the essence of a sunshine that pene trates to the hesrts of all about them. They are the antithesis of the chronlo grumbler. The tired wife who with a LILLIAN RUSSELL AND ANNA HELD Two world famous beauties con fide the secrets of the art as they know it to their fellow women through the columns of The Jour nal. Lillian Russell's talks extend beyond the realm of beauty and embrace all phases of mental and bodily efflciency.- Beglnning next Sunday an entire page will be devoted to her writing ln The Sunday Journal Magazine. On the same Sunday Anna Held's beauty chats will be Included on this . page. NEXT SUNDAY Russtll. rweet and welcoming word upon fett lips meets her homecoming husband in the evening is another adorabls masquerader. Her sweetness Is all the sweetur because It filters through her weariness and erases the lines care from her facs. i The trouSled person who burls hit cares in" his own heart while he helps , others dons a mask for a splendid pur pose. The heart may bt heavy, but in the face there Is DO evldenos I ' such. ':, ". The man or woman who chokas aa HI temper and apparently remains, placid and cool wsarS a mask with an effort but ln a good causa 'Wear a mask if you will, but wear It f or:v good reason. i - vi I have seen people appear on the stage when their hearts were nearly, , devoured by sorrow, and yet thsy ; made their audiences laugh. Their masquerading was at a heavy axpsnss to themselves, but thsy made Other -happy and did no harm. . - Lood about you and you' will the masqueraders ln every direction. -They all have objects ln view. Soros -of these objects are laudable, but others are despicable. And the ad mlrable masqueraders ars tha happy ones. ... Do you wear a mask? If so, with what purpose do you Join tho mighty ' host of masqueraders? .' Do not become muscle-bound. Orsos and poise are dependent upon supple ness. You cannot be graceful unless your muscles are flexible. Keep them ln such shape that each will promoto grace. Otherwise you will be awk ward. If you walk a little ln a careless " sort of a way only part of your mus cles are brought Into use. If you en- gage ln a certain line of pleasure or -work ten chances to one only part of your muscles are required. That is the reason general exercise Is needed by practically every woman. - ' In the course of tha ordinary day many women do not get any exercise worthy the name Others get a little. -Very few get enough. A vast major lty possess muscles whloh have been , Inactive for years. Take, for instance, the girl who sits U day at a manl- cure table, or a typewriter. If she If , net careful to walk considerably, to -and from her office, aha is liable to become what is called "hippy,", and will develop hnrj lilp muscles that will take much exercising ind mil ' Kaglng to restore to a normal condl- ; tion. The muscles that are not used soon., erase to perform their functions -racefully. They fall to develop. Of i en they become so set that It takes A a special effort to bring them Into service. They have to be forced into i action. Oraceful movements are lm- . pis.slble under such conditions. Walking Is a good exercise and will, bring many muscles Into action, pro-, vlded you walk In the right way, Ton' ills and golf may provide exercise for all the muscles Indian clubs ana dumb-bells may develop the arms and lusts and not affect the lower 0S tremltles unless the exercises are well arranged. Every woman needs exer dse which will develop-all her muscles and keep them In a flexible condition. Too much exercise may also operate , against grace. Athletes have to guard -against overtraining and knotty mu . cles. But most women are not safTI- ; rlenlly Inclined toward physical exer tlon to over train. t Evening Drew for Winter. With polonaise, bustle and drapery, the evening dress of future winter af fairs bids fair to add a varied offset to costume where last year tho beoe dressed throne:, whether young or old,' was, to say the least, tiresome. Be sides, it was most difficult to distin guish at a distance whether it was mother, daughter or granddaughter. SAGE TEA TURNS If Mixed With Sulphur It Dark ens So Evenly That It Can. not Be Discovered. ,k That beautiful, even shad of ArX glossy hair can only be had by brswtnsj a mixture of Sage Tea and.' Sulphur. . Tour hair la your charm.- It makes or : mars the face. When it fades, turns gray, streaked and looks dry, wispy and r scraggy, Just an application or two Of Sage and Sulphur enhances its appear ance a hundredfold. , ' - ' Don't bother to prepare tho .tonic; you can get from any drug store a 0 oent bottle of "Wyeth's Sage and Hul ?hur Compound," ready, to use. - This can always bs depended upon tc bring back the natural color, thickness and lustre of your hair and remove dan druff, stop scalp itching and falling hair. A-'j'f'ji Everybody uses "Wyeth's" Sags and , Sulphur because It darkens so natural ly and evenly that nobody can tell It has been applied. Tou simply dampen a sponge or soft brush ijrtth" t and draw this through ths balr, taktng1 ni small strand at a time; by morning th gray hair has disappeared, and aftei another application It becomes beautk fully dark and appears glossy, lustrous and abundant. ' (Adv.) ' GRAY HAIR DAI J , , -. "' 1 s.