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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 21, 1915)
.7-., 7 x'7 V ; v I - ' SKn;s. Nature Is Thorough In Her Burnt Orange Has Sudden Vogue But Beware the Dancing Frock That Is Flame Colored Work, But You Can He Her, If You Will, By Know ing How fHE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, . SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER 21. 1915. 1 'fe ' By Af me. ON tl N the firing line of fashion there a decided lull. We have intrenched ourselv-.a our new dude, and find tne uniform becomlnz. It has Been a lively and interesting campaign. Chief among the novelties is the sudden passion for red evening gowns, the moat desirable shades being gera nium, cherry and the deep velvety begonia tints. We consider the red dress to be nothing less than a sar torial crime, but that fact is not likely to interfere to any great ex tent with its popularity. If one can hate a gown quickly, the process is particularly speedy when the gown is red. One wearing and the reflection of your mirror is stamped upon your mind. A second wearing , and the flame-colored thing slrzles and curls the edges of your soul. There Is no commort in It. Compare the cherry fabric with any of the pastel tones, the elusive prim rose tints, the mellow blend of pink and the blue that isn't any color at all, not even lavender, and upon which your eyes and spirits both may rest content! Only occasionally there is a genuine interest in a vivid color, and the interest dies quickly like a sudden fancy, of youth. Anther color that threatens is burnt orange, but there is something rich and splendid about that, and it we can accept. Combined with serpent gray, giving companion snip to the new taupse-green, or apt beside the new blackberry. burnt orange cannot help but inspire respect. But it is of that clans of colors which must be used sparingly. It is like fine la-e and other luxuries mot beautiful and compelling when least abundant. If anything short Hklrt. It With silk is going to kill the Im very cold weather, hosiery, hand - turned kid. and undcr-fluf f ies booties of tliln that arc skimpy affairs or crepe ae chine and val lace, the Dear Creature In going to be most decidedly chilly. We still Insist, In spite of all living evidences that scamper about the boulevards, that the extremely short skirt Is not for street wear, and thut ically fashionable women do not wear i. Kor the darn ing frock, yes, and the sports gown, but not for the trottenr and the Ullleur. which lire one and the same garment. There Is practically no quality of tlie whimsical or the bizarre in fash ions. The world Is in somber, sober mood; the modes are of a sober world. Styles have never been no beautiful a reflection of artistic education. They have form, color and meaning. They are comfortable. They give widest latitude for Individual touches. The Eton Jacket, suitable for spring and autumn wear, is showing up strong on velvet sultB. Hand embroidery is used extensively on panecla and chiffon velvet, and ths designs are usually done in metal threads. Bronze on tete de negre vel vet Is beautiful. Dull gold on cathe dral purple Is good. Hilver on sap phire la lovely enough to make you give the last cent to the dressmaker. The fuchu of tulle Is among the luxuries, and gives cachet and ele gance to one-piece gowns of faille or velvet. Little, puffed chokers of crisp white materials arc good. The Dresden shepherdess, and the period of French art in which she ex isted, is furnishing lnspiitalon. for many evening gowns which gives us a style of frock much .more modest than those of .several seasons past. The W'atteau plait is revived, also tho stunning brocades with large splashy flowers, the elbow sleeves, with pointed, wing-shaped frill of lace, and the square cut neck. The bustle-like draped tablle in the back and the side panniers, are decidedly of this mode. Military styles are absolutely taboo. Mannish effects are permissible only in motoring toggery. This is most decidedly the year in which woman is more, womanish than ever. Her loveliness is accentuated, yet she does not appear at her weak oat, but rather at her strongest. All the fuss about the new ornamentations la graceful as well as stunning, and detracts not one bit from dignity or charm. And by the way, the exces sively low cut frock la not of the mo ment. Women are rejecting many blaarre effects which belong to the Stage and to the stage only. The watchword of fashion is -le- nc Oood taste, rather than strik ing effect, is the directing influence. Brightly rouged cheeks and lips ?.te verv basse. At bit of carmine, yt.s, but much is not in keeping with the nraaent comfortable, sane, delightful period of artistic fashions. and conservative The Moyen age type of gown was so pretty and graceful that it retires with great reluctance. Every now and then wo observe long-waisted gowns amonsr the newest models. A white FR.EE to ASTHMA SUFFERERS A Kw Rome Curs That Anyone Can Tse Without Duoomiort or ioss or Tims We have a new metnoa tnat cures Asthma, and we want you to try it at our expense. No matter whether your case is or long-sianaing or recent de' VKiopmeni, wriemer 11 is present as occasional or chroniq Asthma, you should sena lor a tree trial 01 our method. No matter in what climate you live, no matter what your age or occupation, if you are troubled with asthma, our method should relieve you promptly. We especially want to send it to those apparenUy hopeless cases, where all forms of inhalers, douches, opium preparations, fumes, "patent smokes,'' etc, have failed. We want to show everyone at our own expense, that this new method is designed to end all dif ficult breathing, all wheeling, and all thfcse terrible paroxysms at once and tor all time. This free offer Is, too important to neglect a single day. Writs now and begin the method at once, bend no money. Simply mail coupon below. Vo It Today. nia ASTHMA COTJPOH FRONTIER ASTHMA CO., Room 29 M. Niagara and Hudson Sts.. Buffalo. N T . Send free trial of your method to: (Adv.) Qui Vive. satin dancing frock has the elongated bodice of this material, while the skin has an overdrape of white tulle, which is also used to form the long, square cut angel sleeves. Finishing the lower line of the bodice is a sash of five-inch sliver ribbon, while another girdle comes from the upper part of the back corsage, looping in front. ' The umbrella loops used for back and side draperies are reflections of the fashions of SO- years ago . A regal blue velvet gown for eve ning, designed by Worth and shown at hia opening, has the skirt caught up at the sides with these deep flapping loops that are exactly like the folds of the silk of a closed umbrella and wihlch form attractive little aide pouches to the robe. The only deco ration on the costume is an enormous wing motif in brilliant blue sequin., which is placed at the waist line, ex tends nearly to the shoulders of the very low decollete, and finishes with a fall of fringe made of crystal beado. The Cossack coat is having a vogue for fair. On her of the willowy form, it is a dream. A beauteous model of this type is of white broadcloth. The waist portion is straight up and down, with snug tight-fitting sleeves. The skirt part is so full that it falls In an endless number of deep ripples. Around the hem is a wide border of black as trakhan, which is also used for an enormously high collar, the tabs of which cross in front of the bodice and fasten to the back over the hips. The hat to be worn with this coat is a tiny round turban of white broadcloth with a band of black astrakhan. The harem trousers jf lace and ninon destined to be seen with rest Kowns have up to now had no rival to fea.r. The foe and such a. fascinating one has, however, arrived, and it is the ruffled stocking. It is of silk, with frills superimposed one on the other, which encircles the leg just above the ankle. They are stiffenei at the edges and frequently outlined with black velvet. The chiseled shoe of the eighteenth century, by the aid of the new hose, has been successfully imitated. Kor Instance, black ihoes would have placed on them quaint designs In leather of a bright color: this leather matches the stockings. d thut it appears as though the leather had been pierced. A simple little evening frock for the little 'flapper" is made of white wash ing silk of a good substantial quality, which can be cleaned any number of limes without losing any of Us original charm. The very full skirt, which is closely gathered Into three piping cords at the waist, Is finished round the bottom with a deep hem, bordered with a line of hemstitching. In the case of a young girl, whose figure may chance to err upon the substantial side, the gatherings and pipings at the waist should be done awav with alto gether, and a swathed belt of white satin ribbon arranged in their nlace. The square cut decolletage lends a distinctive air of girlish simplicity to the bodice. It is outlined with hem stitching and partly filled in both hack and front with a broad band of silver einbroldery. The sleeves are composed of the same white silk and made to fit closely to the arm. coming down in long points below the wrists, where they are finished with lines of hem stitching. Fashions in sleeves are ever under discussion. There are signs on the horizon that the long sleeves which during the last few months have ac companied evening dress will be cur tailed. Klhow sleeves of lace are com irg to the fore, while in the more elab orate creations on the right shoulder is seen a diamante strap, while the left shoulder is draped with chiffon. Fashion is not so Inconsistent a being as she seems, and there is generally a reason for her commands. Tulle and mousseline de soie have superseded chiffon. Plain and fancy rets, lace, satin, taffeta, faille and vel vets enter into the loveliest debutante 2wns. Beaded lace, jet laces and garnitures. silveT 1 paillettes, with here and there a touch of fur, number among the modish embellishments. Twilight colors in alluring tints claim first at tention. Stunning costumes are of cloth and el vet, satin, of faille and velvet, or velvet, cloth and fur and fur in band ings and trimmings everywhere. in costumes the redlngote is shorter than for dresses or separate garnients. A regal costume is designed In Rus sian green velvet, self-matching mous seline, silver lace and luxurious bands of black fur. For present wear a redlngote cos tume Is of mohair in gray with hand embroidery introduced in pointed panel effects in two shades of gray," blue and black. Braiding also serves HOSIERY DESIGN The short dress demands beauti ful stockings and neat shoes. Quite expensive are embroidered hose when purchased. To embroider one's own hose will reduce the ex pense. As the colors are black and white or all black and all white In most Instances, the effect of com binations can be charmingly de veloped. Transfer your pattern and while working it slip a piece of card board inside the stocking instead of using the small hoops. Tou can knot your floss if the floss is quite small and frequently finish the de sign on the right side by weaving the thread under a design or fin ishing it with a miniature French knot which, really, is quite pretty on hosiery., even when lavishly dis played. While colors, sometimes extreme, are used: nevertheless good taste dictates black or white hose. As has so often been advised, wash black hose before wearing them. HOW TO TRANSFER THIS DESIGN Put acme soap in a pint of hot water; stir and remove the soap. Saturate the design With mixture, then remove excess moisture by partially drying design. Place ma terial on a hard, flat surface and lay the design, face down, upon the material. With th bowl of a tablespoon rub until design Is en tirely transferred. . , rim. if KfcEM3mv f i as i ti mm. m mmsr mmmmmm ks wmmmmmwmwr limi in i i i i ma ti mstiM mm mmim Hmmw : 1 s jm w m At the lft i shown afternoon skunk fur.. Xote the full double ruching of begonia attractively as a trimming in set mot ifs, scrolls or deep border effects. A source of annoyance on wet days is that with the ordinary umbrella the left side is not so well protected from the rain as the right. The rea son of this is, of course, that the um brella is held in the right hand. A new umbrella has recently made its f'ebut which, instead of being round, is a little wider on one side. As will be readily i.nderstood, by this means both shoulders are equally well protected. They are not In the least clumsy de the fact that the circle is not fpite true. There is a great deal of speculation as to vhether the high crowned hat vlll take this season. It looks well only when worn with the new fash lcnable dress that has a fitted body or coat and the flaring coat or skirt hem. With more conservative styles dancing frock of green metalized three - piece sleeve. At the right is colored paneola which also is used the turban or the wide brimmed hat looks better. The wide brimmed hat seems to be also made to be worn more with the elaborate afternoon or eve ning dress than with the coat suit. The great number of shades of the cardinal colors that the fabric weav ers are giving i's means that matching Is no longer the dreadful matter that it used to be. The putting together of perfect hues is one of the most im portant details of designing, and dress making. An off-color is as fatal to sartorial perfection as loud speech is to a woman's charm. . When two fabrics are used in a gown, such as broadcloth and taffeta, taffeta and Georgette crepe, velour and satin, it is most essential that the match be correct. Otherwise, dis tinct lines appear and that is nearly always bad. The colors of a costume, and the lines also, must' melt one into I the other, as in an oil painting. The Decoration In gauze, corsage and cross bands of green charmense; flounce-trlm of an ivory-white silkajour fluff frock which is decorated with a wide, for girdle tie and streamers. harsh line is a wound to the eye of the aesthetic critic. Ruffles care not whether they are many or 'few, nor where they abide. A cunning one piece frock is of pan ecla in that new shade which is nei ther purple or claret, but a red-blue ol deep, rich tone. There is front panel, and this bears three little cross wise groups of ruffles, the material ol which is soie de grandeur. The three lower ruffles are five inches each, the next group four, and the top tiroup three. They make merely a sug gestion of trim, and give the skirt it self the appearance of a tablier. The corsage has a decorative effect in soutache placed below the armscye and extendinr to the waist line. The skirt and bodice are attached with a cord of panecla. The collar Is the high-low effect in silver lace, with high band to keep the frill in place. A silver buckle holds the lower bod Embroidery For Ladies Hosiery s e 1 ice at the ceinture line ami a tiny bowknot in silver threat gives fin ish to the upper portion of front piece. A reseda green velvet skirt is as full end bouncing as a parachute. It Is mounted on a straight line basuo of green chiffon, and the basque is em broidered with silver thread. The t-leeves are long and of chiffon, and the bodice is cut square at the neck and ig finished with little turned over I'aripw collars front, hack and sides. A rector in South London was visit ing one of his poorer parishioners, an old woman, afflicted with deafness. She expressed her great regret at not being able to hear his sermons. De siring to be sympathetic and to say something consoling, he replied, with unnecessary self-depreciation : "You don't miss much." "So they tell me," was the. disconcerting reply. ....... -a By Lillian (Copyright. 1813. bv Lillian Russell.) D ID you ever examine the skin of your nand with the aid of a microscope" If not. do bo at once, thermatology is an inter esting study. Every woman should have an Intimate acquaintance with tle akin of her body. This knowledge will be of inestimable value in assisting nature to keep it in good condition. If your glass is powerful enough it will reveal the delicate construction of the skin. The glass may show the skin in a condition not sq pretty as it appears to the naked eye. You may be surprised at its scaly appearance and the moisture and oily substance it carries, as well as by the dimensions of the pores and hair follicles. You may also discover & number of surprising things in a surface which, to the naked eye, seems so velvety. When you make the examination you will notice how nature is continually struggling in a reconstruction pro cess, if you gather some information on this subject you will be fully re paid for your study. This reconstruction process is gotVig on all the time in all forms of animal life. It is also in evidence in the veg etable kingdom. The microscope will show you just how nature Is placing new akin on your hand. A similar pro Cess ig in progress all over the body. In the lower forms of animal life the I rocess is more pronounced and easily dlrcernible to the naked eye. You have seen the insect and the reptile shed their skin, as it is called. It is not a vtry pleasant comparison. tut something of this sort is continu ally going on all over your body. You are always shedding your sltln. New skin Is coming to take its place. This is what gives the akin th scaly ap pearance under the microscope. Nature is very thorough In her work. While the skin Is changing it is moist ened, oiled and nourished by the nat- I ural oils of the body, if the body is normal in health. If you expose the skin to Irritating soaps and to the winds after the nat ural protectors are removed you can not expect nature to produce a soft and velvety surface. You have inter fered with her work and you must pay the penalty. Irritating lotions, which contain pot ash, ammonia or acids of any kind, or bichloride of mercury, will fairly eat eff the outer cuticle and deter nature in her course. The pores of the skin can so easily be clogged up by Impure creams, which overreed the riesn and fill the pores viith grease and dust, forming into what is called blackheads. The ordinary face powder contains gredients vhich clog the pores and prevent respiration, or breathing of the skin. When the pores become clogged by bad creams and powders and all nat ural respiration is stopped there can be no result but irritating eruptions, red and blotchy patches, acne and struma. instead of working against nature. give her a chance. Help her along by adding to the skin food she supplies only the purest oils such as almond or olive. Be sure your creams are made of the purest Ingredients. There is no economy In cheap skin beauti- f ers. He sure your powder is of the best quality, and that it is of a nature hich does not clog the pores of the skin and prevent the sir from reach ing it. Do not irritate the skin. Sooth it, and nature, through the process of re construction, will give the whole body a smooth an.1 velvety covering. Nature is thorough in her work, but if you wrench or abuse the skin ma chinery you cannot expect a finely finished product. It is a mistake to assume that exer cises merely promote physical develop ment. They have a broader effect. When they lead you into sports and games they actually develop your sense of beauty and honesty, construct new Ideals and broaden and strengthen the mind. One of the nation's leading physi cians and the head of a large state's health department says: "In these days of advanced health measures children should be taught to take plenty of out door physical exercise but it should not bj of a brutal character. Their sports should tend to cultivate control, temperate thoughts and kindness." . Tliis Is the right view of the subject. Even the ordinary calisthenics and H.Sk4i Russell. r gymnastics should be undertakeif witlij ' an object of more than physical devsU v opment. But all physios! cultur.'auj3 thorlttes are demanding sxsrelssi which will prove interesting and , oo-" , upy the mind, while the musoles ar j In play. That la the reason mors tn. the ordinary apparatus, dumb bells ana Indian clubs, are being brought Intl. use in the gymnasium. . Basketball, handball and other Ilk' games provide excellent pnysicai ss- rcl whlU at tha limn tlms tht! occupy the mind snd encourags units action by the brain and body. Outaoof sports can be placed in the same cats-' gory. ' ' ' There la nothing that sxpands ln: sense of fairness mors than sports ;v L.n fairness ana cheating ars nsvtr ion. erated. Kven contestants must Show the greatest courtesy to each othsri and thav davalnn atrona evnaoatnlsa Contests and games Improve the men-" t tat faculties and quicken tha action sr. the brain and reasoning powers. , 'JL One of ur noted physicians saysi'y To maintain the highest degree at V physical health, it must be acoom- pan led by a healthy brain that can ' work out its own problems In earlj,: intercourse with trie rest oT mankind., nd cooperate for the preservation Of,' its own species. .; v ..n Many men who are strictly honorable r in business, in the literal sense of th word, would never for a moment chsat. , at a game of cards, nor In athletU sports, when they consider it fair play--to drive a bargain with a client or OMj; ' tomer for a slight percentage of pfo-flt, They would stand in honor bound-ti;.. absolute fairness In a gams of tennii or golf. ' "T Perhaps In no other line of -educa--. , tlon Is honor so cultivated as in ath letics. Therefore look upon exerclM ' as something big and important. II " will measure up to such standards. 11 ; will lead to beauty and strength 01 body and mind. Exercise In any form Is a blessing,' but when it leads to both physical ana mental cultivation it carries double' value. " When you are hiding your llttls Ja: or cream, box or powder ana Dottis 01 hair tonic from your men folks" do you -do it because you fear you will appeal-i weak or lacking In sense in their eye; if they were to be let into your ssorsl' ' of beauty? Disabuse your mind of such unnecessary precautions. Stand . forth In the pride of knowing that' you are doing for yourself something fo- the betterment of the raos In sp pearlng at your best at all tiroes. Do you still live in ths belief otrriair1 being impervious to flattery? Io you think that men do not give a thought' to their appearance and have a con'-' tmpt for anyone who doss? Oh, nV The day Is past when men cars noughi ' for the effect they produce upon thf world physically. . it I had tea a few days ago. and was more than entertained by three rues who sat behind me st snother tablsv Hair tonTc was thslr first toiyto'ai" conversation. One had derived som satisfactory result from a manga turs. which he had rubbed into his . scats three or four times each wsek. X though of Dsve Warfleld's old saying, . What is good enough for a fins dog is good enough for me." My enters tsir.er was enthusiastic Over the dog lotion, and recommended it to his tw companions, one of whom was appar . tntly a married man. l' "How could I hide it from my wifst thj latter asked. She is perfectly foxf and I wouldn't like her to know thST I used mange cure, and one with suetf an odor at any rate. Then he ex tolled tee virtues of another hair tanle - hia wife had been using. , Yl(rouf brushing was sdvlsed for, the hair le enhance its' growth and beauty. Btil-' liantlne was recommended by one ts" the others to make the hair look shlnx and healthy. ' I rather delighted in tha advsnt, and the freedom with which these men dir cussed the matter. Showing at' UssI that they believed in dispelling wrinkles and facial blemishes in an possible way, and In delaying tha rav ages of age and dissipation. X felt in clined to tell them that If they cast aside their whiskey which stood promt nently on the table, drank water, even the feminine weakness, tea, and dismissed their motors and footed' It home, tbey Would do more toward de laying baldness and wrinkles then they -could possibly be aware of. - - - ToPrevei Are most successful because tbey r move dandruff, allay itching and irrita tion, keep the scalp deu, and promoU healthy, hair growing eosditionsv, ' Samples Free by IIcll Oetlflra Soaa Sa4 Ollssl mt liberal asapta H sm smBsS ens SS-w-kMls Aasreai ewerd "OiA-m. Xsa4. 1..:ssv And Ointment
