.7-.,
7
x'7
V ; v I -
' SKn;s.
Nature Is Thorough In Her
Burnt Orange Has Sudden
Vogue But Beware the
Dancing Frock That Is
Flame Colored
Work, But You Can He
Her, If You Will, By Know
ing How
fHE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, . SUNDAY MORNING, NOVEMBER 21. 1915.
1 'fe
' By Af me.
ON tl
N the firing line of fashion there
a decided lull.
We have intrenched ourselv-.a
our new dude, and find tne
uniform becomlnz. It has Been
a lively and interesting campaign.
Chief among the novelties is the
sudden passion for red evening gowns,
the moat desirable shades being gera
nium, cherry and the deep velvety
begonia tints. We consider the red
dress to be nothing less than a sar
torial crime, but that fact is not
likely to interfere to any great ex
tent with its popularity. If one can
hate a gown quickly, the process is
particularly speedy when the gown is
red. One wearing and the reflection
of your mirror is stamped upon your
mind. A second wearing , and the
flame-colored thing slrzles and curls
the edges of your soul. There Is no
commort in It.
Compare the cherry fabric with any
of the pastel tones, the elusive prim
rose tints, the mellow blend of pink
and the blue that isn't any color at
all, not even lavender, and upon which
your eyes and spirits both may rest
content! Only occasionally there is a
genuine interest in a vivid color, and
the interest dies quickly like a sudden
fancy, of youth. Anther color that
threatens is burnt orange, but there is
something rich and splendid about
that, and it we can accept. Combined
with serpent gray, giving companion
snip to the new taupse-green, or apt
beside the new blackberry. burnt
orange cannot help but inspire respect.
But it is of that clans of colors which
must be used sparingly. It is like
fine la-e and other luxuries mot
beautiful and compelling when least
abundant.
If anything
short Hklrt. It
With silk
is going to kill the
Im very cold weather,
hosiery, hand - turned
kid. and undcr-fluf f ies
booties of tliln
that arc skimpy affairs or crepe ae
chine and val lace, the Dear Creature
In going to be most decidedly chilly.
We still Insist, In spite of all living
evidences that scamper about the
boulevards, that the extremely short
skirt Is not for street wear, and thut
ically fashionable women do not wear
i. Kor the darn ing frock, yes, and the
sports gown, but not for the trottenr
and the Ullleur. which lire one and
the same garment.
There Is practically no quality of
tlie whimsical or the bizarre in fash
ions. The world Is in somber, sober
mood; the modes are of a sober world.
Styles have never been no beautiful a
reflection of artistic education. They
have form, color and meaning. They
are comfortable. They give widest
latitude for Individual touches.
The Eton Jacket, suitable for spring
and autumn wear, is showing up
strong on velvet sultB.
Hand embroidery is used extensively
on panecla and chiffon velvet, and ths
designs are usually done in metal
threads. Bronze on tete de negre vel
vet Is beautiful. Dull gold on cathe
dral purple Is good. Hilver on sap
phire la lovely enough to make you
give the last cent to the dressmaker.
The fuchu of tulle Is among the
luxuries, and gives cachet and ele
gance to one-piece gowns of faille or
velvet.
Little, puffed chokers of crisp white
materials arc good.
The Dresden shepherdess, and the
period of French art in which she ex
isted, is furnishing lnspiitalon. for
many evening gowns which gives us
a style of frock much .more modest
than those of .several seasons past.
The W'atteau plait is revived, also tho
stunning brocades with large splashy
flowers, the elbow sleeves, with
pointed, wing-shaped frill of lace, and
the square cut neck. The bustle-like
draped tablle in the back and the side
panniers, are decidedly of this mode.
Military styles are absolutely taboo.
Mannish effects are permissible only
in motoring toggery.
This is most decidedly the year in
which woman is more, womanish than
ever. Her loveliness is accentuated,
yet she does not appear at her weak
oat, but rather at her strongest. All
the fuss about the new ornamentations
la graceful as well as stunning, and
detracts not one bit from dignity or
charm. And by the way, the exces
sively low cut frock la not of the mo
ment. Women are rejecting many
blaarre effects which belong to the
Stage and to the stage only.
The watchword of fashion is -le-
nc Oood taste, rather than strik
ing effect, is the directing influence.
Brightly rouged cheeks and lips ?.te
verv basse. At bit of carmine, yt.s,
but much is not in keeping with the
nraaent comfortable, sane, delightful
period of artistic
fashions.
and conservative
The Moyen age type of gown was
so pretty and graceful that it retires
with great reluctance. Every now and
then wo observe long-waisted gowns
amonsr the newest models. A white
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Qui Vive.
satin dancing frock has the elongated
bodice of this material, while the skin
has an overdrape of white tulle, which
is also used to form the long, square
cut angel sleeves. Finishing the lower
line of the bodice is a sash of five-inch
sliver ribbon, while another girdle
comes from the upper part of the
back corsage, looping in front.
'
The umbrella loops used for back
and side draperies are reflections of
the fashions of SO- years ago .
A regal blue velvet gown for eve
ning, designed by Worth and shown at
hia opening, has the skirt caught up
at the sides with these deep flapping
loops that are exactly like the folds
of the silk of a closed umbrella and
wihlch form attractive little aide
pouches to the robe. The only deco
ration on the costume is an enormous
wing motif in brilliant blue sequin.,
which is placed at the waist line, ex
tends nearly to the shoulders of the
very low decollete, and finishes with
a fall of fringe made of crystal beado.
The Cossack coat is having a vogue
for fair. On her of the willowy form,
it is a dream.
A beauteous model of this type is of
white broadcloth. The waist portion
is straight up and down, with snug
tight-fitting sleeves. The skirt part is
so full that it falls In an endless
number of deep ripples. Around the
hem is a wide border of black as
trakhan, which is also used for an
enormously high collar, the tabs of
which cross in front of the bodice and
fasten to the back over the hips. The
hat to be worn with this coat is a tiny
round turban of white broadcloth with
a band of black astrakhan.
The harem trousers jf lace and
ninon destined to be seen with rest
Kowns have up to now had no rival to
fea.r. The foe and such a. fascinating
one has, however, arrived, and it is
the ruffled stocking. It is of silk,
with frills superimposed one on the
other, which encircles the leg just
above the ankle. They are stiffenei
at the edges and frequently outlined
with black velvet. The chiseled shoe
of the eighteenth century, by the aid
of the new hose, has been successfully
imitated. Kor Instance, black ihoes
would have placed on them quaint
designs In leather of a bright color:
this leather matches the stockings. d
thut it appears as though the leather
had been pierced.
A simple little evening frock for the
little 'flapper" is made of white wash
ing silk of a good substantial quality,
which can be cleaned any number of
limes without losing any of Us original
charm. The very full skirt, which is
closely gathered Into three piping
cords at the waist, Is finished round
the bottom with a deep hem, bordered
with a line of hemstitching. In the
case of a young girl, whose figure may
chance to err upon the substantial
side, the gatherings and pipings at the
waist should be done awav with alto
gether, and a swathed belt of white
satin ribbon arranged in their nlace.
The square cut decolletage lends a
distinctive air of girlish simplicity to
the bodice. It is outlined with hem
stitching and partly filled in both hack
and front with a broad band of silver
einbroldery. The sleeves are composed
of the same white silk and made to
fit closely to the arm. coming down in
long points below the wrists, where
they are finished with lines of hem
stitching.
Fashions in sleeves are ever under
discussion. There are signs on the
horizon that the long sleeves which
during the last few months have ac
companied evening dress will be cur
tailed. Klhow sleeves of lace are com
irg to the fore, while in the more elab
orate creations on the right shoulder
is seen a diamante strap, while the
left shoulder is draped with chiffon.
Fashion is not so Inconsistent a being
as she seems, and there is generally a
reason for her commands.
Tulle and mousseline de soie have
superseded chiffon. Plain and fancy
rets, lace, satin, taffeta, faille and vel
vets enter into the loveliest debutante
2wns.
Beaded
lace, jet
laces and garnitures. silveT 1
paillettes, with here and
there a touch of fur, number among
the modish embellishments. Twilight
colors in alluring tints claim first at
tention. Stunning costumes are of cloth and
el vet, satin, of faille and velvet, or
velvet, cloth and fur and fur in band
ings and trimmings everywhere.
in costumes the redlngote is shorter
than for dresses or separate garnients.
A regal costume is designed In Rus
sian green velvet, self-matching mous
seline, silver lace and luxurious bands
of black fur.
For present wear a redlngote cos
tume Is of mohair in gray with hand
embroidery introduced in pointed
panel effects in two shades of gray,"
blue and black. Braiding also serves
HOSIERY DESIGN
The short dress demands beauti
ful stockings and neat shoes. Quite
expensive are embroidered hose
when purchased. To embroider
one's own hose will reduce the ex
pense. As the colors are black and
white or all black and all white In
most Instances, the effect of com
binations can be charmingly de
veloped. Transfer your pattern and while
working it slip a piece of card
board inside the stocking instead
of using the small hoops. Tou can
knot your floss if the floss is quite
small and frequently finish the de
sign on the right side by weaving
the thread under a design or fin
ishing it with a miniature French
knot which, really, is quite pretty
on hosiery., even when lavishly dis
played. While colors, sometimes extreme,
are used: nevertheless good taste
dictates black or white hose. As
has so often been advised, wash
black hose before wearing them.
HOW TO TRANSFER THIS
DESIGN
Put acme soap in a pint of hot
water; stir and remove the soap.
Saturate the design With mixture,
then remove excess moisture by
partially drying design. Place ma
terial on a hard, flat surface and
lay the design, face down, upon
the material. With th bowl of a
tablespoon rub until design Is en
tirely transferred. . ,
rim. if KfcEM3mv f i as i ti mm. m mmsr mmmmmm
ks wmmmmmwmwr limi in i i i i ma ti mstiM mm
mmim Hmmw : 1 s jm w m
At the lft i shown afternoon
skunk fur.. Xote the full
double ruching of begonia
attractively as a trimming in set mot
ifs, scrolls or deep border effects.
A source of annoyance on wet days
is that with the ordinary umbrella
the left side is not so well protected
from the rain as the right. The rea
son of this is, of course, that the um
brella is held in the right hand. A
new umbrella has recently made its
f'ebut which, instead of being round, is
a little wider on one side. As will be
readily i.nderstood, by this means both
shoulders are equally well protected.
They
are not In the least clumsy de
the fact that the circle is not
fpite
true.
There is a great deal of speculation
as to vhether the high crowned hat
vlll take this season. It looks well
only when worn with the new fash
lcnable dress that has a fitted body
or coat and the flaring coat or skirt
hem. With more conservative styles
dancing frock of green metalized
three - piece sleeve. At the right is
colored paneola which also is used
the turban or the wide brimmed hat
looks better. The wide brimmed hat
seems to be also made to be worn more
with the elaborate afternoon or eve
ning dress than with the coat suit.
The great number of shades of the
cardinal colors that the fabric weav
ers are giving i's means that matching
Is no longer the dreadful matter that
it used to be. The putting together of
perfect hues is one of the most im
portant details of designing, and dress
making. An off-color is as fatal to
sartorial perfection as loud speech is
to a woman's charm.
. When two fabrics are used in a
gown, such as broadcloth and taffeta,
taffeta and Georgette crepe, velour
and satin, it is most essential that the
match be correct. Otherwise, dis
tinct lines appear and that is nearly
always bad. The colors of a costume,
and the lines also, must' melt one into
I the other, as in an oil painting. The
Decoration In
gauze, corsage and cross bands of green charmense; flounce-trlm of
an ivory-white silkajour fluff frock which is decorated with a wide,
for girdle tie and streamers.
harsh line is a wound to the eye of the
aesthetic critic.
Ruffles care not whether they are
many or 'few, nor where they abide.
A cunning one piece frock is of pan
ecla in that new shade which is nei
ther purple or claret, but a red-blue
ol deep, rich tone. There is front
panel, and this bears three little cross
wise groups of ruffles, the material
ol which is soie de grandeur. The
three lower ruffles are five inches
each, the next group four, and the top
tiroup three. They make merely a sug
gestion of trim, and give the skirt it
self the appearance of a tablier.
The corsage has a decorative effect
in soutache placed below the armscye
and extendinr to the waist line. The
skirt and bodice are attached with a
cord of panecla. The collar Is the
high-low effect in silver lace, with
high band to keep the frill in place.
A silver buckle holds the lower bod
Embroidery For Ladies Hosiery
s e
1
ice at the ceinture line ami a tiny
bowknot in silver threat gives fin
ish to the upper portion of front piece.
A reseda green velvet skirt is as full
end bouncing as a parachute. It Is
mounted on a straight line basuo of
green chiffon, and the basque is em
broidered with silver thread. The
t-leeves are long and of chiffon, and
the bodice is cut square at the neck
and ig finished with little turned over
I'aripw collars front, hack and sides.
A rector in South London was visit
ing one of his poorer parishioners, an
old woman, afflicted with deafness.
She expressed her great regret at not
being able to hear his sermons. De
siring to be sympathetic and to say
something consoling, he replied, with
unnecessary self-depreciation : "You
don't miss much." "So they tell me,"
was the. disconcerting reply.
....... -a
By Lillian
(Copyright. 1813. bv Lillian Russell.)
D
ID you ever examine the skin of
your nand with the aid of a
microscope" If not. do bo at
once, thermatology is an inter
esting study. Every woman
should have an Intimate acquaintance
with tle akin of her body. This
knowledge will be of inestimable value
in assisting nature to keep it in good
condition.
If your glass is powerful enough it
will reveal the delicate construction of
the skin. The glass may show the
skin in a condition not sq pretty as it
appears to the naked eye. You may
be surprised at its scaly appearance
and the moisture and oily substance it
carries, as well as by the dimensions
of the pores and hair follicles.
You may also discover & number of
surprising things in a surface which,
to the naked eye, seems so velvety.
When you make the examination you
will notice how nature is continually
struggling in a reconstruction pro
cess, if you gather some information
on this subject you will be fully re
paid for your study.
This reconstruction process is gotVig
on all the time in all forms of animal
life. It is also in evidence in the veg
etable kingdom. The microscope will
show you just how nature Is placing
new akin on your hand. A similar pro
Cess ig in progress all over the body.
In the lower forms of animal life the
I rocess is more pronounced and easily
dlrcernible to the naked eye.
You have seen the insect and the
reptile shed their skin, as it is called.
It is not a vtry pleasant comparison.
tut something of this sort is continu
ally going on all over your body. You
are always shedding your sltln. New
skin Is coming to take its place. This
is what gives the akin th scaly ap
pearance under the microscope.
Nature is very thorough In her work.
While the skin Is changing it is moist
ened, oiled and nourished by the nat-
I ural oils of the body, if the body is
normal in health.
If you expose the skin to Irritating
soaps and to the winds after the nat
ural protectors are removed you can
not expect nature to produce a soft
and velvety surface. You have inter
fered with her work and you must pay
the penalty.
Irritating lotions, which contain pot
ash, ammonia or acids of any kind, or
bichloride of mercury, will fairly eat
eff the outer cuticle and deter nature
in her course.
The pores of the skin can so easily
be clogged up by Impure creams, which
overreed the riesn and fill the pores
viith grease and dust, forming into
what is called blackheads.
The ordinary face powder contains
gredients vhich clog the pores and
prevent respiration, or breathing of
the skin.
When the pores become clogged by
bad creams and powders and all nat
ural respiration is stopped there can
be no result but irritating eruptions,
red and blotchy patches, acne and
struma.
instead of working against nature.
give her a chance. Help her along by
adding to the skin food she supplies
only the purest oils such as almond
or olive. Be sure your creams are
made of the purest Ingredients. There
is no economy In cheap skin beauti-
f ers. He sure your powder is of the
best quality, and that it is of a nature
hich does not clog the pores of the
skin and prevent the sir from reach
ing it.
Do not irritate the skin. Sooth it,
and nature, through the process of re
construction, will give the whole body
a smooth an.1 velvety covering.
Nature is thorough in her work, but
if you wrench or abuse the skin ma
chinery you cannot expect a finely
finished product.
It is a mistake to assume that exer
cises merely promote physical develop
ment. They have a broader effect.
When they lead you into sports and
games they actually develop your sense
of beauty and honesty, construct new
Ideals and broaden and strengthen the
mind.
One of the nation's leading physi
cians and the head of a large state's
health department says: "In these days
of advanced health measures children
should be taught to take plenty of out
door physical exercise but it should
not bj of a brutal character. Their
sports should tend to cultivate control,
temperate thoughts and kindness." .
Tliis Is the right view of the subject.
Even the ordinary calisthenics and
H.Sk4i
Russell.
r
gymnastics should be undertakeif witlij '
an object of more than physical devsU v
opment. But all physios! cultur.'auj3
thorlttes are demanding sxsrelssi
which will prove interesting and , oo-" ,
upy the mind, while the musoles ar j
In play. That la the reason mors tn.
the ordinary apparatus, dumb bells ana
Indian clubs, are being brought Intl.
use in the gymnasium. .
Basketball, handball and other Ilk'
games provide excellent pnysicai ss-
rcl whlU at tha limn tlms tht!
occupy the mind snd encourags units
action by the brain and body. Outaoof
sports can be placed in the same cats-'
gory. ' ' '
There la nothing that sxpands ln:
sense of fairness mors than sports ;v
L.n fairness ana cheating ars nsvtr ion.
erated. Kven contestants must Show
the greatest courtesy to each othsri
and thav davalnn atrona evnaoatnlsa
Contests and games Improve the men-" t
tat faculties and quicken tha action sr.
the brain and reasoning powers. , 'JL
One of ur noted physicians saysi'y
To maintain the highest degree at V
physical health, it must be acoom-
pan led by a healthy brain that can '
work out its own problems In earlj,:
intercourse with trie rest oT mankind.,
nd cooperate for the preservation Of,'
its own species. .; v ..n
Many men who are strictly honorable r
in business, in the literal sense of th
word, would never for a moment chsat. ,
at a game of cards, nor In athletU
sports, when they consider it fair play--to
drive a bargain with a client or OMj; '
tomer for a slight percentage of pfo-flt,
They would stand in honor bound-ti;..
absolute fairness In a gams of tennii
or golf. ' "T
Perhaps In no other line of -educa--. ,
tlon Is honor so cultivated as in ath
letics. Therefore look upon exerclM '
as something big and important. II "
will measure up to such standards. 11 ;
will lead to beauty and strength 01
body and mind.
Exercise In any form Is a blessing,'
but when it leads to both physical ana
mental cultivation it carries double'
value. "
When you are hiding your llttls Ja:
or cream, box or powder ana Dottis 01
hair tonic from your men folks" do you -do
it because you fear you will appeal-i
weak or lacking In sense in their eye;
if they were to be let into your ssorsl' '
of beauty? Disabuse your mind of
such unnecessary precautions. Stand .
forth In the pride of knowing that'
you are doing for yourself something
fo- the betterment of the raos In sp
pearlng at your best at all tiroes.
Do you still live in ths belief otrriair1
being impervious to flattery? Io you
think that men do not give a thought'
to their appearance and have a con'-'
tmpt for anyone who doss? Oh, nV
The day Is past when men cars noughi '
for the effect they produce upon thf
world physically.
.
it
I had tea a few days ago. and was
more than entertained by three rues
who sat behind me st snother tablsv
Hair tonTc was thslr first toiyto'ai"
conversation. One had derived som
satisfactory result from a manga turs.
which he had rubbed into his . scats
three or four times each wsek. X
though of Dsve Warfleld's old saying, .
What is good enough for a fins dog
is good enough for me." My enters
tsir.er was enthusiastic Over the dog
lotion, and recommended it to his tw
companions, one of whom was appar .
tntly a married man. l'
"How could I hide it from my wifst
thj latter asked. She is perfectly foxf
and I wouldn't like her to know thST
I used mange cure, and one with suetf
an odor at any rate. Then he ex
tolled tee virtues of another hair tanle -
hia wife had been using. , Yl(rouf
brushing was sdvlsed for, the hair le
enhance its' growth and beauty. Btil-'
liantlne was recommended by one ts"
the others to make the hair look shlnx
and healthy. '
I rather delighted in tha advsnt, and
the freedom with which these men dir
cussed the matter. Showing at' UssI
that they believed in dispelling
wrinkles and facial blemishes in an
possible way, and In delaying tha rav
ages of age and dissipation. X felt in
clined to tell them that If they cast
aside their whiskey which stood promt
nently on the table, drank water,
even the feminine weakness, tea, and
dismissed their motors and footed' It
home, tbey Would do more toward de
laying baldness and wrinkles then they -could
possibly be aware of. - - -
ToPrevei
Are most successful because tbey r
move dandruff, allay itching and irrita
tion, keep the scalp deu, and promoU
healthy, hair growing eosditionsv, '
Samples Free by IIcll
Oetlflra Soaa Sa4 Ollssl mt
liberal asapta H sm smBsS ens SS-w-kMls
Aasreai ewerd "OiA-m. Xsa4. 1..:ssv
And Ointment