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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 21, 1915)
" . ' 1 ' 1 ; i THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL', PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 21, 1915, , what mm mEBsmwmmmmm 8 Paris Openings Show Influence ' of War on Dress By m . n ?. t fnne nienue :. (Copyright, 1913, by MeClure Newspaper Syndicate.) it m HE spring openings in Paris fare I over. Argument for ami against them has been rife for til months; experts saying they would occur; experts saying they would cme off on schedule time. The majority of Americans wh not want to believe that these open ings would occur sold thousands! :.: 1 w anti n cr mAftla trt t hlmsil n S' - women- who really think that the tue . de la Pafx and all the other streets 'that its name embraces to the layman, are dead. i 1 Then came the excitement concern ing the edict of February 18 by :hs Germans declaring the waters arot nd ? the British Isles as a new war zone, :and again layman and commercialisi , said that new gowns from Paris were Impossible; that even if they had hen created, they could not be gotten qer here, . ; ; !f . Rumor referred to-jthe establishment of crinoline models as substitutes j or fabrls ones. Comment gave the opinion ' that France, sartorially, was dead. Loh? live American fashions! i No wonder that the world which makes Us bread and butter on selling clothes and all that appertains there to was excited, for it all knew tljiat .Paris would still be Paris no matter how often the American woman had "been told for three months that it was ' dead. ; - : . . And back are the buyers, and back with them are hundreds upon hundreds or new frocks and wraps and hats, with still more hundreds coming (by ships from France. Every house in Paris, excepting that of Paul Poiret, had its opening as in other and happier days. Poiret is at Lisieux doing soldldr duty and will not trust his house Into other hands. . The only house that seemed diffi cult at first was Callot's, who wotld not give promise of a speedy shipment Maying that the twenty-seventh of the month was the date on which she would send over frocks direct to America. As the maritime blockade was already established, the buyer liejit the room on the opening day unwillifcg to buy. Later, she changed her data a week earlier, but as it is, the gowps from that, house will arrive after two others, many .of which were shippted by the buyers before they left. i Styles Varied and Hot Much. Changed ) ....... w t. . v. guaiq ivjiif, iiucr. .quarter, and shorts . Every figure is suited. Narrow petticoat skirts aire placed ' beneath a wide upper skjrt which barely escapes covering lit. Bunohuig and futile draping are batti-' lshed. Everything is marked by siJir-: -li'ity." Colors are toned down. Noriial and empire waistlines aire established, although some' of tio houses showed the low Moyen-age gir die, "which was refused the wiser buy ers. Gowns copied from pictures ajre wn instead of those taken from the women, at the races. Freakishness is barred, and beauty is sought and the result is excessively pleasing. Thre are many buyers who are not contejnt with this feature and are already eeeking to impart an air of eccen tricity to suits and frocks, on the men tal basis that the American woman will Hot buy sober clothes. She must be startling. That is truer of the worden who buy often and cheaply than of those who buy infrequently and wli. Always the place for eccentricity is in s the low priced garments. It is the wage earner on $10 a week who waiilts eVmething new and staring. Brocades are used, also 'gnbardtie, arid thin serge with a fine twill, faille, and a great deal of taffeta, some plajin, . some figured and stamped with metal threads. , The house of Callot insisted upon narrow skirts again measuring only a little over a yard,; and the American buyer refused them, finally offering to buy If the width vas changed. It is now the story of the designing wiirld ir( Paris that the Haughtiest houseiiin Europe consented' to this jurisdict on by Americans. Times are changed Money is needed. And for the com, Callot widened herlskirts. Interesting Itn t It? ' Cheruit Flattens Skirt Front and Back. Cheruit led the way toward utmbst simplicity? in line jand coloring. She moderated the fulness of her last sjea son skirts, and showed them entirely in 1.1-ujii ana oaeK with ripples at the side. Nothing she exhibited Xas theatrical. She cjhose corbeau blue - new gray-blue -of .the French1 soldi's uniform which is it-copy of our wjest Point gray, and which our shops iikve already exhibited as Gettysburg giky- mauve is another half mourning tbn : uses. ' All her skirts are ex tra short, the mannequins wearing rJigh boots with street and afternoon cos tumes, also high satin boots with een irg frocks, a fashion which is making - its appearance here. Often the boot Is laced at the side instead of ftut toned. aa -ua-nviu xouthfuli Both Georgette and Jeanne Laiivin show styles that are decidedly voutliful and wearable. They use moderately short jackets with high waistline, not exaggerated. Skirts are verv sftort and khaki, dull red, blue coldat and beige are their colors. Georgette tises much, black lace and tulle for evening frocks with the Servian cape effect hanging from the shoulders, a sb-le she always wore herself, it was the - opinion of a well known buyer that her "ribbon" frock would prove tj be . her greatest American success. " Lavin showed many taffeta frocks .and delightfully jaunty coat suits; her -use of pockets embroidered in ' red "white and blue may be welcomed 1 er Both . Paquin and. Worth showed j-flounced skirts. The latter house :. liU4 thTVl varir m i , -, 1 . i .1 . l . , " . , " w J . . . . 1 1 I O J U , Ij , ' still under the influence of hr tvi..i. " " . 4,AO.V4C J . 1 ' J ! i , I I wile the colorists, for she showed cerise turquoise and violet, and lent herself Mo the second empirefbv using gar viands of flowers as trimmings. What Paris sbowa. .The new gowns afready have been brought from Paris by our most en terprising buyers, who should be -reckoned as htrt-oic as the war cor 1 respondents, for they take every . chance, and their exploits wouM make good and racy reading If ono had the. time to tell them. Thre are stories of competitive generalship, -of hairbreadth escapes, of taking . the gambling . chance, of shrewd reckoning and the spending of -money in a seemingly mad manner all these diversions are part' of the sartorial spoils from France; -5 There is nothing to frighten one In them. They do not signify ' that all the clothes we posses must be discarded. Certain Jines are accen tuated, the -two silhouettes that ihave .been opposed to eafh other ali winter, remain as they were. . Callot holds to narrow skirts; Pre met continues to cut her hems 'into points is a picture hat of j 'tiny flowers instead of making them, ven; Cheruit has modified the width of skirt which shd advocated last summed and has given herself over to morie pronounced Louis XV styles; and Georgette has kept to that swinging army cape effect at ihe back of gowns which, she manne quined herself last seasonj . and. which shW likes very much indeed. Tli Present War and Styles. The American dressmakers thought improbable that the present war would strongly ; influence until it was over; Jjut It has had a string effect already if one ii to judge .the new gowns shown in Paris and whch later will set the! styles here, especially; if they are to ! be j exhibited ban Francisco. Callot, for example, whose collec tion was lone of the bst in evening frocks she has made in several years, put forth ;as a feature a soldier's tailor suit in the new. blue that has been accepted by the French army, and for whjch Paail Poiret is said to be re sporfsible. tiot only was the color inspired by the history of the battlefield, but the coajt was ;cut in imitation) of the field ovelrcoats1 which have the fronts folded bacik and' buttoned.f' This cut is easy to fcopy, but the -rijkterial is very dif f iciblt to secure, .becausej it j is requi sitioned by the French government for waf uses; The best way out of the dilimma for the A.meriedns is to get tbej cloth I used by our government for thei Westj Point cadets; the two colors arei almost identical. "the self-advertising coloration of the! field uniforms of the Fre'nch army has been so serious a drawbaqk, and thej acknowledged superiority of the grajy-blue of the German army has betjn so universally recognized that the change in color from bright blue and brijliant scarlet to; a concealing color lik West Point gray, was too import ant an issue to pass the designers. 'fhe French name for the shade is "bliue soMat," which is more sentimen tal than descriptive. The American nan conveys a better impression of whiat this new shade that we will weir from now on is really like. All Show Military Coats. All the designers in Paris showed some kind of -military coat and all of them used to the utmost the fashion foi pockets. Khaki colter, which the French women like, was; not featured for the Americans, who. will undoubt edly give the preference1 to this' new blue in serge, gabardine, tussah and siljc; Even satin coat suits were shown in it. ,1 georgette, who leaped) into promi nence last spring after taking over the holise of Francis, who had held the distinction of being the tailor -to the qujeens of Great Britain, i features zouave coats to her tailor costumes mere than the short and! better known coat, iter zouaves are direct copies of those worn by the Algerikn troops who are fighting under General Joffre. tri millinery one found the influence of the war everywhere. America has mde much of the new flat hats, but SOME NEW NOTES ON SPRING FASHIONS j- griTKASTLMi linings are a leature I of many of tIT new street suits V in covert and other light woolen fabrics. Blue, cerise, black and white, brown and green are all effectively usfed. rmiie. It hasfmad'e itself a fabric of necessity, Tulle lis as much used as ever. arid lit 1$ difficult to- imagine a change Styles great enough to change the position j of tulle. : A great deal of it is usseq onj summer frocks that are al ready shown. Popular Gray. jGray is one of the shades p the spring! when it! is becoming is most popular It is cool and really charm ing. But there are rhany ; types of fajee anij color that canhot stand gray arid it should be worn thje paler shades, only thought. . especially in after careful Hand Embroidery, Hiind i embroidery plats a prominent.: part in; the trimming of thin frocks. There are many lovely frocks of net almost I covered with embroidery. Bomses of sheer fabrics, too, show mludh embroidery. Fringr as Trimming. Fringe of many sorts is still used. S?mje of- the newest skirts show an edging iof fringe at thej botom. There 4 silK corded f rings that is often ue$ With faille. Arid there is a fringe baade of strands of beads -that used a. good deal on (evening frocks. Bibbon. Bows. Bows of ribbon are 'effectively used oiji some of the new; wide skirted fijocika iof satin and silk. One that is pretty has little square bows of satin reaching trom throat to hem. They yellow straff trimmed with, j garlands ot -Sl " , . I f if X 1 1 I I I I I ana. Mac, vetvetj atreamerS, j j . I : ; II Wttif fefl 4 I . . . h U wiih the !xceDtioh ofj'a certain kind I '. I ' I ' ; ! ' V - ' . . -' ..'' '. v . I. "; ' I I ll )- l"- j 'i o feailor everything was small, fitting the head and j representing some, styie of army neadwear. The shapes were noti shd over small, that is, they did not w much of the hair but ttiey clung to the head and did facte. ji Alsatian Bow Revived. Whatever else was featured, the ob- shape took precedence. It was made in ribbed silk and nearly always trimmed With a military cockade. The Alsatian ijiow has been revived, going straight aieross the front of j the hat. partly because Mile. Chanel (wears it whfen she sings the "Marseillaise" at tiH Comedie Francaisej to which every Is listening who ijan get! an inch ond of istandirtg room. She wears a Gre- ciah robe bf -white and when she lifts arms, she extends the side dra peries which show up. red on lone side and blue oin the other, forming! the flag f ranee. h On her he&d she ! wears a huge Alsajtian bow of j black Ailk with tiny cockade of the French colors (Mark you well) pinned at the edge. Thfe way H she sings it while the wo unded fry and the well weep IS al- reajdy one of the small classics of the war literature, as written by Wythe Williams, and goes along with that otri er classio written by Richard Hard- lag juavis concerning.; me passing ui blue-gtay fog of the German army thd through Brussels for three :days. From that thrilling moment when email portion of General; Joffre's anpy entered Alsace (shall I ever for get that memorable afternoon when th4 papers announced the fact and mep ran j In the streets crying and vo)men surged to thei famous statue in the Place de la Concorde and held their children to kiss! the stone face there andlplace new wreaths to substi tute the faded' immortelles) from that hoiir the jbjeeessity fori wearing an Al satian bow was imperative, and its apbearance on the sprjing hat was ex- pected. However, it promises to be tod populjar and the more fastidious milliners imay lean avfay from it Skirts Short, Bodices Tight. Possibly a summary of just what the famous houses in Paris exploited understand the might help women td approachikig fashions .rather than a dissertation, for wThich ; there is plenty of time Ifrter. . IDousetJ tor example, made a spe cialty of three piece-suits, a few long cofcts and many shoift ones, which hald a slikhtly empire! waistline. Mid night bine and old j rose were the colors used. Many of his best eve ning f rocjks were blaf k, . made of lace add jet and of quantities of tulle. 'allot ishowed evejning frocks in uve, rose, blacjc ahd salmon pink. Several Of the best ! evening frocks wre in violet and lavender'. A sen sajtion was caused by a bridal gown, which Callot has nqt shown before, mpde of white satin i with green em brjoidery, the bodice quite decollette. Ai brides! have not w)orn the low or saj'ge for many yearsj this innovation, arje distinctly in keeping with the wide skirt.. - I : ! : Loop Trimming. Loops of! ribbon, too, are often used f dr trimtning. One skirt of silk is e4ged arpund the bottom With loops ofl ribbon about two inches wide iar rffnged f ifirige-wlse, and the same trlm ming is ised On sleeves and bodice. White Corduroy Coats. White corduroy coats are featured to some extent, and will doubtless be much wofc-a with lingerie frocks in the simmer. I '' Bolero and Zouava Jackets. The bolero and zouave jackets, both usually becoming, are employed: in inany spring frocks. They 'are espe cially prjetty when tbey are used tn the thin ffocks, of net, organdie, ba tiste or other summer fabrics, for then they are usually elaborated with frilling or embroidery. s ; ! Changeable j Taffeta. Changeable taffeta has been used ii the mbdels shown at the February obeningsiiii Paris: aid it has made its ajppearanbe here in jsome of the new models. It : fs a distinctly suitaoie fabric foir summer, for in appearance aJnd feeling both It is crisp an cooL Whit and Black Stripes. White and black .stripes are used Ifa almost every fabric but : perhaps do more chiffon. attractively) than in voile or mounted over a foundation taffeta. Often the overdress df white df stripes is edged with blu a or black Velvet riibbon. which gives it a sta bility and charm it would j otherwise lack. , ' I ? " -:- -i - Colored Blouses. Colored handkerchief linen , blcwses are shown again this year. Tou re member,! last year i they were intro In the upper left-hand corner is aj smaljl wrflte bit trimded with white roses, from tile Maison- If V T-'II ' j If I Lewis. On the rigtt is cmart nlodl frbm Suianne Talbot, ot blue straw, ancl black ribbon.; " t fP JigMy.Lg-t f. no shade the Reboux sent over tne moqei Deipw, on Drown sidk ana xtpy ueu.ua wmcu give iu ucp j-- ; i 'iHfi-.A; M''r I ribbon. Georgette is shojnng more gmall hats jthis season, ajad not many picture hats. , - ?'!' ' l I I I ill ! ! along with the use of green embroid ery, makes one pause. I The skirts were narrow for all occa sions, but then Callot has never erated the full skirt. White frocks were made sombre swinging draperies of hanging from shoulders in back. Splendid brocade played part, as one must always expect at this house, and figured fillies com bined with gold and silver were made into afternoon and evening gown, In special evening frocks, a com bination of variously colored srystals placed on self-colored nen to give an opalescent effect. Every where one saw draperies of tulle flow ing from the shoulder to the hem in another color from the gjown. and there were frocus wi pire waistline, very much Josephine wore, with the th the em- like those huge prna ment in the front holding sweeping skirt lines of plain satin.. Cheruit for Simplicity, Cheruit held her clienj Itele fiitmly. Her collection is said to be as artistic and as likable as those She made in the summer and last February. One who knows this talented wemah would feel quite sure tha : she w ould go toward mauve and simplicity. Callot is ornate; Cheruit is simple It is argued by her admirers that the styles she has shown this: seasonJ will outlast the moment because they are not founded on freakishness, but) se riousness of line and coloring. They are Parisian and suggest the relgin of Louis XV, of which she is a stujdent and an admirer, and thete is aliso a touch of Louis Philippe. . ; Her tailored suits have short pats, a reversal from her silhouette of I last August, which ripple at thfe sides! from the waist. Her skirts are full, j after the 1848 pattern with the fiiJness cleverly adjusted at the sides, leajving the fronts flat. The hem i s well above the ankle, and the mann squins I f ihow high boots instead of purips with all the street frocks. Those laced the side are still worn as they havij been over here since December. Cheruit shows many sequins as th'e j cither houses do, also paillettes and beading. The decolletage in evening frocks is exceedingly low in the ba(ck and unu sually high in the fronti j Most of her' bodices arii fitted, over the bust, and are buttoiked or j laced up the back. There' is evjjry evidence, unhappily, that the waist that! fast ens in the back is to return, ana that it is to be tight. She does lessen her hold on those deep, capjelike dollars that extend from the necW to the! Waist, duced for country wear. They are still on tailored linensl frequently with pockets. They have! long sleeves ana sometimes the fronts are scal- loped. The Useful Sailor. Everyone Is glad thajt the sailor shape is in evidence in Spring mil linery.. Many hats ther are of pic ture type, poke shapes, feoo, that are vastly becoming. But for general wear nothing is so" smkrt as "the sailor. It will probably, be worn a good deal when warmer wleather Comes. Sbirrixur, Shirring marks many frocks of soft fabrics. The skirts arej hirreji oh cords about the hips, thus disposing or iuiness tnat might p-therwise awkward in a skirt not cut cular lines, but still full. Sheer Fichus The fichu has many advocates this spring. There are some pretty trbeks of taffeta, with hemstitched fichus of the sheerest muslin. fany lihgerie irocus nave ruined . fichus draped about the shoulders. Aid even some evening frocks show this .quaiiit ad- junct. - Separate Belts. If one may judge by the women are" again going to buy Shops, sepa- and rate leather oeits. J?or many good ones are shown. They are to wear with one piece frocks, and vith coats of linen and of wool. Xacy Fabrics. There is some difficulty about get ting imported laces owing to the war. But ' there is no difficulty in getting lacy and sheer fabrics. There is lace cloth, for instance, a fabric with! all the sheernesa and irregularity of sur face of all-over lace, yet with a good deal of body and strengtSi. I ! i H 1 1 i . I I . ' a a:. - I ' Ill i I I I I I I I I II III ,11 I Klth int3 that meet n J J- TX t f'.Jk- I I " - Tlhriso Lses t e Empir, wa t f f OD - , ! . satin or some 01 tne jackets are cut iiu iXl - X. dSllIUII JL iX&AV lt- f i. ft? II II I- I J II I III I I I I I f t by long godets to fit! the htbs, yet ripple.-The Ml : . 1 : 5 ' TJ I I I I I f Mack tulle preferred colors ae mauvie, sliver - . ' 1- ! 1 - -j f,sff I I I I L. Ill I I I I I I I f the gray, crbeaa blu4, which !she u$es tfy Margaret Mason . 1 j. J II I 1 If J f 1 J " its season after season, and thejnew spl- l- C ill J , .... I ' -'F .V II III III I. f I I I ill v dier bluje. Her reason for these cpl- Odds bodkins but the styles -are odd; v. -fJf'JT If i I I 1 f I I j I qrs is: j "That if ! thjs weaker gdes It's hard to pick the oWest I A t&Zsf I I I : 1 : sudden! intb mourning, they can be Yet that one is most odid, perhaps, f ' 'JrF- x7 I I I 11 I II I f llllJ I I utilized.?' Poor France! i ; Jenny Still Rising-. The rise of Jenny, the designer en tjhe Champs iElyseesl is as sinsatiorkal as . the rise df the last Mme. Le Frapc. tinder the fiiim name of Premet. . This fjpring hler opening was eminently suc cessful.! Shf featured taffeta in ld rose coliOrs. and failles in rosebud rat terns orl a grben trroiind. Still she held to her .double skirts, full and edMed with galloon of some kind, as! last year She bouftd hrir skirts with silk braid She accentuated the normal waist line, bvjt sohieti'mes brought it toj a point in fr.Ont in ithe manrter Intro duced ihi New York last Kovemberiat the fasMon fete. Last feijmmer BeeJ- was brdught to a Sudden stop in the preparatijon of his models by the war ; ind, therefore, had a belated opening i n November, but this season Ihe maihaered to ! have his house dpen On schedule time). Ameri cans, etoeoiaily, likb his clothes, and the bujfirs ibsually have sucice'ss with them, ah1' yet, neatt to Callot he is most dlsagrj eeable to us. declarin that he : doesn't care what we thinK pt him) or his work. Maybe he vt-as peevishj when he kppt on reiterating this. Maybe, meant it. However, that far ! from the tioint off what he showed at his opemigs. To begin with, i there were ' mdny Eton jicket, fully) five inches a the wan b tl in e with! a turtle!' s tail at thne bac k. you surily remember tHat design. (It was worjri several (years ago. tiis majteriais .were taffeta, naessaline, serge ahd cbvert cloth. Jean Lativih is another! desigher who exploitled styles for the young; her skirts are full,, her coats shjort with aj high waistline and she uises knuch taffetk. One) f her best frocks. called i'lthe Alexandria," is! of black jtaffeta brawled inl white.: with white hone biulUoris in firbnt, and embr(jid- lered ppekkets of red, white and b Another military tduch. you see. HOW TOlBE THIN By Marjsr Lee. It is bot cttiricult for a 1 woman! to remain! slender, or,! if, stout. to become slender. The chief trouble Iwith th ose iwho complain of tqrpulencir and its embarrassrn ehts isi that they . decline to sacnijice any of j ine "pleasures' of the taplte. Dieting to them means starvation cutting but one meal a day or reducing all meals and! this is i drastic! remedy to which few will sub rnit fof a "Protracted period. As 4 fenaitter of: fact, however, ithe starvation leure is unnecessary , and seldom to be recommended. The best and safest way tq -educe Clesh is) to adopt ja! w all balan :ed diet that (ex cludes all carbonaceous fooids. Stai-ch, sugar, oil, land alcohol should be put aside byj a If at perion. i To sieo aii appetizing table, yet omit these, is not so difficult as may appear for thjerle remain all kinds of meat excepting pork, all s ame, all sea food, all friiitj ekcept hananas, a majority of saiad and grieen vegetables-in fact, all jegetablfes excepi potatoes, corn, dried! beans j argi lentils. ' From this list it lis easy: tb compose a varl ety of tempting menus. Eggs also may be eateii inl moderation and the amojunt. of oil i used in salad dressing is not enougH to be fattening. ! Soupi gravy, milkl brea4, potatoes, cerealsL sweets and alcoholic bever ages s(r4 to be avoided. Bar these rigorously jfrora the table and widhin a month you will ibigin to lose flesh. It is) Sii4ply a matter of eliminatig from jfomr diet all foods that are ex cessivelly fat-producibg. It is a treat ment that j cannot fail to reduce your llesh ijf yqu adhere to it, and if you compose your mepus with care ands intelligence you will oe surprised t to not how- little ybd will miss these. forbiddeh foods aftei- a bref time. When have attained the weight yoa desire) it is not necessary to fol low thjejaiet quite! so closely. Never theless you should be on iyour guard against f producing foods, for if it is your tendency itoi be corpulent ! all such fbod (will be fatal to your figure, Hungary meat famine-. , . . r " 1 is threatened with a I Whirh ia riic-riot onH mrult I ,. .-.''v"-.-;:" - I I I I I I I I I I I I i K f 111 I to be the best Commodity of the sea- - A'Jf&jjr - 1 ll 'ill ill son. The follower of fashion wiio fcSfS I I ' III I I rill It I likes to be stared at as ieitig dashinl- Jr r?f I i f I I I III I I i I -jJ ly different and riginalj certainly has 1 I i " Jill III V Pr a wide field to :hoose! frbmj Takiu LT - I tsJL I LW , J from the tips of her toes to' the fje (I I -Jr9JF' . of her French lid on it she can go the ness with perfect lmpumi Beginning at this top ntch ahd work ing down the oddest chapeau up 'to date is the leghorn hat with the trartsparer t drop, curtain, of tulle tjjirougiii whicjti the wearer's eyes peer otyt' seductively. Even topping the hat for oddityj how, ever, comes the flat many ribbed park boi apeing. me paper parasol ot jar away Japan. These sijk replicas of Japanese paper originals! lare the quin essence oi quaintpess. 'iihey are shown entirely covered in gay! (futuristic siilk or with a galy figured! plain Bilk border. Some are all df one toned silk With an embroidered motir like those toundj upon a Jaii anese screen, a flight of yeupw swai lows across a pbrple Sky and .whjitte or blue and whitfe stripe com-binationis are losing their hoveltyl throijigh repe tition for the last twAj seasons, but the square parasdl adds a new; odd n.qe iiua year as uoes aiso ine tra.nsparnt parasol of net if luff .with bountleds ruffles of dainty hued! I satih ribbon bureiy these partasols are the odddst things under the sun whjile the peeled nair of the irreneh roll coiffure edit tinues as the oddfest of all things iinddr the hat. The ruff of plfeated white tulle that stands out stiffly 'unde r the chin and fastens an otherwise perfectly bare throat is certainly odd enough to suit anyone even the most fjriicky! and theh there's the peasant bodlide with its m shaped point in front that is! laced MP- tne front like a regular, corset. It "Is when you reach the skirt, how ever, that oddness fairly funs rib There is the crinoline skirt, the. skirt shirred on cord i arouhdl the hips ftp flare out around the ankles in careless abandon, the skijt with h apron eff ick in front and the flippant skirt that is just one ruffle after another.) A stok- juug u uuu iiia-Liit is iwBiuveiy weira is one with gold braid and Itiny gold buttons running up one. side to the calf. The braid then runs around the le'g with a gold tassel rigftt in tjhe frontv the whole effect jbeing a simul tation or a nigh -colored shoe. len t that the limit? Then there are the endless odd va rieties of low ahd high shoes with inh sets of light leather olitlining a tiiny pointed tip of blae patent! kid. The heel and back of a punfip of one. cojoir and the vanfp of blaick kid with) a piping of the color around the top ahd, oh, all ana every combination that hu man ingenuity can cobble I verily with such a wide scone of ocdness to chodse from it does seeiri queer now, doedn't it, that some wo men are forced I to wear just one earf ring at a time to attract attentioni Just why yellow has always beeii under a sort of ! stigma j as designating the rotten streak in humanity typify ing jealousy ana reminiscent only (of biliousness or jaundice ! is hard to ac count for now Itiiat it I has been wel corned into the irma of fashion as on of the most charming tints of the sea son. Sunshine, beaten gold land fielda of ripened wheat are only a few of the lovely things it now reminds us bf. Exquisite arei the. yellow crepe Ids enme negligees, tnet pussy wniow tar f eta and crepe lingerie lid maize tints. Beautiful the gowns pf shimmering yellow satin and the hats and narasoils, blouses, stockings, slippers and gloves all in the color of liquid sunshine. truly is up to all those who have ari eye for the beAutlful nd artistio t4 forget its jaundiced past and with a welcoming smile say f Hello yellow. A Married Alan Said! This: From the Philadelphia Ledger. "Father, what la the ! meaning Iof; 'awe'T' "The feeling hen-pecked man- has toward one who isn't rpu wifin ner irensii . r . i j I II - . r . t sr-"nwm. J v.) - In thei sketch is shown a charminc brown .silk jersey, long and. 1 full, and a good hat from Jeanne Lanvin, of black and white. Goad Nature Is Excellent Habit By Elbert Hubbard New York, March 20.' "Instead of Good nature is a habit. J t is the beauty of the mind. j- 4 : And it wins, sometimes even in spile of the positive deficiencies of its ioh sessor. ,i. . ; .: ! - .A person may have culture i from reading or travel, or genius- from re flection; but no matter: how learned he is, how big a genius he may be. lack of -good nature decreases his: effec tiveness and usefulness, or nullifies it altogether. : - I :.(... Men are great only as they are; kind.' Give me a man, with sunny, cheerful disposition and pleasant feelings man whose blood Is warm within, and who does not creep into the jaundice by being peevish. r i ' v For then I knoiy. I have one who rea sons rightly,, who makes " allowances for the failings of 'others, who distin guishes that which . comes clonest to excellence, and Is candid in bin opin , ions.- ;! i , ' Also, he' Is the man who will carry the message to Garcia for good natur-j alwavs lmnlies the willingness to serve. . i 'i . Some men are oxycrations mixtures of vinegar and water. s - i The milk of human kindness Is soured by the vitiating atmosphere of suspicion; their minds I are manatled by dogmatism, the mother of : doubt They impale their friends bn tha rapier of ridicule, ami lsh them with the whip of sarcasm.. ; , Everything is going to the demnition bow-wows; we are a nation of graft era and arrabbers. ad. alii. men aire liars. : Always on the lookout for ("ulter ior motives," they still! rail to separ ata itha asentlal from the accidental; thejf trample both grain and chaff undnoot. ' . i i . Gbod nature sees the grain the bush efeff chaff, winnows it, and is glad. Gpod nature sees not only the imme diate and the personal,: but the : ulti -mate-and the collective.: : I Good nature is the life blood: of lib erty1, equality and fraternity It in the genesis of co-operation,! : v-i' ii ')'! -. 1 Our natures are as ivaried as the food we eat. For even as the body grows by what it feeds upon, ao doeq the mind; and good nature is j a dis position of mind and feeling. 1 Hence it is that the whispered word of innuendo and the tittle-tattle: of the dealer In tongue play sad havoc In both private! and business life. Good nature, by Insinuating Its fun into our hearts, enables us to ejct this poison from our system, j And at the smile ecru gives place to rose, and the merry laugh floods us with sunshine. - i ! - Good nature manifests itself in many ways, and in some cases the good natured person Is subjected to imposi tion. - ' V:' ' Yet do they ever radiate happiness and contentment, and command respect Grouchlness does not; go. It, spelK dissolution. And even i as an institu tion Is the lengthened shadow of one man, so Is a managerial grouch or dia trustfulness mirrored in the mind am! work fof every individual employe ; o' that InstltuUan; FubUc affairs are affected by the ex ercise, or absence of good nature. "The trade conditions of th-U coun try are merely psychological", dure! We've been suffering froiivhysterinU of the ego." We had sold In the blood and neurit! supervened, V But now wt! ur getting, proper ad jiislrnfnt. Wp are beginning to "o th nec8sl(y for harmony good HMt .u re. Jtegard for others," proper . perspec tive, iputtlng ynurmdf In- Ihe. otlicr man's place, rik'ht reasoning. With Justice. to !l and charity to ward none that Is true ood nature. BUTTER-MAKING Good butter Is ' generally 'expensive, and it Is not always eany t get especially ffiitHide of tlie large 'titlp. Fevd farmers wlio rriuko sweet butter tisejit tbtmselvi's; hf-y , mwrket Jt in the cities. ; Inl view of those faots it is strans l hji" nmrM -housewives df not mak buttt-r; for the vtufcm Is not at all difficult.) ! Kvcn if you have no cow,- you will find that If vou take a little extra cream and set aside the surplus for a few days, you can make a butter that will be both delicious and eco nomical. ! - If you wish to .make only a smali amount at a time buy a very small chum.br one of the new process gutter pans. If tho latter, pour tlie hitnm Into the pan, which is filled with blot ting pads.: .These : pads abHr.b tlif: milk and water, so that the butter needs very little working. To start butter-making set the cream that you have saved in a cool place, and stir 'thoroughly whenever mon' cream is added. It ought nbt to stand: more than three daya, and .must b"t be permitted to become bitter- and flaky. , , When you have enougli cream .scald the churn and dasher thoroughly, aiid put in Ihei cream at a temperature of 48 degree.,Ht.burn steadily, and whn the butter begins: to tome drop a littb; ice into the chhrn to harden the 'butter and make it easier to gathe. After gathering it as well as pos sible with th( ; da'aher, remove it to a bowl or a table and work it thoroughly with a flat wooden paddle. . Do not work butter with the- hands, for n matter how clean these may be, t hi insensible perspiration ; will taint the butter : more or less. Use an abundance of cold water to wah nut the buttermilk and harden the butter. In this way the butter milk is removed quickly, and it is not necessary to work the butter long. Excessive working injures the grain. After the : working set the butter in a. cool place, and several hcurslater work it again quickly, to remove all traces of buttermilk. The sweet but ter then, will be ready for use. Kwii it in a covered stone Jar In the milk compartment of the Ice chest. It wiit keep sweet about four days seldorn for a longer period. .
