" . ' 1 ' 1 ; i THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL', PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, MARCH 21, 1915, ,
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8
Paris Openings
Show Influence
' of War on Dress
By
m . n ?. t
fnne nienue :.
(Copyright, 1913, by MeClure Newspaper
Syndicate.) it
m HE spring openings in Paris fare
I over. Argument for ami against
them has been rife for til
months; experts saying they would
occur; experts saying they would cme
off on schedule time.
The majority of Americans wh
not want to believe that these open
ings would occur sold thousands!
:.: 1 w anti n cr mAftla trt t hlmsil n S'
- women- who really think that the tue
. de la Pafx and all the other streets
'that its name embraces to the layman,
are dead. i 1
Then came the excitement concern
ing the edict of February 18 by :hs
Germans declaring the waters arot nd
? the British Isles as a new war zone,
:and again layman and commercialisi
, said that new gowns from Paris were
Impossible; that even if they had hen
created, they could not be gotten qer
here, . ; ; !f .
Rumor referred to-jthe establishment
of crinoline models as substitutes j or
fabrls ones. Comment gave the opinion
' that France, sartorially, was dead.
Loh? live American fashions! i
No wonder that the world which
makes Us bread and butter on selling
clothes and all that appertains there
to was excited, for it all knew tljiat
.Paris would still be Paris no matter
how often the American woman had
"been told for three months that it was
' dead. ; - : . .
And back are the buyers, and back
with them are hundreds upon hundreds
or new frocks and wraps and hats,
with still more hundreds coming (by
ships from France. Every house in
Paris, excepting that of Paul Poiret,
had its opening as in other and happier
days. Poiret is at Lisieux doing soldldr
duty and will not trust his house Into
other hands. .
The only house that seemed diffi
cult at first was Callot's, who wotld
not give promise of a speedy shipment
Maying that the twenty-seventh of the
month was the date on which she
would send over frocks direct to
America. As the maritime blockade
was already established, the buyer liejit
the room on the opening day unwillifcg
to buy. Later, she changed her data
a week earlier, but as it is, the gowps
from that, house will arrive after two
others, many .of which were shippted
by the buyers before they left. i
Styles Varied and Hot Much. Changed )
....... w t. . v. guaiq ivjiif, iiucr.
.quarter, and shorts . Every figure is
suited. Narrow petticoat skirts aire
placed ' beneath a wide upper skjrt
which barely escapes covering lit.
Bunohuig and futile draping are batti-'
lshed. Everything is marked by siJir-:
-li'ity." Colors are toned down.
Noriial and empire waistlines aire
established, although some' of tio
houses showed the low Moyen-age gir
die, "which was refused the wiser buy
ers. Gowns copied from pictures ajre
wn instead of those taken from the
women, at the races. Freakishness is
barred, and beauty is sought and the
result is excessively pleasing. Thre
are many buyers who are not contejnt
with this feature and are already
eeeking to impart an air of eccen
tricity to suits and frocks, on the men
tal basis that the American woman will
Hot buy sober clothes. She must be
startling. That is truer of the worden
who buy often and cheaply than of
those who buy infrequently and wli.
Always the place for eccentricity is in
s the low priced garments. It is the
wage earner on $10 a week who waiilts
eVmething new and staring.
Brocades are used, also 'gnbardtie,
arid thin serge with a fine twill, faille,
and a great deal of taffeta, some plajin,
. some figured and stamped with metal
threads. ,
The house of Callot insisted upon
narrow skirts again measuring only a
little over a yard,; and the American
buyer refused them, finally offering to
buy If the width vas changed. It is
now the story of the designing wiirld
ir( Paris that the Haughtiest houseiiin
Europe consented' to this jurisdict on
by Americans. Times are changed
Money is needed. And for the com,
Callot widened herlskirts. Interesting
Itn t It? '
Cheruit Flattens Skirt Front and Back.
Cheruit led the way toward utmbst
simplicity? in line jand coloring. She
moderated the fulness of her last sjea
son skirts, and showed them entirely
in 1.1-ujii ana oaeK with ripples at
the side. Nothing she exhibited Xas
theatrical. She cjhose corbeau blue
- new gray-blue -of .the French1 soldi's
uniform which is it-copy of our wjest
Point gray, and which our shops iikve
already exhibited as Gettysburg giky-
mauve is another half mourning tbn
: uses. ' All her skirts are ex tra
short, the mannequins wearing rJigh
boots with street and afternoon cos
tumes, also high satin boots with een
irg frocks, a fashion which is making
- its appearance here. Often the boot
Is laced at the side instead of ftut
toned. aa -ua-nviu xouthfuli
Both Georgette and Jeanne Laiivin
show styles that are decidedly voutliful
and wearable. They use moderately
short jackets with high waistline, not
exaggerated. Skirts are verv sftort
and khaki, dull red, blue coldat and
beige are their colors. Georgette tises
much, black lace and tulle for evening
frocks with the Servian cape effect
hanging from the shoulders, a sb-le
she always wore herself, it was the
- opinion of a well known buyer that
her "ribbon" frock would prove tj be
. her greatest American success.
" Lavin showed many taffeta frocks
.and delightfully jaunty coat suits; her
-use of pockets embroidered in ' red
"white and blue may be welcomed 1 er
Both . Paquin and. Worth showed
j-flounced skirts. The latter house
:. liU4 thTVl varir m i , -, 1 . i .1 . l . , " .
, " w J . . . . 1 1 I O J U , Ij , '
still under the influence of hr tvi..i.
" " . 4,AO.V4C J . 1 ' J ! i , I I wile
the colorists, for she showed cerise
turquoise and violet, and lent herself
Mo the second empirefbv using gar
viands of flowers as trimmings.
What Paris sbowa.
.The new gowns afready have been
brought from Paris by our most en
terprising buyers, who should be
-reckoned as htrt-oic as the war cor
1 respondents, for they take every
. chance, and their exploits wouM
make good and racy reading If ono
had the. time to tell them. Thre are
stories of competitive generalship,
-of hairbreadth escapes, of taking
. the gambling . chance, of shrewd
reckoning and the spending of
-money in a seemingly mad manner
all these diversions are part' of the
sartorial spoils from France;
-5 There is nothing to frighten one
In them. They do not signify ' that
all the clothes we posses must be
discarded. Certain Jines are accen
tuated, the -two silhouettes that ihave
.been opposed to eafh other ali winter,
remain as they were.
. Callot holds to narrow skirts; Pre met
continues to cut her hems 'into points
is a picture hat of
j 'tiny flowers
instead of making them, ven; Cheruit
has modified the width of skirt which
shd advocated last summed and has
given herself over to morie pronounced
Louis XV styles; and Georgette has
kept to that swinging army cape effect
at ihe back of gowns which, she manne
quined herself last seasonj . and. which
shW likes very much indeed.
Tli Present War and Styles.
The American dressmakers thought
improbable that the present war
would strongly ; influence
until it was over; Jjut It has had a
string effect already if one ii to judge
.the new gowns shown in Paris and
whch later will set the! styles here,
especially; if they are to ! be j exhibited
ban Francisco.
Callot, for example, whose collec
tion was lone of the bst in evening
frocks she has made in several years,
put forth ;as a feature a soldier's tailor
suit in the new. blue that has been
accepted by the French army, and for
whjch Paail Poiret is said to be re
sporfsible. tiot only was the color inspired by
the history of the battlefield, but the
coajt was ;cut in imitation) of the field
ovelrcoats1 which have the fronts folded
bacik and' buttoned.f' This cut is easy
to fcopy, but the -rijkterial is very dif
f iciblt to secure, .becausej it j is requi
sitioned by the French government for
waf uses; The best way out of the
dilimma for the A.meriedns is to get
tbej cloth I used by our government for
thei Westj Point cadets; the two colors
arei almost identical.
"the self-advertising coloration of
the! field uniforms of the Fre'nch army
has been so serious a drawbaqk, and
thej acknowledged superiority of the
grajy-blue of the German army has
betjn so universally recognized that the
change in color from bright blue and
brijliant scarlet to; a concealing color
lik West Point gray, was too import
ant an issue to pass the designers.
'fhe French name for the shade is
"bliue soMat," which is more sentimen
tal than descriptive. The American
nan conveys a better impression of
whiat this new shade that we will
weir from now on is really like.
All Show Military Coats.
All the designers in Paris showed
some kind of -military coat and all of
them used to the utmost the fashion
foi pockets. Khaki colter, which the
French women like, was; not featured
for the Americans, who. will undoubt
edly give the preference1 to this' new
blue in serge, gabardine, tussah and
siljc; Even satin coat suits were shown
in it. ,1
georgette, who leaped) into promi
nence last spring after taking over the
holise of Francis, who had held the
distinction of being the tailor -to the
qujeens of Great Britain, i features
zouave coats to her tailor costumes
mere than the short and! better known
coat, iter zouaves are direct copies of
those worn by the Algerikn troops who
are fighting under General Joffre.
tri millinery one found the influence
of the war everywhere. America has
mde much of the new flat hats, but
SOME NEW NOTES ON SPRING FASHIONS
j- griTKASTLMi linings are a leature
I of many of tIT new street suits
V in covert and other light woolen
fabrics. Blue, cerise, black and white,
brown and green are all effectively
usfed.
rmiie.
It
hasfmad'e itself a fabric of necessity,
Tulle lis as much used
as ever.
arid lit 1$ difficult to- imagine a change
Styles great enough to change the
position j of tulle. : A great deal of it is
usseq onj summer frocks that are al
ready shown.
Popular Gray.
jGray is one of the
shades p the spring!
when it! is becoming is
most popular
It is cool and
really charm
ing. But there are rhany ; types of
fajee anij color that canhot stand gray
arid it should be worn
thje paler shades, only
thought. .
especially in
after careful
Hand Embroidery,
Hiind i embroidery plats a prominent.:
part in; the trimming of thin frocks.
There are many lovely frocks of net
almost I covered with embroidery.
Bomses of sheer fabrics, too, show
mludh embroidery.
Fringr as Trimming.
Fringe of many sorts is still used.
S?mje of- the newest skirts show an
edging iof fringe at thej botom. There
4 silK corded f rings that is often
ue$ With faille. Arid there is a
fringe baade of strands of beads -that
used
a. good deal on (evening frocks.
Bibbon. Bows.
Bows of ribbon are 'effectively used
oiji some of the new; wide skirted
fijocika iof satin and silk. One that is
pretty has little square bows of satin
reaching trom throat to hem. They
yellow straff trimmed with, j garlands ot -Sl " , . I f if X 1 1 I I I I
I ana. Mac, vetvetj atreamerS, j j . I : ; II Wttif fefl 4 I . . . h U
wiih the !xceDtioh ofj'a certain kind I '. I ' I ' ; ! ' V - ' . . -' ..'' '. v . I. "; ' I I ll )- l"- j 'i
o
feailor everything was small, fitting
the
head and j representing some, styie
of
army neadwear. The shapes were
noti
shd
over small, that is, they did not
w much of the hair but ttiey clung
to
the head and did
facte. ji
Alsatian Bow Revived.
Whatever else was featured, the ob-
shape took precedence. It was
made in ribbed silk and nearly always
trimmed With a military cockade. The
Alsatian ijiow has been revived, going
straight aieross the front of j the hat.
partly because Mile. Chanel (wears it
whfen she sings the "Marseillaise" at
tiH
Comedie Francaisej to which every
Is listening who ijan get! an inch
ond
of
istandirtg room. She wears a Gre-
ciah robe
bf -white and when she lifts
arms, she extends the side dra
peries which show up. red on lone side
and blue oin the other, forming! the flag
f ranee. h On her he&d she ! wears a
huge Alsajtian bow of j black Ailk with
tiny cockade of the French colors
(Mark you well) pinned at the edge.
Thfe
way H she sings it while the
wo
unded fry and the well weep IS al-
reajdy one of the small classics of the
war literature, as written by Wythe
Williams, and goes along with that
otri
er classio written by Richard Hard-
lag
juavis concerning.; me passing ui
blue-gtay fog of the German army
thd
through Brussels for three :days.
From that thrilling moment when
email portion of General; Joffre's
anpy entered Alsace (shall I ever for
get that memorable afternoon when
th4 papers announced the fact and
mep ran j In the streets crying and
vo)men surged to thei famous statue
in the Place de la Concorde and held
their children to kiss! the stone face
there andlplace new wreaths to substi
tute the faded' immortelles) from that
hoiir the jbjeeessity fori wearing an Al
satian bow was imperative, and its
apbearance on the sprjing hat was ex-
pected. However, it
promises to be
tod populjar and the
more fastidious
milliners imay lean avfay from it
Skirts Short, Bodices Tight.
Possibly a summary of
just what
the famous houses in
Paris exploited
understand the
might help women td
approachikig fashions
.rather than a
dissertation, for wThich ; there is plenty
of time Ifrter. .
IDousetJ tor example, made a spe
cialty of three piece-suits, a few long
cofcts and many shoift ones, which
hald a slikhtly empire! waistline. Mid
night bine and old j rose were the
colors used. Many of his best eve
ning f rocjks were blaf k, . made of lace
add jet and of quantities of tulle.
'allot ishowed evejning frocks in
uve, rose, blacjc ahd salmon pink.
Several Of the best ! evening frocks
wre in violet and lavender'. A sen
sajtion was caused by a bridal gown,
which Callot has nqt shown before,
mpde of white satin i with green em
brjoidery, the bodice quite decollette.
Ai brides! have not w)orn the low or
saj'ge for many yearsj this innovation,
arje distinctly in keeping with the wide
skirt.. - I : ! :
Loop Trimming.
Loops of! ribbon, too, are often used
f dr trimtning. One skirt of silk is
e4ged arpund the bottom With loops
ofl ribbon about two inches wide iar
rffnged f ifirige-wlse, and the same trlm
ming is ised On sleeves and bodice.
White Corduroy Coats.
White corduroy coats are featured to
some extent, and will doubtless be
much wofc-a with lingerie frocks in the
simmer. I
'' Bolero and Zouava Jackets.
The bolero and zouave jackets, both
usually becoming, are employed: in
inany spring frocks. They 'are espe
cially prjetty when tbey are used tn
the thin ffocks, of net, organdie, ba
tiste or other summer fabrics, for
then they are usually elaborated with
frilling or embroidery. s ;
! Changeable j Taffeta.
Changeable taffeta has been used
ii the mbdels shown at the February
obeningsiiii Paris: aid it has made its
ajppearanbe here in jsome of the new
models. It : fs a distinctly suitaoie
fabric foir summer, for in appearance
aJnd feeling both It is crisp an cooL
Whit and Black Stripes.
White
and black .stripes are used
Ifa almost every fabric but : perhaps
do more
chiffon.
attractively) than in voile or
mounted over a foundation
taffeta. Often the overdress
df white
df stripes is edged with blu a or black
Velvet riibbon. which gives it a sta
bility and charm it would j otherwise
lack. , ' I ? " -:- -i
- Colored Blouses.
Colored handkerchief linen , blcwses
are shown again this year. Tou re
member,! last year i they were intro
In the upper left-hand corner is aj smaljl wrflte bit trimded with white roses, from tile Maison- If V T-'II ' j If I
Lewis. On the rigtt is cmart nlodl frbm Suianne Talbot, ot blue straw, ancl black ribbon.; " t fP JigMy.Lg-t f.
no shade the Reboux sent over tne moqei Deipw, on Drown sidk ana xtpy ueu.ua wmcu give iu ucp j-- ; i 'iHfi-.A; M''r I
ribbon. Georgette is shojnng more gmall hats jthis season, ajad not many picture hats. , - ?'!' ' l I I I ill ! !
along with the use of green embroid
ery, makes one pause. I
The skirts were narrow for all occa
sions, but then Callot has never
erated the full skirt. White
frocks were made sombre
swinging draperies of
hanging from
shoulders in
back. Splendid brocade
played
part, as one must always expect at
this house, and figured fillies com
bined with gold and silver
were made
into afternoon and evening gown,
In special evening frocks, a com
bination of variously colored srystals
placed on self-colored nen
to give an opalescent effect. Every
where one saw draperies of tulle flow
ing from the shoulder to the hem in
another color from the gjown.
and there were frocus wi
pire waistline, very much
Josephine wore, with the
th the em-
like those
huge prna
ment in the front holding sweeping
skirt lines of plain satin..
Cheruit for Simplicity,
Cheruit held her clienj
Itele fiitmly.
Her collection is said to be as artistic
and as likable as those She made in
the summer and last February. One
who knows this talented wemah
would feel quite sure tha : she w ould
go toward mauve and simplicity.
Callot is ornate; Cheruit is simple
It is argued by her admirers that the
styles she has shown this: seasonJ will
outlast the moment because they are
not founded on freakishness, but) se
riousness of line and coloring. They
are Parisian and suggest the relgin of
Louis XV, of which she is a stujdent
and an admirer, and thete is aliso a
touch of Louis Philippe. . ;
Her tailored suits have short pats,
a reversal from her silhouette of I last
August, which ripple at thfe sides! from
the waist. Her skirts are full, j after
the 1848 pattern with the fiiJness
cleverly adjusted at the sides, leajving
the fronts flat. The hem i s well above
the ankle, and the mann squins I f ihow
high boots instead of purips with all
the street frocks. Those laced the
side are still worn as they havij been
over here since December. Cheruit
shows many sequins as th'e j cither
houses do, also paillettes and beading.
The decolletage in evening frocks is
exceedingly low in the ba(ck and unu
sually high in the fronti j
Most of her' bodices arii fitted, over
the bust, and are buttoiked or j laced
up the back. There' is evjjry evidence,
unhappily, that the waist that! fast
ens in the back is to return, ana that
it is to be tight. She does lessen her
hold on those deep, capjelike dollars
that extend from the necW to the! Waist,
duced for country wear. They
are
still on tailored linensl frequently
with pockets. They have! long sleeves
ana sometimes the fronts are
scal-
loped.
The Useful Sailor.
Everyone Is glad thajt the sailor
shape is in evidence in Spring mil
linery.. Many hats ther are of pic
ture type, poke shapes, feoo, that are
vastly becoming. But for general
wear nothing is so" smkrt as "the
sailor. It will probably, be worn a
good deal when warmer wleather Comes.
Sbirrixur,
Shirring marks many frocks of soft
fabrics. The skirts arej hirreji oh
cords about the hips, thus disposing
or iuiness tnat might p-therwise
awkward in a skirt not cut
cular lines, but still full.
Sheer Fichus
The fichu has many advocates
this
spring. There are some pretty
trbeks
of taffeta, with hemstitched fichus of
the sheerest muslin. fany lihgerie
irocus nave ruined . fichus
draped
about the shoulders. Aid even
some
evening frocks show this .quaiiit
ad-
junct.
- Separate Belts.
If one may judge by the
women are" again going to buy
Shops,
sepa-
and
rate leather oeits. J?or many
good ones are shown. They
are to
wear with one piece frocks, and
vith
coats of linen and of wool.
Xacy Fabrics.
There is some difficulty about get
ting imported laces owing to the war.
But ' there is no difficulty in getting
lacy and sheer fabrics. There is lace
cloth, for instance, a fabric with! all
the sheernesa and irregularity of sur
face of all-over lace, yet with a good
deal of body and strengtSi.
I ! i H 1 1 i . I I . ' a a:. - I ' Ill i I I I I I I I I II III ,11 I
Klth int3 that meet n J J- TX t f'.Jk- I I "
- Tlhriso Lses t e Empir, wa t f f OD - , ! .
satin or some 01 tne jackets are cut iiu iXl - X. dSllIUII JL iX&AV lt- f i. ft? II II I- I J II I III I I I I I f t
by long godets to fit! the htbs, yet ripple.-The Ml : . 1 : 5 ' TJ I I I I I f
Mack tulle preferred colors ae mauvie, sliver - . ' 1- ! 1 - -j f,sff I I I I L. Ill I I I I I I I f
the gray, crbeaa blu4, which !she u$es tfy Margaret Mason . 1 j. J II I 1 If J f 1 J "
its season after season, and thejnew spl- l- C ill J , .... I ' -'F .V II III III I. f I I I ill v
dier bluje. Her reason for these cpl- Odds bodkins but the styles -are odd; v. -fJf'JT If i I I 1 f I I j I
qrs is: j "That if ! thjs weaker gdes It's hard to pick the oWest I A t&Zsf I I I : 1 :
sudden! intb mourning, they can be Yet that one is most odid, perhaps, f ' 'JrF- x7 I I I 11 I II I f llllJ I I
utilized.?' Poor France!
i ; Jenny Still Rising-.
The rise of Jenny, the designer en
tjhe Champs iElyseesl is as sinsatiorkal
as . the rise df the last Mme. Le Frapc.
tinder the fiiim name of Premet. . This
fjpring hler opening was eminently suc
cessful.! Shf featured taffeta in ld
rose coliOrs. and failles in rosebud rat
terns orl a grben trroiind. Still she held
to her .double skirts, full and edMed
with galloon of some kind, as! last year
She bouftd hrir skirts with silk braid
She accentuated the normal waist
line, bvjt sohieti'mes brought it toj a
point in fr.Ont in ithe manrter Intro
duced ihi New York last Kovemberiat
the fasMon fete.
Last feijmmer BeeJ- was brdught to a
Sudden stop in the preparatijon of his
models by the war ; ind, therefore, had
a belated opening i n November, but
this season Ihe maihaered to ! have his
house dpen On schedule time). Ameri
cans, etoeoiaily, likb his clothes, and
the bujfirs ibsually
have sucice'ss with
them, ah1'
yet, neatt to Callot he
is
most dlsagrj
eeable
to us.
declarin
that he : doesn't care what we thinK
pt him) or his work. Maybe he vt-as
peevishj when he kppt on reiterating
this. Maybe, meant it. However, that
far ! from the tioint off what
he
showed at his opemigs.
To begin with, i there were
' mdny
Eton jicket, fully)
five inches a
the wan b tl in
e with!
a turtle!'
s tail
at
thne bac
k. you surily remember tHat
design. (It was worjri several (years ago.
tiis majteriais .were taffeta, naessaline,
serge ahd cbvert cloth.
Jean Lativih is another! desigher
who exploitled styles for the young;
her skirts are full,, her coats shjort
with aj high waistline and she uises
knuch taffetk. One) f her best frocks.
called i'lthe Alexandria," is! of black
jtaffeta brawled inl white.: with white
hone biulUoris in firbnt, and embr(jid-
lered ppekkets of red, white and b
Another military tduch. you see.
HOW
TOlBE THIN
By Marjsr Lee.
It is
bot
cttiricult for a 1 woman!
to
remain! slender, or,! if, stout.
to become
slender.
The chief trouble
Iwith th
ose
iwho complain of tqrpulencir and
its
embarrassrn
ehts isi that they . decline
to sacnijice
any of j ine "pleasures'
of
the taplte.
Dieting
to them means
starvation cutting but one meal a day
or reducing all meals and! this is i
drastic! remedy to which few will sub
rnit fof a "Protracted period.
As 4 fenaitter of: fact, however, ithe
starvation leure is unnecessary , and
seldom to be recommended. The best
and safest way tq -educe Clesh is) to
adopt ja! w all balan :ed diet that (ex
cludes all carbonaceous fooids. Stai-ch,
sugar, oil, land alcohol should be put
aside byj a If at perion. i
To sieo aii appetizing table, yet omit
these, is not so difficult as may appear
for thjerle remain all kinds of meat
excepting pork, all s ame, all sea food,
all friiitj ekcept hananas, a majority
of
saiad
and grieen vegetables-in
fact, all jegetablfes excepi potatoes,
corn, dried! beans j argi lentils. ' From
this list it lis easy: tb compose a varl
ety of tempting menus. Eggs also may
be eateii inl moderation and the amojunt.
of oil i used in salad dressing is not
enougH to be fattening. !
Soupi gravy, milkl brea4, potatoes,
cerealsL sweets and alcoholic bever
ages s(r4 to be avoided. Bar these
rigorously jfrora the table and widhin
a month you will ibigin to lose flesh.
It is) Sii4ply a matter of eliminatig
from jfomr diet all foods that are ex
cessivelly fat-producibg. It is a treat
ment that j cannot fail to reduce your
llesh ijf yqu adhere to it, and if you
compose your mepus with care ands
intelligence you will oe surprised t to
not how- little ybd will miss these.
forbiddeh foods aftei- a bref time.
When have attained the weight
yoa desire) it is not necessary to fol
low thjejaiet quite! so closely. Never
theless you should be on iyour guard
against f producing foods, for if it
is your tendency itoi be corpulent ! all
such fbod (will be fatal to your figure,
Hungary
meat
famine-.
, . . r "
1 is threatened with a
I Whirh ia riic-riot onH mrult I ,. .-.''v"-.-;:" - I I I I I I I I I I I I i K f 111 I
to be the best Commodity of the sea- - A'Jf&jjr - 1 ll 'ill ill
son. The follower of fashion wiio fcSfS I I ' III I I rill It I
likes to be stared at as ieitig dashinl- Jr r?f I i f I I I III I I i I -jJ
ly different and riginalj certainly has 1 I i " Jill III V Pr
a wide field to :hoose! frbmj Takiu LT - I tsJL I LW , J
from the tips of her toes to' the fje (I I -Jr9JF' .
of her French
lid on it she can go the
ness with perfect lmpumi
Beginning at this top ntch ahd work
ing down the oddest chapeau up 'to date
is the leghorn hat with the trartsparer t
drop, curtain, of tulle tjjirougiii whicjti
the wearer's eyes peer otyt' seductively.
Even topping the hat for oddityj how,
ever, comes the flat many ribbed park
boi apeing. me paper parasol ot jar
away Japan. These sijk replicas of
Japanese paper originals! lare the quin
essence oi quaintpess. 'iihey are shown
entirely covered in gay! (futuristic siilk
or with a galy figured!
plain Bilk border. Some are all df
one toned silk With an embroidered
motir like those toundj
upon a Jaii
anese screen, a flight of
yeupw swai
lows across a pbrple Sky and .whjitte
or blue and whitfe stripe com-binationis
are losing their hoveltyl throijigh repe
tition for the last twAj seasons, but
the square parasdl adds a new; odd n.qe
iiua year as uoes aiso ine tra.nsparnt
parasol of net if luff .with bountleds
ruffles of dainty hued! I satih ribbon
bureiy these partasols are the odddst
things under the sun whjile the peeled
nair of the irreneh roll coiffure edit
tinues as the oddfest of all things iinddr
the hat.
The ruff of plfeated white tulle that
stands out stiffly 'unde r the chin and
fastens an otherwise perfectly bare
throat is certainly odd enough to suit
anyone even the most fjriicky! and theh
there's the peasant bodlide with its m
shaped point in front that is! laced MP-
tne front like a regular, corset.
It "Is when you reach the skirt, how
ever, that oddness fairly funs rib
There is the crinoline skirt, the. skirt
shirred on cord i arouhdl the hips ftp
flare out around the ankles in careless
abandon, the skijt with h apron eff ick
in front and the flippant skirt that is
just one ruffle after another.) A stok-
juug u uuu iiia-Liit is iwBiuveiy weira
is one with gold braid and Itiny gold
buttons running
up one.
side to the
calf. The braid
then runs around the
le'g with a gold tassel
rigftt in tjhe
frontv the whole effect jbeing a simul
tation or a nigh -colored shoe. len t
that the limit?
Then there are the endless odd va
rieties of low ahd high shoes with inh
sets of light leather olitlining a tiiny
pointed tip of blae patent! kid. The
heel and back of a punfip of one. cojoir
and the vanfp of blaick kid with) a
piping of the color around the top ahd,
oh, all ana every combination that hu
man ingenuity can cobble I
verily with such a wide scone of
ocdness to chodse from it does seeiri
queer now, doedn't it, that some wo
men are forced I to wear just one earf
ring at a time to attract attentioni
Just why yellow has always beeii
under a sort of ! stigma j as designating
the rotten streak in humanity typify
ing jealousy ana reminiscent only (of
biliousness or jaundice ! is hard to ac
count for now Itiiat it I has been wel
corned into the irma of fashion as on
of the most charming tints of the sea
son. Sunshine, beaten gold land fielda
of ripened wheat are only a few of
the lovely things it now reminds us bf.
Exquisite arei the. yellow crepe Ids
enme negligees, tnet pussy wniow tar
f eta and crepe lingerie lid maize tints.
Beautiful the gowns pf shimmering
yellow satin and the hats and narasoils,
blouses, stockings, slippers and gloves
all in the color
of liquid sunshine.
truly is up to all those who have ari
eye for the beAutlful nd artistio t4
forget its jaundiced past and with a
welcoming smile say f Hello yellow.
A Married Alan Said! This:
From the Philadelphia Ledger.
"Father, what la the ! meaning Iof;
'awe'T'
"The feeling hen-pecked man- has
toward one who isn't
rpu wifin ner irensii . r . i j I II - . r . t
sr-"nwm. J v.) -
In thei sketch is shown a charminc brown .silk jersey, long and.
1 full, and a good hat from Jeanne Lanvin, of black and white.
Goad Nature Is
Excellent Habit
By Elbert Hubbard
New York, March 20.' "Instead of
Good nature is a habit. J t is the
beauty of the mind. j- 4 :
And it wins, sometimes even in spile
of the positive deficiencies of its ioh
sessor. ,i. . ; .: !
- .A person may have culture i from
reading or travel, or genius- from re
flection; but no matter: how learned
he is, how big a genius he may be. lack
of -good nature decreases his: effec
tiveness and usefulness, or nullifies it
altogether. : - I :.(...
Men are great only as they are; kind.'
Give me a man, with sunny, cheerful
disposition and pleasant feelings
man whose blood Is warm within, and
who does not creep into the jaundice
by being peevish. r i ' v
For then I knoiy. I have one who rea
sons rightly,, who makes " allowances
for the failings of 'others, who distin
guishes that which . comes clonest to
excellence, and Is candid in bin opin
, ions.- ;! i , '
Also, he' Is the man who will carry
the message to Garcia for good natur-j
alwavs lmnlies the willingness to
serve. . i 'i
. Some men are oxycrations mixtures
of vinegar and water. s - i
The milk of human kindness Is
soured by the vitiating atmosphere of
suspicion; their minds I are manatled
by dogmatism, the mother of : doubt
They impale their friends bn tha
rapier of ridicule, ami lsh them with
the whip of sarcasm.. ; ,
Everything is going to the demnition
bow-wows; we are a nation of graft
era and arrabbers. ad. alii. men aire liars.
: Always on the lookout for ("ulter
ior motives," they still! rail to separ
ata itha asentlal from the accidental;
thejf trample both grain and chaff
undnoot. ' . i i .
Gbod nature sees the grain the bush
efeff chaff, winnows it, and is glad.
Gpod nature sees not only the imme
diate and the personal,: but the : ulti -mate-and
the collective.: : I
Good nature is the life blood: of lib
erty1, equality and fraternity It in the
genesis of co-operation,! :
v-i' ii ')'! -. 1
Our natures are as ivaried as the
food we eat. For even as the body
grows by what it feeds upon, ao doeq
the mind; and good nature is j a dis
position of mind and feeling. 1
Hence it is that the whispered word
of innuendo and the tittle-tattle: of the
dealer In tongue play sad havoc In both
private! and business life.
Good nature, by Insinuating Its fun
into our hearts, enables us to ejct this
poison from our system, j
And at the smile ecru gives place to
rose, and the merry laugh floods us
with sunshine. - i ! -
Good nature manifests itself in many
ways, and in some cases the good
natured person Is subjected to imposi
tion. - ' V:' '
Yet do they ever radiate happiness
and contentment, and command respect
Grouchlness does not; go. It, spelK
dissolution. And even i as an institu
tion Is the lengthened shadow of one
man, so Is a managerial grouch or dia
trustfulness mirrored in the mind am!
work fof every individual employe ; o'
that InstltuUan;
FubUc affairs are affected by the ex
ercise, or absence of good nature.
"The trade conditions of th-U coun
try are merely psychological", dure!
We've been suffering froiivhysterinU
of the ego."
We had sold In the blood and neurit!
supervened, V
But now wt! ur getting, proper ad
jiislrnfnt. Wp are beginning to "o
th nec8sl(y for harmony good HMt
.u re.
Jtegard for others," proper . perspec
tive, iputtlng ynurmdf In- Ihe. otlicr
man's place, rik'ht reasoning.
With Justice. to !l and charity to
ward none that Is true ood nature.
BUTTER-MAKING
Good butter Is ' generally 'expensive,
and it Is not always eany t get
especially ffiitHide of tlie large 'titlp.
Fevd farmers wlio rriuko sweet butter
tisejit tbtmselvi's; hf-y , mwrket Jt in
the cities. ;
Inl view of those faots it is strans
l hji" nmrM -housewives df not mak
buttt-r; for the vtufcm Is not at all
difficult.) !
Kvcn if you have no cow,- you will
find that If vou take a little extra
cream and set aside the surplus for
a few days, you can make a butter
that will be both delicious and eco
nomical. ! -
If you wish to .make only a smali
amount at a time buy a very small
chum.br one of the new process gutter
pans. If tho latter, pour tlie hitnm
Into the pan, which is filled with blot
ting pads.: .These : pads abHr.b tlif:
milk and water, so that the butter
needs very little working.
To start butter-making set the cream
that you have saved in a cool place,
and stir 'thoroughly whenever mon'
cream is added. It ought nbt to stand:
more than three daya, and .must b"t
be permitted to become bitter- and
flaky. , ,
When you have enougli cream .scald
the churn and dasher thoroughly, aiid
put in Ihei cream at a temperature of
48 degree.,Ht.burn steadily, and whn
the butter begins: to tome drop a littb;
ice into the chhrn to harden the 'butter
and make it easier to gathe.
After gathering it as well as pos
sible with th( ; da'aher, remove it to a
bowl or a table and work it thoroughly
with a flat wooden paddle. . Do not
work butter with the- hands, for n
matter how clean these may be, t hi
insensible perspiration ; will taint the
butter : more or less.
Use an abundance of cold water to
wah nut the buttermilk and harden
the butter. In this way the butter
milk is removed quickly, and it is not
necessary to work the butter long.
Excessive working injures the grain.
After the : working set the butter in
a. cool place, and several hcurslater
work it again quickly, to remove all
traces of buttermilk. The sweet but
ter then, will be ready for use. Kwii
it in a covered stone Jar In the milk
compartment of the Ice chest. It wiit
keep sweet about four days seldorn
for a longer period. .