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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (June 14, 1914)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, JUNE 14, 1814 French Fashion Notes CAPES IN MANY PHASES THE cap baa always been con sidered the most graceful of wraps, whether worn by the German army officer, the wan dering minstrel or a belle of 1830. There Is something fascinating and mysteri ous in its straight-hanging folds, which conceal the figure beneath, yet sug gest the lithe motions of the wearer. When the couturiers decided to in troduce the bouffant draperies, min aret tunics and bustle effects they were confronted with the problem of wraps. They selected the eton and bolero jackets, which, terminating above the waist JIne, left the skirt free be low, therefore avoiding an unbecoming line about the hips. These short jackets could not meet the requirements of the dressy after noon and evening costumes, so the cape wrap was designed. This is a success ful solution to the problem, for Its'' ample width covers the costume be neath in an artistic manner. These capes proved to be so unusually becom ing that the designers produced a va riety of models suitable for street wear, fashioned of cloth, silk or brocaded satin. Some of these models will serve for. both street and evening wear and are, therefore, a practical addition to any summer outfit. There are short shoulder capes and long cavalier capes, which envelop the figure to the ankles. The cape of- brocaded silk recalls the Interesting period of the renaissance, and the lovely model In this collection Is of magenta brocaded crepe do chine. This cape is unusual, for It is shorter at the back, forming long pointed ends In front. The medlcl collar Is of deep purple velvet, and the yoke, which -fits smooth ly over the shoulders, has a border of the same material. Satin of the same tone is used for the lining. A smart street hat of magenta straw, with a fantaisle of dark purple plumage trimming the front, is worn with this cape. . Vivid colors are favored for these capes, and the figure seated wears a charming cape wrap of emerald-green taffeta. The lower portion of the wrap Is gathered to a pointed yoke, and the flaring collar and bands trimming the wrap are of tete-de-negre velvet. It Is lined with a supple silk of the same fashionable color. The hat is a turban of tete-de-negre taffets faced with white straw. A single. pink rose adorns the side. When the capes are fashioned of cloth they are seldom lined, and the model with the grenadier straps across the front Is of this type. Chamois yellow suede cloth Is the material chosen, and the capo Is circular, falling In. full lines from the shoulders nearly to the knees. Bands of black satin trim the straps. This is an excellent model for the cape of black satin for evening wear. Its beauty would be enhanced by a bright lining of figured foulard or mousseline de sole. The little boat-shaped turban Is par ticularly chic, and Is of chamois-yellow hemp bound with black velvet. Two small white ostrich"1 tips are used for the trimming. If'.you desire a cape of exceptional beauty and - grace of line, choose the model of which the back view is given. This can be worn over the afternoon or evening frock, and will be effective If duplicated in any combination of col ors you may fancy. A rich wine-colored satin was selected by the designer for this particular cape, and corbeau blue velvet used for the broad collar and band about the hem. The lining is of corbeau-blue mousseline de sole. The close-fitting turban of wine-colored hemp harmonizes with the cape, for the turned-up brim is bound with corbeau-blue velvet, and pompons of os trich plumage in the same tone trim the front and back. Every woman will admire the military cape which competes this quintet. It can be worn wlttwequal success by the ' charming debutante or the stately ma tron and 'can be fashioned of silk or worsted materials. If you desire a cape for. practical wear, choose copper-colored velours de lalne and form the col lar and bands about the hem of black satin. Fasten the cape with a heavy silk cord and two large buttons. The ' cape should be lined with black satin. Seige or satin can also be used success fully to copy this model. The hat suggests the helmet of a grenadier and la of copper-colored straw. It is severely plain, but corresponds with the cape and will prove becom ing to most women. The home dressmaker should welcome the return of the cape, for she will find It so simple in construction that it can be fashioned in an afternoon. Thoso who would hesitate to' attempt making a coat need have no fear regarding a cape, for it will virtually make itself. Little fitting is required, so the as sis t 'ance of your neighbor is unnecessary. Whether you spend the warm months in the country or mountains, at the shore or at home, you will need a cape. There Is no time like the pfesent to make one. Seaside Attire THE woman who spends the hot summer months at the shore must provide an entirely different ward robe from the woman who migrates to uiuuiiiAjna or country. The shore calls for a variety of smart promenading costumes, for a great amount of the time lis spent on the ooarawaiK or on tnebeach. Paris de crees that striped serge, white home spa or serge, heavy white shantung silk or chamois-colored cloth be selected for the wslking costumes for seashore wear. The striped serges are varied in design, from narrow hairlines to broad awning stripes. Costumes of the latter are rather daring if worn in the city, but at the shore are extremely smart. One attractive model is of awning striped serge in tones of-flamingo red and white. It is fashioned with a long Dutch tunic, which Is side-pleated, fall ing In straight lines over a foundation of plain white serge. The short jacket of the plain serge, trimmed with the striped material, is fastened in front with a single button of flamingo-red porcelain. A broad girdle of red silk completes the costume. Another striking suit Is fashioned of striped black-and-white serge. A broad patent-leather belt Is worn with this mode, and a hat of white straw trimmed with black patent leather and lacquered wings. i - The all-white ' hat Is always In good taste for seaside wear, and the-most be coming models are of corded white silk or straw trimmed with white ribbon with a picot edge. . Parasols of white taffeta, with borders In vlviB coloring are in vogue. Some of these have long handles tipped with por- 0) 5. "5 celain or enamel to correspond with the border. Gloves of brilliant colors are worn with costumes of striped materials or with the all-white costume. Usually the gir dles are of the same color. Buckskin shoes with white soles and heels are the latest offering of the shoe manufacturers. Other models .have heels and borders about the top of leather in a vivid tone. Red, orange, green and yellow are the favored colors. About the New Hats THE latest millinery Is somewhat larger than the hats we nave been wearing. Broad flexible brims of straw, taffeta, tulle or lace are graceful in line, droop ing becomingly over the face. Ribbon and flowers are the favored trimmings, and they are arranged artis tically about the crowns. On one charm ing model of white straw the flowers are trailed over the brim, joining streamers of., pale blue tulle, which are tied beneath the chin. Quaint straw bonnets of the 1S30 type . have underbrims of taffeta or chiffon. Old-fashioned flowers of miniature size are clustered on the crown or about the brim. Tie-strings of black ribbon, velvet or tulle complete the artistic ef fect of these hats. In Paris the picture hats with trans parent brims of horse-hair lace are popular. These are simply trimmed witb flowers, tulle or ribbon. Garden hats of white or pale yellow chip- are flower trimmed and frequently lind with taffeta. There Is nothing so - becoming as a large picture hat for the summer gown of semitransparent materials. 4, SEEN AND HEARD AS YOU very likely know, it is quite the correct thing to wear all-white for mourning in the hot summer days. There Is a new note which is very smart and which some prefer to all-white, thinking that their sorrow and respect are more emphasized by the addition, that of wearing black-and-white or black artificial flowers at the girdle front. The effect Is ultra smart, yet meets with the ap proval of the most conservative fashionables. what do you think 4s the new est thing In underwear? Why, organdie and flowered at thatl Tk nonr nnnties can be had in any floral pattern desired, as can also nightdresses and camisoles. Some of the new drawers have pockets near their lower hems: pockets with clasps, that will conveniently hold one's powder puff, handkerchief or extra money that one might have along. It is to be hoped that the horrible habit of carrying things In one s stockings has gone out; but If It has not, the new drawers offer a most charming substi tute. Then there are pretty combination suits that look exactly like overalls, for they have mere straps over the shoul ders, and the shirt part Is but a straight piece of the material ending In two drawer legs. These overalls are made of Italian silk and have no waist line whatever, the soft silk taking up so lit tie room when it is crushed to the form by the corset. Leather handbags are taking the place of those of fabric. This is only nat ural, . as we have had fabric bags for an unusual length of time. As always. Fashion must live up to her reputation for fickleness. There Is scarcely a blouse that has not . the white flare organdie collar. Its pop ularity is doubtless due to its becom lngness as a frame for any kind of face, old or young. Some of these flare col lars are made In fine cream lace, and these are particularly becoming to the woman with a sallow complexion. - Fre quently the blouses with organdie col lars have turn-back, loose but unwlred - cuffs to match. Those with the lace flare collars often have frills of lace in the sleeves. -The new long tunic sometimes dips In the back and sometimes in the front. At other times It is the same length all around. (J 1 - V The flounced coats are not quite so popular as the designers intended that they should be, proving that there are times when even the feminine frills do not appeal to the feminine. The debutante slouch is fortunately giving way to an erect carriage that suggests the military, and there Is hardly a doubt that the lines of the fashions will change to suit this more normal figure line, White lingerie skirts are showing hand embroidery In colors. Some of them are of such sheer material that they surely will require another skirt under them. Usually, they are trimmed with a profusion of lace, with strips of embroidered material between. Some times the embroidery Is In the form of quaint pink rosebuds and sometimes in sprays of "forget-me-nots. One may have any design or color upon them that is desired, though all colors should be in their palest shades. Pointed Comments I T IS 'perhaps allowable to be sen timental in a sky-blue bonnet, but one must not cry in a pink one." "There Is but one way to wear a beautiful gown, and that is to forget it," says Mine. Emlle de Girardin. "There exists not a woman who does not possess at least one secret of the art of dress, and that secret she is sure to keep to herself." That which is new today may be but a revival of what is old, a reminiscence of the past. The axiom. There is noth ing new under the sun,' applies with special force to fashion." "It is not enough to be brilliantly at tired. The wearer must know how to make the very most of her attire. Fashion and coquetry , are twins." Smart Gleanings ; BLACK hats are now being so lac quered and glossed that one ob serving person has likened them to Japanese ' teatrays. Not only are the hats themselves glossed, but the trim mings shine and glitter in their black ness until this darkest of colors can no longer be called somber. Patent-leather trimmings are used. - Quills are cut from the leather, and also butterflies, while sometimes even : brilliant black roses are used. The leatherlike ribbon with Its stove-polish finish is yet used. hut it Is not considered quite so smart as at the beginning of the season. Jeweled veils are appearing. One woman noted for her ultra smartness ap peared with a veil of tiny mesh upon which was a beauty spot studded with a single brilliant. The smart walking skirt must be short and contain pockets, although " whether or not we are to bulge them with handkerchiefs, etc.. is a question which the well-groomed woman would possibly answer in the negative. Blouses of the most brilliant colorings are with tfs. They come in such colors as purple, cobalt blue, deep rose,, or ange and yellow green. Newest of the new is a very odd clown waist that fastens in the back and is finished off at the neck by being shirred to a slm- Jle cord. The clown waist is made in a arge-flgured material, such as one would expect to see upon a circus clown, and the sleeves are made full and -frilled at the bottom in a veritable clown ruffle of net. while net also fin ishes off the neck of the Waist in a fiat lay-down ruffle. All the waists of the . season should droop as though marie of as soft a material as chiffon. This, of course, means that when they are. . laundered they are not starched. The newest blouses are made quite full to conform with the low-busted corsets, the Intent being, indeed, to give an un 7 corseted effect. A roan slyly inquired if his wife had been obliged to resort to the use of the table linen for new . blouses when she displayed before him i two of her recent purchases. The ques tion was quite natural, for the damask of which these blouses were made was figured with large figures as nearly like the table-linen designs as possible. .True, they are more or less conspicu ous, these new blouses, but they are smart. The reason for a greater variety in footwear is that the present styles will not conceal the feet. Consequently, the shoe 'manufacturers are putting upon the market their best. Even when the skirts are not short they are so narrow that the feet must of necessity be very , much in evidence In walking. The new decree of short skirts for utility wear, and sometimes in the more elaborate dresses, will be an added incentive to the shoe manufacturers. We are all familiar with the laced tango slipper with its cothurnes. but the seemingly irresistible name of tango has been ap plied to a enost fascinating walking boot for mornings. A medical man has said that nothing more sane than 'the new corsets has come into Fashion's realm for a long time. The waist line of these corsets is large and the bust low. They are of such shape that full, deep breathing is possible. Now, who dares to say that the woria is not Decoming uoner i nuj time the pessimist gives such s dismal croak, tell him or her that Queen Elisa beth sported a thlrteen-inch - waist. Long may the comfortable corset con tinue! And may the rumors of the man, iiipped-in waist be long 1b ma terializing to our ultimate uneasiness! PARIS, June 4. DEATJVILLE, Ostend and Dieppe will soon claim their summer colonies, for when all Paris seems to be shopping It Is an unfail ing sign that vacation is at hand. Dozens of dainty frocks of sheer materials are being purchased for the resorts where fashion reigns su preme during midsummer. The mod els of batiste, swlss. "organdie - or lawn are trimmed with lace and bands of colored linen. The long tunic is paramount, and those , with scalloped edges are particularly . fa vored. The scallops are bound with narrow bias strips of linen, and the combination of white and lemon yel low rivals all others. Many of the tunics are side pleated, and a few models have shallow yokes with pleated bottoms. Gathered or pleat ed frills border some of the tunica Odd combinations of material and color appear in the new costumes. Green tussore and striped green, yel low and white heavy linen are used in one smart model. The bodice, hav ing a short, pleated basque, is of the tussore, while the skirt is of the striped linen. A wide band of the tussore trims the skirt. An innovation in the world of fash ion is the one-piece tango frock. It Is fashioned of silk or transparent material, and Is cut In one piece from the shoulders to the hem. A band of elastic confines the fullness at the waist line. Blouses of white crepe de chine are being worn by smart women. Striped pique, In tones of strawberry pink and white, delft blue and white or lemon yellow and white. Is used for the collar, cuffs and vests of these models. Olive-shaped buttons, match ing the color in the striped material, are used to fasten the vests. Wide-striped linens are popular for morning frocks. A model of yellow and white Is fastened with large white pearl buttons. A square buckle of pearl fastens the girdle of plain yellow. Larger hats are gradually making their appearance. The broad flexible rim of straw, horse hair, lace or pleated tulle commands special atten tion. A lovely model of loosely woven straw, faced with dark blue taffeta, has a wreath of pink camellias about the crown. This corresponds with a blue taffeta frock, embroidered with the same tone of pink. The two flounces on the skirt are edged with half-Inch bands of ' feathers. All-white hats of corded silk or straw have wreaths of white flowers, sometimes with yellow centers. The flowers are sometimes accom panied with foliage "witb shiny leaves. White and dark red currants are com bined artistically on a dainty hat of fine white straw. A bow of dark red velvet adorns the side. Small toques continue to have clusters of vari -colored flowers arranged on the high crowns or narrow brims. Parasols of mousseline and tulle are trimmed with clusters of small flowers All the couturiers are displaying a varied assortment of -long capes, which will be the fashionable wrap this season. Black chantllly lace la used to form the shorter capes, which fall over the shoul ders, and sometimes the flounce which edges the hem. Narrow black velvet ribbon Is combined with the lace. Derby-shaped hats of shiny straw, trimmed with burnt ostrich feathers or ?uills. are worn with coats which closely ollow the lines of the Prince Albert. The mannequins of Paquin are wear ing gloves of a contrasting color with their costumes, and many Parisiennes are following their lead. The oriental Influence continues in evidence where fashions are concerned, slask veils which tit over the eyes and nose are fashioned of coarse net, while some daring followers of the fickle dame are wearing bandages of tulle over the eyes with evening costume. A single layer of tulle is drawn about the head, and the ends are tied In a bow at the back. The mask veils for street wear are weighted with a band of chenille at the lower edge. Black-and-white combinations are in high favor, and a handsome dinner gown In the salon of Cheruit has a bod ice of supple black satin. The ekirt is formed of alternate flounces of white lace and tulle over a foundation of white satin. A broad hip girdle of blaok satin completes the smart effeot of this costume. Street dresses of putty-colored serge, with long pleated tunics, are much la evidence. Bands of flowered muslin are used to trim frocks of white ewlss. Many of the summer frocks have beaded borders on the long tunics, and the same design is repeated on the bodice. The girdle of Roman-striped ribbon re tains lis popularity and is worn -with frocks of sneer materials, as well as with those of taffeta or serge. Among the novelties recently intro duced are silk bose beaded in flower designs, each blossom being centered with a rhlnestone. The turban of straw or moire seems to be decreasing In size as the season ad vances, and the brims are scarcely worthy of that name. They are .seldom more than an inch or an inch and a 'half wide, and -extend beyond high crowns. The trimming on models of. this type consists of ostrich tips, wings or ribbon. The smartest lingerie frocks are de veloped of eyelet embroidery and are made with long tunics. One- lovely model has a very tight underskirt of supple white satin. Large crocheted buttons fasten the frock la front, and a girdle of the satin, with long sash ends, is knotted at the side. A modish afternoon costume of leaf green taffeta is fastened at the back with tiny ball buttons of the same ma terial. The only trimming used on this model is a collar of white organdie. Frocks of black taffeta are trimmed with narrow bead fringe In a combina tion of bright colors. Jeanne Lanvin has designed a num ber of fascinating capes for evening wear. Brocaded satin In tones of gold and bordeaux red fashions one model. The lining Is of plain bordeaux red and long tassels of dull gilt trim the hand some wrap. Quills are considered the smartest trimming for street hats. The all-white sailors with narrow brims are much favored by smart Parisiennes. One pretty hat is of corded white silk trim med with a ruche of fluted white ribbon. A long white quill Is placed at the side. Long black quills are used on a hat of currant-red straw. Tiny bunches of flowers in vivid col orings are the ornaments selected for the sailor hats of siik and straw. Cream tulle blouses have bretelles of white ribbon made to resemble a man's suspenders. On a few models the ribbon is figured In flower designs. . ELOJKE. .