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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Dec. 21, 1913)
I J For the SMAKLR O f C;0T Home Dres an top , i tfk t J . yiORDUROY and velvet eem to f reign supreme ever the other ; fabric used for afternoon cos i tumes. The Parlslennes adore the luxurious elegance of the supple, attractive material. There is scarcely . a new model whlcjj. does not show it as the predominating: material or in ;., some form of trimming, and the com , blnation of corduroy and tulle is ap ' proved by all the famous couturiers. The salient feature of all the smart afternoon toilettes of the present mo ment Is the tunic, and the models on thia page present a novel variation 'of this friendly theme. Tunics are ; long, short, pleated, gathered, draped and "circular, trimmed or plain. We And the tunic that finds its echo in the bedlce or that which contrasts with the skirt Another feature lately introduced on mart gowns is the high collar of tulle, mousaellne de sole or lace, fin ished with a pleated or gathered frill. ThU ts the rebound, which capricious fashion delights to take, from the extremely low-cut V and V-shaped decolletages so much favored. - The charming frock having the waist girdle Is of raspberry pink cor duroy. A gulmpe of cream-colored ' tulle accompanies the bodice, and the high collar has a frill of m aline lace. Narrow bands of skunk fur trim the bodice front and long sleeves. - Bullet buttons covered with the cor duroy, are attached to the outside edge of the sleeves. An unusual note is struck by the waistcoat girdle of tete-de-negre moire Bilk, adorned with rhlnestone buttons. Below this falls the full tunic, ar ranged to form a box pleat directly In front This gradually lengthens toward the back, falling gracefully over the slightly draped underskirt Ltmon yellow is one of the fashion able colors for afternoon wear, and the atunnlng frock with the Jacket shaped bodice is developed of cordu roy in this lovely color. The oddly shaped bodice Is worn Jumper-like over a gulmpe of ecru : lace with a modified Medici collar. Bands of magenta-colored velvet -outline the pointed yoke, and small bows of the same material adorn the sleeves and collar. The short peplum is cut away In . front to disclose a broad girdle of the velvet, and the pleated tunic is bor dered with ' a wide band .of the brll- ; liantly colored material. Thia cos tume should appeal to the woman who admires the unusual In dress, for one' would seldom find a more individual model. The effectiveness of the double tunic Is ably illustrated by the fascinat ingly girlish frock of bordeaux-red corduroy. White tulle is used for the i chemisette, high collar and subsleeves. The turned-down collar, cuffs and broad girdle are of nattier-blue vel- : Tet, which produces a delightful con- j m.n f : krmi w in trast of color. The two. flounces of the tunic are gathered and the under skirt, is slightly draped across the back. This model may be successfully duplicated In dark blue and gold, ame thyst and nattle- blue, or dull green and Egyptian rose. . An extremely attractive gown is the model with the embroidered sash gir dle. ' ' Leaf-green corduroy is the ma terial chosen, and the Vest of figured tulle has a rolled collar, wired about the outer edge. : t . A row of tiny silver buttons extends from the base of the neck to the waist line. The sleeves of the bodice are ex tremely short, and the full subsleeves of lace are gathered into narrow cuffs Just below the elbows. About the waist Is drawn a sash girdle of pale blue satin elaborately em broldered with gold and silver. This is pointed in front to resemble the peasant girdle, and long sash ends hang from the left side. The gathered tunlo has a broad band of the corduroy, with the wales running In horizontal lines, bordering the hem. The narrow underskirt has soft dra peries across the back. The remaining model is a handsome creation of tapestry-blue corduroy, and " extremely simple In construction. Beneath the bodice is worn a guimpe of finely tucked sheer white linen, with tiny bullet buttons of pearl adorning the front. . The turned-down collar, with pointed ends, and the cuffs finishing the long sleeves are also of the linen. An effect ive note of color is added to this cos tume by the girdle of corded silk In tones of mauve, beige and blue. These colors are perfectly blended, making the crowning feature of this gown. If you would search east of tne sun and west of the moon you could not find a more lovely collection of after noon frocks. They are appropriate for any Informal occasion and for street wear as well. Your outlit should contain one of these smart models to be worn beneath the long fur coat or wrap of velvet. f7 Jfrencf) Jfasifjton Jote PARIS. Dec. 11. ALREADY the holiday spirit is stalking abroad with Its wealth of Joyousness and benignity. Christmas parties are being given by the socially active, and both young and old are equally enthusiastic over the revival of ancient customs asso ciated with Yuletlde. Of no little importance is the selec tion of the holiday wardrobe, and the Christmas dance, as a rule, demands a new frock. Tango frocks for all dance frocks are fashioned with the demands made by this popular dance receiving due consideration are lovely enough to excite the admiration of the most critical debutante. A charming model designed by Cheruit Is of soft, white moire crepe de chine, with a tunic of orange-colored chiffon. This is artistically looped up in Botticelli fashion and is finished at the waist lfne with a broad girdle. About the neck and sleeves are used bands of skunk fur. Hats of black or tete-de-negre vel vet are noticed everywhere and in variably the trimming consists of odd feathers or ospreys. The soft-crowned hat with a short or moderately wide brim predominates. The long-walsted. coat, draped or pleated, with the fullness caught at the bottom with a band, seems to have taken Paris by storm. Another model launched by Paquln is comparatively short in front and hangs full and long at the back. Bands of marten trim the collar, cuffs and hem. Since, this coat of a decidedly different type has appeared those who regard the -kaleidoscopic changes of fashion with experienced eyes predict that the long, full coat will be a reigning mode next winter. v ', Never has there been such a selec tion of lovely blouses simply con structed of crepe de chine, chiffon or tulle. They all possess that floppy quality so desirable , nowaday and... have .the low-cut decolletages which have proved such a success. At -a shop renowned for Its exclusive- models Is a handsome blouse of white crepe de chine. The upper ' portion of the sleeves la an exten sion of the exceedingly deep yoke. A low, turned-down collar of black .vel vet and cuffs to correspond contribut ed the distinguishing note to this blouse. One of the loveliest evening frocks displayed by Callot Soeura has a foun dation of very pale pink crepe de chine. The bodice is of malinea lace of a delicate Ivory tint, and a Fer sian tunlo of pink chiffon bordered with fur hangs from beneath a gir dle of folded copper-colored satin. Flowers continue to play an Important part in costuming. Hardly a gown ap pears without its corsage bouquet Small fortunes are spent on these ar tistic clusters of artificial blooms. The long, transparent sleeve of tulhs, lace or mousseline de sole, with the fullness confined at the wrist with a double frill or a band of velvet, la much approved of. Smart costumes for street wear are of moire and velvet, ratine and serge, taffeta and velvet or velvet and tulle. Among the newest colors are raisin noir (dark raisin), with 1U lovely pur ple tones; dahlia red. almost black; Recamler green, prune and Persian blue. Parisiennes are wearing larger hats with afternoon costumes. They are very graceful in line and are of velvet moire or lace, with trimmings of fur or plumage. ) Quaint bonnets resembling the Em pire helmets or Phrygian caps are worn" by women with piquant features. To correspond with red fox furs, vel vet toques to match the Color of the fox are made for those desiring to be particularly chic , The all-white hat is also numbered among the -season's whims. Many , of the handsomest models are of" white astrakhan, baby lamb, fox or caracul. The ornaments selected for these are' black paradise aigrette or a rose of black velvet- . r - Bash girdles embroidered with vivid colors are used on gowns of black satin or moire. Frequently th girdle U of a contrasting - ooiorf- such. ,a.a ..cherry .red. madonna blue, bronze or green. ' Brilliants are extensively used to trim -exquisite evening gowna, and on several '' models of black velvet or satin, bands of brilliants over the shoulders ConsU- " tute the only trimming. , , On other models buttons of brilliants catch up the skirt draperies and trim the" broad girdles. Chiffon velvet of a brilliant green Is a favored material for dinner gowna. A striking creation has a tunic of black tulle embroidered with Jet and brilliants. Flame-colored velvet embroidered with dull gold Is fashionable for evening wraps. Bolero Jackets continue in vogue, and those of velvet are allied with cloth, skirts. Bordeaux-red velvet fashions a bolero worn over a chiffon blouse of the same tone. The skirt of this costume la oX bordeaux-red doth, with two flounces of the velvet Since many of the I860 .fashions have been revived, chiffon taffeta Is used for growns, blouses and wraps. Bands of fur and frills of tulle are the trimmings em ployed to make these gowns the hand somest on display for semi formal wear. Children are wearing coats of ermine, caracul, breltachwanz and moleskin. An extremely handsome model of car acul Is fastened with three ermine heads. The turned-down collar and -broad cuffs are of tailless ermine. Swansdown is used to trim the newest negligees, and the mote expensive mod els have fur bordering the hem, sleeves and collar. A charming matinee of white mousse line de cole has hands of white swa. run down and tiny satin buttons effectively used as trimming. - Handbags appear in many odd and at, tractive designs, a model of whit corded silk is drawn together at the base In pouch fashion and is finished with a large white tassel. 1 Poke bonnets of palest blue, pink or white moire are worn by the tots of 4 or 6. Narrow bands of ermine, flowers or tiny ostrich plumes and a frill of Val enciennes lace are the trimmings adorn- , Ing these dainty pieces of headgear. .-- The manikins sent out by a famous couturier are wearing gowns exploiting ; a modified conception of the bustle, so prepare tc accept this mode, which promises to usurp the popularity of the tUnlC . - -, One of Tli" novel features recently" to- troduoed on gowns Is the use of heavy :, silk cords threaded through embroidered eyelets. The tasseled ends are knotted or tied in bows, r Both bodices and skirts sue trimmed la this manner. BLOISE. h i if M k my xv, - H:VHtVJV f ':'.: I. t:y"..,.
