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. yiORDUROY and velvet eem to
f reign supreme ever the other
; fabric used for afternoon cos
i tumes. The Parlslennes adore
the luxurious elegance of the supple,
attractive material. There is scarcely
. a new model whlcjj. does not show it
as the predominating: material or in
;., some form of trimming, and the com
, blnation of corduroy and tulle is ap
' proved by all the famous couturiers.
The salient feature of all the smart
afternoon toilettes of the present mo
ment Is the tunic, and the models on
thia page present a novel variation
'of this friendly theme. Tunics are
; long, short, pleated, gathered, draped
and "circular, trimmed or plain. We
And the tunic that finds its echo in
the bedlce or that which contrasts
with the skirt
Another feature lately introduced on
mart gowns is the high collar of
tulle, mousaellne de sole or lace, fin
ished with a pleated or gathered frill.
ThU ts the rebound, which capricious
fashion delights to take, from the
extremely low-cut V and V-shaped
decolletages so much favored.
- The charming frock having the
waist girdle Is of raspberry pink cor
duroy. A gulmpe of cream-colored
' tulle accompanies the bodice, and the
high collar has a frill of m aline lace.
Narrow bands of skunk fur trim the
bodice front and long sleeves. -
Bullet buttons covered with the cor
duroy, are attached to the outside
edge of the sleeves.
An unusual note is struck by the
waistcoat girdle of tete-de-negre moire
Bilk, adorned with rhlnestone buttons.
Below this falls the full tunic, ar
ranged to form a box pleat directly
In front This gradually lengthens
toward the back, falling gracefully
over the slightly draped underskirt
Ltmon yellow is one of the fashion
able colors for afternoon wear, and
the atunnlng frock with the Jacket
shaped bodice is developed of cordu
roy in this lovely color.
The oddly shaped bodice Is worn
Jumper-like over a gulmpe of ecru
: lace with a modified Medici collar.
Bands of magenta-colored velvet -outline
the pointed yoke, and small bows
of the same material adorn the sleeves
and collar.
The short peplum is cut away In
. front to disclose a broad girdle of the
velvet, and the pleated tunic is bor
dered with ' a wide band .of the brll-
; liantly colored material. Thia cos
tume should appeal to the woman who
admires the unusual In dress, for one'
would seldom find a more individual
model.
The effectiveness of the double tunic
Is ably illustrated by the fascinat
ingly girlish frock of bordeaux-red
corduroy. White tulle is used for the
i chemisette, high collar and subsleeves.
The turned-down collar, cuffs and
broad girdle are of nattier-blue vel-
: Tet, which produces a delightful con-
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trast of color. The two. flounces of
the tunic are gathered and the under
skirt, is slightly draped across the
back. This model may be successfully
duplicated In dark blue and gold, ame
thyst and nattle- blue, or dull green
and Egyptian rose. .
An extremely attractive gown is the
model with the embroidered sash gir
dle. ' ' Leaf-green corduroy is the ma
terial chosen, and the Vest of figured
tulle has a rolled collar, wired about
the outer edge. : t .
A row of tiny silver buttons extends
from the base of the neck to the waist
line. The sleeves of the bodice are ex
tremely short, and the full subsleeves
of lace are gathered into narrow cuffs
Just below the elbows.
About the waist Is drawn a sash
girdle of pale blue satin elaborately em
broldered with gold and silver. This is
pointed in front to resemble the peasant
girdle, and long sash ends hang from
the left side.
The gathered tunlo has a broad band
of the corduroy, with the wales running
In horizontal lines, bordering the hem.
The narrow underskirt has soft dra
peries across the back.
The remaining model is a handsome
creation of tapestry-blue corduroy, and
" extremely simple In construction.
Beneath the bodice is worn a guimpe
of finely tucked sheer white linen, with
tiny bullet buttons of pearl adorning
the front. .
The turned-down collar, with pointed
ends, and the cuffs finishing the long
sleeves are also of the linen. An effect
ive note of color is added to this cos
tume by the girdle of corded silk In
tones of mauve, beige and blue. These
colors are perfectly blended, making
the crowning feature of this gown.
If you would search east of tne sun
and west of the moon you could not
find a more lovely collection of after
noon frocks. They are appropriate for
any Informal occasion and for street
wear as well.
Your outlit should contain one of
these smart models to be worn beneath
the long fur coat or wrap of velvet.
f7
Jfrencf) Jfasifjton Jote
PARIS. Dec. 11.
ALREADY the holiday spirit is
stalking abroad with Its wealth
of Joyousness and benignity.
Christmas parties are being given by
the socially active, and both young
and old are equally enthusiastic over
the revival of ancient customs asso
ciated with Yuletlde.
Of no little importance is the selec
tion of the holiday wardrobe, and the
Christmas dance, as a rule, demands
a new frock. Tango frocks for all
dance frocks are fashioned with the
demands made by this popular dance
receiving due consideration are lovely
enough to excite the admiration of
the most critical debutante.
A charming model designed by
Cheruit Is of soft, white moire crepe
de chine, with a tunic of orange-colored
chiffon. This is artistically
looped up in Botticelli fashion and is
finished at the waist lfne with a broad
girdle. About the neck and sleeves
are used bands of skunk fur.
Hats of black or tete-de-negre vel
vet are noticed everywhere and in
variably the trimming consists of odd
feathers or ospreys. The soft-crowned
hat with a short or moderately
wide brim predominates.
The long-walsted. coat, draped or
pleated, with the fullness caught at
the bottom with a band, seems to have
taken Paris by storm. Another model
launched by Paquln is comparatively
short in front and hangs full and
long at the back. Bands of marten
trim the collar, cuffs and hem. Since,
this coat of a decidedly different type
has appeared those who regard the -kaleidoscopic
changes of fashion with
experienced eyes predict that the long,
full coat will be a reigning mode
next winter. v ',
Never has there been such a selec
tion of lovely blouses simply con
structed of crepe de chine, chiffon or
tulle. They all possess that floppy
quality so desirable , nowaday and...
have .the low-cut decolletages which
have proved such a success.
At -a shop renowned for Its exclusive-
models Is a handsome blouse
of white crepe de chine. The upper '
portion of the sleeves la an exten
sion of the exceedingly deep yoke. A
low, turned-down collar of black .vel
vet and cuffs to correspond contribut
ed the distinguishing note to this
blouse.
One of the loveliest evening frocks
displayed by Callot Soeura has a foun
dation of very pale pink crepe de
chine. The bodice is of malinea lace
of a delicate Ivory tint, and a Fer
sian tunlo of pink chiffon bordered
with fur hangs from beneath a gir
dle of folded copper-colored satin.
Flowers continue to play an Important
part in costuming. Hardly a gown ap
pears without its corsage bouquet
Small fortunes are spent on these ar
tistic clusters of artificial blooms.
The long, transparent sleeve of tulhs,
lace or mousseline de sole, with the
fullness confined at the wrist with a
double frill or a band of velvet, la much
approved of.
Smart costumes for street wear are
of moire and velvet, ratine and serge,
taffeta and velvet or velvet and tulle.
Among the newest colors are raisin
noir (dark raisin), with 1U lovely pur
ple tones; dahlia red. almost black;
Recamler green, prune and Persian blue.
Parisiennes are wearing larger hats
with afternoon costumes. They are
very graceful in line and are of velvet
moire or lace, with trimmings of fur or
plumage. )
Quaint bonnets resembling the Em
pire helmets or Phrygian caps are worn"
by women with piquant features.
To correspond with red fox furs, vel
vet toques to match the Color of the
fox are made for those desiring to be
particularly chic
, The all-white hat is also numbered
among the -season's whims. Many , of
the handsomest models are of" white
astrakhan, baby lamb, fox or caracul.
The ornaments selected for these are'
black paradise aigrette or a rose of
black velvet- . r
- Bash girdles embroidered with vivid
colors are used on gowns of black satin
or moire. Frequently th girdle U of a
contrasting - ooiorf- such. ,a.a ..cherry .red.
madonna blue, bronze or green. '
Brilliants are extensively used to trim -exquisite
evening gowna, and on several ''
models of black velvet or satin, bands
of brilliants over the shoulders ConsU- "
tute the only trimming. , ,
On other models buttons of brilliants
catch up the skirt draperies and trim
the" broad girdles.
Chiffon velvet of a brilliant green Is a
favored material for dinner gowna. A
striking creation has a tunic of black
tulle embroidered with Jet and brilliants.
Flame-colored velvet embroidered with
dull gold Is fashionable for evening
wraps.
Bolero Jackets continue in vogue, and
those of velvet are allied with cloth,
skirts. Bordeaux-red velvet fashions a
bolero worn over a chiffon blouse of the
same tone. The skirt of this costume la
oX bordeaux-red doth, with two flounces
of the velvet
Since many of the I860 .fashions have
been revived, chiffon taffeta Is used for
growns, blouses and wraps. Bands of fur
and frills of tulle are the trimmings em
ployed to make these gowns the hand
somest on display for semi formal wear.
Children are wearing coats of ermine,
caracul, breltachwanz and moleskin.
An extremely handsome model of car
acul Is fastened with three ermine
heads. The turned-down collar and -broad
cuffs are of tailless ermine.
Swansdown is used to trim the newest
negligees, and the mote expensive mod
els have fur bordering the hem, sleeves
and collar.
A charming matinee of white mousse
line de cole has hands of white swa. run
down and tiny satin buttons effectively
used as trimming. -
Handbags appear in many odd and at,
tractive designs, a model of whit
corded silk is drawn together at the
base In pouch fashion and is finished
with a large white tassel. 1
Poke bonnets of palest blue, pink or
white moire are worn by the tots of 4
or 6. Narrow bands of ermine, flowers
or tiny ostrich plumes and a frill of Val
enciennes lace are the trimmings adorn- ,
Ing these dainty pieces of headgear. .--
The manikins sent out by a famous
couturier are wearing gowns exploiting ;
a modified conception of the bustle, so
prepare tc accept this mode, which
promises to usurp the popularity of the
tUnlC . - -,
One of Tli" novel features recently" to-
troduoed on gowns Is the use of heavy :,
silk cords threaded through embroidered
eyelets. The tasseled ends are knotted
or tied in bows, r Both bodices and skirts
sue trimmed la this manner. BLOISE.
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