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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (April 24, 1913)
Tin: . oivLGon daily jou 1 OUTLAIil), liy Lillian Young. ; The sketch today allows an attractive Uaek and white evening gown lncorv roiattntf several new features. The ftowins scarf sleevea or chiffon will probably attract the attention first. Tliesa have been Introduced with suo on gbma of the latest Imported . towns, and ore quaint and graceful, falling softly away from the arm and attending almost to the knees. , Aiv other feature, la the draped arrange , tmsnt of the skirt, one that -Is effective and not o difficult to achieve aa the liiOre complicated . arrangement. The ismterlal must be cut too long In front to allow of a 'deep tuck being taken in it midway of the length. This Is caught on the wrong side to some thin founda tion skirt so that the upper part pouches a, llttl just across the front over the lower part, which falls in natural draped folds around the feet. J.' In this model the skirt is of black rharmeuse. cut with a round train a'ri'd with edge joined down the center front, parting at the bottom ' to disclose the feet. ' There is a surpliced corsafre of white chiffon with very hort sleeves cnt in one with the side 'sections. The flowing sleeve drapery is caught to the sleeve end all around,, but with the . edges left open at the Inside scam, The tunic- of guipure lace is In the form of a sort of sleeveless bolero, with a: cutaway effect below the Waist,' and a point running high up over the bust on either side. : The pointed arrange ment Is" duplicated la the back, while the lower portion Is rounded well below the hips. A width of black maline Is crushed about the waist and run through HINTS TO SHOPPER By Vella . Baauty Slat ' Here's a secret for the stout lady: Bwlm! Tua girt and women who have the swimming crate are losing a pounJ ! of flesh per swim, Try It,; ' . . V', T "'"'An Antlqraa Tapestry, - Away up on Alder street there Is aa art shop and in that art shop, there is a tapestry and In that tapestry Is woven with wondrous grace and skill the story of Susanna and the lcrg . from thai Apocrypha. The central, figure s , tuo beautiful Susanna and on either side are elders, who after unsuccessful attempt to seduce the fair woman, did what they could to blacken her name, and when found out they were put to death, ac cording to Jewish custom. '.''.'. Tula, rare old Flemish tapestry date from the sixteenth century and was woven either In Brussels or Braba nt in, old Flanders, Age has softened th isreys, tana and old Dutch blues, thus making the tapestry doubly beautiful. Although worn in some places, it Is won-j dcrfully, well preserved. The central pk-ture- Is surrounded by a graceful floral border. The tapestry, which was purchased from the collection of the California artist. Charles Rollo Peters, measures 7x9 feet and is valued at sev eral thousand dollars.' Good Enouga to Eat. That's the way a perfect dream of an anricot satin. evening wrap I saw yes terday Impressed jne. 1 found It care- full v swathed In white tissue In that exclusive little corner shop on Alder street I may eem to be getting my fruits mixed a bit. but that apricot wrap in a perfect "peach." It is fashioned aftr the- graceful draped line of ,the resent day and Is lined with a loose tneshed erenadine over which Is vnrlnk led tint old fashioned roses. iiefdlv. the inside Is Just as lovty as Hie outside. I hope some striking Irunctte selects this for her trousseau. ; HotMng Unexpected, i This may not be new. but it's funny anyway. A young New Tork broker of convivial habits fell in with an old 6 Hiool friend who had entered the min istry. "Whenever you are In town come up and bunk with me." he urged the young dominie when they separated. "No ' matter what time It la, tf I'm not at home Just go ahead and make yourself "at home. I'll be sure to turn up before daybreak." .V". V'V -' " - A few weeks later the minister found himself again in the city, and so, think, ing to accept his old school friend's hos luilty, sought out his boarding-house . In answer to his ring a grlm-visaged landlady opened the door, "Does Mr, Pniith live here?" he falter d. "Ha eSZ'4- B Gives to food that peculiar lightness, sweetness, and delicious flavor noticed in the finest bread, cake, biscuit, rolls crusts, etc., which expert .pastrycooksdeclarejsjun the use of any other leavening dgent , . ::l!iericaii A' graceful evening gown of , black ' channelise. tha front, where It Is finished at one side with two rosettes. The design Is a suitable one for an elderly lady, and good, too, In style and line for a heavy figure. ; AND HOUSEKEEPER Winner does." snapped, the landlady. ; "Xou can brine him right In." , Painty Toll Was. A Washington atreet Jeweler who may always be relied upon to have the lateot arrivals In Jewelry fashions, showed me a great assortment of the vsry latest thing lo veil pins the other day. They are. really little gold hair pins topped with tiny pearls or pearls and diamonds. They are not only dainty and attractive but are extremely useful to the- woman Who keeps "her eil neatly pinned. .;-'.'' 'A Tasty Onloa Dish. The spring onion, which adds relish to arty meal at this season, may be pre pared aa Tollows: : Cut moderately large onions In. slices about half aa inch in thickness and rioce therA in a buttered baking dish or ' fndlvidual casseroles. I Season-with salt and paprika and bake until tender. Then cover thickly wltJ grated cjicese and return to, the oven until the cheese is melted and of a del- cate brown. Kith or perve In the baking dish or remove to a hot platter. " Baby Flowers Arrive, , Thla week witnessed the very f 1m t arrival lit the local flower shops of baby gladlolaa and the minmture rose, . the Cecil Bruner. The very first out-of-door lilies of the valley appeared In an at tractive Sixth . street flower, shop th's week, too. Za fashion's Mirror, Bracelet ribbon-strapped sleeves are a pretty note in many of the sheer sum mer gowns. Gloves actually have gathers in the wrists to harmonize with the craze for draped gowns. ,v ; ; ; ' The wool eponge coats are seen in bright colors as well as In the navy and taupe of service. SUGGESTIONS FOR THENEWLYWEDS . lif Margaret Hubbard Ayrr. "Matrimony is a fine art. To criticise it properly one must see It at a dis tance, then one can find the email flaws that sometimes spoil the master piece. " ;; -''.V'"- Mrs, Ieabelle Kellie a New York writer and business woman, who ' has been euccessful at many things, includ ing matrimony, gives lier ideas on this subject to the newly weds. "A happy marriage is made up of little sacrifices on both sides. When these sacrifices are appreciated by the other hair they turn in to mutual pleas ures. "It takes a great deal of thought to ROYAL ateirag ,r from Royal Grape Cream of Tartar, and absolutely pure. HlllkO tt i'illl! illt. of II 1 H I li HII1I1V. l't'W jlinni; niiirrifii jx-oi1( nre willing to Mdnl.v each oiln'r'a ik'CiIs wiiil make al low iiiii cx for (icli other. Murrled coil- fiimii nt't into the linliit of order lux each ollur nhimt without saving 'iilcnse' end 'tlntnk you. A woman will do many little nervier for a in an If he voices his wants politely and the sum Kjiplics with etjunl .truth to the other wx. "- - , "Gfiionilly one. 'finds when a niarrlage is not Jdtttl that the couple Ht'e suffering from too nmcli of each .other society. In the ''day's , when most . people , lived in houses surrounded by gardens the lini'8Sf ci hero or heroine could flee Into the in-ho r and indulgo In the luxury of solitude. But thm'o la no such thing as Holltuilo In the modern f lut. . And every human bi'injr feels the need of, being alone and aoMoiutely quiet at times. Love Doesn't Bar Politeness. "Love should not be" a bar to polite ness and. the fact that one is married is no good excuse for forgetting those small phrases that go with a request such as 'Do you mind?', or -'Will you be kind enough?'.' which one would never omit to a stranger and which smooth the rough places wonderfully. "There is such a thing as seeing too much of one another and I have known of many couples who aeem to forget that a man needs the companionship of other men Just as a woman craves that of other women., "Once the honeymoon is over I think that a man should be allowed ne night a week for his club or his friends, providing that the, companions ara of the right kind, of course. It .Is a good thing for him to see other," men than those he meets In business. "On the, other hand I thin t later on when there are children, and a -woman has no nurse for them the father could arrange to. take f charge of them one evening a week and give the mother an absolute rest, 'an evening jff to go to the theatre or sea her friends and fam ily, Of course, a man says that she has the entire' day to herself, but a jvoman with small children has not a minute day or night to call her. own, unless some one else take the charge of the children." - - - GOOD BEVERAGES ; Jly J. A. lluslk, M. D. Of . the several beverages used at meals cocoa and chocolate ara the two that have food value. Cocoa is the fruit of toe cocoa tree, which grows In abundance in the tropical countries. Chocolate is made from . cocoa beans by the addition of sugar and some starchy materials. - Cocoa grows in the form of a bean and several rows of these beans are held together in a single pod. When re moved from the pod the beans are al lowed to undergo a process of fer mentation called ''sweating," and are then exposed to the sun to dry In or der to develop their fine flavor. Roughly speaking cocoa contains 22 per cent of protein matter, that Is vegetable meat; 29 per cent of fat, and nearly 39 per cent of starch. , .' t Together with the sugar and milk used in the preparation of the beverage It becomes a highly nutritious as well as palatable drink. Tea and coffee are wholly devoid of all , nutritive sub stances. "They- ara used entirely for the flavor, and, moreover, they ara stim ulants, and as such are frequently harmful, while cocoa and chocolate are practically free from any atlmulatlng effects. ..;. "Vvv-i.. : From what has been said it Js easy to see. that though relatively- cocoa and chocolate are dearer than tea or coffee, yet as foods they ara cheaper. Speaking of the value of cocoa the famous Ger man food chemist, Llebig, has said: It is a perfect food, as wholesome as delicious. It is highly nourishing and readily digested, and is fitted to repair wasted strength, preserve health and prolong Ule. ; - . v " t . A very cheap form of cocoa .is. that made from cocoa Bhells. It is prepared In the usual way, and sis nutritious as well as cheap and wholesome. Cocoa Is adapted or the use of most people. There are some with whom the beverage does not agree well, and causes indigestion. But this la the exception rather than the-rule. Children take cocoa with benefit, and for them it should always take the place of tea or coffee. ' ; - , . The Ragtime Muse All Bound the Year. Eunice whlled away the spring Teaching me the game of love; Doleful is the song I sing - Uunlue proved a fickle th.'ng . As the April skies above. Elsa In the summer time Drew me till my spirit burned And my pulses beat irt rhyme With the malady sublime But her former flame returned. From Its atn my wounded heart In the autumn Esther coaxed, Then upset love's apple cart Flirting was her dearest art Ah, but 1 was sadly hoaxed. rz"H"- Helen, of the passing year, Could not like the others be; Yes, I thought with not a fear Surely she must be slncere But. she now has jilted me. Do not chide me If I sigh, For my heart has sorely bled; Who can woman's wiles defy? Truly, 'tis a shame that I Arh so easily miss-led. . At the close of last year there were more man ea.ouo auiomoDiies, ' mors than 2,000 motorcycles ' and nearly 3,000,000 bicycles in use in France. t owaes" , MISS ESTHER CLEVELAND DENIES EN3.".C,E;.ENT ii" " "41 I " V 5 - t ' ' ' ' ' ' I . ' ' -s ','1 ! I -. y t ' Y 4 ' I I t t x I ' "' ".' '.V 1 I ,;' 1 v ' s-fWl 1 m. . M Miss Esther Cleveland, daughter of ex-President. Grover : Cleveland, who, with her mother, Mrs. Thomas F. Preston, denies rumora ot her engagement. , . .' " . FAMOUS WOMEN OF HISTORY Charlotte Bronte, 1816-1855 , v By Willis J. Abbot. (Copyrighted 1?1J.) A bleaker home scarce could be painted than the rectory of Haworth. In which tnarlotte Bronte, :wlth her tal ented sisters, Emily and Anne, grew to maturity, aspired, tolled and won each her measure of fame and died. Cresting a gray hill with a gray church to one side and the churchyard with gray tombstones on the others, Its front windows looked down upon a little gray village, will) e on every side the moor rolled away to the horiaon on gray billows dotted here and there with gray patches that told of the grazing sheep. The thought of thla broad,, free moQr and upland was ever wun tnarww, and In her pages one breathes it. fh hroflth of the moors fresh blown O'er leatrues of clove and cold gray ..... stonfc. - .-"' .- In this bleak house abode for a time six children, scions of an Irish rector whom It would be the part of charity to call eccentric. - Their mother died early; the father, a man of mooas ana wholly . self-centered, gave dui uih thought to the youngsters, and what he gave was scarce stimulating. Having all his own meals served In the priyacy of his study, he Imposed upon them, the strictest vegetarianism, potatoes and norridee helne the extent of. their feasts. Simplicity-' ta dress he also enforced by such drastic measures as throwing out of the window a pair of bright colored shoes, the gift of a. neighbor, or tearing an offending silk dress to shreds and thriiKtinff it Into the fire. v However, the children loved, him, and It Is not for a mere observer of their household life to condemn. Certain It is, however., that something about his nafornal methods was fatal. Two of tii fiva elrls died earlyfairly starved and chilled Into consumption at a cheap school . to which their father had sent them, and which, to Judge from their brief references to It, must have re aembled somewhat the famous or ln-?amoui-TJotheboys Hall.- The - home circle then consisted of Charlotte, Anne, rmnv and the brother Branwell, a bright lad of whom much was expected, but upon whom fate descended with a h.aw hand, and who after a ' life of a i m-nation, somewhat due to a dis graceful and miserable love affair, died as the result of delirium. Curiously enough, on the day of his death his mind was normal, his conduct calm. Consclhua that a weak will had led to th waste of hla life, he Insisted on showing his final will power by dying standing; and ha did thus face death on his feet, hla blind father praying in a corner, his sisters weeping anu unpior ing him to return to his bed. Of the three girls all were unusual, all perhaps touched with genius, though whence It came or lvow It was nurtured cannot be discovered by a study of the crotchety father or the narrow horizon hot Vinnrtded their youth. All wrote, and well. Emily's novel, "Wuthering Heights," has a terror and an unfolding of passion that keep It alive today. Anne's novel, "Agnes Gray," was suc fPKrfut at the moment, but possessed less of permanent power than the writ ings of the other sisters. It is, however, with the most notable of the three sisters, Charlotte,-that this sketch has chiefly to-do. Older than the other two, she bad shared with them the chill gray life of the Haworth vicarage, and with' Emily had enjoyed a taste of school days in Brussels, whitber the two went to fit themselves to open a girls' school at, their home. ' The girls' school never , materialised, to their piti ful disappointment;. Despite ' ardent endeavors pupils could pot be lured to that lonely moor. But the taste, of a wider life ltf Brussels broadened their minds, and furnished the theme for Charlotte's "Vllletta" which some es teem her best rbmance. : ; Writing continuously, the three girls kept' the post busy with outgoing manu scripts the publishers kept It equally T)tir:trrtTTnr-hm bulk. Jtut-oae-daj a much battered manuscript, ""The Pro fessor,'.' by Charlotte, which lid made the rounds, came back from Messrs. Smith Elder, declined again, - ti ' .be Buret but accompanied by so kindly a letter of appreciation that she vowed lo twite a book that should not be de clined. ' She outlined the plot to her sisters that very night. "You can't make a book successful with a homely heroine." said on. . "I will," responded Charlotte em phatically., "Til show? you a heroine as plain and small as jnyfeif who shall be as interesting as any of yours." From that , resolve proceeded "Jane Eyre," and very quickly . all England was readlif '"tlie book and wonderin who waa the '"Currer BelT'-who signed It Critics were in ' the .main kindly. "How well I remember," . wrote Track-, eray, '"the delight, "wonder and pleasut,e With which. I read 'Jane-Eyre.' sent to me by an unknown author whose name and sex were then alike unknown to me, and how, my own "work pressing upon me, 1 could not. havlni taken the vol umes up, lay them down until they were read through." Her father, confronted with the vol ume, and earnestly assured that his daughter had not been obliged to pay for Its publlcatlon-wtbe sisters had shortly before paid 150 for the publica tion of a volume of verse retired to his study to read it When he emerged it was with this verdict: "Girls, do you know Charlotte has been writing a book, and it is much better than likely!" The success of "Jane Eyre" brought Miss Bronte to the attention of the lit-' rary world, but her retiring disposi tion, debarred . her from much soclty. She caljed on Harriet Martlneau, who remarked: "I thought her the smallest creaturV I ever saw (except at a fair), and her eyes biassed, as It seemed to me." Thackeray she . met at a recep tion. "He is a man of very quiet de- WOMAN'S ILLS DISAPPEARED Like Magicaf ter taking Lydu E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound. i North Bangor, N. Y. "As I havt used Lydia E. Pink-; ham's Vegetable Compound with great benefit I feel It my) duty to write and tell you about it I was ailing from fe male weakness and bad headache and backache nearly, all the time. I was later every month than I should have been and so sick that I had to go to bed. i - "Lydia $ Pinkham'a Vegetable Com-' pound has made me well and these trou bles have disappeared like magic. I have recommended the Compound to , many women who have used it success-, fully."--Mr8. James J. Stacy, R.F.D. J No. 3, North Bangor, N. Y. I Another Made TTell. Ann Arbor, Mich. "Lydia E. Pink ham's Vegetable Compound has done wonders for me. Fop years I suffered tefribly, with hemorrhages- and had pains so intense that sometimes I would faint away. ; I had female weakness so bad that I had to doctor all the time arid never found relief unil I took your remedies to please my husband. I recommend your wonderful medicine to all sufferers as I think it is a blessing for all women," Mrs, L. E. Wyckofi. 112 S. Ashley St, Ann Arbor, Mich. -JIlicreeed-ha.nauLtboat-th9 ability of this grand old remedy, mada from the roots and herbs of our fields, to remedy woman's diseases- We possess volumes of proof of this fact enough tt convince the moat skeptical. Why don't you try it? - mmfFm""il iifwi itHiaa-t ia t ii I'.uKrl U, ... tliNl rust, J i i -cnliiir; tun in ! (i rt II ltd f l ll lien l:i vi-i y lf t l be ilt !lfiii tit.'' I lowi-ver, !lirr m hy t ii n t o Hlic pil l worth. Hho cilJ ,i iii'tivtllcM vvcin few; . i re-rl tin quiet of 1 la not feel with Jlrs. Urownlng How dreary 'tis for women to nit still on winterviilKhta by militiiiy firea And lifwr tlie nations lu-alHlng tliem, far off.. To her solitary fire came first death, for her two remaining slHters died a scant half year apart; then love, for the curate of her father's parish sought her in marriaReV The blind and selfish father would not for a time hear of It, but. in the end consented. Happy niie was Is the new life, hut the happiness was short lived, for wedded In June she did In March. .When one has read of the cheerless life she had led and the sore measure of affllcatlon that entered Into it, one reads with sympathy her as surance to a friend: "I find my hus band the tenderest nurse, the kindest support, the best earthly, comfort a woman ever' had." Harriot Martlneau summed her up as one with "the deep intuition of a gifted woman, the strength of a man, the patience of a hero, and the conscience ofa saint." ; PARIS SUFFRAGISTS By Vida Sutton. It would be difficult ! find a more brilliant group of women than the Farlslenne suffragists. Their organiza tion t reojeirt, but their ,"work ls of the most' practical kind;;.;' ; v', Mme., Vincent, the "president of the French Union for Woman Suffrage, is the founder and editor ot. the Feminist Library, a seriaji of ; books; that , gives information t to women on alj subjocta. There Is a volume devoted to theeyom an who must earn her living, and for her benefit every field that la open t 'women : is described, the " preparation necessary, outlined and salaries stated. It Is tbess facts concerning women's work which show the Inequalities under which she labor that have aroused such interest on the part of the suffra gists and directed their efforts. Mme. Brunswick, the society's secre tary. Is conducting a series of lectures on the subject with the assistance of several other women, . v - Mrs. Susanna Grunbexg, a lawyer In the court of appeal, presents the In equalities In the penal code. Madame Odde-Deflou, president of a society of women whose purpose is to study the ciyll law, presents the subject from that standpoint. The inequalities of the law regulating morals are presented by Mme. Avrll de St. Croix. This most delightful woman Is president ot the National Council of Frenchwomen, the largest woman's society In Franca. Her society has gone minutely Into the mat ter of cheap labor and has a center which supplies needlework to women at a living wage. I Perhaps the most prominent feminist In Paris is Mme. Jane Noslnev She Is ' editress of La Journal Francalse, the feminist newspaper of France. Phe has a column devoted to law and legislation as it affects women. .She Investigates the lives of shop, girls, domestics, etc., women workers ; whom women them selves abuse, and gives first hand ac counts of their, lives. - Her advertising columns contain notices of recommend ed shops only, of approved schools, theatres nd cinema entertainments. , Mme. Okra Is another sufrraglst who Is doing a hovel thing. As secretary of the National Congress of Women, she Is conducting a series of visits to; all of the social Institutions or Paris, that women may see first, hand what the social needs of the city are. In the propaganda for suffraga the women work in cooperation with tfie Men's league. There Is the one object universal franchise. They hold their meetings at the Free College of Social Science. And they maintain that the Artistic Player-Pianos At Low Cost A truly artistic Player-Piano, one that will sat isfy the most exacting musician, that is capable of the very finest pianistic effects, that is ex tremely simple in its mechanism and its control, and, best of all, that can be sold on " easy pay ments at the price of the better class of upright . pianos, has long been the highest desire of the manufacturer, dealer and the music lover. ' , The Euphona Player-Piano Price $485 ' -- - A splendid combination of player and, piano! each up to the minute in design,, appearance and musical quality, is the most notable accomplish ment yet brought out to meet this great demand, The Euphona Player-Piano is the product of one of the most celebrated American factories, ' The Cable Company," an organization noted for the merit of its instruments, the thoroughness of its work and its progressiveness. r " . By alLmeans examine carefully, test fully this Player-Piano before your decision, is made. You will be amply repaid. It is sold on very easy payments. ' . , ,- , . . ,V - . TONIGHT Julia Culp, the Princess among Lieder , Singers, Heilig Theatre. Mason & Hamlin Piano used, . VICTOR TALKING MACHINES AND RECORDS ' MORRISON STREET AT BROADWAY Tli.-- Miikimr' tliii.K tlc tnovi- turrit In l''iaiici in tin- i-nllre 'aliM'tic of Ki'K AiitaKOiil.'.ui. TIh-ho v. iiiiK ii in ii not trying lo wrest tlieir rllitn froiii man, but lo cooia-iaca witli them ful .social jirosresa. 00 Tciulu'i- After l Jobs. Si lul to Tin' Jminiiil. t Alieificen, WmhIi.. Auiil IM. Over SOfl applications bo far have been reeeivei from teachers who want positions in tliq Aberdeen schools.' There, wMl be from 16 to. 20 rcHiBiialioiis of teachers who are to be married in Juno. $25 Given A,way Win a Casli Prise by Em broidering one of theae , Pillow To with Richardson's PrUe Bilk. Grand Two prizes, $1S and $10, given for best work done with Richardson's Grand Prise Silk in our Embroid ery Contest. . . Buy one of these Tillow Jops otv 'sale tomorrow and stait'hnw. Stamped on pure linen, finished with fringe bt Jbdth ends. Friday and Saturday,.',, : i . , , $1 Tops 79c Richardson's Graad Trias Embroidery Silk, special Friday and tiuturday three Skeins 104; " Ask for Details -of Needle work, Ooatest-i75 In prises. THE NEEDLE CRAFT SflOP ' 334 . 383 TAHHIXZ. Two Blocks West Broadway The atore 120 6th St BETTER QUAXIIT ' -. Hair Goods V1EE FREE M. SOa Sna of Faoe Pswder rlv -an away anna tnu -a.:- $12 8wll-ht, 32 lorhH separate... v.. M.M I 7 KwltclH'e, Si-ln. separate... ...M.IO f 5 switehea, 124-liieh. S Mprte......fl,7 f S All Ilouod 22-luh Hraiitforniotlcm HAb 'Uenta" Tiipea to order..... i .n.114.00 Lsitlts Wigs te order. ...... . 10 U MM Mall Orrtwrs carefully attended to. We match blr when -other fall. The Hair Store, 120 th 8t Bear Waih. '1 JZ?