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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 21, 1912)
" nrvr ... - ..... .C'SJg"11 -r-z? 5 m mr n-H mm -mm m. -m m, - mmr taw g mm - ar -mm i m a m a s 1 1 a ai mm a . . . as. . . . ft ?ri V y-5' .VS5 The Useful Overall I F TOV hve an hour, 6r perhaps less, to upend in embroidering, here are eome suggentlone thai will Just fill the bill. You can take a llt- tie ttm on the porch or btwn other dutl? of the day and mak theae llttlt articles of neckwear, or use the other prays on underwear, panela and blouses. I recognize how summer work should be anything but tedious, and liera Is an excellent opportunity to tnakt lit' tie gifts, llttlt article for sale per haps, without overtaxing your eyes arid nerves. ' The double Ub for the front e-f a. shirtwaist is easily made and very ef fective, the dm ted lines stiRteet the shape of the under tab and should be used when you trace out the pattern on medium-weight linen, fad the petals An Unusual Hat AVERT exclusive French enop shows an unusual hat, Imported recently from tarls one that most women who are clever at doing fancy work snd love to trim then- own hats can easily copy. It was a large white chip picture hat; the crown ami hunt Were coveted with maize-colored chiffon, applied by cutting a circular piece of chiffon about six lncheslHpger than the circumference of the hat, then hemmed th the edge and a silk-covered wire run through the hem. This wire was sewed on the undsr brlm, about a half Inch back from the edge. th. f,,Hn. ht ehlffnn n than caught at irregular Intervale on the crown and brim, held In place With small clusters Of flowers crocheted With bright-colored Woolen yarn. Some of them were tiny blossoms, Jua't five little shells crocheted around a central point and Joined to a few mall green leaves that had been cut from dark green Velvet The colors in the flo were were rich reds, yellows, blues In varying shades, but ail having the mellow tinge of the orient. Some were fashioned Of gold thread, but most of them were wool. On the left side, placed at the bate of the crownTwas'a TiluiUrBriaTfeT gfo-" chetedflowera and leaves wired to stand to the height ot the crown, while some of them rested well down On-the brim. That was al(, but.tfii Ifftct was dis tinctive and altogether charming. Well worth, copying, if one has tme for suc! Matt"0rtqtt4 lv ""usual tWfli - , , . 1 -, "'7"7' " "' "'.""',"" 11 '. . ' " "" i mi , , .. . . : ml ii mill i "" iii 1 " 1 un.i i ' - And work in snlld etltj, Work th imi In outllnt stitch nd u French knot In t lie mnall round eeedi. The de should he paddrd and button- ijiM. This is gooa in wlilte, or m mny eelor, and Is so quickly mad that you ran make one to carry out a schema of your drew. The little r abet i art unusually pretty this rear. They are ither shaped or can be pleated in at the center and caught under a little buckle of ribbon, lace or linen. The leaf design consists of nothlhg but fine outlining for the veins ana bttt totihollhg around the edge. When you make the daisy design you can vary the effect with eyelet work, with solid etltches for the leaves jfmd outlining for the stem. An Attractive Sash ON'tS of the most attractlvw .-ashes 1 have seen this season was made of pale green aatln ribbon eight Inches wide, folded In several narrow folds and encircling the waist in a father narrow band. in the center of the back is a flat bow Willi two loops and two long ends that reached almost to the hem of the skirt. These ends ettch had three lace medal lions, graduated In slse, set in, the small est one at the top, t thought what an easy thing It would be tor a young girl to make for herself, for the price ef this "sash was quite be 4'ohd the meatus of a Woman Uh a slender purse. Fold the waistband ribbon en a Straight piece of belting and catch It down underneath with silk matching the ribbon In color, and tew hooks and eyes on each end of this to fateh it around the waist. Fin the lace medallions In place and sew them down firmly on the edge with fine white cotton then cut away the rlbbbh underneath, leaving about ft quarter 6f an Inch to turn back and whip down oh the wrong side, s that no frayed edges of the ribbon wilt show through the lace, sew the ends to the ribbon-covered - bet t m r, -t hew - he hetrstsir-ttiemfiii -the.eaih is reai!y to wear. , . The same kind of a cash without ir Inssrs, but With each end Mgetl With deep silk fringe, makes an attractive sash-to wear with a summer frock. You Will find it quite a simple matter to make yourself" one of these pretty, sashes If you are fond of needlework and have what is known aa "good taste," '-THE OREGON SUflDAr JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, JULY 21, 1912 The rme design on the lib 1 very beautiful if the edges are worked In solid Mitch and nil In the spaces with small seed stitrhse. The leavel ana buds are to be don tolld and th Stem in outline. Another daisy rabat Ii shaped for you, The method is similar to that which 1 suggested for the first design. A chCIc between eyelet and solid work Is yours. A combination of these Is very good. The motif of daisies ie lovely When traced on the front of a WoUS, espe cially if combined with lane. Just this mtle embroidery lit front and on the top of each sleeve Will give the touch Of handwork at such a little expenditure of time that you should not neglect the Opportunity. For nanow panels on a biby flress, SOME ATTRACTIVE BATHING IV you are not prepared for the gum mrr outing In the Way of bathing dress, you had better begin to con sider the matter seriously, for this is a very important Item In the wardrobe and should be selected with care, Attractive bathing costumes can be bought at any of the large shops i but If you are fond of leWlhg.-lt Is much cheaper to make your own, Patterns you can always buy; but it you have a blouse pattern that fits nicely and a four or six gore skirt pattern, you can do very nicely without the expense of an extrs one. it Is best to make the skirt Join the. blouse at the normal waist line, fo4n the matter of a bathing drett they look far better than the hlghwalsted effects, Bathing dresses of silk, aatln and taffeta have almost entirely taken . the place of flannel, serge and cotton materials. Mohair Is still used exten sively and Is very serviceable! but eatlft end taffeta take first pi see and are trimmed In many attractive ways, the use ot soutache braid being, perhaps, the moil popular. 4f yon he e eewmg maehmt with braiding attachment, it I a simple mat ter to trim the dress In an elaborate manner; but it Is best to tllng to the simpler styles, even In trimming, Of course It is best Is Vise silk sou tache on a silk or satin dress; but the mercerized braids do not shrink, and really look very well when stitched with silk. From Farlt comes aa at r on th strip between insertion on a blouse, the little spray is easily used snd flnoet effective in the solid French em broidery. I have had designed for your under wear a pretty Uttia wreath in which you ran put your Initial. This Is worked in Solid work on corset rovers, nightgowns ftd combination. It is also efferti" worked with colored ribnona un pin cushions, little begs and lingerie cape. If done on net. th tracing should b made on tissue paper, basted under thn net and the embroidery done right through the paper, whloh can be torn away afterward. . - 1 think that I have supplied your leisure hours with little things that will give much effect In the deonrative field at a pleating effort during summer moments, tractive cult that can easily be copied at home. It Is of black taffeta, the plain bodice Joined to the plain skirt at the normal waist line with a narrow black patent leather belt, and an em broidered sailor collar and little pointed cuffs of while linen. A straight, panel extends the length of the front, and this la trimmed with soutache stitched In straight lines across, plaoed about two Inches apart and joining In ths center With a email loop and black silk but tons, The effect la extremely pretty though plain. - ' Another Suit of black satin has a bib and apron panel In the front, and this Is braided In small squares covrnnn Its entire surface. This suit Is made to fasten In the back with small flat bone button that are concealed by a two-tmh-wlde box pleat, which ends in a point at the top ot the tour-inch hem. The outline of the round neck and short gletvea la finished with two lines of braid. Cravenette-gloria, a waterproof silk In a deen wine color, Is made with a nlaln bodice and eklrt. The neck and sleevea are outline! . wlLh.acallopa.if. braid matching the material. The skit t is made with a short tunic cut In scal lops and edged with braid, and the hem of the skirt has scallops of braM stitch ed upon It. Another very elaborate suit of brown satin has the blouse and oversklrt worked with brown soutache in an all- N OVERALL, or on-plee apron. which can be slipped on or off at moment's notice, is always use ful and (jtiito aft indispensable posses sion to the girl Who must help with the housework and perform duties of a more or less aerlnus nature, Two lengths of yard-wide malarial, measuring frnrn the shoulder to the hem of the eklrt, are retired in the making, one length is folded through the renter for the front, snd Is cut out rounding at the neck, with narrow pieues forming straps for ths shoulders; the other length is cut lengthwise through the center, e that the sel vage edges can be ued for the hem eai-h. side of the back, and the cut edges Joined under the aim to the front. The back Is cut out under the arms and at the neck exactly as the front, and the edges bound or faced wUh ble atrlps, T ha aeaw un4r-the arm Is curved slightly, In order to make It fit the figure, and the back Is closed With five or six plain bone b-.itlOBI. Make French scami when Jolhlng shoul deia and finish the bottom with a three Incli hern. A patch pocket, five Inches wide and six inches deep, is added to the right hand side nf the front. The neck, arm holes ami pocket may b out lined with white or colored braid or bias hands of some rontntatlhg material. I'se ging ham rr pefcfils for making an overall nf this description, and be sure to make It long enough to entirely cover the gown. COSTUMES over leaf design. The oversklrt Is made with a panel front and back ending In a deep point, but cut off straight on the Sides. A little inset yoke of ecru eatln having over it a narrow round colhir of Irish lace adds a decidedly pretty touuh to the garment. Soutache stitched on In a latticework design trims a dark blue mohair ault, and &' front panel on a green taffeta suit is braided In bayadeted stripes wllh black and la flanked on each side With points of aiik held down with email black silk-covered buttons. When stitching braid on any material, always have the design marked plainly, in the case of straight lines, thla oan be done Wllh a lead pencil and ruler, but a design or scallop should be traced or atft iiped on the material. When stitching on the machine, do not start at the extreme end of the marked de sign, but leave an eighth of an inch ot hi aid to ha tumid under ari caught down by hand, itand-Mwed braid must be treated in the earn manner, if you would make the work neat and free of loose ends pull- aog, out tbe jmorntnun. f wneni Js Remember when making a bathing dress that the work must, he carefully executed or you will surely have trou ble rrom careless stitches the first or suceM tltTiS you wear it into the surf, river or Take. . ' And now. good luk to you .im-tha making of a braided bathing dress, Feathers of Fringe THS woman whose pure It slim and . whose desires are great will wel come the fact that feathers made of fringe are fashionable. A fringe feather toundt funny, doeg It nOtf But It It not a bit queer looking; unusual, perhaps, an very graceful. What woman. In her Innermost soul, does not cherish a passion for the long, beautiful ostrich plume? How many can afford to give that passion free rein? A few years ago women were satis fied to bedeck themselves In curly ostrich feathers that measured twelve or fourteen Inches, sornetlmee less, and wsre quite happy With them; but now long "willow1- plumes measure from eighteen to thirty slx Inches. 4nd cost many times the amount Of the email natural feather. Theaa Jangroatly plumea being out of reach of many, a beautiful substitute has coma to ua from Paris, and these are quite easy to make at home, if you can wield a needle. For an elghteen-lnrh plume you will require one yard asd a half of wide fringe, six or. eight Inches deep, a piece of round tllk-covered milliner's wire eighteen inehes long, heavy and strong, and half a yard of Inch-wide aatia ribbon the color of the fringe First of ail. cover the wire with the ribbon, sewing It very securely and keeping the team straight i now to the ribbon-covered wire three rowe of fringe are sewed, covering the seam In the ribbon and leaving a narrow atrip of ribbon to show, that will correspond to the rib on the natural feather. Great care must be taken In tewlne? on the fringe, as the whole appearance of the feather depends upon It; it must be done neatly, concealing the stitches at much ti possible. Having the fringe attached to the wire, one end the top ef the feather must be bent over In a curve to re semble the natural curve In the real feathers; then, with a heated curling Iron-nearly evey woman hat one, and if she Is blessed with naturally curly hair and does not need one, It can be bought for a few cents at any dry gjbds store the endt of the fringe are curled Inward, Just a little way, and then shaken out until they are fluffy and as near like the real feather as It Is possible to make them appear. There you are the work Is all fin ished, and the feather ot fringe Is ready to be sewed on to yeur hat, where It will droop over the brim In a most fascinating manner. The charm, of this homemade feather lies In the fact that the cost is very small and that you can Indulge in any color you wish, matching the hat Itself or the gown with which It is to be worn. Why not make one of them, snd trv the effect on the midsummer or early fail hat? A Buttonhole Hint IN NBARLf all of the ready-to-wear shirtwaists and lingerie blouses gold In . the shops the buttonhole wllf he cut parallel with the opening, and it there is the slightest strain on them when the blouse la wern they will either come unfastened or wllLgape open In v mostjlscouragint wgy. , - - 7" There is really fia wayoemeiiy "thit fault in the bought waist unlesa-vou are Able to match the material and rut away the ttrip of material having the button holes In It and ttltch on a new place, in which you can work tha buttonholes ' . horisontaUy, aa should always be dona . on evry blouse that la to b worn but- ' toned in tha back - 1 Sketch Embroidery; ) Is'Popular HAVB you teen tha new "aketch' embaoldery that it finding aucb wide popularity with devotees ot the needle and embroidery hoop? r -This nsw form of embroidery it dona with very heavy oottont and a long . darning needle with a large eye that win enable the worker to take long atltchet on the upper tide of the mate-' rial in tueh a way aa to give tha ap pearance of having the work aketche4 . upon the material. - Only loosely woven materlalt aboul4 be used in thlt work, unlets It la - dona under a magnifying glass, and even that it hard upon tha Worker" eyes. - - - - -- --4- - It It quick an eaty work; for all the tmbroldery 1 la on the . aurfaee ot th material, nothing but the finishing end coming on the under side. Heavy linen, scrim and even burlap are the proper materials to nea. They make pretty bed and couch covers and scarfs for bureau and dresser and cur tains suitable to decorate the summer bungalow or library, bedroom or alttlng room. ' The effect of. the finished work it tomewfiat like stencil drawing, but pot eesset the advantage of being wasbabla and also of wearing well-- The designs must conform more of ' less to conventional lines, ' since the needle must follow the weava of the goods; but a great variety of designs can be found among the stencil patterns. The cottons used for working must bo, heavier than the threads of the'rnate rfal, softer than the threads of scrnt and a little fuUnesa mutt be allowed, fq . Shrinkage when the article It washed. After the design is stamped or ouf--lined upon the material, begin at the lower right-hand corner to work, xnak ing a knot In the thread on the under side and drawing the thread through te the, right tide. Take a long tlc (about one-half inch), then catch, '.uj a single thread of tha material and pro ceed another half-Inch until the ppd slte border of the design It Machewp This makes a straight line serosa the design, broken only by '.the tiny thread j of the material. For the second Una of embroidery, let the thread form a..llWo half-circle, like a plcot edge, by catch tng up another thread in the matertat , -aa you tart.bwk;, UitAJTJiMCJBitJtoi, line, catching up a thread directly over the one on the first line. . . , .. J In this way the work proceeds mtQ the entire design It filled in. In a leaf these stitches cad ba mad to form a vein; they always look- ajt tractive, no matter where they-ara placed. " - Ke sure to put the material - to' fca worked In an embroidery hoop before beginning, and then keep it ttretched tight over the hoop while Working. Many pretty ideas can be worked VP -, iv thii methn Tha -ftft -t gyfrUr done, and you can make curtains, couoft covers and scarfs for bureau and dresser In your Bedroom "In a horttrme, i t , Conventional designs, remember, are best and easiest for beginners, and a loosely woven material to work upon, " How to Transfer, j HERB) are euggestlont' for trftuv ferrlng the patter before yoi to any material before working. Perhaps tho easiest way il tha -window-pane" method. Thit It successful when the material It thin, like linen, batiste, etc. Pin the sheet of paper and the material together and . hold them up agairrst the glass of a win dow, with a sharp pencil draw on. the material the design, which can be easily seen through the goodt. Ir one-half of the detlgn only be given, unpin the paper and turn the other aide to the fa brio. The strong light behind Will make it plain. . :. If you have carbon paper, you thouM place the sheet between your fabric and the newspaper. The latter is on 4ti WitH a sharp pencil go over th outline nf the design. The-impression wnl b left In fine lthet and win last "until worked. This method la successful on hesvy material, ' ,-1 The last way Is also easy. On was paper or ordinary tissue paper trara the pattern before you. When the de sign I completed, turn over ths patx-r J and outline th pattern with a heavy t lead pencil. Then place the ' deslsrt down on the fabric and redraw the out-' J line, pressing hard with the pencil. Th" ', pattern will be transferred without dif ficulty. ,,- Surely the way la easy.. Eyelets - WHB making eyelets of f!tj.r cotton or silk thread draw (M loop of the thread over a mat r h s),, imWvW-fabioin')!"ws ' ; ; -key end work Wit buttonhole iucl ', the loop -Ml It hat beeSTsnUrely r ' r sredr VThie' will make the eyiu . .. form ".and orrct ai," besides r,ir. aiy way t d the ererk an-! .'catching, ths! fteodit'lri .thi tv-- toe material..'.. ' V vr v."
