The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, July 21, 1912, Page 65, Image 65

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ft ?ri V y-5' .VS5 The Useful Overall
F TOV hve an hour, 6r perhaps
less, to upend in embroidering, here
are eome suggentlone thai will Just
fill the bill. You can take a llt-
tie ttm on the porch or btwn other
dutl? of the day and mak theae llttlt
articles of neckwear, or use the other
prays on underwear, panela and
blouses. I recognize how summer work
should be anything but tedious, and liera
Is an excellent opportunity to tnakt lit'
tie gifts, llttlt article for sale per
haps, without overtaxing your eyes arid
nerves. '
The double Ub for the front e-f a.
shirtwaist is easily made and very ef
fective, the dm ted lines stiRteet the
shape of the under tab and should be
used when you trace out the pattern on
medium-weight linen, fad the petals
An Unusual Hat
AVERT exclusive French enop shows
an unusual hat, Imported recently
from tarls one that most women
who are clever at doing fancy work snd
love to trim then- own hats can easily
It was a large white chip picture hat;
the crown ami hunt Were coveted with
maize-colored chiffon, applied by cutting
a circular piece of chiffon about six
lncheslHpger than the circumference of
the hat, then hemmed th the edge and
a silk-covered wire run through the hem.
This wire was sewed on the undsr
brlm, about a half Inch back from the
th. f,,Hn. ht ehlffnn n than
caught at irregular Intervale on the
crown and brim, held In place With
small clusters Of flowers crocheted With
bright-colored Woolen yarn.
Some of them were tiny blossoms,
Jua't five little shells crocheted around
a central point and Joined to a few
mall green leaves that had been cut
from dark green Velvet
The colors in the flo were were rich
reds, yellows, blues In varying shades,
but ail having the mellow tinge of the
orient. Some were fashioned Of gold
thread, but most of them were wool.
On the left side, placed at the bate of
the crownTwas'a TiluiUrBriaTfeT gfo-"
chetedflowera and leaves wired to stand
to the height ot the crown, while some
of them rested well down On-the brim.
That was al(, but.tfii Ifftct was dis
tinctive and altogether charming. Well
worth, copying, if one has tme for suc!
Matt"0rtqtt4 lv ""usual tWfli
- , , . 1 -, "'7"7' " "' "'.""',"" 11 '. . ' " "" i mi , , .. . .
: ml ii mill i "" iii 1 " 1 un.i i ' -
And work in snlld etltj, Work th
imi In outllnt stitch nd u French
knot In t lie mnall round eeedi. The
de should he paddrd and button-
ijiM. This is gooa in wlilte, or m mny
eelor, and Is so quickly mad that you
ran make one to carry out a schema
of your drew.
The little r abet i art unusually pretty
this rear. They are ither shaped or
can be pleated in at the center and
caught under a little buckle of ribbon,
lace or linen.
The leaf design consists of nothlhg
but fine outlining for the veins ana bttt
totihollhg around the edge. When you
make the daisy design you can vary
the effect with eyelet work, with solid
etltches for the leaves jfmd outlining for
the stem.
An Attractive Sash
ON'tS of the most attractlvw .-ashes 1
have seen this season was made
of pale green aatln ribbon eight
Inches wide, folded In several narrow
folds and encircling the waist in a
father narrow band.
in the center of the back is a flat bow
Willi two loops and two long ends that
reached almost to the hem of the skirt.
These ends ettch had three lace medal
lions, graduated In slse, set in, the small
est one at the top,
t thought what an easy thing It would
be tor a young girl to make for herself,
for the price ef this "sash was quite be
4'ohd the meatus of a Woman Uh a
slender purse.
Fold the waistband ribbon en a
Straight piece of belting and catch It
down underneath with silk matching the
ribbon In color, and tew hooks and eyes
on each end of this to fateh it around
the waist.
Fin the lace medallions In place and
sew them down firmly on the edge with
fine white cotton then cut away the
rlbbbh underneath, leaving about ft
quarter 6f an Inch to turn back and
whip down oh the wrong side, s that
no frayed edges of the ribbon wilt show
through the lace,
sew the ends to the ribbon-covered
- bet t m r, -t hew - he hetrstsir-ttiemfiii -the.eaih
is reai!y to wear. , .
The same kind of a cash without ir
Inssrs, but With each end Mgetl With
deep silk fringe, makes an attractive
sash-to wear with a summer frock. You
Will find it quite a simple matter to make
yourself" one of these pretty, sashes If
you are fond of needlework and have
what is known aa "good taste,"
The rme design on the lib 1 very
beautiful if the edges are worked In
solid Mitch and nil In the spaces with
small seed stitrhse. The leavel ana
buds are to be don tolld and th Stem
in outline.
Another daisy rabat Ii shaped for you,
The method is similar to that which 1
suggested for the first design. A chCIc
between eyelet and solid work Is yours.
A combination of these Is very good.
The motif of daisies ie lovely When
traced on the front of a WoUS, espe
cially if combined with lane. Just this
mtle embroidery lit front and on the
top of each sleeve Will give the touch Of
handwork at such a little expenditure
of time that you should not neglect the
For nanow panels on a biby flress,
IV you are not prepared for the gum
mrr outing In the Way of bathing
dress, you had better begin to con
sider the matter seriously, for this is a
very important Item In the wardrobe
and should be selected with care,
Attractive bathing costumes can be
bought at any of the large shops i but
If you are fond of leWlhg.-lt Is much
cheaper to make your own, Patterns
you can always buy; but it you have a
blouse pattern that fits nicely and a
four or six gore skirt pattern, you can
do very nicely without the expense of
an extrs one.
it Is best to make the skirt Join the.
blouse at the normal waist line, fo4n
the matter of a bathing drett they
look far better than the hlghwalsted
effects, Bathing dresses of silk, aatln
and taffeta have almost entirely taken .
the place of flannel, serge and cotton
materials. Mohair Is still used exten
sively and Is very serviceable! but eatlft
end taffeta take first pi see and are
trimmed In many attractive ways, the
use ot soutache braid being, perhaps,
the moil popular.
4f yon he e eewmg maehmt with
braiding attachment, it I a simple mat
ter to trim the dress In an elaborate
manner; but it Is best to tllng to the
simpler styles, even In trimming,
Of course It is best Is Vise silk sou
tache on a silk or satin dress; but the
mercerized braids do not shrink, and
really look very well when stitched
with silk. From Farlt comes aa at
r on th strip between insertion on a
blouse, the little spray is easily used snd
flnoet effective in the solid French em
broidery. I have had designed for your under
wear a pretty Uttia wreath in which you
ran put your Initial. This Is worked in
Solid work on corset rovers, nightgowns
ftd combination. It is also efferti"
worked with colored ribnona un pin
cushions, little begs and lingerie cape.
If done on net. th tracing should b
made on tissue paper, basted under thn
net and the embroidery done right
through the paper, whloh can be torn
away afterward. . -
1 think that I have supplied your
leisure hours with little things that will
give much effect In the deonrative field
at a pleating effort during summer moments,
tractive cult that can easily be copied
at home. It Is of black taffeta, the
plain bodice Joined to the plain skirt at
the normal waist line with a narrow
black patent leather belt, and an em
broidered sailor collar and little pointed
cuffs of while linen. A straight, panel
extends the length of the front, and this
la trimmed with soutache stitched In
straight lines across, plaoed about two
Inches apart and joining In ths center
With a email loop and black silk but
tons, The effect la extremely pretty
though plain. - '
Another Suit of black satin has a bib
and apron panel In the front, and this
Is braided In small squares covrnnn
Its entire surface. This suit Is made to
fasten In the back with small flat bone
button that are concealed by a two-tmh-wlde
box pleat, which ends in a
point at the top ot the tour-inch hem.
The outline of the round neck and short
gletvea la finished with two lines of
Cravenette-gloria, a waterproof silk
In a deen wine color, Is made with a
nlaln bodice and eklrt. The neck and
sleevea are outline! . wlLh.acallopa.if.
braid matching the material. The skit t
is made with a short tunic cut In scal
lops and edged with braid, and the hem
of the skirt has scallops of braM stitch
ed upon It.
Another very elaborate suit of brown
satin has the blouse and oversklrt
worked with brown soutache in an all-
N OVERALL, or on-plee apron.
which can be slipped on or off at
moment's notice, is always use
ful and (jtiito aft indispensable posses
sion to the girl Who must help with
the housework and perform duties of
a more or less aerlnus nature,
Two lengths of yard-wide malarial,
measuring frnrn the shoulder to the
hem of the eklrt, are retired in the
making, one length is folded through
the renter for the front, snd Is cut out
rounding at the neck, with narrow
pieues forming straps for ths shoulders;
the other length is cut lengthwise
through the center, e that the sel
vage edges can be ued for the hem
eai-h. side of the back, and the cut
edges Joined under the aim to the
front. The back Is cut out under the
arms and at the neck exactly as the
front, and the edges bound or faced
wUh ble atrlps, T ha aeaw un4r-the
arm Is curved slightly, In order to make
It fit the figure, and the back Is closed
With five or six plain bone b-.itlOBI.
Make French scami when Jolhlng shoul
deia and finish the bottom with a three
Incli hern.
A patch pocket, five Inches wide and
six inches deep, is added to the right
hand side nf the front. The neck, arm
holes ami pocket may b out lined with
white or colored braid or bias hands of
some rontntatlhg material. I'se ging
ham rr pefcfils for making an overall
nf this description, and be sure to make
It long enough to entirely cover the
over leaf design. The oversklrt Is made
with a panel front and back ending
In a deep point, but cut off straight on
the Sides. A little inset yoke of ecru
eatln having over it a narrow round
colhir of Irish lace adds a decidedly
pretty touuh to the garment.
Soutache stitched on In a latticework
design trims a dark blue mohair ault,
and &' front panel on a green taffeta
suit is braided In bayadeted stripes wllh
black and la flanked on each side With
points of aiik held down with email
black silk-covered buttons.
When stitching braid on any material,
always have the design marked plainly,
in the case of straight lines, thla oan
be done Wllh a lead pencil and ruler,
but a design or scallop should be traced
or atft iiped on the material. When
stitching on the machine, do not start
at the extreme end of the marked de
sign, but leave an eighth of an inch ot
hi aid to ha tumid under ari caught
down by hand,
itand-Mwed braid must be treated in
the earn manner, if you would make the
work neat and free of loose ends pull-
aog, out tbe jmorntnun. f wneni Js
Remember when making a bathing
dress that the work must, he carefully
executed or you will surely have trou
ble rrom careless stitches the first or
suceM tltTiS you wear it into the surf,
river or Take. . '
And now. good luk to you .im-tha
making of a braided bathing dress,
Feathers of Fringe
THS woman whose pure It slim and .
whose desires are great will wel
come the fact that feathers made
of fringe are fashionable.
A fringe feather toundt funny, doeg
It nOtf But It It not a bit queer
looking; unusual, perhaps, an very
What woman. In her Innermost soul,
does not cherish a passion for the long,
beautiful ostrich plume? How many can
afford to give that passion free rein?
A few years ago women were satis
fied to bedeck themselves In curly
ostrich feathers that measured twelve
or fourteen Inches, sornetlmee less, and
wsre quite happy With them; but now
long "willow1- plumes measure from
eighteen to thirty slx Inches. 4nd cost
many times the amount Of the email
natural feather.
Theaa Jangroatly plumea being out of
reach of many, a beautiful substitute
has coma to ua from Paris, and these
are quite easy to make at home, if you
can wield a needle.
For an elghteen-lnrh plume you will
require one yard asd a half of wide
fringe, six or. eight Inches deep, a piece
of round tllk-covered milliner's wire
eighteen inehes long, heavy and strong,
and half a yard of Inch-wide aatia
ribbon the color of the fringe
First of ail. cover the wire with the
ribbon, sewing It very securely and
keeping the team straight i now to the
ribbon-covered wire three rowe of fringe
are sewed, covering the seam In the
ribbon and leaving a narrow atrip of
ribbon to show, that will correspond to
the rib on the natural feather.
Great care must be taken In tewlne?
on the fringe, as the whole appearance
of the feather depends upon It; it must
be done neatly, concealing the stitches
at much ti possible.
Having the fringe attached to the
wire, one end the top ef the feather
must be bent over In a curve to re
semble the natural curve In the real
feathers; then, with a heated curling
Iron-nearly evey woman hat one, and
if she Is blessed with naturally curly
hair and does not need one, It can
be bought for a few cents at any dry
gjbds store the endt of the fringe are
curled Inward, Just a little way, and
then shaken out until they are fluffy
and as near like the real feather as It
Is possible to make them appear.
There you are the work Is all fin
ished, and the feather ot fringe Is ready
to be sewed on to yeur hat, where It
will droop over the brim In a most
fascinating manner.
The charm, of this homemade feather
lies In the fact that the cost is very
small and that you can Indulge in any
color you wish, matching the hat Itself
or the gown with which It is to be worn.
Why not make one of them, snd trv
the effect on the midsummer or early
fail hat?
A Buttonhole Hint
IN NBARLf all of the ready-to-wear
shirtwaists and lingerie blouses gold
In . the shops the buttonhole wllf
he cut parallel with the opening, and it
there is the slightest strain on them
when the blouse la wern they will either
come unfastened or wllLgape open In v
mostjlscouragint wgy. , - -
7" There is really fia wayoemeiiy "thit
fault in the bought waist unlesa-vou are
Able to match the material and rut away
the ttrip of material having the button
holes In It and ttltch on a new place, in
which you can work tha buttonholes '
. horisontaUy, aa should always be dona
. on evry blouse that la to b worn but- '
toned in tha back -
Sketch Embroidery; )
HAVB you teen tha new "aketch'
embaoldery that it finding aucb
wide popularity with devotees ot
the needle and embroidery hoop? r -This
nsw form of embroidery it dona
with very heavy oottont and a long .
darning needle with a large eye that
win enable the worker to take long
atltchet on the upper tide of the mate-'
rial in tueh a way aa to give tha ap
pearance of having the work aketche4 .
upon the material. -
Only loosely woven materlalt aboul4
be used in thlt work, unlets It la -
dona under a magnifying glass, and
even that it hard upon tha Worker"
eyes. - - - - -- --4-
- It It quick an eaty work; for all the
tmbroldery 1 la on the . aurfaee ot th
material, nothing but the finishing end
coming on the under side.
Heavy linen, scrim and even burlap
are the proper materials to nea. They
make pretty bed and couch covers and
scarfs for bureau and dresser and cur
tains suitable to decorate the summer
bungalow or library, bedroom or alttlng
room. '
The effect of. the finished work it
tomewfiat like stencil drawing, but pot
eesset the advantage of being wasbabla
and also of wearing well--
The designs must conform more of '
less to conventional lines, ' since the
needle must follow the weava of the
goods; but a great variety of designs
can be found among the stencil patterns.
The cottons used for working must bo,
heavier than the threads of the'rnate
rfal, softer than the threads of scrnt
and a little fuUnesa mutt be allowed, fq .
Shrinkage when the article It washed.
After the design is stamped or ouf--lined
upon the material, begin at the
lower right-hand corner to work, xnak
ing a knot In the thread on the under
side and drawing the thread through te
the, right tide. Take a long tlc
(about one-half inch), then catch, '.uj
a single thread of tha material and pro
ceed another half-Inch until the ppd
slte border of the design It Machewp
This makes a straight line serosa the
design, broken only by '.the tiny thread j
of the material. For the second Una of
embroidery, let the thread form a..llWo
half-circle, like a plcot edge, by catch
tng up another thread in the matertat
, -aa you tart.bwk;, UitAJTJiMCJBitJtoi,
line, catching up a thread directly over
the one on the first line. . . , .. J
In this way the work proceeds mtQ
the entire design It filled in.
In a leaf these stitches cad ba mad
to form a vein; they always look- ajt
tractive, no matter where they-ara
placed. " -
Ke sure to put the material - to' fca
worked In an embroidery hoop before
beginning, and then keep it ttretched
tight over the hoop while Working.
Many pretty ideas can be worked VP
-, iv thii methn Tha -ftft -t gyfrUr
done, and you can make curtains, couoft
covers and scarfs for bureau and dresser
In your Bedroom "In a horttrme, i t ,
Conventional designs, remember, are
best and easiest for beginners, and a
loosely woven material to work upon, "
How to Transfer, j
HERB) are euggestlont' for trftuv
ferrlng the patter before yoi
to any material before working.
Perhaps tho easiest way il tha -window-pane"
method. Thit It successful
when the material It thin, like linen,
batiste, etc. Pin the sheet of paper
and the material together and . hold
them up agairrst the glass of a win
dow, with a sharp pencil draw on. the
material the design, which can be easily
seen through the goodt. Ir one-half of
the detlgn only be given, unpin the
paper and turn the other aide to the
fa brio. The strong light behind Will
make it plain. . :.
If you have carbon paper, you thouM
place the sheet between your fabric and
the newspaper. The latter is on 4ti
WitH a sharp pencil go over th outline
nf the design. The-impression wnl b
left In fine lthet and win last "until
worked. This method la successful on
hesvy material, ' ,-1
The last way Is also easy. On was
paper or ordinary tissue paper trara
the pattern before you. When the de
sign I completed, turn over ths patx-r J
and outline th pattern with a heavy t
lead pencil. Then place the ' deslsrt
down on the fabric and redraw the out-' J
line, pressing hard with the pencil. Th" ',
pattern will be transferred without dif
ficulty. ,,-
Surely the way la easy..
Eyelets -
WHB making eyelets of f!tj.r
cotton or silk thread draw (M
loop of the thread over a mat r h
s),, imWvW-fabioin')!"ws ' ; ; -key
end work Wit buttonhole iucl ',
the loop -Ml It hat beeSTsnUrely r ' r
sredr VThie' will make the eyiu . ..
form ".and orrct ai," besides r,ir.
aiy way t d the ererk an-!
.'catching, ths! fteodit'lri .thi tv--
toe material..'.. '