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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (April 21, 1912)
K TROUSSEAU ACCESSORIES count for much In calculating the success ot th trousseau of a brld today, and the glr whd la planning what ahe Is to have shd how to expend the money at her disposal to the beat advantage- will put almost aa much thought into the little things aa the does on the bridal gown Use". . ' Happily for her, the majority of these little things are handmade and can be. fashioned by the girl herself at odd moments Or during the leisure evening hours. Her sacheti," for exatnpfte, are all made by the girl herself Or by derated friends. Twenty, even' ten years ago, th bride's girl friends wo6ld make large sachets of quilted satin, covered with plain satin that was decorated with elaborate embroidery or hand painting. Fortunately for the brjde of today, that fashion Is no longer with us. . for sachets are now mads of the thinnest china silk or fine handkerchief linen They are cut double.' of course-, and have a. sheet of very thin wadding, be tween ; but they oeoupy . such a small amount of space that several, with their contents, can be carried in a suitcase, with room to spare. A very lovely one, designed to hold dainty lingerie, is made of pale blue china silk thirty-six Inches long and eighteen Inches wide, double. Between the two pieces of silk is laid the cotton wadding, thickly sprinkled with th bride's favorite sachefr The' silk which is to be the Inside of tba, sachet is caught to the wadding; at Intervals with tiny stitches to hold the ' wadding in place. ' , Ths outside pfef of-sllk Is embroid ered with a large-owknot, having long ends that ripple over the length of the sachet Ths embroidery is, done In wbita floss., - - .- - ; : ' ' : The edges of the silk are turned In and sewed together by hand, then bound . with narrow blue sstln ribbon, jlow the sachet Unfolded ovr onTtself for een Inches and ths edges caught to gether with aJooss buttonhole or. cat ton, leaving three Inches at the top to M over like the flat on an envelope. This -has a oleee of tha ribbon in the castas fcttt dawn -Jut ft flat fetw; ths For FIVE PMEIl,.; BELX3 ACCESSORIES under part Is fitted with the same, so that when the lingerie Is' slipped into the silken case the sachet may be tied together and laid In the bottom of bureau drawer, trunk or suitcase, pro tecting Its dainty contents from dust. Smaller sachets are .made, exactly on the same principle,, of linen or pretty, flowered lawn, the flowers matching the color of ribbon used. nibbon trimming the sachet should match In color and shade that, which Is run through ths lace beading on the ' lingerie. Another useful Accessory to th trous seau is a thro woven of china silk. This is mads from square yard of silk, and many and varied are Its uses. ' It may have a plain hemmed border or a two-inch hem can be feather- -stitched all around with silk floss match ing the color of the china silk. . Fit one side of the "throw" with -pock- ets made of squares and oblongs of silk, machine stlttfhed on, and Into these slip the articles most needed at ths end of a Journey when you stop at a hotel over night a change of underclothing, the night robe, a fresh blouse, lace Jabot, belt, handkerchief, glovss or whatever you will require first. Then when the trunk or suitcase Is patiked,, the. "throw" is laid on top, folded neatly and tucked r In at the edges; then everything is con veniently at band when, needed. 'It can also be used M a trunk cover or to toss "over the lingerie when laid upon a chair at night ! . Nimble fingers wPl sJsoe take $el!ght in making all the dalbty dress acces sories In which every bride delights. ' Girdles of ribbon and silk. Jabots of lace and linen, satin and velvet bows for the neck, jembroidered collars In vary- , Mng sizes and shspes, besides the hun dred and one other pretty things that" ; suggest themselves a ths bride-to-be works on. .', -' , '- v Almost Indispensable art oblong fcsgs f bright colored chints or gingham,. ; mads perfectly plain, to slip ths shoes, overshoes or slippers la when they must be carried about from placa to place. - It will not be difficult to fashion, any of these things,' and with each tlich , willbe woven Into -these dainty th trips : Kuzta fcWfX tfcpusat fit a o!4s4 tuture. Till: 01!i:00!I SUNDAY thelNDUSTRlOUS NEEDLEWOMAN v ' By Adelaide Byrd . 1 1 , , w , i .; THE embroidered belt on linen or( military belting holds a place in the summer wardrobe that no other kind has been able to take. Fashions may vary, but tho white belt in Its tailored effect will go on for years to come. Andhen It is so delightfully easy to make. Have you. ever priced hand-embroidered belts T Try It , and then come back to this page, I am giv ing today a variety to suit all tastes. The French knot design is very quickly done; the buckle in French .knots sur rounds your own initial or monogram, and regular embroidery stitches are used In the rest of the Ideas. Spirea Is always effective. ., French' knots In white can be mads" as large as you wish, 05 in wd sizes; of course, the else of any knot depends upon th thickness of thread and, the number of times that it is wound around the needle. Work the stems in a corded outline and the leaves In outline or naif solid. If you are Messed . with much time, an entire solid leaf is even better. This design is effective in col ors selected to match the stripe in the Embroidered Sashes; T HE. revival of the dlrectoire, fash ions marks the return of tha in evitable sash. " This is a Welcome fact to most women, wflio realize what an Improvement sashes are to any frock. Black velvet or satin Is a favored material for ths dlrectoire sash-girdlc . These are not difficult to make and are Inezpensiva U fasihloned at noma. It requires three yards of three-inch ribbon velvet Three-fourths of a yard forms ths waist bsl'J. To this attaeh three hooka and eyes to fasten at ths aide. . - The longer sash end should be cut Hi yards and the shorter one- yard long. The ends are bordered with deep silk fringe. . - . - -.. . - If black satin is used, it requires ttfr 'yards. Cut ths strips bias, ths desired width of the sash. Fort ths watet belt of soft folds. The end's' are effective If ambroiderodi . either in black or colors. If tha latter . are preferred, select an Arabian design. The ends may be rounded or diagonal, fashes of wida Hbbon require very little dm to make. It requires threa fourths of a yard for the waist belt and . th balance for the en da d 1 Finish at the left sid within wreath Of tfpv flowers and foliage I fsohioned of Hbbon- Tha end art adoraod in ds am nxajmaCt - 1- . - -" -- --' " -'. JOUHIIAL, rORTLAHD, SUNDAY MOISI.TKO. APRO, II. o2 shirtwaist or the main color in the suit with which the belt is to be worn. Daisies are always favorites. They can be relieved by, the addition of yel low centers. The forget-me-nots have been added for a new feature. Re member that an all-white treatment in creases the wearing possibilities of any embroidered work. Work the petals of the blossoms In solid stitches and use outlining for the slender stems. French knots fill the centers very effectively and quickly. The loaves are so slender that I would recommend solid work for them also. When working the diamond design in forget-me-nots, use Bolid stitches for the leaves and, Just for a change, make the petals by grouping a few French knots to form them. If your thread be very coarse, one large knot win suffice. This is a very neat, dainty design. "Blue for the flowers adds a delightful color note to this belt Any pale oolor could be used, with white for the leaves. Bowknots are used on the next belt. The buckle-shaped shield should be out lined and then filled in with French How to Transfer HERE are suggestions for -transferring ths pattern before you to any material before working. Perhaps ths easiest way la the "window-pane" method.' This is successful when the material is thin, like linen, batiste, etc. Pin the sheet of paper and the material together and hold them up against the glass of -a win dow. With a sharp pencil draw on th material the design, which can be easily seen through ths goods. If one- . half of the design only be given, npin the paper and turn the other side to the . fabric. The strong light behind will make it plaliu If you have carbon paper, you should place the" sheet between your fabrio and the newspaper. . This latter is on top. With a sharp penctt go over the , wirbVn? until worked. This method is success ful on heavy material, -,- . The -last way is also easy. Oa wax paper-or ordinary tissue paper trace ths pattern before you. When ths do-- sign is completed, turn ever the paper and outline the pattern With a heavy lead pendL Then alace ths design down on tha fabrie and redraw ths outline. prenung nra wiui ias peocu. iu ; psttern will be transferred - without , difficulty. " ' r Sorely tha way Is mx , . ':-" i On knots. Add your Initial or monogram by either drawing, padding and work ing or using the small forms so much In vogue. Pad the bowknots and work In solid stitch. The blossoms should then be worked solid, with a small French knot in the center. Finish the design by out lining the stems and filling in the slen der leaves. Wild roses with Just a touch of solid work on the turned edges are the last flowery offer. Work as you see, and All in the center of each flower by solid stitches surrounded with small French, knots. The leaves should be solid and the stems in outline. I know of one woman who is making her Christmas gifts now, She is enthu siastic over belts, and says that she la going to make them while the sun of leisure shines. They are easy work and show the hand touch so beautifully that you ought to trace them and prepare for. the gift-giving day when the per sonal touch Is so . thoroughly appreci ated. The. time is now! Washable Linen Bows THERE is nothing quite so dainty and becoming as a touch of white at the collar of a dress. When the frocks are of dark linen, this adds much to their attractiveness. Not every bna, can wear large Jabots or frills, but a small bow always looks well. These charming bows ere easily made and, what is still better, they are easily laundered at home. Small pieces ot linen are used for these bows, measuring 6', by 8 inches. The edges should be buttonholed in small callops. . Pleat through the center and finish with a narrow fold of the linen. If a pattern is first cut from paper, it is much easier to cut the linen In the desired shape, Variety may t gained ty maaing xne for a bow, cutting one slightly mailer than the other, forming a double bow; Any dainty spray-of flowers or de sign mir be : embroidered upon eir Lend, adding to tha beauty ot ths bow. . -. Thiers a clever Way to use small odds and ends of linen. : One can never have ton mn amaJl mm ftp warm-waather wir. - ' - . 1 --; - . Colors may be naed to embroider and buttonhole -tho edges, matchin inj frock jroaSesiia a wear tha box jrlta, Jill FACING FOR YOUR HAT : THIS season straw bats are to bs faced either with velvet or silk, declares one of the famous makers of millinery fashions In - Paris. Fac ings on ths under brim of hats are beautiful and Usually yery becoming to the wearer, provided they fit properly and are put on without the slightest crease or wrinkle. Few women whe trim their own hats havs the slightest Idea of how to adjust a fitted facing,' and this work Is either left undone or put into the hands .of an experienced milliner, for It Is deemed a difficult task, and yet, when one knows how. Is not so hard after all. When you have selected your summer hat, take a Sheet of tissue paper large enough- to cover the entire brim. Lay this flat on a table and put the hat on top of it Have at hand plenty of sharp-pointed pins steel pins are the' best and draw . the paper up Over the brim, pinning it fast to the edgt at intervals of one-half . Inch all the way around 4 This done, cut the paper outside the edge to a point one-half Inch above the brim's edge, then turn the hat over and slash the paper in the center of the crown to a point one-quarter of an Inch inside of the brim ' line. ' Make eight or ten Slashes across the diameter of the crown, ao the paper will fit up Into it without wrinkling. Between the slashes the paper will be pointed; cut off one Inch from each point With great cars- remove the paper s from the hat You now have a correct pattern from Which to cut the material for facing.. 1 -. - . With a pencil marc the center of tha "M v - ??".y?wi pattern, so that when you cut out tha material tne grain win run proper ly. Velvet must be out so tha nap runs from back to front and l!k must be cut so the straight Of the. goods follows the ; Una from center front to center back of .the hat. ' . - Cat yonr faclnsT exactly like tb pat tern and lay. it on the at's brim, tak lri ear not to stretch it in so doing. Pin it securely to the trim's ed?e. ae .yon did the pattern. t!xn smoorh it In'o the crown and pin et Xrequent tnttTvals at tha arowa Una, ' k A7 w w y ' f ; cfcy , Be sura ths facing Ilea smoothly fca, foro you tegtn to sew. . .. v1- ' j . Beginning at tha center back, turn' lit the edge of ths facing to meet tha sdga : of ths hat's brim and ssw it fast witt small slip stitch that is, running tha thread under ths edge of tha velvet, and catchlng.it to tha straw. ; j If you use satin or taffeta for ft.faa ing, it will be necessary to bare an Jn terllnlng,. cut exactly Uka the facing, of cambric or soma thin, firm lining ma terlal. ". ',' - This Is not necessary when tha facing Is of velvet. '..'.' With the hand, smooth"' tha facing from tha edge of .the brim toward ths crown and,, if necessary, readjust ths piece to make It fit without a!, single wrinkle. This done sew th facing at the crown line, using . lohg-and-short back stitch and strong cotton thread, The hat's lining is also -sewed around at this " point," concealing the 'Una of stitching on th facing. Then th hat is faced, ready far the, trimming, It does not sound so terribly difficult after alt . I am quite sure that tbo woman wlio can trim her Own hats ran face thont if she follows these directions. . . Summer Bedspread 13 1 THS sleeping apartments during ihi - summer should be made to appear ' dainty and coot This Is an easy "matter and llttla ex pense is attached to it After all ths draperies used during tb winter hav been stored-away nd tha uoncsry article f furniture dispensed vUX clothe your-room in Its smmr gar. tnircnaso plain, oarreii or figurei iim nr color vour tftaf na dU'lain. bureau.. dressipg tabl and the wlnu..f arapsrtssk t j m - . Maeure the lensrth of the b'lT tn lengin or ino t allow thre or four widths of mat' , according to thie of trie rie i. may be finlU;d by a ruiifl !!" 'pleating or by a dep h"- V ' 'f Inches from the hem. Of .Ti. s rufe, stitch bsnle of r.un-1 ... Cut the band frm design, which-msv l-o inJ iJ 1 number Of vr1t' . These rrfs.-! t-n'y ! mar t-9 lf:t f'"i! i 1 J-.d tut. C -
