K
TROUSSEAU
ACCESSORIES count for much In
calculating the success ot th
trousseau of a brld today, and
the glr whd la planning what ahe Is to
have shd how to expend the money at
her disposal to the beat advantage- will
put almost aa much thought into the
little things aa the does on the bridal
gown Use". . '
Happily for her, the majority of these
little things are handmade and can be.
fashioned by the girl herself at odd
moments Or during the leisure evening
hours. Her sacheti," for exatnpfte, are all made
by the girl herself Or by derated friends.
Twenty, even' ten years ago, th bride's
girl friends wo6ld make large sachets
of quilted satin, covered with plain
satin that was decorated with elaborate
embroidery or hand painting.
Fortunately for the brjde of today,
that fashion Is no longer with us. . for
sachets are now mads of the thinnest
china silk or fine handkerchief linen
They are cut double.' of course-, and
have a. sheet of very thin wadding, be
tween ; but they oeoupy . such a small
amount of space that several, with their
contents, can be carried in a suitcase,
with room to spare. A very lovely one,
designed to hold dainty lingerie, is made
of pale blue china silk thirty-six Inches
long and eighteen Inches wide, double.
Between the two pieces of silk is laid
the cotton wadding, thickly sprinkled
with th bride's favorite sachefr The'
silk which is to be the Inside of tba,
sachet is caught to the wadding; at
Intervals with tiny stitches to hold the '
wadding in place. ' ,
Ths outside pfef of-sllk Is embroid
ered with a large-owknot, having
long ends that ripple over the length
of the sachet Ths embroidery is, done
In wbita floss., - - .- - ; : ' ' :
The edges of the silk are turned In
and sewed together by hand, then bound .
with narrow blue sstln ribbon, jlow
the sachet Unfolded ovr onTtself for
een Inches and ths edges caught to
gether with aJooss buttonhole or. cat
ton, leaving three Inches at the top to
M over like the flat on an envelope.
This -has a oleee of tha ribbon in the
castas fcttt dawn -Jut ft flat fetw; ths
For
FIVE PMEIl,.; BELX3
ACCESSORIES
under part Is fitted with the same, so
that when the lingerie Is' slipped into
the silken case the sachet may be tied
together and laid In the bottom of
bureau drawer, trunk or suitcase, pro
tecting Its dainty contents from dust.
Smaller sachets are .made, exactly on
the same principle,, of linen or pretty,
flowered lawn, the flowers matching the
color of ribbon used.
nibbon trimming the sachet should
match In color and shade that, which
Is run through ths lace beading on the '
lingerie.
Another useful Accessory to th trous
seau is a thro woven of china silk.
This is mads from square yard of
silk, and many and varied are Its uses.
' It may have a plain hemmed border
or a two-inch hem can be feather- -stitched
all around with silk floss match
ing the color of the china silk. .
Fit one side of the "throw" with -pock-
ets made of squares and oblongs of silk,
machine stlttfhed on, and Into these slip
the articles most needed at ths end of a
Journey when you stop at a hotel over
night a change of underclothing, the
night robe, a fresh blouse, lace Jabot,
belt, handkerchief, glovss or whatever
you will require first. Then when the
trunk or suitcase Is patiked,, the. "throw"
is laid on top, folded neatly and tucked
r In at the edges; then everything is con
veniently at band when, needed.
'It can also be used M a trunk cover
or to toss "over the lingerie when laid
upon a chair at night ! .
Nimble fingers wPl sJsoe take $el!ght
in making all the dalbty dress acces
sories In which every bride delights.
' Girdles of ribbon and silk. Jabots of
lace and linen, satin and velvet bows for
the neck, jembroidered collars In vary- ,
Mng sizes and shspes, besides the hun
dred and one other pretty things that" ;
suggest themselves a ths bride-to-be
works on. .', -' , '-
v Almost Indispensable art oblong fcsgs
f bright colored chints or gingham,.
; mads perfectly plain, to slip ths shoes,
overshoes or slippers la when they must
be carried about from placa to place.
- It will not be difficult to fashion, any
of these things,' and with each tlich
, willbe woven Into -these dainty th trips
: Kuzta fcWfX tfcpusat fit a o!4s4 tuture.
Till: 01!i:00!I SUNDAY
thelNDUSTRlOUS NEEDLEWOMAN
v ' By Adelaide Byrd
. 1 1 , , w , i .;
THE embroidered belt on linen or(
military belting holds a place in
the summer wardrobe that no
other kind has been able to take.
Fashions may vary, but tho white belt
in Its tailored effect will go on for years
to come. Andhen It is so delightfully
easy to make. Have you. ever priced
hand-embroidered belts T Try It , and
then come back to this page, I am giv
ing today a variety to suit all tastes.
The French knot design is very quickly
done; the buckle in French .knots sur
rounds your own initial or monogram,
and regular embroidery stitches are
used In the rest of the Ideas.
Spirea Is always effective. .,
French' knots In white can be mads"
as large as you wish, 05 in wd sizes;
of course, the else of any knot depends
upon th thickness of thread and, the
number of times that it is wound around
the needle. Work the stems in a corded
outline and the leaves In outline or
naif solid. If you are Messed . with
much time, an entire solid leaf is even
better. This design is effective in col
ors selected to match the stripe in the
Embroidered Sashes;
T
HE. revival of the dlrectoire, fash
ions marks the return of tha in
evitable sash. "
This is a Welcome fact to most women,
wflio realize what an Improvement
sashes are to any frock.
Black velvet or satin Is a favored
material for ths dlrectoire sash-girdlc .
These are not difficult to make and
are Inezpensiva U fasihloned at noma.
It requires three yards of three-inch
ribbon velvet Three-fourths of a yard
forms ths waist bsl'J. To this attaeh
three hooka and eyes to fasten at ths
aide. . -
The longer sash end should be cut
Hi yards and the shorter one- yard long.
The ends are bordered with deep silk
fringe. . - . - -.. . -
If black satin is used, it requires ttfr
'yards. Cut ths strips bias, ths desired
width of the sash.
Fort ths watet belt of soft folds.
The end's' are effective If ambroiderodi .
either in black or colors. If tha latter .
are preferred, select an Arabian design.
The ends may be rounded or diagonal,
fashes of wida Hbbon require very
little dm to make. It requires threa
fourths of a yard for the waist belt and .
th balance for the en da d
1 Finish at the left sid within wreath
Of tfpv flowers and foliage I fsohioned
of Hbbon- Tha end art adoraod in
ds am nxajmaCt -
1- . - -" -- --' " -'.
JOUHIIAL, rORTLAHD, SUNDAY MOISI.TKO. APRO, II.
o2
shirtwaist or the main color in the suit
with which the belt is to be worn.
Daisies are always favorites. They
can be relieved by, the addition of yel
low centers. The forget-me-nots have
been added for a new feature. Re
member that an all-white treatment in
creases the wearing possibilities of any
embroidered work. Work the petals of
the blossoms In solid stitches and use
outlining for the slender stems. French
knots fill the centers very effectively
and quickly. The loaves are so slender
that I would recommend solid work for
them also.
When working the diamond design in
forget-me-nots, use Bolid stitches for the
leaves and, Just for a change, make the
petals by grouping a few French knots
to form them. If your thread be very
coarse, one large knot win suffice. This
is a very neat, dainty design. "Blue for
the flowers adds a delightful color note
to this belt Any pale oolor could be
used, with white for the leaves.
Bowknots are used on the next belt.
The buckle-shaped shield should be out
lined and then filled in with French
How to Transfer
HERE are suggestions for -transferring
ths pattern before you
to any material before working.
Perhaps ths easiest way la the "window-pane"
method.' This is successful
when the material is thin, like linen,
batiste, etc. Pin the sheet of paper
and the material together and hold
them up against the glass of -a win
dow. With a sharp pencil draw on th
material the design, which can be
easily seen through ths goods. If one- .
half of the design only be given, npin
the paper and turn the other side to the .
fabric. The strong light behind will
make it plaliu
If you have carbon paper, you should
place the" sheet between your fabrio
and the newspaper. . This latter is on
top. With a sharp penctt go over the ,
wirbVn?
until worked. This method is success
ful on heavy material, -,-
. The -last way is also easy. Oa wax
paper-or ordinary tissue paper trace
ths pattern before you. When ths do--
sign is completed, turn ever the paper
and outline the pattern With a heavy
lead pendL Then alace ths design down
on tha fabrie and redraw ths outline.
prenung nra wiui ias peocu. iu ;
psttern will be transferred - without ,
difficulty. " '
r Sorely tha way Is mx , . ':-" i
On
knots. Add your Initial or monogram
by either drawing, padding and work
ing or using the small forms so much
In vogue.
Pad the bowknots and work In solid
stitch. The blossoms should then be
worked solid, with a small French knot
in the center. Finish the design by out
lining the stems and filling in the slen
der leaves.
Wild roses with Just a touch of solid
work on the turned edges are the last
flowery offer. Work as you see, and
All in the center of each flower by solid
stitches surrounded with small French,
knots. The leaves should be solid and
the stems in outline.
I know of one woman who is making
her Christmas gifts now, She is enthu
siastic over belts, and says that she la
going to make them while the sun of
leisure shines. They are easy work and
show the hand touch so beautifully that
you ought to trace them and prepare
for. the gift-giving day when the per
sonal touch Is so . thoroughly appreci
ated. The. time is now!
Washable Linen Bows
THERE is nothing quite so dainty
and becoming as a touch of white
at the collar of a dress. When the
frocks are of dark linen, this adds much
to their attractiveness.
Not every bna, can wear large Jabots
or frills, but a small bow always looks
well.
These charming bows ere easily made
and, what is still better, they are easily
laundered at home.
Small pieces ot linen are used for these
bows, measuring 6', by 8 inches. The
edges should be buttonholed in small
callops. .
Pleat through the center and finish
with a narrow fold of the linen.
If a pattern is first cut from paper, it
is much easier to cut the linen In the
desired shape,
Variety may t gained ty maaing xne
for a bow, cutting one slightly mailer
than the other, forming a double bow;
Any dainty spray-of flowers or de
sign mir be : embroidered upon eir
Lend, adding to tha beauty ot ths bow. .
-. Thiers a clever Way to use small odds
and ends of linen. : One can never have
ton mn amaJl mm ftp warm-waather
wir. - ' - . 1 --; - .
Colors may be naed to embroider and
buttonhole -tho edges, matchin inj
frock jroaSesiia a wear tha box jrlta,
Jill
FACING FOR YOUR HAT :
THIS season straw bats are to bs
faced either with velvet or silk,
declares one of the famous makers
of millinery fashions In - Paris. Fac
ings on ths under brim of hats are
beautiful and Usually yery becoming to
the wearer, provided they fit properly
and are put on without the slightest
crease or wrinkle.
Few women whe trim their own hats
havs the slightest Idea of how to adjust
a fitted facing,' and this work Is either
left undone or put into the hands .of an
experienced milliner, for It Is deemed a
difficult task, and yet, when one knows
how. Is not so hard after all.
When you have selected your summer
hat, take a Sheet of tissue paper large
enough- to cover the entire brim. Lay
this flat on a table and put the hat on
top of it
Have at hand plenty of sharp-pointed
pins steel pins are the' best and draw .
the paper up Over the brim, pinning it
fast to the edgt at intervals of one-half .
Inch all the way around 4
This done, cut the paper outside the
edge to a point one-half Inch above the
brim's edge, then turn the hat over
and slash the paper in the center of the
crown to a point one-quarter of an
Inch inside of the brim ' line. ' Make
eight or ten Slashes across the diameter
of the crown, ao the paper will fit up
Into it without wrinkling.
Between the slashes the paper will be
pointed; cut off one Inch from each
point
With great cars- remove the paper s
from the hat You now have a correct
pattern from Which to cut the material
for facing.. 1 -. - .
With a pencil marc the center of tha
"M v - ??".y?wi
pattern, so that when you cut out tha
material tne grain win run proper ly.
Velvet must be out so tha nap runs from
back to front and l!k must be cut so
the straight Of the. goods follows the
; Una from center front to center back of
.the hat. ' .
- Cat yonr faclnsT exactly like tb pat
tern and lay. it on the at's brim, tak
lri ear not to stretch it in so doing.
Pin it securely to the trim's ed?e. ae
.yon did the pattern. t!xn smoorh it In'o
the crown and pin et Xrequent tnttTvals
at tha arowa Una, '
k A7
w w y ' f
; cfcy
, Be sura ths facing Ilea smoothly fca,
foro you tegtn to sew. . .. v1- ' j .
Beginning at tha center back, turn' lit
the edge of ths facing to meet tha sdga
: of ths hat's brim and ssw it fast witt
small slip stitch that is, running tha
thread under ths edge of tha velvet, and
catchlng.it to tha straw. ; j
If you use satin or taffeta for ft.faa
ing, it will be necessary to bare an Jn
terllnlng,. cut exactly Uka the facing, of
cambric or soma thin, firm lining ma
terlal. ". ',' -
This Is not necessary when tha facing
Is of velvet. '..'.'
With the hand, smooth"' tha facing
from tha edge of .the brim toward ths
crown and,, if necessary, readjust ths
piece to make It fit without a!, single
wrinkle. This done sew th facing at
the crown line, using . lohg-and-short
back stitch and strong cotton thread,
The hat's lining is also -sewed around
at this " point," concealing the 'Una of
stitching on th facing. Then th hat is
faced, ready far the, trimming, It does
not sound so terribly difficult after alt .
I am quite sure that tbo woman wlio
can trim her Own hats ran face thont
if she follows these directions. . .
Summer Bedspread
13
1
THS sleeping apartments during ihi
- summer should be made to appear
' dainty and coot
This Is an easy "matter and llttla ex
pense is attached to it After all ths
draperies used during tb winter hav
been stored-away nd tha uoncsry
article f furniture dispensed vUX
clothe your-room in Its smmr gar.
tnircnaso plain, oarreii or figurei iim
nr color vour tftaf na dU'lain.
bureau.. dressipg tabl and the wlnu..f
arapsrtssk t j m - .
Maeure the lensrth of the b'lT
tn lengin or ino
t
allow thre or four widths of mat'
, according to thie of trie rie i.
may be finlU;d by a ruiifl !!"
'pleating or by a dep h"- V ' 'f
Inches from the hem. Of .Ti. s
rufe, stitch bsnle of r.un-1 ...
Cut the band frm
design, which-msv l-o inJ iJ
1 number Of vr1t' .
These rrfs.-! t-n'y !
mar t-9 lf:t f'"i! i 1
J-.d tut. C -