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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 21, 1910)
, ' ; 4 kj jr j j rr ' j' x r3 )) )) r3 H . AKi - , ! - . . 1 v . - . , . ; ' . t , - - t i , . I J, J . 'y. "e:nmw ,, .... is. ' ' - r ' k ' . " s x. t x. x s sr- ' - 1 f i 1 EN'T it lovely T TThe fawclneutlon, of teyelet work Is perennial, and In ad-, tlon to the ejteotiveness of this de sign there ara a durability and an ordgliwkt of treatment thaf commend themselves to both eye and hamd. First, of all, let us decide Juat how jmuch solid "work Is necessary to "hold tdgethw' the design. You see, tha soal--loped edge is quite heavy. This will be dons as'ueu&l, first padding with darn- Ing cotton and working a buttonhole stitch, with probably an extra row of these along the edge'for good luck. The tenmlnaUhg' lines will be outline only. The ' gmooful, stems that wind id to too broad, you can out away a little of ward the center will be dona in the sam . the goods. , way. ' You will And that this large center- . THREE MATERIALS COMBINED . v A CLEVFR girl who had' threa rem J nants, none of them large inough to make a gown, solved the prob-' lem ' by combining- them,' They Were ' white batiste, plain lavender linen and y,?A .B..irlfn yH't 'n the same shade. 'The batiste formed the -short belled sleeves and the puffed baby - blouse. The lavender, of which she had 1 . the mooti was made into a plain, gored skirt. Cuffs, girdle snd- pointed straps . down the skirt from ths belt and at the . ldm of the blouse were ot cheK&ei Now for our diode. How would you like the round disks In each scallop and in the elht etralg'lrt lines to be solid? This would rive a relief to tb ey and Just sis much effect In the end. But with a provtdetioe that is commendable, the designer has do placed theae circles that eyelet work in them Is permdaslble, If you prefer the entire design worked in this favorttie ot the needlewoman, The oval eyelets you will cut with ' embroidery scissors down the center, and after staying them with a few loose overstltches, begin in the Arm stitches for regular eyelet work If the oval is material piped with lavender. The round, low neck was finished by a plain strip of aljover. embroidery about ix Indies long, : . The frock was as dainty and pretty as f - coukLbe. , and ,yet .Uaxoaa froiaA Judicious choice of remnants. .The pos sible" color combinations are endless. .How pretty "old rose and green would aw nrettv "old rose and green would be, with a checked or striped material In one ot the. other shade! And then there are tan and blue, and gray- and 'pink. It Is ah .trnawnr tooths annoying shortness -of ere&anaaUk ' ' piece grows In a. pleasantly; swift way undeY your needle. 'It Is labeled "eye let," but there is given a. design that will play successfully a double role, If you wish, the entire design can' be solid work. , ' , ' Why not begin "on Ihls pretty form Jot that friend who will be an early fall bride? But let nothing prevent you from proving; what ah attractive design this, proves In a linen form. The prediction that. I make Is that you will not stop at one, of these centerpieces. And you could hot form better habit. .-, Lace Flower Pins IIE latest In dainty and, charming pins for wear on collars and cuffs , - is a lace flower crocheted around an ordinary 'small safety pin. The flower is usually In violet form, though In white", and stands out stiffly from the pin. ... 1 " ' ' ' , 1 When v crocheted to a violet pin, It may be tiacd to fasten jabots of flowers, and it la t Just as pretty, though not quite By new, as appuea to tne net- li. ,..Ai asu. ot Ohasa-iovaijf-aiU. ylns three for-collar, two tav cuffs two tiatpins and -two stickpins would be tne prettiest present a bride ide or a trsv- eler to Europe ever received The bar of the safety pin is crocheted , over' and over to hide the steel. In pre sometimes pleated also. The cam black., with black plrrn. thev solve the.brlo foundation Is not sewed tosether, , Q.uaikiuuoXjahat.la..Ufie in mourning, Ji butfhe material for th ruching fa Made at: Home I HE great trouble about the pretty rucblngs with which every woman ; likes to finish the tops of dress collars is that after one wearing they are . hardly ffl to put on again and must be throwa away. This makes, them really a small extravagance, giv ing the choice of incompleteness or un- : tidiness to the woman who would be. well dressed and must be economical. The solution la the making of ruchlnge by one's own'- hand. This Is much easier than it sounds, and has other advantages, in that the ruching will al ways matoh or harmonize with the gown in color and material and that' many new and unusual effects cftn -be . obtained. " Ruching may cordea, pleated ftr folded. Cording is the easiest method, : and shouid.be the one first tried; For this a strip of cambric twice the width desired for the foundation is stitched tloubje, on the machine or by hand -and the stiff silk or metal thread cord is sewed to It by over-and-over stitch. This is trlnle-twlst cord at least. -and should be sewed on the exact edge u mo camDnc, "ai JK- pyen over the collar. It may be of white or of a color to match the dress; and the : gold, silver and bronse cords are espe cially pretty with the Persian embroid ery now so much worn. '.; Make a suitl cint length at one time to lust you for several ruchlngsbuy a wlwle piece of cord, if you can, and make it ail up to- Aifother cdrded ruching is made by using the very thin white or black thread cord and sewing It orrthe'-eam- brie. In a looped and scalloped or a wall-of-troy pattern. This oord is very oil... .iiu . .7 vai,j vnuni .iewtoruwadasign.. ., 11 tin, .ana is easily caugtit and neia so as durable tourist's niching, as doea nar row white or black thread, cord. Q. The pleated ruching is usually white end -of lawn or linen, or of chiffon1 or ' net. though silk -and ribbon ruchlngs finely tuoked or pleated," sewed to the tumed-in foundation and then finished by sewing up the other end of the cam bric over it-on the machine, If possible, as this holds the goods and makes it easy to wash. Sometimes chiffon or tulle are simply loosely gathered under the cambric, giving the appearance of pumng. White, materials should be starched in washing; they hold their shape and keep clean much longer, 1 Folded ruchlngs are test for tailored gowns, and are usually of silk in a color to match the dresa or its-trimming. If it be trimmed with silk pip ings or buttons, the same silk can-be used for the ruching. , Make two or three narrow milliner's folds, and'sew iinder the catnbrlo as hown to, the pleated ruching. This ruching differs from the silk simply folded and sewed on to the collar in that, being on a cambric foundation that can be removed easily, 4t is renewed frequently and always looks fresh and new. At a very little extra expense a woman can thus avoid the bedraggled aptwarance so common when a bit of ailk is simply ettid on the collar as a finishing touch. . other materials than those mentioned are quite possible as ruchlngs. Folded) r pique makes a practical finish for a shirtwaist stock, and flowered dimity Is delightful-on a lingerie dress in pale dresden colors. Those In mourning are -alwavs sure of having the correct black fuellings, though, exept in very thin. . 'waists, it is better to have a white cambrto foundation, as it shows dirt immediately and thus insures neatness - onen the exact color mat win go with a gown is not to be found tn the stores or the rachlna: materials seem utterly incompatible- with the drens fab- ,.. ric-i - and then It is that the made-st-home rurtilng- shows itself in -all its , usefulnea. A few minutes machine stitching will save you the buying of numberless ruchlngs, and make you cer tain of alwavs lookln well, for it Is 'the minor details in dress that count moot. ; Rmhlngs, by the way, should hot be pinned Into .the collar,-a method untidy snd uncomfortable, but should be sewed , in by long stitfbes m uneven nastmg. anori.,.wlth.a..ktrfrfcl, easllv be done without ehowina through 'in fron-t, and keeps the ruching always firm and' in place.- - - - i 80 k the next time you are going to : buy, a Tuche, think better of tt; buv the' materials instead and make yourself a whole holt' of ruching ler the price ef " t. neck-length. . The Revival of N ' MID-VICTORIAN , times every girt did ribbon work, , "rUbbon . reticules. t berlbboned ehawli, rib- bon-trlmm4 eunshadee were everywhere. But the pretty art went out with the crinoline, and has Just oome to llghtigaln.' Let us hope it goes not preeage the crinoline also I Ribbon work, properly speaking. Hoes not consist of articles formed of ribbon or trimmed with It It means , the following en patterns and designs, usually flowers, but with any variety permissible, by means of the cutting and sewing of white or colored rib- bona, and the application of these to a fabric. : " The chief beauty of ribbon work is in its color and in its fineness. It is a ; worthy rival to embroidery when well and artistically done, and can give with ease an appearance of nature that with embroidery would mean un usually skilled and laborious toil. Ths work is not, however, especially easy, as It needs the artist's eye and the craftsman's needle, but it is well worth the attention of any woman who loves pretty things. The method- of working can best be illustrated by a concrete example. Suppose that It is desired to adorn the flounce of a lingerie dress with a tracery of forget-me-nots. . For this you will need a bolt each or light blue and green baby ribbon ' and ' blue, green and yellow embroidery silk. fMrst draw your pattern in pencil on the . goods, Indicating roughly the . direction of the stems and the position of the blossoms. Do the stem and leaves first, twist ing the ribbon Into very narrow tub ing for the stem, sswing it firmly to , the fabrio with green thread and then forming each leaf of about onerstx toenth ot an inch ot the green ribbon, puffed slightly and fastened with a stitch at each end. Each petal Of the flower is out the same 'else as the leaf, alnce It is puffed ihlgher, and is fas tened by two or three stitches more to the dres goods. In the center of each blossom place a yellow French knot for the' pistils; the petals; of . course, are stitched in blue. sr.. That is one way of procedure; the other, better adapted for heavier goods. Is not to cut the ribbon, but to run It tinder the material, using tt as if It were a. thick embroidery silk, worked Hook-and-Eye Hints HEN sewing the hooka and eyes on the placket of a Skirt, gew w one pair at the very bottom, fasten them ang crush them fiat. This will keep the placket from ever tear- lug or ripping at the end. un a wasn aress, tne eyes snoum pe uboiuA nn tho liniiBr Hin in, iha hnnb.4 on the lower, instead of the usual faski- Ion. The top flap can then be ironr lafUtijt ironinir over hooks. In working on heavy materials, alter nate the hooks and eyes: . first an eye and then a hook on one flap, with first h hook and then an eye on the' other. This trtethed will hold the dress shut and save you from much dixcoinXuri and embarrassment. Trimming for Evening Cloak 1 STUNNINO eveoiny cloak of thin A black satin lined wltb emerald green bad a hood and slashed bandings of thin 'striped gold net, under which the black was cut away so As to give a lovely green-under-Kold effect. The heavy tassels were of gold, a and the whole effect was nagnincent. ,. Ribbon Work with an over-and-over stitch effect wherever visible above the fabric. This la the method used with large flowers, men as roees and pansles. Sometimes the leaves are worked In this method, the Stems in heavy twilledTembroidery silk, and the flowers are simply quilled and puffed ribbon about an inch and a half wide. This is very striking in bor ders to lampshades and screens. : r ' The color is really the all-Important thing. On a white-trained evening dress, what more gorgeously beautiful than inauve orchids or little orange-yellow chrysanthemums?, And every one of the multitudinous rose colors can be gained, from the white rose to the crimson ram bler;! even the pink and yellow tearose is no; unobtainable. , ' The. work has so far in Its renais sance been applied mainly to dress. Court trains in England were being trimmed in this way before the king's death, and bridal gowns of soft liberty silk have been seen trimmed with white orange blossoms, but its possibilities are endless. I have mentioned lampshades and screens; the latter are especially, pretty in Japanese effect, with purple irises and gilt ribbon chrysanthemums. Then there are white china silk shawls, which are lovely with tiny silver tissue and ash-pink roses instead of the con ventional quilling or fringing; parasols, - smart lu tan with red geraniums in a " regular conventional pattern, or dainty In light blue with tiny . wreaths ot tlulc rosebuds: bureau sets, wonderfully st tractive la heavy dotted net over light green and with a traced border of sweet 1 eryssurn or violets. Thus in dress, in the household and in all the dainty nondescripts that add the llnishtng touch to a personality or to a, .. home the value of artlstio ribbon work ' is evident. .Extreme care Is necessary in its making, for nothing shows more plainly the effect of bungling or ama teurish methods; but when well done, with the proper implements and tn needed attention to beauty and det.nl. it Is so lovely (hat many women t never again satisfied with colored em broidery after having compared it Will ribbon work. ' ' , . , , It Is certainly an art well revived, awt let us hope that, without becoming com. mon property to the estent that tha fii- tidlous disdain it, it will grow to !) - known and atwreciat by all women in tereated in the art of delicate nee.M- - work. ; Latest in Petticoats DUESa underskirts are of fine mii lln or bat'Ste. I.fti'e is nwfo tit" I in trimming than embroidery, I trtinmlug bing neat rather tha i v'.i orate. Alluver embrold' ry, Uu,. chmy. torchon snd honlton s.Uii.gs , ... , : . V . iUSerUOnS Sie B insertion are best. Under . wh drenses, chambnvv and batiste .: under i wanh drewi, ivlvi' l ,. rhambrnv and batiste' pi-ttlcewM in white, with white Ue ,m .colored riboon vw'--, i-Among novelties (' ; . peUU'oais with a ' t!'ii,M - n. ' the knee. eKib'''!''"' 1 in (iniiiU ui;h u l.i. H.i.,,, i.,,. Of the tanta tliAMiv ymim
