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1
EN'T it lovely T TThe fawclneutlon, of
teyelet work Is perennial, and In ad-,
tlon to the ejteotiveness of this de
sign there ara a durability and an
ordgliwkt of treatment thaf commend
themselves to both eye and hamd.
First, of all, let us decide Juat how
jmuch solid "work Is necessary to "hold
tdgethw' the design. You see, tha soal--loped
edge is quite heavy. This will be
dons as'ueu&l, first padding with darn-
Ing cotton and working a buttonhole
stitch, with probably an extra row of
these along the edge'for good luck. The
tenmlnaUhg' lines will be outline only.
The ' gmooful, stems that wind id to too broad, you can out away a little of
ward the center will be dona in the sam . the goods. ,
way. ' You will And that this large center-
. THREE MATERIALS COMBINED . v
A CLEVFR girl who had' threa rem
J nants, none of them large inough
to make a gown, solved the prob-'
lem ' by combining- them,' They Were
' white batiste, plain lavender linen and
y,?A .B..irlfn yH't 'n the
same shade. 'The batiste formed the -short
belled sleeves and the puffed baby -
blouse. The lavender, of which she had 1
. the mooti was made into a plain, gored
skirt. Cuffs, girdle snd- pointed straps
. down the skirt from ths belt and at the .
ldm of the blouse were ot cheK&ei
Now for our diode. How would you
like the round disks In each scallop and
in the elht etralg'lrt lines to be solid?
This would rive a relief to tb ey and
Just sis much effect In the end. But
with a provtdetioe that is commendable,
the designer has do placed theae circles
that eyelet work in them Is permdaslble,
If you prefer the entire design worked in
this favorttie ot the needlewoman,
The oval eyelets you will cut with
' embroidery scissors down the center,
and after staying them with a few loose
overstltches, begin in the Arm stitches
for regular eyelet work If the oval is
material piped with lavender. The
round, low neck was finished by a plain
strip of aljover. embroidery about ix
Indies long, : .
The frock was as dainty and pretty as
f - coukLbe. , and ,yet .Uaxoaa froiaA
Judicious choice of remnants. .The pos
sible" color combinations are endless.
.How pretty "old rose and green would
aw nrettv "old rose and green would
be, with a checked or striped material
In one ot the. other shade! And then
there are tan and blue, and gray- and
'pink. It Is ah .trnawnr tooths annoying
shortness -of ere&anaaUk ' '
piece grows In a. pleasantly; swift way
undeY your needle. 'It Is labeled "eye
let," but there is given a. design that
will play successfully a double role, If
you wish, the entire design can' be solid
work. , ' , '
Why not begin "on Ihls pretty form Jot
that friend who will be an early fall
bride? But let nothing prevent you from
proving; what ah attractive design this,
proves In a linen form. The prediction
that. I make Is that you will not stop
at one, of these centerpieces. And you
could hot form better habit. .-,
Lace Flower Pins
IIE latest In dainty and, charming
pins for wear on collars and cuffs
, - is a lace flower crocheted around
an ordinary 'small safety pin. The
flower is usually In violet form, though
In white", and stands out stiffly from the
pin. ... 1 " ' ' ' , 1
When v crocheted to a violet pin, It
may be tiacd to fasten jabots of flowers,
and it la t Just as pretty, though not
quite By new, as appuea to tne net-
li. ,..Ai asu. ot Ohasa-iovaijf-aiU.
ylns three for-collar, two tav cuffs two
tiatpins and -two stickpins would be
tne prettiest present a bride
ide or a trsv-
eler to Europe ever received
The bar of the safety pin is crocheted
, over' and over to hide the steel. In pre sometimes pleated also. The cam
black., with black plrrn. thev solve the.brlo foundation Is not sewed tosether,
, Q.uaikiuuoXjahat.la..Ufie in mourning, Ji butfhe material for th ruching fa
Made at: Home
I HE great trouble about the pretty
rucblngs with which every woman ;
likes to finish the tops of dress
collars is that after one wearing they
are . hardly ffl to put on again and
must be throwa away. This makes,
them really a small extravagance, giv
ing the choice of incompleteness or un- :
tidiness to the woman who would be.
well dressed and must be economical.
The solution la the making of ruchlnge
by one's own'- hand. This Is much
easier than it sounds, and has other
advantages, in that the ruching will al
ways matoh or harmonize with the
gown in color and material and that'
many new and unusual effects cftn -be
. obtained. "
Ruching may cordea, pleated ftr
folded. Cording is the easiest method, :
and shouid.be the one first tried; For
this a strip of cambric twice the width
desired for the foundation is stitched
tloubje, on the machine or by hand -and
the stiff silk or metal thread cord
is sewed to It by over-and-over stitch.
This is trlnle-twlst cord at least. -and
should be sewed on the exact edge
u mo camDnc, "ai JK- pyen
over the collar. It may be of white or
of a color to match the dress; and the
: gold, silver and bronse cords are espe
cially pretty with the Persian embroid
ery now so much worn. '.; Make a suitl
cint length at one time to lust you for
several ruchlngsbuy a wlwle piece of
cord, if you can, and make it ail up to-
Aifother cdrded ruching is made by
using the very thin white or black
thread cord and sewing It orrthe'-eam-
brie. In a looped and scalloped or a
wall-of-troy pattern. This oord is very
oil... .iiu . .7 vai,j vnuni
.iewtoruwadasign.. ., 11
tin, .ana is easily caugtit and neia so as
durable tourist's niching, as doea nar
row white or black thread, cord.
Q. The pleated ruching is usually white
end -of lawn or linen, or of chiffon1 or
' net. though silk -and ribbon ruchlngs
finely tuoked or pleated," sewed to the
tumed-in foundation and then finished
by sewing up the other end of the cam
bric over it-on the machine, If possible,
as this holds the goods and makes it
easy to wash. Sometimes chiffon or
tulle are simply loosely gathered under
the cambric, giving the appearance of
pumng. White, materials should be
starched in washing; they hold their
shape and keep clean much longer,
1 Folded ruchlngs are test for tailored
gowns, and are usually of silk in a
color to match the dresa or its-trimming.
If it be trimmed with silk pip
ings or buttons, the same silk can-be
used for the ruching. , Make two or
three narrow milliner's folds, and'sew
iinder the catnbrlo as hown to, the
pleated ruching. This ruching differs
from the silk simply folded and sewed
on to the collar in that, being on a
cambric foundation that can be removed
easily, 4t is renewed frequently and
always looks fresh and new. At a very
little extra expense a woman can thus
avoid the bedraggled aptwarance so
common when a bit of ailk is simply
ettid on the collar as a finishing
touch. .
other materials than those mentioned
are quite possible as ruchlngs. Folded)
r pique makes a practical finish for a
shirtwaist stock, and flowered dimity Is
delightful-on a lingerie dress in pale
dresden colors. Those In mourning are -alwavs
sure of having the correct black
fuellings, though, exept in very thin.
. 'waists, it is better to have a white
cambrto foundation, as it shows dirt
immediately and thus insures neatness
- onen the exact color mat win go
with a gown is not to be found tn the
stores or the rachlna: materials seem
utterly incompatible- with the drens fab- ,..
ric-i - and then It is that the made-st-home
rurtilng- shows itself in -all its ,
usefulnea. A few minutes machine
stitching will save you the buying of
numberless ruchlngs, and make you cer
tain of alwavs lookln well, for it Is
'the minor details in dress that count
moot.
; Rmhlngs, by the way, should hot be
pinned Into .the collar,-a method untidy
snd uncomfortable, but should be sewed
, in by long stitfbes m uneven nastmg.
anori.,.wlth.a..ktrfrfcl,
easllv be done without ehowina through
'in fron-t, and keeps the ruching always
firm and' in place.- - - - i
80 k the next time you are going to
: buy, a Tuche, think better of tt; buv the'
materials instead and make yourself a
whole holt' of ruching ler the price ef
" t. neck-length. .
The Revival of
N ' MID-VICTORIAN , times every
girt did ribbon work, , "rUbbon
. reticules. t berlbboned ehawli, rib-
bon-trlmm4 eunshadee were
everywhere. But the pretty art went
out with the crinoline, and has Just
oome to llghtigaln.' Let us hope it
goes not preeage the crinoline also I
Ribbon work, properly speaking.
Hoes not consist of articles formed of
ribbon or trimmed with It It means ,
the following en patterns and designs,
usually flowers, but with any variety
permissible, by means of the cutting
and sewing of white or colored rib-
bona, and the application of these to a
fabric. : "
The chief beauty of ribbon work is
in its color and in its fineness. It is a ;
worthy rival to embroidery when well
and artistically done, and can give
with ease an appearance of nature
that with embroidery would mean un
usually skilled and laborious toil. Ths
work is not, however, especially easy,
as It needs the artist's eye and the
craftsman's needle, but it is well worth
the attention of any woman who loves
pretty things.
The method- of working can best be
illustrated by a concrete example.
Suppose that It is desired to adorn the
flounce of a lingerie dress with a
tracery of forget-me-nots. . For this
you will need a bolt each or light blue
and green baby ribbon ' and ' blue,
green and yellow embroidery silk.
fMrst draw your pattern in pencil on
the . goods, Indicating roughly the .
direction of the stems and the position
of the blossoms.
Do the stem and leaves first, twist
ing the ribbon Into very narrow tub
ing for the stem, sswing it firmly to ,
the fabrio with green thread and then
forming each leaf of about onerstx
toenth ot an inch ot the green ribbon,
puffed slightly and fastened with a
stitch at each end. Each petal Of the
flower is out the same 'else as the leaf,
alnce It is puffed ihlgher, and is fas
tened by two or three stitches more
to the dres goods. In the center of
each blossom place a yellow French
knot for the' pistils; the petals; of .
course, are stitched in blue. sr..
That is one way of procedure; the
other, better adapted for heavier goods.
Is not to cut the ribbon, but to
run It tinder the material, using tt as if
It were a. thick embroidery silk, worked
Hook-and-Eye Hints
HEN sewing the hooka and eyes
on the placket of a Skirt, gew
w one pair at the very bottom,
fasten them ang crush them fiat. This
will keep the placket from ever tear-
lug or ripping at the end.
un a wasn aress, tne eyes snoum pe
uboiuA nn tho liniiBr Hin in, iha hnnb.4
on the lower, instead of the usual faski-
Ion. The top flap can then be ironr
lafUtijt
ironinir over hooks.
In working on heavy materials, alter
nate the hooks and eyes: . first an eye
and then a hook on one flap, with first
h hook and then an eye on the' other.
This trtethed will hold the dress shut
and save you from much dixcoinXuri
and embarrassment.
Trimming for Evening
Cloak
1 STUNNINO eveoiny cloak of thin
A black satin lined wltb emerald
green bad a hood and slashed
bandings of thin 'striped gold net,
under which the black was cut away
so As to give a lovely green-under-Kold
effect. The heavy tassels were
of gold, a and the whole effect
was
nagnincent. ,.
Ribbon Work
with an over-and-over stitch effect
wherever visible above the fabric. This
la the method used with large flowers,
men as roees and pansles. Sometimes
the leaves are worked In this method,
the Stems in heavy twilledTembroidery
silk, and the flowers are simply quilled
and puffed ribbon about an inch and a
half wide. This is very striking in bor
ders to lampshades and screens. : r
' The color is really the all-Important
thing. On a white-trained evening dress,
what more gorgeously beautiful than
inauve orchids or little orange-yellow
chrysanthemums?, And every one of the
multitudinous rose colors can be gained,
from the white rose to the crimson ram
bler;! even the pink and yellow tearose
is no; unobtainable. , '
The. work has so far in Its renais
sance been applied mainly to dress.
Court trains in England were being
trimmed in this way before the king's
death, and bridal gowns of soft liberty
silk have been seen trimmed with white
orange blossoms, but its possibilities are
endless. I have mentioned lampshades
and screens; the latter are especially,
pretty in Japanese effect, with purple
irises and gilt ribbon chrysanthemums.
Then there are white china silk shawls,
which are lovely with tiny silver tissue
and ash-pink roses instead of the con
ventional quilling or fringing; parasols,
- smart lu tan with red geraniums in a
" regular conventional pattern, or dainty
In light blue with tiny . wreaths ot tlulc
rosebuds: bureau sets, wonderfully st
tractive la heavy dotted net over light
green and with a traced border of sweet
1 eryssurn or violets.
Thus in dress, in the household and in
all the dainty nondescripts that add the
llnishtng touch to a personality or to a,
.. home the value of artlstio ribbon work
' is evident. .Extreme care Is necessary in
its making, for nothing shows more
plainly the effect of bungling or ama
teurish methods; but when well done,
with the proper implements and tn
needed attention to beauty and det.nl.
it Is so lovely (hat many women t
never again satisfied with colored em
broidery after having compared it Will
ribbon work. ' ' , . ,
, It Is certainly an art well revived, awt
let us hope that, without becoming com.
mon property to the estent that tha fii-
tidlous disdain it, it will grow to !)
- known and atwreciat by all women in
tereated in the art of delicate nee.M-
- work. ;
Latest in Petticoats
DUESa underskirts are of fine mii
lln or bat'Ste. I.fti'e is nwfo tit" I
in trimming than embroidery, I
trtinmlug bing neat rather tha i v'.i
orate. Alluver embrold' ry, Uu,.
chmy. torchon snd honlton s.Uii.gs
, ... , : .
V . iUSerUOnS Sie B
insertion are best.
Under . wh drenses,
chambnvv and batiste
.: under i wanh drewi, ivlvi' l
,. rhambrnv and batiste' pi-ttlcewM
in white, with white Ue ,m
.colored riboon vw'--,
i-Among novelties (' ;
. peUU'oais with a ' t!'ii,M - n.
' the knee. eKib'''!''"' 1 in
(iniiiU ui;h u l.i. H.i.,,, i.,,.
Of the tanta tliAMiv
ymim