The Oregon daily journal., November 22, 1908, Page 33, Image 33

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8 THERE a girl in the world who
has not stood before ' the mirror
nd wondered If she wa technical
ly beautiful? Is there any woman
who has not longed to know what pro
portion means, that she inay Judge by
the tape measure whether she is blessed
with a good figure or not?
If there is an exception to the general'
rule, then I am not writing for her. If
there Is a woman, old or young, who Is
not Interested In her appearance, then
I cannot hope to appeal to her with my
doctrine of beauty, either natural or ac
quired. There have been questions asked me
t various times about the proportion
for the feminine figure and I sympa-.
thlze with these queries, and now I want
to give a full, and satisfactory answer.
And I think I can. The best I can do
is to give the correct measurement of
woman, not from modern, but from Gre
cian standards. This only is possible.
After that, every girl may work out the
proportion for herself by taking her own
type Into consideration.
But remember, please, that there has
never been a standard for the corseted
woman. The only perfect standard Is
the figure of Venus, who never knew
confining clothes. The modern figure
changes. One year it Is the fashion to
have a very small waist. This means
that the hips will be larger, and the
figure of Venus cannot be taken as a
model. Another year, as now, hips will
be out of fashion and waists will be
correspondingly large. To attain this
end all the lines of the figure must be
straightened; even the bust must be
so draped that there is almost an im
perceptible curve.
The standard of the Greeks' required
that a perfect woman should be 5 feet S
Inches tall when she was standing flat
on the floor. On the height the rest of
the measurements were based. AVIth
arms outstretched the distance from the
tip of one middle finger to the tip of
the other should exactly equal the
height. The length of the head, from top
to tip of chin, should equal one-tenth
of the height; the foot, one-seventh of
the height; the diameter of the chest,
one-fifth of the height.
The length of the forearm, from the
elbow to the tip of the middle finger,
should equal the distance from the elbow
to' the center of the chest, when the arm
Dinner Party Manners
MOHE people have been frightened
at the prospect of attending a
formal dinner party than at
any other form of entertainment; but
. this excessive timidity is quite un
necessary, for if the dinner is well ar
ranged, there will not be a moment
when the hostess does not lead the
way. I will, however, review the de
tails of a dinner for the benefit of
the doubtful ones.
In the first place, the guests should
arrive within live minutes of the hour
set. This allows time for them to go
to the room appointed, remove their
wraps and descend to the drawing
room, where they greet their host and
hostess. We will presume thedinner
to be given in a private house, and in
that case the dressing room for the
men Will probably be on the same
floor (the second), as the room for
the women. In the latter there will,
or should be, a maid In attendance,
and en the dressing table there will
be many little things that a woman
would requlre-haifpins. pins, flower
pins, brushes, combs, a hand mirror
and, if possible, a needle and thread.
This last ia. of course, In case of ao
cldents. Unaccustomed people are,
very often, too timid to ask the maid
for what they want; but they need
only remember that she Is there to
help them and what they ask will not
be out of tha ordinary. Never use the
perfume of the hostess, for her room
will probably be the one chosen aa a ,.
dressing room, and do not use any or
her personal belongings.- -
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U beld on a level with the shoulder,
with elbow bent, so the hand touches the
phest.
The length of the foot should equal
. the dlstnnce from the top of the fore
arm to the chin.
The roald will remove your carriage
shoes and take your wraps from you,
and when you are satisfied with your
appearance you may go down to the
drawing room. At a dinner party
never arrange to meet even your hus
band In the hall. Go down alone or
with some friend that you have met
In the dressing room.
The arrangements for the men are
similar to those for the women, except
that there Is not necessarily a valet
present to attend to masculine wants.
At very formal parties there will be a
butler at the foot of the steps, who will
hand each man a tiny envelope upon a
silver tray or salver. In this he will
find a card bearing the name of the
woman he is to take In to dinner. If he
does not know her. he mentions the fact
to his hostess when he greets her and
she will present him. He then tells his
partner that he believes he Is to have
the pleasure of taking her in, and he
should remain by her sldd, unless she Is
surrounded by qthers. In that case he
may wander away and speak to his
friends, but when dinner is announced
he should return promptly to her.
AT TELE TABLE
-At less formal parties the host ' or
hostess will tell the men whom their
partners will be. .
A man taking his .partner to dinner
will offer her his right arm, if the other
men are thus escorting then- partners,
or ha may merely walk at her left sido. ,
Be guided in this by the other men
present. It is a custom! that varies in
different parts of the country.
At each olace at tha table there will
be a dinner card with the name of the
guest who fs to ait there, and when the
seats are found, the men 'pull out tha
chairs for the women, and when they
are seated the men take their own '
chairs. Sometimes there are footmen
who seat both men and women of
course, the women first
'Oysters are usually served, and, aa
they are always eaten with a small and
rather peculiarly ahaped fork, tha posi
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Mil - r iz it
'THE OREGON SUNDAY. JOURNAL,' PORTLAND, SUNDAY
Si
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A woman of 5 feet 5 inches In height
Should have a wutat that measures 27
Inches, and a bust that measures 34
inches, but the bust measure taken over
the arms should be 43 Inches.
The upper arm should be 13 Inches in
tion of the silver may be judged by th
position of this. If the tuble is properly
set, this fork will be on the outside at
the right hand, with a soup spoon next,
and whatever other utensils are needed
follow In order in a line extending
toward the plate. Many dinners are begun1-with
caviar, but the next fork In
the line will be the oys:er fork, so it
may still be used as a guide. If the
hostess sets her table the ether way, as
it were, the first fork will be beside the
plate and the others in order extending
in a line away from the plate.
When in doubt, the experienced guest
will always wait until the hosiers has
picked up her fork or spoon, ami then lie
or she will follow her example. Tills
is the only really safe thing to do. At
'.Very large dinners the guests begin to
eat when they are served, but it Is al
ways more polite to wait until every one
at the 'table is served before starting.
It is not necessary to eat all of every-i
thing eet before you, .-ut it Is always
better form to taste everything and look
as though you were eating it- That is
a duty you owe your hostess.. The best
has been provided, and you should, at
least, pretend to enjov it.
In the meantime, talk to your dinner
partner and do what you can to make
the dinner agreeable. One woman or"
one man at the head or foot of the
'table cannot keep a long line of people
-entertained unless they do a little for
themselves. Do not talk of things that
may not be discussed by the other peo
ple at the (able, and do not discuss tha
other guests. Keep' the conversation
general aa possible, and amusing, so the
other guests may Join ou If they so
desire. To do this it is not neoessary to
ahout your -remarks, if they are mus- -Ids;,
you will not lack an audience.
After tha dessert 'be hostess looks
round the table, and when she has at
tracted the attention of the women thr
all rise and retire to the drawing room,
leaving the men to amok and talk
alone. For this reason, toward the end
of tha dinned , women should glance
once In a while at th hostess, so when
aha give tha signal they will be ready.
. Whn the women have fathered in tha
Health and Beauty
MRSJHLNRY SYMES
Sw
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circumference, the thigh 25 inches, the
calf of the leg 144 Inches, the ankle 8
Inches, and the weight should be 138
pounds. This is all that she may carry
gracefully.
These are the measurements prescribed
"by the Greeks, the most artistic people
the world has ever known, but we may
not all hope to' attain this perfection.
In fact, if we did we should find that
the clothes of the present would not '
suit us at all. and at the moment the
required weight would be almost 35
pounds too much.
The measurements for the length of .
the head, the feet, and the forearm
are always correct, but the size of the
waist and bust must conform to a
modern standard.
The Greeks were, however, not the
only judges of beauty, for there are
scientists who have given their lives
to the matter and among these was
Dr. Stratz. He held that the only per
fect type of woman in existence Is i
the Javanese, and his rules in regard
to measurement are well worth at
tention. He says that the height
should be seven times the length of
the head, sixteen times the length of
the face and nine times the length of
ether room each should try to be just
as pleasant as sue was while at dinner.
The absence of the men merely puts
more responsibility upon the shoulders
of the women. Remember. It Is they
who will send out all future Invitations.
When the men return to the drawing
room It Is not necessary to immediately
stop talking. The men soon find those
to whom they wish to talk, and a man
need not rejoin his dinner partner unless
he so desires. It is not part of his duty.
He should, however, say good-night to
her.
TIME TO GO
The time for leaving must be decided
Individually, but it is well to bear in
mind that a dinner invitation does not
usually Include an invitation for the
night. An hour or so after you have
left the table is long enough to stay.
Do not wear out your welcome! When
you go you need only say good-night
to the people you are talking to and to
your host and hostess, .and with these
you must shake hands. Tha othera you
need not speak to at all. Of course,
the good-nights are all said before you
go upstairs for your wraps. When you
have them you cro down the stairs and
out the front door. If a girl has her
maid coma for her she may wait in the
hall or dressing room some place where
ha may easily be found.
The men, too, make their adieus be
fore, they go for their hats and coat.
If a man is' taking a girl home, or a
husband his wife, he gets his coat and
waits for her at the front door, s they
may go right out without again appear
ing in the drawing rtntm or coining in
contact) with the other guests: -
I think I have now covered any point -that
might be obscure to tha newly
f edged debutante and to those who are
Unaccustomed to formal entertainments.
If there should be any point upon which
I am- not quite clear, I hope that my
friends will write for a mora lucid ex-
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Willi 11 K UUi IB a suit 7 lUki ivvi Ww
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MORNING, NOVEMBER 22, 1
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PERPLEXITIES SOLVED
Not Worth Noticing
WILL yon kindly ai!lne a voung elfl
who la b;r,g much annoni by
t youuc man who was once her
V'lumiMul husband? landing wAcuulJ nut
iid alunfi logulhcr, e agreed lc l-fak ih
ngagemcnt.' We returned rich titht-is let
ter! but two. which be lold ni i.e h'
deiroyed. Since tluin I learned throuuh
friendj that he kept those letters nl i
khowing them to hla Irlenda. It la rather
embnrrawnnif for trie, and 1 have appealed
to him; but he only neer and says "the
letters ara his. Is there no way 1 can make
him return tha letter?
A DISTRACTED GIR.U
Mrs. Symes has handed me your letter,
which was evidently intended to go In
my Etiquette column. I hardly knuw
what to tell you to do to the young
man, who Is too despicable to talk a!out.
Showing letters you wrote to him puts
him in ft much worse position than it
does you, and your friends will only
feel contempt for him, not for you. It Is
certainly unfortunate that you should be
troubled so; but you should feel thank
ful that 'you broke your engagement
with him. Don't worry about It. for I
am sure it will come out all right. Do
not humble yourself by asking him for
the letters. Ignore him and the letters,
too.
A Formal Reply
Please tell me the correct form In wh'rh
to answer a d:n.ter Invitation.
Mrs. I EX
If the Invitation Is worded in the
usual way Mr. and Mrs. 'So-and-so
request the pleasure, etc the answer
Is. written In the same style '"Mr. and
Mrs. John Doe accept with pleasure the
kind invitation of Mr. and Mrs. KIchard
Roe to dinner on Saturday evening,
April nineteenth. 190g, at 8 o'clock."
When writing the note the names,
Mr. and Mrs. John Doe and Mr. and
Mrs. Richard Roe. should occupy a line
air by themselves. .
Tha date' of tha dinner and the hour
should always be repeated as I have
Indicated, 'so that. .should there have
been a mistake In tha invitation, ft' may
be corrected before tha time of the en
tertainment. '
If. however, yoti wish-to decline the
Invitation yiu would write: "Mr. and
Jdra. John Doe regret their inability to
accent tha kind invitation of Mr. and
lira Y?lia iH 13 si trt fi1nnr nn Rati
Mrs. Richard Roe to dinner on Saturday
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'MWfTMl fl'flsVsti'i .Ht tfcsBasu
the hand. The leg should be four times
the length of the head and the shoul
ders two heads wide. This gives us
an entirely new set of figures, which
are really more satisfactory than those
of the Greeks, for he does not pre
suppose any given height. He works
entirely in proportions, so that any
woman, be she tall or short, may And
out how nearly she approaches per
fection. For the jjirl who does her measur
ing without the aid of her tape meas
ure there are a few simple rules. Her
throat should be easily circled by the
thumbs and econd fingers of her two
evening, April nineteenth." If you are
not going to the dinner It Is not necea
sary for you to repeat the time, but tha
entertainment and the date of same
should both be written.
Duties of Best Man
Plena? tell rr hat are the duties or a
best man at a wedding. L M. P.
In olden times the best man was sup
posed to attend to the financial end of
the bridegroom's affairs, to hire the
carrijiKe to be used by the bridegroom
and himself, to attend to the trunks,
to (linage the room at the hotel where
ihu party was to spend Its honey
moon. At tlie present time he fees the
minister, the sexton and the organist
if tiiere Is one. He holds the ring until
the time routes for him to hand it to
the bridegroom. He drives to the
church with the bridegroom, and he
waits at his right hand until the bride
joins them at the altar, and he stands
beside the groom during the ceremony.
He holds lila own and the bridegroom's
hut. and he sees that the carriages are
rosily for the bridesmaids and guests.
In other words, he does all that he
ran to make things run easily and
smoothly, and he attends to all affairs
that the bridegroom is supposedly too
nervous to see to.
"Seeing Nellie Home"
Is it light to Inwte your escort Into th
house altar an evening entertainment?
INEXPERIENCED.
It is not good form to talk to anybody
on your own front door steps without
suggesting that they come In. unless it
be entirely too late. In that case, you
may men'ion the lateness of the hour,
make a few courteous remarks, and
then say, "Good-night, and thank you."
Formal Calls
I have lately niocV.l to a new neighbor-
hood, and many iopJe have called upon
me. lion soon should 1 return their rail?
SUBURBANITE B
Etiquette demands that every call .
should bo paid Inside of two weeks, and
It will be better if you could possibly
mansse to daft weI1 within that length
of time.
' " " H.ui
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hands joined together. Her thumb and
middle finger stretched wide should
span the length of her face; the thumb
and middle finger of one hand joined
should encircle the wrist. What could
be easier than this?
The face should be a perfect oval
wlth the greatest width at the ends of
the ,eycbrows just ' over the temples,
and It should divide equally in three
zones the first from that top of tha
forehead to the ey'ebrows, the second
from there to the base of tha nose,
the third from that point to the end
of the chin. The forehead should be
neither high nor law, the nose should
be straight-only slightly depressed
at the bridge ,and just as long as the
forehead is high?
But in all this measuring you will
say there is no mention of the hips. X .
know it. Their" also ia one of the most
difficult things to determine. . From
the standpoint of the corseted woman
without reference to classio require
ments, I should say that a woman
6 feet 5 inches in height should have
hips that measured between SB and 49
inehes. The hips of the present mo
ment. With the fad for the dlrectolre at
its height, . may measure exactly the
same as the bust and be not a bit too
small.
The Judges of classic beauty hold,
however, that the hips should be much
wider than the shoulders. The hips are a
matter of fashion and sometimes we
dare to rival Verius!
I have now given you the most au
thentic figures that I can find, and, al
though they may not bo universally
satisfactory, I am sure that every one
may user them as a basts of calcula
tion. Should there be ahy further
question I shall be glad to hear It.
Mrs Symes' Aids
to Correspondents
OWING to the great amount of j
mall received and tha limited i
space given this department, ., .
it Is absolutely impossible to
answer letters in the Sunday Issue fol
lowing their receipt. The letters must
be answered in turn, and this ofttlmss
requires three or four weeks.
All correspondents who desire aa .
immediate answer must inclose a self- .
addressed stamped envelope for a re
ply. This rule must also be 'complied
with In regard to personal letters.
A Perfect Figure
I would like to know If my figure la tsj
proportion. I am S feet 4 Inches tall,
weigh 130 pounds. My hip measure Is
42 inehes, walit measure 14. laches and bust
measure Inches. MAT F. -1 ,
According to the measurement for
patterns your figure is quite correct ex
cept that your bust Is too small. To
suit the present style your bust should
measure 3G Inches, your hips should
measure not more than 40 inches.. Tou
may reduce your hip measure by roll
ing on the floor with your arms over
your head. I am giving you a formula
for Increasing the size of the bust.
A Massage to Develop the Bust.
Lanolin 1 ounce
Cocoa butter t ounoe
Sweet almond oil louse
J'ul in ainall bowl, set In hot water un
til melted. Ileal together and cool. Sack
n grit, arter laying hot cloth on buat.
rub it in by massaging gently and thor
oughly In a circular direction for flfta
minutes.
More Haste, Less Speed
1 have put peroxide on my hair, and
now I don't Ilka tt. What can I dor
, TROUBLED.
I think that time only will bring your
hair buck to its natural color. Do not
use any more peroxide and wash your
hair with pure soap. In the course
of time it will come around all right.
Cucumber Cream
Will you kindly send m a good formula '
for cucumber cream T I hav tried Very
hard to eel this, and could Ond nothing
like. K T. A
1 think the re lpe I am giving you will ;
be satisfactory.
Cucumber Cream
Small cucumbers ..
olive oil ,
i ottnree
Lanolin I ounc
j
or
White wax 1 drain
bpermaeett I rra
Heat olive oil. 611c up the oucumbera,
not removlug the peel, and plat In the
IL Leave for twenty-four hums, strain.
Oily Hair . '
Mr hair is extremely l!y. and about a
week after It I waahod it become so (lit- -"cult
to arrange that 1 hav had to Chang .
, my sty la of batr dreaatng. Co yow a
g anything for at to dot
. f ..... MisiroRTUWE.
1 am sure that t'fan help you. Th
formula given below for ily Kur
should b rubbed- on your ! n:..-.
every two daya with absorbent " t .
It la best to u absorbent cotton ( ,r
tt may be thrown away after um-.,
? Formula for Oily ,11 sir.
Alcohol . ....................I...,. i
Witch hal ... t ft . ,
Beeorcln Hi .
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