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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Nov. 8, 1908)
V The New Models Are Elaborately Draped and Weighted . With'EmBroideries aiid Braiding's. Evening' Dresses Have SRirts of Beautiful Lines and Much Trimming. HOW much longer, I woader, will klrt b th all absorbing topic tbey bow art. Sine the first directoire aklrt burst upon ear astonished eyes many, moona go, the sorbin of our lower limb haa been toe everburning question of . the boor. If you happen to be near a group ot naff a doseu Idle women you are very sure to overhear scraps of conversation that as cure yoa Uiat the aklrt question la on the tapis. "Dreadfully skimpy, but my tailor simply wouldn't let roe ". "She Jnst wound and. wound herself op In It until Anally she sst right down on the ' floor of the car." ' petticoats? My dear, no one wears petticoats!" "Two yards and a half around! Why, that'a quite wide. Mine only - measure .....?. "And, .of ourse, I can't sit down In It Bat the standing's so thinning I"' . After ail, why: ebouldn't women discus aklrtaT Better skirts than scandals, and - I'm sura there 1 nothing more essentially feminine- of course, I mean . the skirts. That tbey -will -proTlda food for discussion for some time to come seems yery prob able from the-present fashion, outlook. There la no laek of adjectives wbea one comes to describe skirts. Beautiful, bizarre, artistic, eccentric, graceful, hideous oh, one could go on Indefinitely and yet 'find there waa more to tay. For undoubtedly Jnst now, the skirt's the thing. In it we find most markedly the .rapid changing of the kaleidoscopic mode. From France hare 'com to us this sea son some amaslng things. It would seem tbnt tbe designers bad turned and twisted tbelr poor brains as tbey later turned and twisted the fabric of their models to evolve tbe extraordinary garments which tbey have sent across to us labelled "cor rect" and with great dressmakers' name attached. And on skirts has moat of their attention been fixed. For each succeeding Importation show the skirt climbing ambitiously higher and threateningly to put the "bodice," a our English frienda call it. out of commission entirely. Indeed, some of the fashionable bail gowna consist of little else than a long, tightly swathed aklrt, a couple of shoulder straps and a few fold df fleeh- eolored tulle laid acrosa where the -waiat ought to be! Long ago we discovered that this year and bow much longer heaven only knows such a thing a a waist-line would be unknown, and aa for a waist-belt 1 Oh, back to tbs woods for daring to suggest anything so completely out of date Ot coarse, there axe a few benighted and m !.;t: ; a . y- : . - . i am rV Yti -t.fi:: v-..rvvv..K.ill'A,J mm Only Two and a HalfYards at the Hem, and the "Ground, tjie- Short ' Shirt Is Usee! Solely for Walhing. ef fin lac completed a simple but in dividual frock. Satin ribbon. like all satin fabrics. Is playing a large part la np-to-date fashions. Bun tBtoogh large, embroidered; eyeleta It Is used to lace together the aklrt shown In the sketch lettered "A,". 1711 for the wearer of this model if she be slen der and fashionably hipleas. for tbla form' 'of trimming baa, an unfortunately widen ing effect. And speaking ot widening effects, bare you seen some of the dear fat ladiea In the new habit back aklrtaT I'm quite aware that "fat" is tbe most insulting of epithets, but "fat" tbey obviously are algbt to mnke one weep. Do' let me Im plore you, if Nature has been over-generous In the matter of hips and your phys ical culture teacher hns not yet been suc cessful In subduing them, to eschew the habit back skirt. On a slim, up-and-down figure nothing ia more charming, but on any one inclining to stoutness yon sea bow delicately I put It, don't you 1 it la, to any tbe least, not becoming. American women long ago decided never to be parted from their comfortable walk ing skirts, cut to clear tbe ground. I am sure that this year their resolution were shaken. If they were ever going to be, foe the French designer persistently sent out models, so-called street salts, with grace fully trailing skirts. Then did the adapter of fashions on this side find it wis to "get busy" and chop off those graceful trains, for the American woman would bave-nou of them. But It look more than one strug gle to stick to the resolution, fofgraoeful beyond question are these long skirts, and absolutely In keeping wltb tbe long lines of fbe fashionable coats. Only In the most strictly tailored sulta for morning wear will the woman with any pretensions to sumrtuess have a short cut aklrt, and then it must barely escape the ground. 'Ankle length, skirt are now In the wont possible taate. Wlfb suits for every occasion bat walking, for MrtTr log. tealng or calling, skirt sweeping tbe ground will be the thing. In long, scant lines tbey hang, obviously without under skirt. ! walking length skirt the "box cut" 1 the -latest and most 'fashionable. It bug tbe figure tightly almost te the knee and is extremely narrow around the hem. Plaited skirts, although a few are till being worn, are fast going oat. And 1, for one. breathe a sigh of reliet Pleata that tay In are all tery well, but pleata that are always eoming out are an abomin ation. The trn trimmed gored skirt, perfectly cut and hong, with perhaps a bias fold ot the material directly at the foot, t fod model to a walking skirt and one you would be safe to choose. It may hare ibe perfectly fiat back and open on fide sea in In front, or have aa inverted plait and opening In the back. But not aa inch of unnecessary material must there be. Tbe appalling "split" aklrt ba dons the disappearing act with greaj success, and all that remains to remind us .of Us brief and meteoric career is an occasional skirt buttoned up the sloe, a few buttons left undonv towa.'d the hem. Below this Is a thick and modest underskirt, wbieb 1 In deed part of the skirt itself. .Barely it Is of a contrasting color. Afternoon and evening gowns have skirts of almost Indescribable designs, so guaUt and fanciful are tbey. Wit panels and oversklrts, long, sweeping draperies and -stole-ilk hangings, caught up with flowera tied la with ribbons, bound about with sashes and weighted with gold and Oriental embroideries, It is difficult to give a pen ploture of them. - That tbey are tbe last word In feminine charm of dress any ona with the eye artistic mast admit. Alas I that not always la the term wlthla .salted to live In such environments. Only one figure had the designers In mind wbea they evolved the triumphs of this season, and that the slightest and most svelte. However, here's : oping we may all attain It before the fashion changes. . Dancing frocks with long draped over- L A Afternoon Skirt with Novel Lacing of Satin Ribbon on the Overskirt. B A Charming Model for a Slight and Youthful Wearer. C The New "Box Cut" Walking Skirt. D Skirts Draped from' Back to Front Below the Hip Are Some of the Late Importation. E Skirt Are Seen Cut Completely on the Bias. F A French Model Walking Skirt. G The "Envelope Skirt" One of the Successes of the Season. H Dancing and Dinner Gowns Have the Skirt Lifted at One Side to Show the Foot and Ankle. B old-fashioned women who Insist on their tailor-made sklrta nt lenst stopping some where near the equator. But they are women with ideas of tbelr own, who de cline to follow slavishly tb pace that foreign fashlon-makera set. As some one very patly remarked to nrs the other day, "If you haven't got a waistline, how can yonr skirts step there?" There is certainly something in that So we find the line of the skirt lifted high bp under tbe arma in all (fashionable frocks and -all It what period you pleaae. Empire, Dlrectolre or Renaissance it 1 her te stay for some time. Charmingly supple and drapable te colli a nseful word are the cloths of thi sen sen and tailors and modistes are tak ing full advantage ot these qualities. Some of the new model skirts are hung by hands whose art one can't deny. As witness, the skirt sketched In the illus tration lettered "D." One fold draped wrongly and the whole effect weuld be spoiled. But as It Is, It Is a skirt aa graceful aa unique and the heavy hand embroidery running up the boxplalt givea M a touch of richness, which is repeated in the sospender-llke straps of embroid ered cloth which suspend tbe skirt frem tbe shoulders. Of quite another effect is the model shown in the sketch marked "B." Here we hsve a very simple and ordinary over skirt lifted far out of the plane of the usual by tbe clever use of wide satin rib bon. A charming idea thiis Is, and one quite capable of copying. In this case tbs frock was made of a silky cashmere, bat silk voile, messaline or chiffon cloth could be used to equal advantage. Long sleeve of the same material and a gulmpi ' . Mia skirts are lifted at one side to show tb dainty slipper and silken stocking. And, by the way, stockings ornamented on the instep with little dangling tassels are a new conceit, the outcome of the general rage for dangling- effects. One thing it is well to remember, and that that the line between skirt snd waist be as nearly lost as possible on Intondeil for sll occasions. Tbs wirf mn in anme wflv be hrooebt up and incorporated with the material it the waist Is must gowns , TJ1 fr e Ho-Osetvife to 'Remember When FORCEifENT of tbe Pure Food law when made is full of sticks m Is now a very groat protection for of poor tea Add t t i 'wr' ga Very cneP coffee may be nifle-tenths little strong coffee Is mixed with the spnr- upon. She Goes to Mar Kef. Uses by tradesmen. Still It Is best tor of red of .. ' " """"a amount and bean mixed with the coffee berries also. marketing and bargaining. every one who bas occasion to go to mamei or yeliow . " vura reuaisn wnea these are bought whole cannot be The woman who gives a righteous price Sandy sugar may be rare, but dirty sugar to be able to further minimise the chance fCig ir0nflii tes wltn m'u detected. The color Is tbe same, and the for her tea and coffee never get served Is not; ths Is tbe cheap stuff again. : AII of being imposed upon. weight and thi i ih " le 1w pIec"1 re UmP 0Qt to Imitate coffee with stuff like this. Neither will she get sugar sweepings are gathered together and It is the woman who beats down prices deal J . . the qoaUty of a good beans. If these ar awkard to detect it In a respectable shop. The cheap shops sold at a price below the market price tor and want everything as cheap as possible , . p Tttt tlJr tam led when the berries are bought whole and that give away presents with pounds of ordinary .sugar.' It Is not good policy to who get adulterated goods st times. And . the leave V th' tlCk reaartste,l. it I quit impossible to find goods are some of the sinners. The pack- buy It, either for cooking of tor any other serve her right If she wants things cheap . 'eaves aDa nnot ne detected. The them out in the crashed coffee. The cheap- ets are cunningly marked so that they purpose. r and bad, it Is right she should have them. tne hf-r :h" " P!tie, and est ina is mixed with burnt bread, and account for mlxturea. And It Is th very Flour, Instead of being all wbeaten. may y-i. j, .,. .u " "J7 us a irauu. tnia can ba round out In the frnnnrtu . uuit very great protection tor of poor tea. Add to th! hi n ' cueap cones may oe mne-ienus nine strong conee is mixed wun tne housekeepers sgalnst dishonest prsc- ,jark tf " PlackIel to give chicory, a cheap enough root. Roasted peas ious stuff to give flavor. Acorns ar by tradesmen. Still it Is best for 0f red or v.linw h 1 8 moun, nd be"0 mlxed with the coffee berries also. e who fall the readiest victims, albeit used ' many poor women are veritable adepta la Only, as t rule, she wants things cheap. , but at tbe same time, good. Many thing ar both cheap and good. But other thing are not If one wants good tea. It 1 right to pay a fair price, .that Is, If the article is of fins quality enough. The woman who wants cheap tea gets It Bat th tea In tb gaudily-arranged packet la apt to be very small in amount Bhe, may get willow leave, rose leaves, many common leaves of all kinds, so long ns they are well pointed add with serrated edges. Only Jut eneugb tea oftenUme is put with these to give 'flavor, " Bom brand ar scented with tea-esaence and contain asxt to no tea, Th Infusion A poor, who can least afford to be Imposed be mixed with tb much cheaper cor Why Flirting Is Often the Real Cause , of Lovers' Quarrels. By a Woman of Experience, IT is the case with many lovers after a quarrel to take tb first opportunity to rush into a tremendous "flirt" Now, could anything be more unwise, more in sincere? Flirtations r more productive of heartfelt pain that anything known ot, and I strongly advise my readers not t fall back on this very, very questionably form of "paying hack aa old score." I hay before now remarked that sweet! hearts art pros Jo expect too much el one another; new, I would suggest that another, that Von ar constantly before with him; snd, surely, It bor sweetheart lovers -flre too often led to "misinterpret" ona another in a word, you lust Jov one lored her, and trusted her, he wonld that U. ht maimif r aimnia ,tl,. , - not have denied her the happinen of fuily h . . .tif f. V P ae- another. -. entering; Into tb Joy. and, pleasures ot the uous into "flirtation. Terhaps the most troublesome period ia evening. It is not flirtation, - Do not I am acquainted with young men and the nve of "weetbeart U when on ha to tbluk it U, yoong Bavt To become eo- womeu woo positively growl and grumble lance or basaar without the pther. SSKlfiui the "mall enJoTmentrot iSff inwardly if one or tbe other passes tbe tak 11 dance, for Instance. ifcave and lead th lit of a reclnse, time of day with a member of their re- knon an engaged girl convert herself Into vent a re to believe ' that when "a girt spective opposite sex. How very foo.ish. a P'tire "wallflower" J,ecu.e she rtiltwSoweve? wea'h. ma? CtJ .'mSI how. very mistrustful I Whnam . thought It would not he rlcht for ber to fnnt.tlc tnh. u ,n h. tu t.i.b?. speak to, the one yoa love and who love "S0! J00 mlicll wit? -the5 Jroo?f Jnw,'v ' ?f 'T ot one, aao?1onging that it was .m akA.ilj iw..!....,.. ' w J liou ser r uvea luvxir, warn Be sn VM aancin With. yoo should remembtt that yea poes on would ot ; bay danced tlt whola sreoms taking fcwout to suppsi anclng with, and that ha was flour, or with other cereals.. Sometime It ts kent In a damp place, and then it weighs more heavily. Butter may contain so mach water that an unwary marketer may pay a quarter ot its price for water Itself. Fancy paying buttsr-prlce for wtter! Again, when an unscrupulous tradesman 1 sure of bis cus tomer, he may mix margerme with the salt butter and sell this at th higher rate. Egg may be, new-laid, freab, store, or crate. Each of these term indicates a different degree of freshness and of price. Btal eggs float on water and fresh ones sink. In breaking abop eggs, It is wise to crack each Into a cup for fear of a bad one, or a whole batch of good material may havs to'b thrown away. Gtacer Is sometime mixed with nea-flonr or ground rice, tb latter uaHy. Kin starch Is mixed with pepper, and fiouFT put In mustard, which ia artificially coloured. The eolor in green bottled " vegetables, especially peas, 1 sometime due to a salt of copper. Jams, especially when no brand or maker's name appears on tbe pot nisy be half Tegetable pulp. Frnlt Jellies may be half glue, colored, flavored, acidulated chemically with aa tra of m 7-Z . " mhj, JHiCa - K V i
