V
The New Models Are Elaborately
Draped and Weighted .
With'EmBroideries aiid Braiding's.
Evening' Dresses Have
SRirts of Beautiful
Lines and Much
Trimming.
HOW much longer, I woader, will
klrt b th all absorbing topic
tbey bow art.
Sine the first directoire aklrt burst
upon ear astonished eyes many, moona
go, the sorbin of our lower limb haa
been toe everburning question of . the
boor.
If you happen to be near a group ot
naff a doseu Idle women you are very sure
to overhear scraps of conversation that as
cure yoa Uiat the aklrt question la on
the tapis.
"Dreadfully skimpy, but my tailor simply
wouldn't let roe ". "She Jnst wound
and. wound herself op In It until Anally
she sst right down on the ' floor of the
car." ' petticoats? My dear, no one
wears petticoats!" "Two yards and a
half around! Why, that'a quite wide.
Mine only - measure .....?. "And, .of
ourse, I can't sit down In It Bat the
standing's so thinning I"'
. After ail, why: ebouldn't women discus
aklrtaT Better skirts than scandals, and
- I'm sura there 1 nothing more essentially
feminine- of course, I mean . the skirts.
That tbey -will -proTlda food for discussion
for some time to come seems yery prob
able from the-present fashion, outlook.
There la no laek of adjectives wbea
one comes to describe skirts. Beautiful,
bizarre, artistic, eccentric, graceful,
hideous oh, one could go on Indefinitely
and yet 'find there waa more to tay. For
undoubtedly Jnst now, the skirt's the
thing. In it we find most markedly the
.rapid changing of the kaleidoscopic mode.
From France hare 'com to us this sea
son some amaslng things. It would seem
tbnt tbe designers bad turned and twisted
tbelr poor brains as tbey later turned and
twisted the fabric of their models to
evolve tbe extraordinary garments which
tbey have sent across to us labelled "cor
rect" and with great dressmakers' name
attached. And on skirts has moat of their
attention been fixed.
For each succeeding Importation show
the skirt climbing ambitiously higher and
threateningly to put the "bodice," a our
English frienda call it. out of commission
entirely. Indeed, some of the fashionable
bail gowna consist of little else than a
long, tightly swathed aklrt, a couple of
shoulder straps and a few fold df fleeh-
eolored tulle laid acrosa where the -waiat
ought to be!
Long ago we discovered that this year
and bow much longer heaven only knows
such a thing a a waist-line would be
unknown, and aa for a waist-belt 1 Oh,
back to tbs woods for daring to suggest
anything so completely out of date Ot
coarse, there axe a few benighted and
m
!.;t: ;
a . y- : . - . i
am
rV
Yti
-t.fi:: v-..rvvv..K.ill'A,J
mm
Only Two and a HalfYards at the
Hem, and
the "Ground, tjie- Short ' Shirt Is
Usee! Solely for Walhing.
ef fin lac completed a simple but in
dividual frock.
Satin ribbon. like all satin fabrics.
Is playing a large part la np-to-date
fashions. Bun tBtoogh large, embroidered;
eyeleta It Is used to lace together the aklrt
shown In the sketch lettered "A,". 1711 for
the wearer of this model if she be slen
der and fashionably hipleas. for tbla form'
'of trimming baa, an unfortunately widen
ing effect.
And speaking ot widening effects, bare
you seen some of the dear fat ladiea In
the new habit back aklrtaT I'm quite
aware that "fat" is tbe most insulting of
epithets, but "fat" tbey obviously are
algbt to mnke one weep. Do' let me Im
plore you, if Nature has been over-generous
In the matter of hips and your phys
ical culture teacher hns not yet been suc
cessful In subduing them, to eschew the
habit back skirt. On a slim, up-and-down
figure nothing ia more charming, but on
any one inclining to stoutness yon sea
bow delicately I put It, don't you 1 it la,
to any tbe least, not becoming.
American women long ago decided never
to be parted from their comfortable walk
ing skirts, cut to clear tbe ground. I am
sure that this year their resolution were
shaken. If they were ever going to be, foe
the French designer persistently sent out
models, so-called street salts, with grace
fully trailing skirts. Then did the adapter
of fashions on this side find it wis to "get
busy" and chop off those graceful trains,
for the American woman would bave-nou
of them. But It look more than one strug
gle to stick to the resolution, fofgraoeful
beyond question are these long skirts, and
absolutely In keeping wltb tbe long lines
of fbe fashionable coats.
Only In the most strictly tailored sulta
for morning wear will the woman with
any pretensions to sumrtuess have a short
cut aklrt, and then it must barely escape
the ground. 'Ankle length, skirt are now
In the wont possible taate. Wlfb suits
for every occasion bat walking, for MrtTr
log. tealng or calling, skirt sweeping tbe
ground will be the thing. In long, scant
lines tbey hang, obviously without under
skirt. ! walking length skirt the "box
cut" 1 the -latest and most 'fashionable.
It bug tbe figure tightly almost te the
knee and is extremely narrow around the
hem. Plaited skirts, although a few are
till being worn, are fast going oat. And
1, for one. breathe a sigh of reliet Pleata
that tay In are all tery well, but pleata
that are always eoming out are an abomin
ation. The trn trimmed gored skirt, perfectly
cut and hong, with perhaps a bias fold ot
the material directly at the foot, t fod
model to a walking skirt and one you
would be safe to choose. It may hare ibe
perfectly fiat back and open on fide
sea in In front, or have aa inverted plait
and opening In the back. But not aa inch
of unnecessary material must there be.
Tbe appalling "split" aklrt ba dons the
disappearing act with greaj success, and
all that remains to remind us .of Us brief
and meteoric career is an occasional skirt
buttoned up the sloe, a few buttons left
undonv towa.'d the hem. Below this Is a
thick and modest underskirt, wbieb 1 In
deed part of the skirt itself. .Barely it Is of
a contrasting color.
Afternoon and evening gowns have
skirts of almost Indescribable designs, so
guaUt and fanciful are tbey. Wit panels
and oversklrts, long, sweeping draperies
and -stole-ilk hangings, caught up with
flowera tied la with ribbons, bound about
with sashes and weighted with gold and
Oriental embroideries, It is difficult to
give a pen ploture of them. - That tbey are
tbe last word In feminine charm of dress
any ona with the eye artistic mast admit.
Alas I that not always la the term wlthla
.salted to live In such environments. Only
one figure had the designers In mind wbea
they evolved the triumphs of this season,
and that the slightest and most svelte.
However, here's : oping we may all attain
It before the fashion changes.
. Dancing frocks with long draped over-
L
A Afternoon Skirt with Novel Lacing of Satin Ribbon on the Overskirt.
B A Charming Model for a Slight and Youthful Wearer.
C The New "Box Cut" Walking Skirt.
D Skirts Draped from' Back to Front Below the Hip Are Some of the
Late Importation.
E Skirt Are Seen Cut Completely on the Bias.
F A French Model Walking Skirt.
G The "Envelope Skirt" One of the Successes of the Season.
H Dancing and Dinner Gowns Have the Skirt Lifted at One Side to
Show the Foot and Ankle.
B
old-fashioned women who Insist on their
tailor-made sklrta nt lenst stopping some
where near the equator. But they are
women with ideas of tbelr own, who de
cline to follow slavishly tb pace that
foreign fashlon-makera set.
As some one very patly remarked to nrs
the other day, "If you haven't got a
waistline, how can yonr skirts step there?"
There is certainly something in that
So we find the line of the skirt lifted high
bp under tbe arma in all (fashionable
frocks and -all It what period you pleaae.
Empire, Dlrectolre or Renaissance it 1
her te stay for some time.
Charmingly supple and drapable te
colli a nseful word are the cloths of thi
sen sen and tailors and modistes are tak
ing full advantage ot these qualities.
Some of the new model skirts are hung
by hands whose art one can't deny. As
witness, the skirt sketched In the illus
tration lettered "D." One fold draped
wrongly and the whole effect weuld be
spoiled. But as It Is, It Is a skirt aa
graceful aa unique and the heavy hand
embroidery running up the boxplalt givea
M a touch of richness, which is repeated
in the sospender-llke straps of embroid
ered cloth which suspend tbe skirt frem
tbe shoulders.
Of quite another effect is the model
shown in the sketch marked "B." Here
we hsve a very simple and ordinary over
skirt lifted far out of the plane of the
usual by tbe clever use of wide satin rib
bon. A charming idea thiis Is, and one
quite capable of copying. In this case tbs
frock was made of a silky cashmere, bat
silk voile, messaline or chiffon cloth
could be used to equal advantage. Long
sleeve of the same material and a gulmpi
' .
Mia
skirts are lifted at one side to show tb
dainty slipper and silken stocking. And,
by the way, stockings ornamented on the
instep with little dangling tassels are a
new conceit, the outcome of the general
rage for dangling- effects.
One thing it is well to remember, and that
that the line between skirt snd waist
be as nearly lost as possible on
Intondeil for sll occasions. Tbs
wirf mn in anme wflv be hrooebt up and
incorporated with the material it the waist
Is
must
gowns
, TJ1 fr e Ho-Osetvife to 'Remember When
FORCEifENT of tbe Pure Food law when made is full of sticks m
Is now a very groat protection for of poor tea Add t t i 'wr' ga Very cneP coffee may be nifle-tenths little strong coffee Is mixed with the spnr- upon.
She Goes to Mar Kef.
Uses by tradesmen. Still It Is best tor of red of .. ' " """"a amount and bean mixed with the coffee berries also. marketing and bargaining.
every one who bas occasion to go to mamei or yeliow . " vura reuaisn wnea these are bought whole cannot be The woman who gives a righteous price Sandy sugar may be rare, but dirty sugar
to be able to further minimise the chance fCig ir0nflii tes wltn m'u detected. The color Is tbe same, and the for her tea and coffee never get served Is not; ths Is tbe cheap stuff again. : AII
of being imposed upon. weight and thi i ih " le 1w pIec"1 re UmP 0Qt to Imitate coffee with stuff like this. Neither will she get sugar sweepings are gathered together and
It is the woman who beats down prices deal J . . the qoaUty of a good beans. If these ar awkard to detect it In a respectable shop. The cheap shops sold at a price below the market price tor
and want everything as cheap as possible , . p Tttt tlJr tam led when the berries are bought whole and that give away presents with pounds of ordinary .sugar.' It Is not good policy to
who get adulterated goods st times. And . the leave V th' tlCk reaartste,l. it I quit impossible to find goods are some of the sinners. The pack- buy It, either for cooking of tor any other
serve her right If she wants things cheap . 'eaves aDa nnot ne detected. The them out in the crashed coffee. The cheap- ets are cunningly marked so that they purpose. r
and bad, it Is right she should have them. tne hf-r :h" " P!tie, and est ina is mixed with burnt bread, and account for mlxturea. And It Is th very Flour, Instead of being all wbeaten. may
y-i. j, .,. .u " "J7 us a irauu. tnia can ba round out In the frnnnrtu
. uuit very great protection tor of poor tea. Add to th! hi n ' cueap cones may oe mne-ienus nine strong conee is mixed wun tne
housekeepers sgalnst dishonest prsc- ,jark tf " PlackIel to give chicory, a cheap enough root. Roasted peas ious stuff to give flavor. Acorns ar
by tradesmen. Still it Is best for 0f red or v.linw h 1 8 moun, nd be"0 mlxed with the coffee berries also.
e
who fall the readiest victims, albeit
used ' many poor women are veritable adepta la
Only, as t rule, she wants things cheap.
, but at tbe same time, good.
Many thing ar both cheap and good.
But other thing are not If one wants
good tea. It 1 right to pay a fair price,
.that Is, If the article is of fins quality enough.
The woman who wants cheap tea gets It
Bat th tea In tb gaudily-arranged packet
la apt to be very small in amount Bhe,
may get willow leave, rose leaves, many
common leaves of all kinds, so long ns they
are well pointed add with serrated edges.
Only Jut eneugb tea oftenUme is put
with these to give 'flavor, "
Bom brand ar scented with tea-esaence
and contain asxt to no tea, Th Infusion
A poor, who can least afford to be Imposed be mixed with tb much cheaper cor
Why Flirting Is Often the Real Cause , of Lovers' Quarrels.
By a Woman of Experience,
IT is the case with many lovers after a
quarrel to take tb first opportunity to
rush into a tremendous "flirt" Now,
could anything be more unwise, more in
sincere? Flirtations r more productive
of heartfelt pain that anything known ot,
and I strongly advise my readers not t
fall back on this very, very questionably
form of "paying hack aa old score."
I hay before now remarked that sweet!
hearts art pros Jo expect too much el
one another; new, I would suggest that another, that Von ar constantly before with him; snd, surely, It bor sweetheart
lovers -flre too often led to "misinterpret" ona another in a word, you lust Jov one lored her, and trusted her, he wonld
that U. ht maimif r aimnia ,tl,. , - not have denied her the happinen of fuily
h . . .tif f. V P ae- another. -. entering; Into tb Joy. and, pleasures ot the
uous into "flirtation. Terhaps the most troublesome period ia evening. It is not flirtation, - Do not
I am acquainted with young men and the nve of "weetbeart U when on ha to tbluk it U, yoong Bavt To become eo-
womeu woo positively growl and grumble lance or basaar without the pther. SSKlfiui the "mall enJoTmentrot iSff
inwardly if one or tbe other passes tbe tak 11 dance, for Instance. ifcave and lead th lit of a reclnse,
time of day with a member of their re- knon an engaged girl convert herself Into vent a re to believe ' that when "a girt
spective opposite sex. How very foo.ish. a P'tire "wallflower" J,ecu.e she rtiltwSoweve? wea'h. ma? CtJ .'mSI
how. very mistrustful I Whnam . thought It would not he rlcht for ber to fnnt.tlc tnh. u ,n h. tu t.i.b?.
speak to, the one yoa love and who love "S0! J00 mlicll wit? -the5 Jroo?f Jnw,'v ' ?f 'T ot one, aao?1onging that it was
.m akA.ilj iw..!....,.. ' w J liou ser r uvea luvxir, warn Be sn VM aancin With.
yoo should remembtt that yea poes on would ot ; bay danced tlt whola sreoms taking fcwout to suppsi
anclng with, and that ha was
flour, or with other cereals.. Sometime It
ts kent In a damp place, and then it weighs
more heavily.
Butter may contain so mach water that
an unwary marketer may pay a quarter ot
its price for water Itself. Fancy paying
buttsr-prlce for wtter! Again, when an
unscrupulous tradesman 1 sure of bis cus
tomer, he may mix margerme with the salt
butter and sell this at th higher rate.
Egg may be, new-laid, freab, store, or
crate. Each of these term indicates a
different degree of freshness and of price.
Btal eggs float on water and fresh ones
sink. In breaking abop eggs, It is wise to
crack each Into a cup for fear of a bad
one, or a whole batch of good material may
havs to'b thrown away.
Gtacer Is sometime mixed with nea-flonr
or ground rice, tb latter uaHy. Kin
starch Is mixed with pepper, and fiouFT put
In mustard, which ia artificially coloured.
The eolor in green bottled " vegetables,
especially peas, 1 sometime due to a salt
of copper. Jams, especially when no brand
or maker's name appears on tbe pot nisy
be half Tegetable pulp. Frnlt Jellies may
be half glue, colored, flavored, acidulated
chemically with aa tra of m 7-Z
. " mhj, JHiCa
- K
V i