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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Oct. 11, 1908)
epjtt 10 kj Aaurlre tussiae. Croat Brnata RlgHt Bssarve MmiM mm -if YV) tyiffot) M$ed it) Startlip Uays. ' 1d jes ii) 5arlapcf5 Used : to 055 SIit5 .9 $irt& a ueed Ipto - iiriii 1 i4i I nMiii 1 1 f 1 f i vi? Shoulder Butterflies of Tutte. Dressmakers Disagree. Jop for flyy pi($ure. pour Jtyls from lf)e) to Qlpoose. Dire;toire (Jouyps Draped uitl? WHE doctor dlsagrea. for tb patent! When drewmakere dis agaea, hurrah for th cuatomer! Thus Mr w all of u who have any de gree of clvross, for wba th dress maker disagree there la bop for any flffur. And both big autberltle and little -tborltles dlsgre tbla eon. Paqula baa declared blmslt la opposition to tha close ly lining dlrectotre model and upholds tb graceful empire style. Eva Elisabeth Whit (and no on cam call her a little authority la either mean la of tb word) says tbat disagreement slats.- '. Sb gives na permission, wa poor worms of the four Hundred, whom aha Imagine are fairly writhing to onr aheatb gowna, .to take advantage of tbe disagree ment and wear wbal we choose. Now ab la on tb lectur platform apreadlng tbe glad tidings ,D niany title. Bbe glrea a 3 Tire authoritatively and buoyantly to all tbe timid littl dressmakers bora with plat in tbelr moutba Inatead of allrer spoon. Tbe poor lady ' who weigh ao much tbat ber heart I heavy, too, la now feellog more cheerful. In an dmplr gowa, ao tbe Imagine, no on may know tbe true girth of ber waist' but somehow every on doee know when a woman wear an empire model Juit bow much welat there la below Mr. Willie K. Vanderbllt Sr., always bends over In a manner molt graceful when fhe enter 1 ber box at tb opera. Her gown may be of a rather loose empire style, but somehow the entrancing line below are seen, even by people without tbe eye that baa an X-ray keenness. But every time lovely Mrs. Willie And an ex cuse for tbat. graceful atoop, adorable crea tive though she la, Cholly eternally keep hi opera glasses focusied on young Mr. 111 mm ' (Jrape-lipes Uorr) ip tl?e jiair. Uild Aagnatl W ar an eraey about tha new .cloak vry year, and thy art alao nad blade of tha angular woman wtn b wing tulle gown, aqd ar all baring the moat a a trimming on bar gown. Tbey are ik la ffect. FIh-colord tail ovtllnaa eztrem model mad on tb aiy. Tboa annggled Into th whir tull wing that tb eoraag tad tha reeult at flrat gUae who ar brav wall a banteou wUl atand out en each of hr ibouldra (b fairly tke one' breath away, (or tha eaaay tbm first Certabily "tb mpre lt blgber than toy vtber woman at tb gowa appears to ha cut oat twlc as mvokj Joephlne,M who Is Mrs. W. A. C. Tsylor, opera). Whan a Mttn aklrt la Ut' or a It actually la. Thea I mna sot forgH will adhr to tha Emplr atyle. awaaeu iu n piacn. iu 10 ien you mat tier aruhathnJah r xun wui am uwhs or w uroiaene. hoot Egyptian and Brsanf la Pari both th Americana and th of lac or Tarlslana bav already wora th gown of tull. At an evening girden party, for example, la floated a faclaatlng creature la a coatdm of diver moonlight eatln, over which pal gray tull waa draped and kaotted, swathing th butt and both bin and knee very tightly. - Ther war knot on tb (boulder, on th hip and oa on ank'e, the aklrt being raised so that a silver slipper showed. At th other aid th gown ended In a long trail of tull, and on arm wa draped with th tull while tn other wa bate. Diamonds, cameo and pearls ar used to catch the draper!. The tulle la really "tacked" to th aatln by tb yarc), la aeldom sewed to gether, and never hemmed. , No wonder we ar all so excited tn re gard to th gown on; tb first opera night Of eourae. at tb first aammerit'eln night. tb Dlrectolr gown will 1 mild experi ment. When w ppear at in otnr houM, th Metropolitan, where the dia mond .horseshoe circle, campoasd of tb parterr box, make a how unurpaaed. A Direcloire Evening Gowa with Whit Chiffon UnderJrea Having Sflver Spangles, and a Plastron Heavily Embroidered With Old Blue and Green Brightened with Sil ver. Over the Chiffon There Ar Draperies of Black Mousseline de Soie or Tulle. B A Girlish Evening Frock with Skirt Having Three Lace Flounces and Garlanded with Artificial Pink Rosea, Similar Flowers Forming th Cortag Bouquet C An Evening Gown, Empire in Style, of Rote-Colored Satin Trimmed with Laurel Leare and Grecian Key in Gold, a Long Gold Chain Circling Vail and Falling al Left Side. Row -Colored Mouaselin d Soie Drapes the Left Shoulder and Form the Left Sleeve. D A Direcloire Costume with Skirt of Whit Mouaaelin de Soie Heavily Embroidered with Wide Tulle Draperiei of Egg-Pfcnt Color and Left Sleeve of Embroidered mentn. T think trie f so ahrewd. for be- Tull from Which Hangs Taaael -of Rkh Red or Egg-Plant Color Carneb Ar Sot tween the acts etiquette dictate, that on i8 Embroideries and in Ornament to Which Tassel. Are Attached must turn one's bark to the opera glass nn MMcnefl. battalion-just when they and tbe re- E A Satin Gown PJ. Pink m Color and Princesse-Empire in Model Cameo-Girdl. rij;; tti surz z::0 - c- 9 a s. linve a crown exactl.r like tbat of Mrs. John It. Preiel: the pearls can be un screwed and skj blue Terslan turquoise Pn "I,n Fredericks, th ietres. Tery few days of the Perolntlon, end also later due Ir.serted I just went to bed and cried "f h"r will he dlrectolre In style. In the Consulate and the Emplr period and cried, mid stayed there two weeks "e will be of mignonette-green tln with fter Nsp leon, who waa of th Consular.! iur .... iu lum uiu bh 11 wrrmiri tnai Has a long sua una arisen in all his glory and power prniMtm hjc(uf ; we lire mil mo fully feminine In onr family) bought me a S'-renaUIe tlsia . a t . v f. anil . . t . a ,t l. . , .. . ur ..... - n rcu rimr iqai iiri it neaa ""-u w i.u.ro-cuirers. who nave not prsc- dlnners to glre for bn.kcrs from London shove an English foe. Chollr think Paul- Used thwlr art for fnll, t.... Hv cbsppie- who glre the Ameri- Ine l, lovelr. to..; but I'm not a bit Jealou Xon of tb younger men among th jewel ran women sue!, g .! t,.s a!...ut the mar- onl, of that flirt, Tolly de Teyrter, who nderetand the work, w tbe graybearda " .cir . uoiyu.ueui.. u comm g Home from Irela ud next week. She busy. For many yer ther wss Us- But bow 1 ruu ..u: So. ha.-k to gowns! has been wearing abroad so I heard from u or no work for cameo cutter. mnat te!l tOU that besides the empire a friend-a gorceoo Greek eawn of A.m. The dtreetolr rowna wtlL of : . see the Uioatrst.na c snd resd description) color touched with gold. Really, tf CboUy th MaMtloa of th Moa. Tull ao. lho t . a t "j - rm mm sToiei o ner a ii wa Ikls Snrlne wui swain id flrur and thero r., . I . . . ...tua mplr and prin.-.e model combined, or re,,., t M,nr,. k- .k. ,. . '. will bo f an.. HI - D1"lr fM 1 b revealed. rle were arranged Uk thoM on a ttM th starUUg directoire. -hlct, I. modified Bed procedure eo my oart. TanderhUt ha a stunnlnir detolnP .... " B"y -o arrang- Phldl. ow she wss on or IB mer- or unmodified, a,.,, or .mmodest, so- rZZZ ZL e, In. ion Tull , .S.'irJ "", f .rf-tho srf w. ,nie-th. wonderful onewho fol- t .''Z:'ir" r. " Ii : " atscnswa verl week are and la g- iLmnA th advloo of IK grwi srusa - adopted tb are or - in vou know n j rr , d. Mm Beftr th. Th. .... with fl.m olAsf a i- - .ryie. - Roman aaa rea. o- and aever aaa y - u K ,nf mum ""u unaeu 411 an nia glory and power 1 ao delight- fnnge. Another of "Iondon moke" tulle These cameoa. that will be used to .clasp ntll Cholly is only slightly dlrectolre in lines. Pol- the bewildering tu.le gowns of th Dlrec- uur nous .ue sweet fnoe will rise above tb "LondoB wire period tbla season, will aiv employ, lie had some smoke" like a rod rose tbat lift It head nent to can.eo-cnttefs, who bare not nrc- Egyptian and Brsantlo. an 01 gorgsorj colors, bat used rather spasw ngly. For InsUnc. If yon hav an rtv Ing gowa cut out T-ahapod, th llttl mod eety-plece at th bottom of th T should b of gorgeous m broidery. Th other dy I saw a prim roe satin -with barbarts am. brolderlea of ma-dva gold and llvr also an emerald grea tull vailed In chiffon with a coat of sparkling Jet and a copper colored chiffon laid over aatln and from th bust all around hung a fringe of crystal tbat fell to th ankle. On can manage, however, on but Ifttl money, to be dainty, oven dangerous, when one goes to a balL Tber ar sweet llttl frocks of eoar white not, trimmed only with wld band of soutache braid apptl4 In graceful design. And My, did you over hear of that won derful gowa wora by Southern bell dar ing tb wart Sb waa kwfully poor, ao white tarleton waa her only "wear." She wa going to a moonlight garden party wfcero ther wa to bo a danc on tb lawn, and ah longed to look lovely, se what do you think ah did? Aided by hr mammy, she went out and eangtit basket fula of lightning bugs, or as aomo people call them, flre-flle. Then Into the wld uuDucwe, maue vi wane laneion oouniea, g handful of fire-flies were sewed by thVl chuckling mammy. That night when th pretty girl danced on the. lawn, eb needed no spangles, nor any diamonds, for th flre-fll flashed through tb tarleton and no 00 e received ao many glano, I read all about It tn a book by my friend, Amelia Rlvea, and she told me confidential, ly that this gowa waa a fact, not fabrica tion oa her part. If Cholly prove stingy, 1 I'll have to think of just such ways to fix up my frocks. But Just th mm ther will be no fire flies on me I Calla lllltes will be worn In th hair and also as corsage bouquet. It was Miss Edith Deacon who started this fad In New Tork. Perhaps she knew of a historical reason, but this I can not find. Every where ahe goes, on sees her with tore stiff calla miles, , with long, straight stems standing: upright and thrust Into th cor sag. If her tear should fall they would drop right Into the. calla lily cup. Mrs. Benjamin Guinness (she wa Bridget Bui ley, of Ireland), also wears three stiff calla lllltes as a corsage bouquet ylth her even ing gown. She 1 one of Mrs. John Jacob Astox's chums, so calla lilies are correct entfo ma of largo loll blown roses, be ginning with three at tbe top and Increas ing In number aa tbe alash widens toward th hem. - Th grspe you must wear In your bslr because tbey ar historically correct, but be sure to ask every now and then "Is my wreath on tralghtT" for the wild grspe head dress, If It ' got a bit crooked, will civ von a rakish look like that of a Bac chant. The grapee are metallic, and In Definition. Many children are ao crammed with everything tbat they really know noth ing. . . In proof of this, read these veritaMe specimen of definition, written by pub lic school children: "Stability 1 tuklng car of a arable." "A, mosquito la the child of black and whit parents." "Monastery Is tb plac for monster." "Tocsin 1 something to do with get ting drunk." "Expostulation Is to bav tb small pox." "Cannibal is two brothers who kill each other in th Bible." "Anatomy I th human body, which consists of three parts; the hed. the chlst and th mmtnlck. The head eon tain th ye and bralna, If any. The chlst coutalna the lunga and plec of tbe liver. The stummlck Is devotd to tbe bowels, of . which ther sre flv. a, e, i, o. u, and omtlme w and y. -Newebook. India Precious Metals. f ! estimated that gl. MOO. 000, 000 In gold, and prhaps as much In llvr, i. hidden wav In tb Ulndu stocking. shades of pal gold, red bronxe and purple vast quantities of the precious metals mingled. In tb merry mad daya of Franco.' when they wore th tyle w ar now adopting, .a ltr of Bonpart ao nearad at a ball with her hair bound with Barrow trtp of tiger kln, whlla hug buncbe of gold grape stood ost .oa ch ' side of her hed. Sb wor a girdle of gold set with rameo. Madam Tallica, a ' lively lady of the long- ago yoa remember tb Tallica toque I referred to rent!y) toward th ,nr wor a gowa who dlphao drap- rordlnc to vtfur rcorak tzi Tour firar. t. w.n ii,. i .i ., robln'a vin ...a w . - Vo bav. four .trie, from walrh to ehooee. ho-rrer drapl far more elo-ty aroeM Grecla. gowa of blart tla limit JZlftl m9Ch k U'h r Ton tnm i-t '-, a wi . . t,i. i m . . - . mrwcxoir style. - Bnnins aai " ' m-t mw mmmjvm. i mm VBPuw-pnae SBOoels. " w suigmi urmpsn Bring rroB 9mm ska -. . ttrawBfae. with sV, rhr.:i. mnt i ... . ... - ,v. .v,jt. . " the aetrataatet who most V do- .t war saedals ' ' J s -w-mm m DUBV fml IM gs s rTTf M SMsk siwj SHiVUiuri SB. 1 1 Will rtmrnt iTn I - . w. . ly sh,IPu,g-I y.u, hearts! All of . lmtT9m MOa If of th. girl. 1. ,h. rW Huadrod Tartr a.hr.1 .IcJtoltto.. "tf. ".V"! tL Wl.U . g.rlie, ho dr ..,t, ,u a short d.ocin, grap dlnertolr JmI ch . gowa Is tb f tb. direct, .tyloa. go .fZ. M lU "f i2-fw frock B.ffr at Tbe ten, and U.t l. cloiy wr. 1. HlartrstiM . To uy m tM of -r tall -America. BarJ- ar Bofh lie t hr.t r", U,ta" tjl ".t U IttlLg a.d imagine it wl , , yl! a,n, - tb .p .U fert high s-4 tw. feet Ct-ver, Sat SuraTto. B Xt llZ lTd.. " t? J-T. srm.. Wby Bei.r. Jt the r t,r bht tb. abroed foe Mia. Alexandra C.rU.1.. w.. a tb tr. J.st Dlctur. .o. ef tkeb 77- ilZl wet. alniple daBe- I.croTahl. war tb worn - . a. . m . - - v.- wa VuaiCTI vMtsw-w . M IW aana BaVtw1 lAltariSn. H CVIlfaw 1 . .. W avaiaaMw ar-- who wor suits Uk tboo of tb aowior. Ammm la 4ra ara asear aeea la nam L aad . , . ..now hld aad -tea thero'.r; btac. r'. m-l.m mm. .. I. 4 II.. CBt Bad Oktrt. , w " " a . , lji.. .mm atttiss aiiln m w. - w astUt ory to tbo ovaalag . ar known to bo kept IB tbe form of personal ornamente. From time imme morial India baa beed a reaervolr Into which tbe precloua metala have flowed from hit quarter of the globe, only te disappear from statistics. Could th Ml wealth b drawn npon. tb effect on the Industrial and commercial life of the country would' b very great It Is, therefor, a matter of concern to try to tura India's dormant capital to active as. It may b Impossible to de It Tb Oriental mind view everything la a way tn comprehensible to Westerners. But if only a tlta at th concealed hoard of India wero vitalised a-aew aspect might b give, to th eoadltlons of life la Eng. land's great Eastera Fravira, BaJtimor a. moat beal chlagprltcea.eg,., for ..mg p!,yH , -r. Moll.-r.- Mis Cartott ali-r4 feet earg1ag fraa a tn gowa, ., Ur big pink rose throaga whlca tbat I sa. it i. . .; u,a,rd ir sill also wear a yellow sua gowa they ar short wa ld (U. frocks, raa Wrs-kaoti a4 ribbons of baby bio. eat oaClettes with s irer gsshlag bar this sort Tbsy art eraroly litis wtta ta i ad kave a long atoo trU v trala Oa etbara ther ar Ima parpl aad It wra ae. a Ig will kna tber. as fran cr. ft tkm, t'ltla m.. .v.i u .i .. af talla. aa CoraetlB TsaderVli. Jr- who wears each baler haags a leng fr-Eg. tf par rrysUls. tb. walat. Wks Cartlaso'a eoetasa wa rather. a stssstBg iiMtl era s eat I th. sock 't kf oi'-g I s s prcesat p that copied r a adty girt. Vat V wear r1t W sr. an tarrTbry xcitd orvr oaff th am asd rUtag la potau of ar . It Is a baa, tao 4s Mr. Aifra U ff war,. wke. a It a gtrd'e of eaaaoa etespiag tb body oveaiag gwwaa far Raarmarst.i apora b by th gay flawora. tl rt IU foal ba bev oars a4 la fcac -' ir aert t. kt grot V4w b bast fsCiag ta hsog Owas to gu mm Me wsvy hair, aC wlsraila-aaspad ktg dasee. it est .rj attk iU lary- sa4 arwasseat s4fUg ta saagta. Uk psgtas; she laeted Uks a saaw tsaaa W kra st twre ber bwMFf T.sdea t tbat abt. u tb caa ail taoo Aa4 Uka th ml y.i.asama hUU tb tviroetolrt parVsd thai foOowwg tax arts Bahmeat aai flfu avasraa aa aariy aa saieV ptak rose clrcUag th nar of hml opara la cat M sbocklag low that tb abwasdar An Did Story. th talla, m that tbelr la a plate! lov. What doe that , babbyy "Means that w'U bav ta dig ap for a weddiag preaeat la abswt twe ss oaths. . Loabrvtil Coorler-JomnsL - A Subtle Hint "Jtaaail. year fse Is dirty agala tbla lag." evelatatod tb teacber. TTkat Wevaw fc boat fsClM la bsog a to gla a Kara, bar t. 4 wa eball rsah ArUadal roaea win .gala v a4 t Me tkr " . ' . JT 17.1, tb k-a. -nth Ul b wears tot tew ta gtv kiss s.paort -Prlecroa erst ball aowaa bat whl) t think ad saotb black battsrfy mesfrlsr a fan yard d tvm ey a I cam r acba-i overy brocoletSL AUs," Mr, yirholaa Xag-worta, wa bay ft, b ar to wvr wtij grape la ywax' frwai tba tip af wlg ta th . ay U a dlrtyr -B.h. graata4 Tb earn war war ta rraae darts tag Urettro oveaiag gawws at aa asttab- bale. Mrs. Kdataad U BayUoo baa largo la bark wa oeoeof tba gawM tb swraaga Jiaml nay aay v. r. v. a en. tm alia mm tTflk avairaa aa aarla aa salA. 'saak mat lt,. n.n. . mm rnmrm la rat aa Bhackiacr low that tb aboasdar tblag, Tb CVcia, "I