The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972, October 11, 1908, Page 41, Image 41

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    epjtt 10 kj Aaurlre tussiae. Croat Brnata RlgHt Bssarve
MmiM
mm -if
YV) tyiffot) M$ed it) Startlip Uays.
' 1d jes ii) 5arlapcf5 Used : to 055
SIit5 .9 $irt& a ueed Ipto -
iiriii 1 i4i I nMiii 1 1 f 1 f i vi?
Shoulder Butterflies of Tutte.
Dressmakers Disagree.
Jop for flyy pi($ure.
pour Jtyls from
lf)e) to Qlpoose.
Dire;toire (Jouyps
Draped uitl?
WHE doctor dlsagrea. for tb
patent! When drewmakere dis
agaea, hurrah for th cuatomer!
Thus Mr w all of u who have any de
gree of clvross, for wba th dress
maker disagree there la bop for any
flffur.
And both big autberltle and little -tborltles
dlsgre tbla eon. Paqula baa
declared blmslt la opposition to tha close
ly lining dlrectotre model and upholds tb
graceful empire style.
Eva Elisabeth Whit (and no on cam
call her a little authority la either mean
la of tb word) says tbat disagreement
slats.- '. Sb gives na permission, wa poor
worms of the four Hundred, whom aha
Imagine are fairly writhing to onr aheatb
gowna, .to take advantage of tbe disagree
ment and wear wbal we choose. Now
ab la on tb lectur platform apreadlng
tbe glad tidings ,D niany title. Bbe glrea
a 3 Tire authoritatively and buoyantly to all
tbe timid littl dressmakers bora with plat
in tbelr moutba Inatead of allrer spoon.
Tbe poor lady ' who weigh ao much tbat
ber heart I heavy, too, la now feellog
more cheerful. In an dmplr gowa, ao
tbe Imagine, no on may know tbe true
girth of ber waist' but somehow every on
doee know when a woman wear an empire
model Juit bow much welat there la below
Mr. Willie K. Vanderbllt Sr., always
bends over In a manner molt graceful
when fhe enter 1 ber box at tb opera.
Her gown may be of a rather loose empire
style, but somehow the entrancing line
below are seen, even by people without tbe
eye that baa an X-ray keenness. But
every time lovely Mrs. Willie And an ex
cuse for tbat. graceful atoop, adorable crea
tive though she la, Cholly eternally keep
hi opera glasses focusied on young Mr.
111
mm
'
(Jrape-lipes Uorr) ip tl?e jiair.
Uild
Aagnatl W ar an eraey about tha new .cloak vry year, and thy art alao nad blade of tha angular woman wtn b wing
tulle gown, aqd ar all baring the moat a a trimming on bar gown. Tbey are ik la ffect. FIh-colord tail ovtllnaa
eztrem model mad on tb aiy. Tboa annggled Into th whir tull wing that tb eoraag tad tha reeult at flrat gUae
who ar brav wall a banteou wUl atand out en each of hr ibouldra (b fairly tke one' breath away, (or tha
eaaay tbm first Certabily "tb mpre lt blgber than toy vtber woman at tb gowa appears to ha cut oat twlc as mvokj
Joephlne,M who Is Mrs. W. A. C. Tsylor, opera). Whan a Mttn aklrt la Ut' or a It actually la. Thea I mna sot forgH
will adhr to tha Emplr atyle. awaaeu iu n piacn. iu 10 ien you mat tier aruhathnJah
r xun wui am uwhs or w uroiaene. hoot Egyptian and Brsanf
la Pari both th Americana and th of lac or
Tarlslana bav already wora th gown of
tull. At an evening girden party, for
example, la floated a faclaatlng creature
la a coatdm of diver moonlight eatln,
over which pal gray tull waa draped
and kaotted, swathing th butt and both
bin and knee very tightly. - Ther war
knot on tb (boulder, on th hip and oa
on ank'e, the aklrt being raised so that a
silver slipper showed. At th other aid
th gown ended In a long trail of tull,
and on arm wa draped with th tull
while tn other wa bate. Diamonds,
cameo and pearls ar used to catch the
draper!. The tulle la really "tacked" to
th aatln by tb yarc), la aeldom sewed to
gether, and never hemmed. ,
No wonder we ar all so excited tn re
gard to th gown on; tb first opera night
Of eourae. at tb first aammerit'eln night.
tb Dlrectolr gown will 1 mild experi
ment. When w ppear at in otnr
houM, th Metropolitan, where the dia
mond .horseshoe circle, campoasd of tb
parterr box, make a how unurpaaed.
A Direcloire Evening Gowa with Whit Chiffon UnderJrea Having Sflver Spangles,
and a Plastron Heavily Embroidered With Old Blue and Green Brightened with Sil
ver. Over the Chiffon There Ar Draperies of Black Mousseline de Soie or Tulle.
B A Girlish Evening Frock with Skirt Having Three Lace Flounces and Garlanded with
Artificial Pink Rosea, Similar Flowers Forming th Cortag Bouquet
C An Evening Gown, Empire in Style, of Rote-Colored Satin Trimmed with Laurel
Leare and Grecian Key in Gold, a Long Gold Chain Circling Vail and Falling
al Left Side. Row -Colored Mouaselin d Soie Drapes the Left Shoulder and Form
the Left Sleeve.
D A Direcloire Costume with Skirt of Whit Mouaaelin de Soie Heavily Embroidered
with Wide Tulle Draperiei of Egg-Pfcnt Color and Left Sleeve of Embroidered
mentn. T think trie f so ahrewd. for be- Tull from Which Hangs Taaael -of Rkh Red or Egg-Plant Color Carneb Ar Sot
tween the acts etiquette dictate, that on i8 Embroideries and in Ornament to Which Tassel. Are Attached
must turn one's bark to the opera glass nn MMcnefl.
battalion-just when they and tbe re- E A Satin Gown PJ. Pink m Color and Princesse-Empire in Model Cameo-Girdl.
rij;; tti surz z::0 - c- 9 a s.
linve a crown exactl.r like tbat of Mrs.
John It. Preiel: the pearls can be un
screwed and skj blue Terslan turquoise Pn "I,n Fredericks, th ietres. Tery few days of the Perolntlon, end also later due
Ir.serted I just went to bed and cried "f h"r will he dlrectolre In style. In the Consulate and the Emplr period
and cried, mid stayed there two weeks "e will be of mignonette-green tln with fter Nsp leon, who waa of th Consular.!
iur .... iu lum uiu bh 11 wrrmiri tnai Has a long sua una arisen in all his glory and power
prniMtm hjc(uf ; we lire mil mo
fully feminine In onr family)
bought me a S'-renaUIe tlsia
. a t . v f. anil . . t . a ,t l.
. , .. . ur ..... - n rcu rimr iqai iiri it neaa ""-u w i.u.ro-cuirers. who nave not prsc-
dlnners to glre for bn.kcrs from London shove an English foe. Chollr think Paul- Used thwlr art for fnll, t....
Hv cbsppie- who glre the Ameri- Ine l, lovelr. to..; but I'm not a bit Jealou Xon of tb younger men among th jewel
ran women sue!, g .! t,.s a!...ut the mar- onl, of that flirt, Tolly de Teyrter, who nderetand the work, w tbe graybearda
" .cir . uoiyu.ueui.. u comm g Home from Irela ud next week. She busy. For many yer ther wss Us-
But bow 1 ruu ..u: So. ha.-k to gowns! has been wearing abroad so I heard from u or no work for cameo cutter.
mnat te!l tOU that besides the empire a friend-a gorceoo Greek eawn of A.m. The dtreetolr rowna wtlL of : .
see the Uioatrst.na c snd resd description) color touched with gold. Really, tf CboUy th MaMtloa of th Moa. Tull ao. lho t . a t
"j - rm mm sToiei o ner a ii wa Ikls Snrlne wui swain id flrur and thero r., . I . . . ...tua
mplr and prin.-.e model combined, or re,,., t M,nr,. k- .k. ,. . '. will bo f an.. HI - D1"lr fM 1 b revealed. rle were arranged Uk thoM on a ttM
th starUUg directoire. -hlct, I. modified Bed procedure eo my oart. TanderhUt ha a stunnlnir detolnP .... " B"y -o arrang- Phldl. ow she wss on or IB mer-
or unmodified, a,.,, or .mmodest, so- rZZZ ZL e, In. ion Tull , .S.'irJ "", f .rf-tho srf w. ,nie-th. wonderful onewho fol-
t .''Z:'ir" r. " Ii : " atscnswa verl week are and la g- iLmnA th advloo of IK grwi srusa -
adopted tb are or - in
vou know n j rr , d. Mm Beftr th. Th. .... with fl.m olAsf a i- - .ryie. - Roman aaa rea. o-
and aever aaa y
- u K ,nf mum ""u unaeu 411 an nia glory and power
1 ao delight- fnnge. Another of "Iondon moke" tulle These cameoa. that will be used to .clasp
ntll Cholly is only slightly dlrectolre in lines. Pol- the bewildering tu.le gowns of th Dlrec-
uur nous .ue sweet fnoe will rise above tb "LondoB wire period tbla season, will aiv employ,
lie had some smoke" like a rod rose tbat lift It head nent to can.eo-cnttefs, who bare not nrc-
Egyptian and Brsantlo.
an 01 gorgsorj colors, bat used rather spasw
ngly. For InsUnc. If yon hav an rtv
Ing gowa cut out T-ahapod, th llttl mod
eety-plece at th bottom of th T should
b of gorgeous m broidery. Th other dy
I saw a prim roe satin -with barbarts am.
brolderlea of ma-dva gold and llvr also
an emerald grea tull vailed In chiffon
with a coat of sparkling Jet and a copper
colored chiffon laid over aatln and from th
bust all around hung a fringe of crystal
tbat fell to th ankle.
On can manage, however, on but Ifttl
money, to be dainty, oven dangerous, when
one goes to a balL Tber ar sweet llttl
frocks of eoar white not, trimmed only
with wld band of soutache braid apptl4
In graceful design.
And My, did you over hear of that won
derful gowa wora by Southern bell dar
ing tb wart Sb waa kwfully poor, ao
white tarleton waa her only "wear." She
wa going to a moonlight garden party
wfcero ther wa to bo a danc on tb
lawn, and ah longed to look lovely, se
what do you think ah did? Aided by hr
mammy, she went out and eangtit basket
fula of lightning bugs, or as aomo people
call them, flre-flle. Then Into the wld
uuDucwe, maue vi wane laneion oouniea, g
handful of fire-flies were sewed by thVl
chuckling mammy. That night when th
pretty girl danced on the. lawn, eb needed
no spangles, nor any diamonds, for th
flre-fll flashed through tb tarleton and
no 00 e received ao many glano, I read
all about It tn a book by my friend,
Amelia Rlvea, and she told me confidential,
ly that this gowa waa a fact, not fabrica
tion oa her part. If Cholly prove stingy, 1
I'll have to think of just such ways to fix
up my frocks.
But Just th mm ther will be no fire
flies on me I
Calla lllltes will be worn In th hair and
also as corsage bouquet. It was Miss
Edith Deacon who started this fad In New
Tork. Perhaps she knew of a historical
reason, but this I can not find. Every
where ahe goes, on sees her with tore
stiff calla miles, , with long, straight stems
standing: upright and thrust Into th cor
sag. If her tear should fall they would
drop right Into the. calla lily cup. Mrs.
Benjamin Guinness (she wa Bridget Bui
ley, of Ireland), also wears three stiff calla
lllltes as a corsage bouquet ylth her even
ing gown. She 1 one of Mrs. John Jacob
Astox's chums, so calla lilies are correct
entfo ma of largo loll blown roses, be
ginning with three at tbe top and Increas
ing In number aa tbe alash widens toward
th hem.
- Th grspe you must wear In your bslr
because tbey ar historically correct, but
be sure to ask every now and then "Is my
wreath on tralghtT" for the wild grspe
head dress, If It ' got a bit crooked, will
civ von a rakish look like that of a Bac
chant. The grapee are metallic, and In
Definition.
Many children are ao crammed with
everything tbat they really know noth
ing. . .
In proof of this, read these veritaMe
specimen of definition, written by pub
lic school children:
"Stability 1 tuklng car of a arable."
"A, mosquito la the child of black and
whit parents."
"Monastery Is tb plac for monster."
"Tocsin 1 something to do with get
ting drunk."
"Expostulation Is to bav tb small
pox." "Cannibal is two brothers who kill
each other in th Bible."
"Anatomy I th human body, which
consists of three parts; the hed. the
chlst and th mmtnlck. The head eon
tain th ye and bralna, If any. The
chlst coutalna the lunga and plec of tbe
liver. The stummlck Is devotd to tbe
bowels, of . which ther sre flv. a, e, i, o.
u, and omtlme w and y.
-Newebook.
India Precious Metals.
f ! estimated that gl. MOO. 000, 000
In gold, and prhaps as much In llvr,
i. hidden wav In tb Ulndu stocking.
shades of pal gold, red bronxe and purple vast quantities of the precious metals
mingled. In tb merry mad daya of
Franco.' when they wore th tyle w ar
now adopting, .a ltr of Bonpart ao
nearad at a ball with her hair bound with
Barrow trtp of tiger kln, whlla hug
buncbe of gold grape stood ost .oa ch
' side of her hed. Sb wor a girdle of
gold set with rameo. Madam Tallica, a
' lively lady of the long- ago yoa remember
tb Tallica toque I referred to rent!y)
toward th ,nr wor a gowa who dlphao drap-
rordlnc to vtfur rcorak tzi Tour firar. t. w.n ii,. i .i ., robln'a vin ...a w . -
Vo bav. four .trie, from walrh to ehooee. ho-rrer drapl far more elo-ty aroeM Grecla. gowa of blart tla limit JZlftl m9Ch k
U'h r Ton tnm i-t '-, a wi . . t,i. i m . . - . mrwcxoir style. - Bnnins aai
" ' m-t mw mmmjvm. i mm VBPuw-pnae SBOoels. " w suigmi urmpsn Bring rroB 9mm ska -. .
ttrawBfae. with sV, rhr.:i. mnt i ... . ... - ,v. .v,jt. . " the aetrataatet who most V do- .t war saedals
' ' J s -w-mm m DUBV fml IM gs s rTTf M SMsk siwj SHiVUiuri SB. 1 1 Will rtmrnt iTn I - . w. .
ly sh,IPu,g-I y.u, hearts! All of . lmtT9m MOa If of th. girl. 1. ,h. rW Huadrod Tartr a.hr.1 .IcJtoltto.. "tf. ".V"! tL Wl.U
. g.rlie, ho dr ..,t, ,u a short d.ocin, grap dlnertolr JmI ch . gowa Is tb f tb. direct, .tyloa. go .fZ. M lU "f i2-fw
frock B.ffr at Tbe ten, and U.t l. cloiy wr. 1. HlartrstiM . To uy m tM of -r tall -America. BarJ- ar Bofh lie t hr.t r", U,ta" tjl ".t U
IttlLg a.d imagine it wl , , yl! a,n, - tb .p .U fert high s-4 tw. feet Ct-ver, Sat SuraTto. B Xt llZ lTd.. " t? J-T. srm..
Wby Bei.r. Jt the r t,r bht tb. abroed foe Mia. Alexandra C.rU.1.. w.. a tb tr. J.st Dlctur. .o. ef tkeb 77- ilZl wet. alniple daBe- I.croTahl. war tb worn
- . a. . m . - - v.- wa VuaiCTI vMtsw-w . M IW aana BaVtw1 lAltariSn. H CVIlfaw 1
. .. W avaiaaMw ar--
who wor suits Uk tboo of tb aowior.
Ammm la 4ra ara asear aeea la
nam L aad . ,
. ..now hld aad -tea thero'.r; btac. r'.
m-l.m mm. .. I. 4 II.. CBt Bad Oktrt. ,
w " " a . , lji.. .mm atttiss
aiiln m w. - w
astUt ory to tbo ovaalag .
ar known to bo kept IB tbe form of
personal ornamente. From time imme
morial India baa beed a reaervolr Into
which tbe precloua metala have flowed
from hit quarter of the globe, only te
disappear from statistics. Could th Ml
wealth b drawn npon. tb effect on the
Industrial and commercial life of the
country would' b very great It Is,
therefor, a matter of concern to try to
tura India's dormant capital to active
as. It may b Impossible to de It Tb
Oriental mind view everything la a way
tn comprehensible to Westerners. But if
only a tlta at th concealed hoard of
India wero vitalised a-aew aspect might
b give, to th eoadltlons of life la Eng.
land's great Eastera Fravira, BaJtimor
a.
moat beal chlagprltcea.eg,., for ..mg p!,yH , -r. Moll.-r.- Mis Cartott ali-r4 feet earg1ag fraa a tn gowa, ., Ur big pink rose throaga whlca
tbat I sa. it i. . .; u,a,rd ir sill also wear a yellow sua gowa they ar short wa ld (U. frocks, raa Wrs-kaoti a4 ribbons of baby bio.
eat oaClettes with s irer gsshlag bar this sort Tbsy art eraroly litis wtta ta i ad kave a long atoo trU v trala Oa etbara ther ar Ima parpl aad
It wra ae. a Ig will
kna tber. as fran cr. ft tkm, t'ltla m.. .v.i u .i .. af talla. aa
CoraetlB TsaderVli. Jr- who wears each baler haags a leng fr-Eg. tf par rrysUls. tb. walat. Wks Cartlaso'a eoetasa wa rather.
a stssstBg iiMtl era s eat I th. sock 't kf oi'-g I s s prcesat p that copied r a adty girt. Vat V wear r1t W sr. an tarrTbry xcitd orvr oaff th am asd rUtag la potau
of ar . It Is a baa, tao 4s Mr. Aifra U ff war,. wke. a It a gtrd'e of eaaaoa etespiag tb body oveaiag gwwaa far Raarmarst.i apora b by th gay flawora.
tl rt IU foal ba bev oars a4 la fcac -' ir aert t. kt grot V4w b bast fsCiag ta hsog Owas to gu
mm Me wsvy hair, aC wlsraila-aaspad ktg dasee. it est .rj attk iU lary-
sa4 arwasseat s4fUg ta saagta. Uk psgtas; she laeted Uks a saaw tsaaa
W kra st twre ber bwMFf T.sdea t tbat abt.
u tb caa ail taoo Aa4 Uka th ml y.i.asama hUU tb tviroetolrt parVsd thai foOowwg tax arts Bahmeat aai flfu avasraa aa aariy aa saieV ptak rose clrcUag th nar of hml opara la cat M sbocklag low that tb abwasdar
An Did Story.
th talla, m that tbelr la a plate!
lov. What doe that , babbyy
"Means that w'U bav ta dig ap for a
weddiag preaeat la abswt twe ss oaths. .
Loabrvtil Coorler-JomnsL
- A Subtle Hint
"Jtaaail. year fse Is dirty agala tbla
lag." evelatatod tb teacber. TTkat
Wevaw fc boat fsClM la bsog a to gla a Kara, bar t. 4 wa eball rsah ArUadal roaea win .gala v a4 t Me tkr " . ' . JT 17.1,
tb k-a. -nth Ul b wears tot tew ta gtv kiss s.paort -Prlecroa erst ball aowaa bat whl) t think ad saotb black battsrfy mesfrlsr a fan yard d tvm ey a I cam r acba-i overy
brocoletSL AUs," Mr, yirholaa Xag-worta, wa bay ft, b ar to wvr wtij grape la ywax' frwai tba tip af wlg ta th . ay U a dlrtyr -B.h. graata4
Tb earn war war ta rraae darts tag Urettro oveaiag gawws at aa asttab- bale. Mrs. Kdataad U BayUoo baa largo la bark wa oeoeof tba gawM tb swraaga Jiaml nay aay
v. r. v. a en. tm alia mm tTflk avairaa aa aarla aa salA. 'saak mat lt,. n.n. . mm rnmrm la rat aa Bhackiacr low that tb aboasdar tblag, Tb CVcia,
"I