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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1908)
THE OREGON, SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY .HORNING.' SEPTEMBER 23, 1903 j a, ROM the feminine viewpoint there 1 perhaps no more Interesting I lime of the year then the eu- tumn, when the very first glimpses of the faehtone to come appear on the borlson. Spring clothes, while charming, are not quite ao important, becauee they are of less costly materlale. but winter suits are, more axpenslve and. being made , of such, handsome stuffs, they are quite consldera tlon. Winter lshe time when dresses are made not of cotton, but of !Uc For the coming aeaaon It must be borne In mind that all the materlale, whether for street, dinner or house gowns, must be clinging. Satins, fine broadcloths, chif fon velveta-all "these will beorn. and all of them will make up, peftectly( In the present style. Stiffer febrlcs-taf-. f eta's, mohalra and such like-that do not fall eloeely tohe figure will be Ignored, for the dlrectolre or mervellleuse cannot be made up of materials other than soft and graceful A smart little house dress of crepe de chine in pale dull rose Is very simply made. The tight, clinging skirt, with the high waist line, the strapped bands, the vest effect end the long tight sleeves of lace finished at the hands with tucked or plain net therels not a point In th whole costume which Is "not new and fashionable. Everything about the dress . suggests grace. Such a model might bo made up not only In crepe de chine, but also In liberty satin, voile, cloth or cashmere. ""The street suit Is of black velvet soft chiffon velvet with a long coat trimmed with flat two-Inch bfffld of silk. The cuffs and collar are of vel- , vet. while the skirt, which Is pleated. Is not made with a Man wlt line. This Is called; a simple tallor.maJe suit end is showa by the smartest of Parisian makers. Cloth suits win also be decorated with wide braid combination with narrow soutache. The hat Is of black velvet, trimmed, with many aigrette. ",,'. The" model in prune-colored broad" cloth ! ' made In the dlrectolre style, with a- vest of chamois-colored satin. The skirt Is tight nttlng. with the high waist line. Win such a suit one wears a waist of white net, or else of net dyed to match.; It la with Just such aults that the net waists are made to wear, for with them any , heavier waist would be unbecoming and bulky. j The cheviot suit, In the new shade of green. s finished with a black satin shawl collar and cuffs. This la e an extremely newrnodel, and shows , a simple, clinging skirt The hat Is also new. a large black velvet affair, ' trimmed with a scarf of green oorded auk. ' r,,r,. , Al! of these costumes' would be par 1 tlcularly effective made up for a deb utante or a bride. These two young women naturally hold , a place . of honor In any household, ' and : their costumes are a matter of much more) consideration and interest than are the gowns of .the other members of the family. It is,, therefore, a com fort to know already what will be worn durlng'the coming season ' . L, 1. perhaps no more lnter.st.ng . .. L' f- V lr7 S . 'of V S&A ; fl 111 1, If li II W.-r I 11 1 1 l Y A S . To Line the New Gown THE fashions of the season must not be passed over without some men ' tlon of the linings used In the gowns. .Taffeta has held Its place alone as a lining silk, but now for some , dresses It must give way to a softer material. j Satin evening wraps , are lined with , satin, the ideal lining material, for it clings to the figure and in no way inter- feres with the grace of the drers. ' - A house gown of satin or crepe do chine may be lined to perfection with' white habutal or China silk. Evening , gowns are frequently lined with a soft , f crepe de chine. As a rule, a gown built upon the lin ing and sewn to It has a far more Cling-s Jng effect than if made separately and worn over a lining slip. If a petticoat is worn under the gown It may be of crepe de chine or stockinet in white. SOFT, FLUFFY- NEC! . "if ft . 7. f: s r"w. wfyf "KAjr -i " mm EL D & J . t --3, Collar and jabot pt tall combined with Irish Uc.. Kodel by lion., Lace oowa like these take away ' the stiff UnevOf plain collar.. rhMM r iuaeel. embroidered - i in , a Such, aa embroidered eeiiar wui be found becoming to abort necks. Model by lion. m : CWEAR HAS THE FI m m II am TWW- 1 ,fhim Ir-teH til ? l.M WMyt 0tmB. &aic&v jgf l Lil J-1 1 A tulle Jabot, ticked. Kodel by KarabkU Armand. Embroidered ' collar jabot Kodel by Lion. and triple Jabot (cf bordered set. Xodelby Lioa. Tnllt and la co is a favorite blnation, and a becoming n WITII the new suits of the sea eon stiff linen collars would be moat -Inappropriate. So Paris has apparently turned from vea a semblance of tailored neckwear, and for fall the softaet. fluffiest and roost feminine of frills are offered. , - This Chang was foreshadowed by the tmmensw ruches which were worn dur ing; May and June and whfrh were feur.d 4 fceromlna; thst lh Aanm of- the stiff roller was Frenonc4. Among the pot ier rtw vllr era th tt - IftvSj ice of the baby variety- end they are. Indeed, very becoming and appropriate ly worn with any eult. Tha Irish lace has been glrtn a place occupied by none of Its relatione, and Is regarded aa being strictly com me II faut, even when worn with the plainest ef tailored costumes, its most of the waists win bo of net called la Parts ttle-the tie moat, of coarse, be of the esse material. What would look more ridiculous than aa airy waist wr with a n!W ef l!niT Th bur taii Jabot la siwre popular than ewr. and. as toa its vise wers . not enough. It it made mora uay wliM additions f lace and f rin ire. Irish lace is trisomed with valenclennee or with ruffles of net or chiffon. Hand em broidered tMngs are as popular aa ever. The locg'doubie ruffle on the frost ot the waist has been supplanted by the Jabot, which IS at present "a la taOde. THie Jabot ipneararee about throe-quarters the wn-th from neck to waist, and stasis out Ilka aa Immense peff anoer the chla. A vvy attrsrtrf modft ' made ay lm. Is en n Seolderad collar. M a triple jaboc This la very eosrentioaal , In shape and could be worn even wlta the plainest of tailored suits. Two dainty lace bowe are simply and easily made, and they have taken the place of the stiff bows of ribbon former- ly worn with Hnen collars. Of coarse, ta sartng thst fluffy neck wear has the field. It most not be un derstood that the woman to whom "the ' strict! r tailored style ta mart becoming should bo denied the hnen collar. A charming eoeabtaattn Is tM collar and jab f net. trionm-d wltJ- lnn lace. guch'eoUars arm aadoabtediy stsy la fashion during the whole of the year, and they will make a change in the stylo of the waist to be worn with them. The detachable collar Is a material aid to the amateur dresxmaker. It will bo Intrestjner to note I be evolution of the old-faehtoned shirtwaist to fit the style of the Bew-fasbioned collar. New Gloves for Winter I El "e worama- snn nnci uont. atra sJ-ero I gloves are no longer a part ot thtrkneaa on tha the wardrobe. Ia fact, the lat est and newest glovee are eo short that she who hss beoa ewathtng her arm a In yards of kd will aim oat feel a sense- of imraodeoty. Tee. they are very short, so short that it takes but one batten to fastea them on the wrist, and avoa that one batten mast cling precariously to the very edge of the glove, while the tattonhole ta made almost tn space! For ta must heve x rit to detract from Its- extreme tranpareocy. Tae chiffon.-'or twite, reaches quite t f e hand with a raffle below, e long i - it. Jast the tlpa of the ftngere ar :bla.. , : At the miment It mm a ih n.ii moat Of tho nioualtalr i.Vevat ? to bo 'of white or cre.m cl. rl r--t or chiffon, t In this r. !.: moot be worn. 'i , r lotieer rrM ( r , . - eaemne; ! t torn t- v - ' wrack tSy ; ';" I '
