THE OREGON, SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY .HORNING.' SEPTEMBER 23, 1903
j a, ROM the feminine viewpoint there
1 perhaps no more Interesting
I lime of the year then the eu-
tumn, when the very first
glimpses of the faehtone to come appear
on the borlson. Spring clothes, while
charming, are not quite ao important,
becauee they are of less costly materlale.
but winter suits are, more axpenslve
and. being made , of such, handsome
stuffs, they are quite consldera
tlon. Winter lshe time when dresses
are made not of cotton, but of !Uc For
the coming aeaaon It must be borne In
mind that all the materlale, whether for
street, dinner or house gowns, must be
clinging. Satins, fine broadcloths, chif
fon velveta-all "these will beorn. and
all of them will make up, peftectly( In
the present style. Stiffer febrlcs-taf-.
f eta's, mohalra and such like-that do not
fall eloeely tohe figure will be Ignored,
for the dlrectolre or mervellleuse cannot
be made up of materials other than soft
and graceful
A smart little house dress of crepe de
chine in pale dull rose Is very simply
made. The tight, clinging skirt, with
the high waist line, the strapped bands,
the vest effect end the long tight sleeves
of lace finished at the hands with tucked
or plain net therels not a point In th
whole costume which Is "not new and
fashionable. Everything about the dress .
suggests grace. Such a model might bo
made up not only In crepe de chine,
but also In liberty satin, voile, cloth or
cashmere.
""The street suit Is of black velvet
soft chiffon velvet with a long coat
trimmed with flat two-Inch bfffld of
silk. The cuffs and collar are of vel- ,
vet. while the skirt, which Is pleated.
Is not made with a Man wlt line.
This Is called; a simple tallor.maJe
suit end is showa by the smartest
of Parisian makers. Cloth suits win
also be decorated with wide braid
combination with narrow soutache.
The hat Is of black velvet, trimmed,
with many aigrette. ",,'.
The" model in prune-colored broad"
cloth ! ' made In the dlrectolre style,
with a- vest of chamois-colored satin.
The skirt Is tight nttlng. with the
high waist line. Win such a suit one
wears a waist of white net, or else
of net dyed to match.; It la with Just
such aults that the net waists are
made to wear, for with them any ,
heavier waist would be unbecoming
and bulky. j
The cheviot suit, In the new shade
of green. s finished with a black
satin shawl collar and cuffs. This la
e
an extremely newrnodel, and shows ,
a simple, clinging skirt The hat Is
also new. a large black velvet affair, '
trimmed with a scarf of green oorded
auk. ' r,,r,. ,
Al! of these costumes' would be par 1
tlcularly effective made up for a deb
utante or a bride. These two young
women naturally hold , a place . of
honor In any household, ' and : their
costumes are a matter of much more)
consideration and interest than are
the gowns of .the other members of
the family. It is,, therefore, a com
fort to know already what will be
worn durlng'the coming season ' .
L, 1. perhaps no more lnter.st.ng . .. L' f- V lr7 S . 'of V S&A
; fl 111 1, If li II W.-r I 11 1 1 l Y
A S .
To Line the New Gown
THE fashions of the season must not
be passed over without some men
' tlon of the linings used In the
gowns. .Taffeta has held Its place alone
as a lining silk, but now for some ,
dresses It must give way to a softer
material. j
Satin evening wraps , are lined with ,
satin, the ideal lining material, for it
clings to the figure and in no way inter-
feres with the grace of the drers. ' -
A house gown of satin or crepe do
chine may be lined to perfection with'
white habutal or China silk. Evening
, gowns are frequently lined with a soft ,
f crepe de chine.
As a rule, a gown built upon the lin
ing and sewn to It has a far more Cling-s
Jng effect than if made separately and
worn over a lining slip. If a petticoat
is worn under the gown It may be of
crepe de chine or stockinet in white.
SOFT, FLUFFY- NEC!
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7.
f: s r"w. wfyf
"KAjr -i
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mm
EL D
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Collar and jabot pt tall combined
with Irish Uc.. Kodel by lion.,
Lace oowa like these take away
' the stiff UnevOf plain collar..
rhMM r iuaeel.
embroidered
- i in , a
Such, aa embroidered eeiiar wui
be found becoming to abort necks.
Model by lion.
m :
CWEAR HAS THE FI
m m II am TWW-
1 ,fhim Ir-teH til ? l.M
WMyt 0tmB. &aic&v
jgf l Lil J-1 1
A tulle Jabot, ticked.
Kodel by KarabkU Armand.
Embroidered ' collar
jabot Kodel by Lion.
and triple
Jabot (cf bordered set.
Xodelby Lioa.
Tnllt and la co is a favorite
blnation, and a becoming n
WITII the new suits of the sea
eon stiff linen collars would be
moat -Inappropriate.
So Paris has apparently turned from
vea a semblance of tailored neckwear,
and for fall the softaet. fluffiest and
roost feminine of frills are offered. ,
- This Chang was foreshadowed by the
tmmensw ruches which were worn dur
ing; May and June and whfrh were feur.d
4 fceromlna; thst lh Aanm of- the stiff
roller was Frenonc4. Among the pot
ier rtw vllr era th tt - IftvSj
ice of the baby variety- end they are.
Indeed, very becoming and appropriate
ly worn with any eult. Tha Irish lace
has been glrtn a place occupied by none
of Its relatione, and Is regarded aa being
strictly com me II faut, even when worn
with the plainest ef tailored costumes,
its most of the waists win bo of net
called la Parts ttle-the tie moat, of
coarse, be of the esse material. What
would look more ridiculous than aa airy
waist wr with a n!W ef l!niT
Th bur taii Jabot la siwre popular
than ewr. and. as toa its vise wers .
not enough. It it made mora uay wliM
additions f lace and f rin ire. Irish lace
is trisomed with valenclennee or with
ruffles of net or chiffon. Hand em
broidered tMngs are as popular aa ever.
The locg'doubie ruffle on the frost ot
the waist has been supplanted by the
Jabot, which IS at present "a la taOde.
THie Jabot ipneararee about throe-quarters
the wn-th from neck to waist, and
stasis out Ilka aa Immense peff anoer
the chla.
A vvy attrsrtrf modft ' made ay
lm. Is en n Seolderad collar. M a
triple jaboc This la very eosrentioaal
, In shape and could be worn even wlta
the plainest of tailored suits.
Two dainty lace bowe are simply and
easily made, and they have taken the
place of the stiff bows of ribbon former-
ly worn with Hnen collars.
Of coarse, ta sartng thst fluffy neck
wear has the field. It most not be un
derstood that the woman to whom "the
' strict! r tailored style ta mart becoming
should bo denied the hnen collar.
A charming eoeabtaattn Is tM collar
and jab f net. trionm-d wltJ- lnn
lace. guch'eoUars arm aadoabtediy
stsy la fashion during the whole of the
year, and they will make a change in the
stylo of the waist to be worn with them.
The detachable collar Is a material aid
to the amateur dresxmaker. It will bo
Intrestjner to note I be evolution of the
old-faehtoned shirtwaist to fit the style
of the Bew-fasbioned collar.
New Gloves for Winter
I El "e worama- snn nnci uont. atra sJ-ero
I gloves are no longer a part ot thtrkneaa on tha
the wardrobe. Ia fact, the lat
est and newest glovee are eo short
that she who hss beoa ewathtng her
arm a In yards of kd will aim oat feel
a sense- of imraodeoty. Tee. they are
very short, so short that it takes but
one batten to fastea them on the
wrist, and avoa that one batten mast
cling precariously to the very edge
of the glove, while the tattonhole ta
made almost tn space! For ta
must heve x
rit to detract
from Its- extreme tranpareocy. Tae
chiffon.-'or twite, reaches quite t f e
hand with a raffle below, e long i - it.
Jast the tlpa of the ftngere ar
:bla.. , :
At the miment It mm a ih n.ii
moat Of tho nioualtalr i.Vevat ?
to bo 'of white or cre.m cl. rl r--t
or chiffon, t In this r. !.:
moot be worn. 'i , r
lotieer rrM ( r , . -
eaemne; ! t
torn t- v - '
wrack tSy ; ';" I '