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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1908)
17 IK OREGO niK ORECO.Y -SUNDAY JOURNAL, FORIXAND, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPivMBER 20, J903 i mncn. , , i Newlime J J M v i III VVU x i 1 1 ' i i ii II- m . l ; . I B V r .11 ' I . V a - WITH th autumn months cornea i the opening t th formal ' winter eeason, whn evnlng Inmw ul thater gOWaS . play a most important pert In tha wardrobe not only of the debutante, but aiao of the matron. Of court, we mutt expeot to And tbe Influence of the iuch-talked-of and widely heralded Sheath" (own la these new models , from perls, and we find It not only In line and fit. but alao In tha aupple . teriala of which all the gowns are made. The first model, for an older matron, ' is In pale green aatln trimmed with r bands of c renin -colored lace. The llaea of this gown, while graceful, are adapt ed to a figure not too slim, and the long atralght folds of the aklrt lend height to the wearer. A gown built upon auch a tncdet would be charming, and the lace might be aa handsome aa the owner may afford. It will give dignity to the v costume. ' . Of course, the debutante muat Indulge; ' In much simpler styles, and a charming t ; gown Xr a younger girl la trimmed with soft valendennea lace. Th ma terlal ! white satinsilk or crepe de chine might be substituted. XJberty i aatln ienda 1 tee If ao weU to the atylea of the year that It la an excellent ae- lection. Heretofore aatln haa bean con .". sldered far "too old a materlar far a young girl, but, Juet now, It ! ao much : employed for almost every purpose that uaaga haa made It appropriate even for . the very young. ' The third gown la of aoft pale pink '. chiffon, made over aatln, and trimmed" ' with wide bands of baby Irish laca. This would be a beautiful dinner costume, and Irish lace la youthful, pretty and well wearing. . The evening coat ,. of peach-colored broadcloth trimmed with braid of the same color, made into a design on re vere and cuffs, la very graceful. Black aatln la ised to outline the artistic braiding and to give the general acheme of the wrap a distinctive note. A debutante would,' Indeed, be lucky who Is ao fortunate as to possess such . a charming wrap. The arrangement for the head la one which is having great vogue in Paris. I VII V1Jr; i i mi N-l I Tl II II 1 I I 1 Itt HI 11 Meaning of Dircctoire DlBECTOlItB, Incroyable,': 'mer velileua words that are on ' every tongue, yet they are fre quently used interchangeably with out regard to 'distinguishing charac teristics , - . ' ' . ' Directolre la - the ' comprehensive word. Including Incroyable (the dress of the man during the Directolre period) and the mervellleuse (the woman's dreaa of the asm epoch). : , ( . ; , The classla ,typa of costume which has ao revolutionised the clothes of tbe moment is a revival of the copies Of Greek draperies assumed at the close of the eighteenth century, when the, new government the Directolre (directory) supplanted -the old French monarohy. ' At that period Greek and Roman philosophy appealed to cultivated minds, and classic costumes, as ex- pressed in the lines of Greek sculp ture, demanded a share of oonsidera , tlon. The women of the young re ' public appeared attired, In costumes ,on Grecian lines, and the style at once simple and artistlo prevailed. Bo 'the original directolre was born ' of the Greek and adapted to the re quirements of the "present day" of ..the closing of the eighteenth cen : tury; and the directolre of the mo " roent Is the revival of that of a hun ' dred years ago, with Just sufficient ' amendment to suit it to our "present .; day" needs. . The characterising features of tho ' directolre style are; Skirts scant anu clinging and en train, with a high waistband, sleeves small, close-fitting; and long; collars high; pockets large: re vers exaggerated; burtons , numer ous. One, all or any number of these characteristics may be discovered in one garment The Introduction of the directolre has caused a radical change in cos tume building. The effect must be of swathing, ot a seamless robe, no mat ter how much seaming, darting and goring may be employed in the con struction of the foundation. Distinguishing characteristics of the Incroyable are the coats long of tail and cut off squarely and abruptly above the waist line in front, with long sleeves, massively cuffed, with huge revere and pocket flaps all much be-buttoned. Mervellleuse stands for the scant, clinging, swathing style. The empire style Is an evolution of the directolre. even as the Directolre period merged Into the Empire. The chief difference between the two styles lies in the greater fulness of the empire. . if a v '. a ' M T - v t. v Kk 10 . ' i a Winter Fashions H air Dressing by K w. .k V;,; A good, arrangement to wear under the laxft Cat bats. r'WiLaapsjsjs If Iwtzr- ;A ff '.ypf''mririi llfp v-nVr.xvv-ix - rf - h A very aimpl coiffure for mornlsr, ahowln4T the part oa tie aids and tha txa 1 U baadeaa. Jjaoomiag'. A Greek tyl, The. hair la aoftlx wave and drtaacd.lov tk a Wfa braid around the torludne of the. knot A cfamer. of cat U and a ribbon to hold in place T UZ rrench . eetffeare dcre. wlth- tt the alight bealtanor. (hat cie taost dress the hair with r-rt cm the aid, and a Greek r t, rr "t f braid and curia tm tbe , Ttiis ! Id baa aa t . r , it rr take away th tBr4r. h U th enrt temlns ejU rr -- Jt fr. . tit w 4.f.t - r-u'Mir Cwia kit. h j, f f-m ri Bnr ! MCOn.insj. Al t K&tw 2ra-aa4, ef a Rue Marbocof. is cue ef the most im portant men In Farts. H la known among "lea etegantes" for saveral rea eons: li la asajsted ia baainea by rds prntT wife; h haa taka fire Brat priaea la Uv coliege rf bar dreaalag; be waa iwiMM "a medal hf the c!ty cf Paris. end but rr he I th COif- Iw ctf Mrs. TanarbUt. . Ca;i.r at tn a, e hara H rrnlff , "So. mnlS4ur tli Bt b are Uday. ltra. Va&derbt Is at Cha-o- tilly, and has aeat for him to arrange her hair"; or. "Monsieur Is In London at the request of Mrs- Vanderbllt, who ha just Uaded " Tet, in spite of th fact that he r continually called a war ta atUnd ta th manj wiahcs of th American, b baa resisted ail entraatie , te go te America. He prefer b little ap n a "et IMf! street tf Psrts to all tbe, aUtterina rrrrt an Ira inne estabUshmeot la a fnrrlta land. Osa learaa mi or JsUrtjrtijif facta due Ing a visit to this remarkable man hia conversations are quite worth listening to. For Instance: "Monsieur, I And my bair Is falling oat what shall I dor "But, yea," ha answers, cbaerf ally, "why should It not? It la the spring. 1 Howe ahed their hair ttt sprint:. cs hd theirs, and cathv ehouM yoa npxt to b an cscepUoa to all the an'maltr Then axala, abauld s fcat a v taa4 of heavy hair, yoa will undoubtedly bear from Monsieur Ferdinand how much more beautiful It will b tf torn will have It cut. and mad lata braid and curls that may b easily planed ao. "Just twlee as easy ta arrange as the false bair." ears he. Tea raa put . it wher row want to t n ant space hr or lb, re )at wberrrev the fac . ei ft- And four msfpei war tt a Ml stay la twice th tiia " -Aa ntfx l a Baasrfk rtardg Ca3 fashions ft coiffure. Monsieur Verdi band has said; lt t a litu earlir yet ta aay. but If woman dreaa the hair t go with the di rectolre style it will either be aa the crown ef the bead, te grre th Greek af fect, a? lower dewa la the back, wttB rtir'a Th r-rM and th earls era what Mrn aieur yardinand is eeing t axinra his "p atlta." Of rre. t t art Mfta t fult fares af fiJIcrent ehaea He creates a atyla with adaptation for the same woman to wear wita or wita--out a hat; and aomeUmea, for evening wear, he take a long shell bodkin, t breads it with ribbon and rune It In and at. renins' and round, with moat mar velous eltert. The en point wpow which th coiffeur ef f aris aeem to aarea la the part on th naht Tlls methnd cf hate rai- in Uowa thetn to puff out th rolfTur more the left am, where the Urge kau mast, ef ntccsaiur. b filied ia. -
