17 IK OREGO
niK ORECO.Y -SUNDAY JOURNAL, FORIXAND, SUNDAY MORNING, SEPivMBER 20, J903
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Newlime
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WITH th autumn months cornea
i the opening t th formal
' winter eeason, whn evnlng
Inmw ul thater gOWaS
. play a most important pert In tha
wardrobe not only of the debutante,
but aiao of the matron. Of court, we
mutt expeot to And tbe Influence of the
iuch-talked-of and widely heralded
Sheath" (own la these new models
, from perls, and we find It not only In
line and fit. but alao In tha aupple
. teriala of which all the gowns are made.
The first model, for an older matron,
' is In pale green aatln trimmed with
r bands of c renin -colored lace. The llaea
of this gown, while graceful, are adapt
ed to a figure not too slim, and the long
atralght folds of the aklrt lend height to
the wearer. A gown built upon auch a
tncdet would be charming, and the lace
might be aa handsome aa the owner
may afford. It will give dignity to the
v costume. '
. Of course, the debutante muat Indulge;
' In much simpler styles, and a charming t
; gown Xr a younger girl la trimmed
with soft valendennea lace. Th ma
terlal ! white satinsilk or crepe de
chine might be substituted. XJberty
i aatln ienda 1 tee If ao weU to the atylea
of the year that It la an excellent ae-
lection. Heretofore aatln haa bean con
.". sldered far "too old a materlar far a
young girl, but, Juet now, It ! ao much :
employed for almost every purpose that
uaaga haa made It appropriate even for
. the very young.
' The third gown la of aoft pale pink
'. chiffon, made over aatln, and trimmed"
' with wide bands of baby Irish laca. This
would be a beautiful dinner costume,
and Irish lace la youthful, pretty and
well wearing. .
The evening coat ,. of peach-colored
broadcloth trimmed with braid of the
same color, made into a design on re
vere and cuffs, la very graceful. Black
aatln la ised to outline the artistic
braiding and to give the general acheme
of the wrap a distinctive note.
A debutante would,' Indeed, be lucky
who Is ao fortunate as to possess such .
a charming wrap.
The arrangement for the head la one
which is having great vogue in Paris.
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Meaning of Dircctoire
DlBECTOlItB, Incroyable,': 'mer
velileua words that are on
' every tongue, yet they are fre
quently used interchangeably with
out regard to 'distinguishing charac
teristics , - . ' ' . '
Directolre la - the ' comprehensive
word. Including Incroyable (the dress of
the man during the Directolre period)
and the mervellleuse (the woman's dreaa
of the asm epoch). : , ( . ; ,
The classla ,typa of costume which
has ao revolutionised the clothes of
tbe moment is a revival of the copies
Of Greek draperies assumed at the
close of the eighteenth century, when
the, new government the Directolre
(directory) supplanted -the old
French monarohy. '
At that period Greek and Roman
philosophy appealed to cultivated
minds, and classic costumes, as ex-
pressed in the lines of Greek sculp
ture, demanded a share of oonsidera
, tlon. The women of the young re
' public appeared attired, In costumes
,on Grecian lines, and the style at
once simple and artistlo prevailed.
Bo 'the original directolre was born
' of the Greek and adapted to the re
quirements of the "present day" of
..the closing of the eighteenth cen
: tury; and the directolre of the mo
" roent Is the revival of that of a hun
' dred years ago, with Just sufficient
' amendment to suit it to our "present
.; day" needs. .
The characterising features of tho
' directolre style are; Skirts scant anu
clinging and en train, with a high
waistband, sleeves small, close-fitting;
and long; collars high; pockets large:
re vers exaggerated; burtons , numer
ous. One, all or any number of these
characteristics may be discovered in
one garment
The Introduction of the directolre
has caused a radical change in cos
tume building. The effect must be of
swathing, ot a seamless robe, no mat
ter how much seaming, darting and
goring may be employed in the con
struction of the foundation.
Distinguishing characteristics of the
Incroyable are the coats long of tail
and cut off squarely and abruptly
above the waist line in front, with
long sleeves, massively cuffed, with
huge revere and pocket flaps all
much be-buttoned.
Mervellleuse stands for the scant,
clinging, swathing style.
The empire style Is an evolution of
the directolre. even as the Directolre
period merged Into the Empire. The
chief difference between the two
styles lies in the greater fulness of the
empire. .
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Winter Fashions
H
air Dressing by
K w. .k
V;,;
A good, arrangement to wear under
the laxft Cat bats.
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A very aimpl
coiffure for
mornlsr, ahowln4T the
part oa tie aids and tha txa
1 U baadeaa.
Jjaoomiag'.
A Greek tyl, The. hair la aoftlx wave and drtaacd.lov
tk a Wfa braid around the torludne of the. knot
A cfamer. of cat U and a ribbon to hold in place
T
UZ rrench . eetffeare dcre. wlth-
tt the alight bealtanor. (hat
cie taost dress the hair with
r-rt cm the aid, and a Greek r
t, rr "t f braid and curia tm tbe
, Ttiis ! Id baa aa t .
r , it rr take away th tBr4r.
h U th enrt temlns ejU
rr -- Jt fr. . tit w
4.f.t - r-u'Mir Cwia kit. h
j, f f-m ri Bnr ! MCOn.insj.
Al t K&tw 2ra-aa4, ef a
Rue Marbocof. is cue ef the most im
portant men In Farts. H la known
among "lea etegantes" for saveral rea
eons: li la asajsted ia baainea by rds
prntT wife; h haa taka fire Brat priaea
la Uv coliege rf bar dreaalag; be waa
iwiMM "a medal hf the c!ty cf Paris.
end but rr he I th COif-
Iw ctf Mrs. TanarbUt.
. Ca;i.r at tn a, e hara H
rrnlff , "So. mnlS4ur tli Bt b
are Uday. ltra. Va&derbt Is at Cha-o-
tilly, and has aeat for him to arrange
her hair"; or. "Monsieur Is In London
at the request of Mrs- Vanderbllt, who
ha just Uaded " Tet, in spite of th
fact that he r continually called a war
ta atUnd ta th manj wiahcs of th
American, b baa resisted ail entraatie
, te go te America. He prefer b little
ap n a "et IMf! street tf Psrts to
all tbe, aUtterina rrrrt an Ira
inne estabUshmeot la a fnrrlta land.
Osa learaa mi or JsUrtjrtijif facta due
Ing a visit to this remarkable man hia
conversations are quite worth listening
to. For Instance:
"Monsieur, I And my bair Is falling
oat what shall I dor
"But, yea," ha answers, cbaerf ally,
"why should It not? It la the spring.
1 Howe ahed their hair ttt sprint:. cs
hd theirs, and cathv ehouM yoa
npxt to b an cscepUoa to all the
an'maltr
Then axala, abauld s fcat a v taa4
of heavy hair, yoa will undoubtedly
bear from Monsieur Ferdinand how
much more beautiful It will b tf torn
will have It cut. and mad lata braid
and curls that may b easily planed ao.
"Just twlee as easy ta arrange as the
false bair." ears he. Tea raa put .
it wher row want to t n ant space
hr or lb, re )at wberrrev the fac .
ei ft- And four msfpei war tt a Ml
stay la twice th tiia " -Aa
ntfx l a Baasrfk rtardg Ca3
fashions ft coiffure. Monsieur Verdi
band has said;
lt t a litu earlir yet ta aay. but If
woman dreaa the hair t go with the di
rectolre style it will either be aa the
crown ef the bead, te grre th Greek af
fect, a? lower dewa la the back, wttB
rtir'a
Th r-rM and th earls era what Mrn
aieur yardinand is eeing t axinra his
"p atlta." Of rre. t t art
Mfta t fult fares af fiJIcrent ehaea
He creates a atyla with adaptation for
the same woman to wear wita or wita--out
a hat; and aomeUmea, for evening
wear, he take a long shell bodkin,
t breads it with ribbon and rune It In and
at. renins' and round, with moat mar
velous eltert.
The en point wpow which th coiffeur
ef f aris aeem to aarea la the part on th
naht Tlls methnd cf hate rai-
in Uowa thetn to puff out th rolfTur
more the left am, where the Urge
kau mast, ef ntccsaiur. b filied ia.
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