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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Sept. 20, 1908)
i V TIIH OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, - PORTLAND, SUNDAY KORNING; SEPTEMBER 0, 1905 '. I .ft mm i7 A JUTOS So Declare English Great Chagrin Abroad . rTlHE American woman is blosioming in. to a new distinction. fShe is conced- . ' r ed the glory of being the best dress s edt woman 'in the world ' ; All the glory is hers. The measure' ' 1 attractiveness possessed by women of other- lands is to be attributed largely to their dress v.akers: The Ameritbn woman's is. all her own; her charm is in'jheway she wears her dress, no matter where she buys, it y . Her good jooXs, plus her &arm, plus her taste, enable her to reap loveliness unal loyed in the dressmaking establishments of such a rich field as Paris t where other women, with as much money and, perhaps, greater, influence, are able to achieve only mediocrity. She has not claimed the fame that is coming to her. Like the male American's candidacy for office, it is being thrust upon her. 1 , V - " Her rivals, who have been principally English, have quit all competition in despair, being moved thereto not by any aggrandize-' ment of honors on the partof the American divinity, but by the stinging criticisms of their own people and by the now haHnting sense of their own inferiority. Y 4 us t v If: ,8ha Averred that Mli Maxwell was well within thi facta, and added aoraa. After that, JEngllahworoen have been penitently taking . account of stock,, and confessing that they have not ao much on the reat of the world aa tbey fondlr Imagined. ' "The Englishwoman la overdraaaad," la what MUa .Maxwell said, after her four years of education In good taata In Naif, York city, "Many American and French women hare gone o far aa to declare the women of England are horn with, the faculty of taste totally rudiment!. That la unjust. "Englishwomen In tlmea - pait jflld know how to dress; but not now. "They uaed to laugh at the Americana, wearing- diamond earrings at breakfast. "I find the Englishwoman of today going shop ping at ,11 In tba morning In a allk or aatln gown, ' lace trimmed, which she trails over floors and drags after her while she climbs to the top of omnibuses, with her laces flying and her osprey plumes tumbling from her overtrimmed hat. "The neat, trim attire of the New York business woman is In soothing contrast with the sloppy over dressing of tba clerks and stenographers one sees nowadays on London's streets. "Time has gone by when the American woman can be honestly indloted for vulgar ostentation In dress; the time Is here whan tba accusation' can be properly leveled at Englishwomen., "The American woman now has "more regard for the proprieties than we." Tba countess of Meatb, whan she Indorsed the 1 V tA4 h f .J- ,3-1 1 ,..;.-s'S SI o&rrsorr Met & :i e9 PKIOR to the enormdus Industrial expansion and the notable enhancement of national self-esteem that were sequent upon the Spanish War, the average American was prone to take him self quite humbly in comparison with the noble and cultured bigbugs of the arrogant old world. . Since then, however, he has learned to regard them with his own eyes; and he has mada sure that be aises up pretty well with the best of them, from bridge whist to an Olympic)' And they have coma to think ao, too. But the American woman h nni ho m,.h nt -n opportunity to show her pacea until recently, when the increasing number of Americans resident abroad, in consequence of International marriages and of ex panding American finance and trade, has afforded her the first real chance of being seen and appreciated aa a type distinguishable from tba hordes of crude tour ists whose faux paa ao maligned her. Now that American colonies" In Europe are suffi ciently representative to make their Influence felt In the various capitals with London the most Impres sionable and impressed the American woman has ven tured to decline Cuxopean leading strings aa essential aids to social salvation, So far as the fashions, at least, are oencernad, aha i Makes her own choice,' regardless of the tendencies of rie foreigners about her. The result this season haa een a series of unbroken triumphs for her person ality and her taste. OWES MUCH TO NATURE The American woman, with her advantages of face and flgare and her Inborn, infallible taste, rarely falls to come out of the Parisian autocrat's imposing aulte with title to- that gown which, while it may not be tba most ornate, most expensive or most original of hie season's "creations," l, assuredly the gown which most perfectly suits her Individual styie. Hundreds of American women, doing that same In scrutable miracle, year in and year out. have finally produced the Inevitable effect Europe Is acknowl edglng Its inferiority In women, although asserting Its superiority in dressmakers. Eoaland is still la spasms of chsrrln over the startling views voled by Xary Mortimer Maxwell, an Englishwoman, who, havng lived in New Terk for four years, went back heme and was so disgusted with the appearance of ber countrywomen that a he came right ut and published what she thought. There was brief national gasp of horror at the aariire of daring to drvani that anything or aay bodr IvncUsh was not better than anything and any dr aiee. The clamor tJiat buret forth en the mill ions ef reeoverinar breaths was. ' however. pierce4 by-the im rebuke ef a peeress, the emlneatly re spectable and respected tenateea of Meatb, ... .painful dlc,tum, left the generalities to the returned traveler and devoted herself "to the damning details. Item: She waa astonished, last year; to hear of her compatriots paying 60 for a hat; this year, hats being doubled In else, she surmises they are double In price. Item: She sees women wearing, on the street! quantltiea of costly jewelry, which must inevitably tempt the poor to thievery. Item: She knows numbers of women who deplore, aa ahe does, extravagant and unsuitable dressing, and nearly all of them go right on obeying the die tatea of that fooflah virgin, fashion. Which, as the returning travelers of America and the discriminating dressmakers here agree, la pre cisely what makes the Englishwoman, high born or middle class, te worst dressed creature on earth. " There are two or three essentials for a well dressed appearance. One Is a good hgure as well aa a pretty lace; another la funda sufficient to buy some really good clothes; and the third la the judgment, aa well as the taste, to choose those clothes only which are adapted to the individual style. The Engllsnwoman's figure Is distinctly athletic while ahe is young; when she Is in years, she Is prooe to be gross and flabby. She has one Incompa rable charm, ner complexion. by some rare good fortune, that slim, athletlo figure of hers, maintained In its lathlike hlplessness by more walking than any other woman In the world will make herself a martyr to. Is the ultra-fashion-able ngure just at present. 60 she Is far from being poor as to the first essential In fashion's sight. And she haa money enough to supply the second essential. On the third, aba fails down, thud! She parts her hair In the middle In front and does It up in bun In tne back. Thea, whatever the face nature gave her, ahe plants on top of ber head an enormous hat. Her head, seen full face with hair a 1 Clytie. looks classlo. anadorned; seen from any angle, with her hat. It looksxcomicaL If she Imagine that a garden hat Is ef the fash ionable shape, sbe wui wear It. even with a tailored aulu If she hapten te affect the heavy. English shoe which la traot a broan. she'll wear It to the garden party. If she be persuaded that hltb-heeled flippers are stylish, she will wear them in the pear lag rain. And. from Oroeveaer eqaare te Wnltschapel ahe u big feet. Over in rrsnce femininity Is ell enrvea. with wmrp weleta and renereua btpa. The ransleane will let fashion ge chae the ether foolish virgins la the matter of coiffure; ahe will arrange her hair te salt her face. fa.iil accurately as date aa te hata If tba bat f the seasen be not slaaaea to fit her faoa, or ahe will use her hair to make a compromise whloh Invariably results in a harmonious combination above the neck. And. having that Indispensable foundation for good looks, a figure, she never dons a gown whlcb Is 111 fitting or one that clashes with bar hat. ' But she will disregard the time of day as Inso lently as Americans used to. Even among the haute noblesse one will see white furs in the morning and long lace veils. Her feet are not aggressively large, but the whole female half of the population of France make the atranger within her gates wonder whether they had to go barefoot up until yesterday afternoon at half past S o'clock. Their footgear, it seems, is almoat big enough for both feet to fit into either half the pair, aa though, accustomed to the wide freedom of nothing at all. they ooulir not endure anything snug. As for the Trench slipper," so dear to romance, it la a dream, a Action, a aever-was, like dainty- Cinderella'a. ILLUSIONS SHATTERED In jewelry they will wear anything and every thing, anyhow and anywhere. Rings on their fingers, up to the Index, are common; rings on their thumbs are "chic"; and It Is a solemn fact known to every faithful follower ef the stage that It was a Parl slenne who first wore rings on her toea. the painta her face morning, eoon and night. Whether It is ever washed off. or Just wears off. Is one ef theee sublime mysteries which she aloae can solve and she won't telL Beeldea, she's mostly ugly. The Viennese, tamed la eong and story and able to famish romaneee that make Paris obvious. Is in reality a large, aad frequeatly fat. pernea whose comet mast never fit her. because ber gewns never rem amenable te their hooks or buttons. She te liable, when luck favors, te be pretty, but dumpy. Her dreaeee are works ef art In their details. iChtmaree tn their ensemble. It she ba the ahrewa. ee te Insert herself late a tailored salt, ber eea sr I even ess .of ber evperabnadajwy te ee acuta that she tries te redtx-e bereett. nitll her face leeka te be ee the verge ef apepleiy. Tvre le eveit a rrid--a Monde and beafteoaa fcerj'4 ef te r of the amertcen dr-eanteker. When IAUiaa Ril 1. wbeee meet bltUr eeemlee bave never axemeed ber of alighting that beaalifal V M J t 11 1 P "to r 'fir- it WW f s m bunch of pulchritude with which nature endowed, her, returned to New York from Paris this season, she was Veering one of those gorgeousnesses which sig nify the adorned Lillian a mile out In the offlng. And she hadn't a single not a single Paris costume to lure the customs into a publicity row. What was more, she never Intended to have any no, never again! - . . "Why?" everybody demanded, because Lillian with out Paris sounded Ilka Paris without Americans. "Because I'm going to wear gowns that are made right here In little old New York" the fairest one can be Impressively emphatic when ahe means busl- ness "I'm going to stick to American-made gowns, summer and winter. They are better than tba Pari sian productions. ( "People have been, asking, time and again, which establishment I patronise in Paris. I tell you, It made them sit up and take notice when I said our New York dressmakers are superior to, those abroad." One awallow doesn't make a summer, nor ona -Lillian a movement. Yet, while 'the" merTcah"wlHnaa of fashion continues to hie herBellL to Paris for her special gowns, the acknowledgment of ber queendom in matters of dress In the way she wears her gowns, : no matter where secured is a marked tribute to ber tasts and personality. A British Caruso Found ? Storing Eggs i n Lard ANEW method of preserving eggs has been finding favor in Italy as the result, ot the experiments of a Dr. Campanlni. ; His theory Is tnat to preserve egga some system, must be adopted that will absolutely-prevent the ex change between the air outside and that Inside the egg for it Is this continual exchange that causes pu trefaction. Dr. Campanlni selected fresh eggs and covered tfeem with lard, so as to effectually stop up all the pores. The shells were thus rendered impermeable, the change of air was prevented and the obstruction of the pores not - permitting the evaporation of the water, there was no loss ot weight. The whites and yellows of the eggs retained their color perfectly and the taste was not modified In the slightest degree. When properly coated with lard not too thickly the eggs are put in baskets or boxes upon a bed of tow or fine odorless shavings and so arranged that there will be no point of contact between them other wise a mould will develop and putrefaction result. ' The packing room should, oe perfectly ary, tne ques tion of temperature not being important. By hla process Dr. Campanlni kept a quantity of eggs for a year through a very hot summer and a very cold winter and they were perfectly preserved. He says that 4 cents' worth of lard in hla country suffices to coat 100 eggs, and that any one could easily prepare that number of eggs in one hour s time. WAKEFIELD, England, expects to go down Into musical history as the birthplace of a British Caruso, all because a street car driver named Potts has been discovered to be the possessor of a marvelous voice. ... . Soma time ago the daughter of lady Catherine Mllnes-Uaskell attended a small concert in Wakefield, at whlrrh the car driver sang. His very first rich, mellow notes struck Miss Mllnes-Gaskell with wonder. 6.10 had never heard a voice of such marvelous purity and sweetness; It was a gold mine of incalculable richness. She induced the young singer to go to London; the opinion of the leading vocal experts confirmed hers that Potts' voice was one in thousands; and the car driver commenced the course of training which one day ha hopes will make him a veritable king of song. A few years ago Herr Zlchrer, the famous Aus traln composer, was disturbed in his work by the con stant singing of a mald-of-all-work next door. In order to stop the annoyance he Interviewed the young woman, assured her that she, possessed a charming voice, but begged her to give It a complete rest for a year In order to avoid injuring It. This rather dis ingenuous advice the maid seemed to follow; at least. Herr Zlchrer was not bothered after that by the voice next door. Two years later he was amazed to find that the young, woman had blossomed into an ope ratic star and was making a splendid salary. Among the students at the Royal Academy ot Music is a young Bangor cabman, of whom great things are expected. By accident some one competent to judge found that he possessed a splendid tenor voice. A leading singer in an English opera company was formerly a Welsh coal miner, who won the chief prize for solo singing at the Welsh eisteddfod several years ago. Equally romantic stories are told of several of the violin prodigies who have recently come Into notice. Heinrlch Fielder was discovered by a wealthy Welsh woman who was traveling In the Tyrols and who heard his remarkable playing In a cafe. She took him to London and started bim on the road to fame and fortune. Leopold Lustlg, who has been a pupil of Professor August Wllbelmj, was taken by his preceptor from an East End show. One day while WilhelmJ was walking through that section he heard the boy impro vising wonderfully on his fiddle. At once he obtained the consent of the parents for $he boy's musical edu i Switzerland Banishes Absinthe j SWITZERLAND has finally banished ebslnthe.x Vice j Consul I J. Frankenthal reports from Berne that . the popular Initiative prohibiting abalntba bas teen adopted by the little republic by a VOe otJ,S8 j against 135.888. The total vote cast waa 7i,470atrorn j a voting strength of over 807.700. showing that 136,009 1 voters did not go to the polls. . . f Its acceptance amends the Swiss constitution by as paragraph prohibiting the manufacture, importation j and sale of absinthe in Swltserland. Damages will j undoubtedly be paid to the manufacturera In the Can- ! ton Neuchatel, where a flourishing export Industry! had been built up. The federal alcohol monopoly will lose a large sum annually. v . ine voice or tne r rencn Z.-.CZ Tl Valals, Frlbourg and Neuchatel where abainthe I consumed and where, in Geneva and Vaud, Its saie was recently prohibited by cantonal ordinances, re jected the federal initiative by a email majority. .Tne vote in the German cantons, however, where absintne Is practically unknown, turned the tide In favor ot the measure. . - The question now arises how the federal proni bltlon will work, since the federal ovBrBmB no police force of Its own and la dependent upon tne cantonal police. If S0.000 of the 1SS.000 voters against the Initiative sign a second Initiative, they can tore the matter to a popular vote for th aeoond time. , , IMPROVING A SMALL FIGURE Dcn't yoa Hink th lx,U tttr la tiUP Ttirtjr per cent. ttter, msdtnie."
