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TIIH OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, - PORTLAND, SUNDAY KORNING; SEPTEMBER 0, 1905 '. I
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JUTOS
So Declare English
Great Chagrin Abroad
. rTlHE American woman is blosioming in.
to a new distinction. fShe is conced- .
' r ed the glory of being the best dress
s edt woman 'in the world ' ;
All the glory is hers. The measure' ' 1
attractiveness possessed by women of other-
lands is to be attributed largely to their dress
v.akers: The Ameritbn woman's is. all her
own; her charm is in'jheway she wears her
dress, no matter where she buys, it y
. Her good jooXs, plus her &arm, plus
her taste, enable her to reap loveliness unal
loyed in the dressmaking establishments of
such a rich field as Paris t where other women,
with as much money and, perhaps, greater,
influence, are able to achieve only mediocrity.
She has not claimed the fame that is
coming to her. Like the male American's
candidacy for office, it is being thrust upon
her. 1 , V - "
Her rivals, who have been principally
English, have quit all competition in despair,
being moved thereto not by any aggrandize-'
ment of honors on the partof the American
divinity, but by the stinging criticisms of
their own people and by the now haHnting
sense of their own inferiority.
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If:
,8ha Averred that Mli Maxwell was well within
thi facta, and added aoraa. After that, JEngllahworoen
have been penitently taking . account of stock,, and
confessing that they have not ao much on the reat
of the world aa tbey fondlr Imagined.
' "The Englishwoman la overdraaaad," la what MUa
.Maxwell said, after her four years of education In
good taata In Naif, York city, "Many American and
French women hare gone o far aa to declare the
women of England are horn with, the faculty of taste
totally rudiment!. That la unjust.
"Englishwomen In tlmea - pait jflld know how
to dress; but not now. "They uaed to laugh at the
Americana, wearing- diamond earrings at breakfast.
"I find the Englishwoman of today going shop
ping at ,11 In tba morning In a allk or aatln gown, '
lace trimmed, which she trails over floors and drags
after her while she climbs to the top of omnibuses,
with her laces flying and her osprey plumes tumbling
from her overtrimmed hat.
"The neat, trim attire of the New York business
woman is In soothing contrast with the sloppy over
dressing of tba clerks and stenographers one sees
nowadays on London's streets.
"Time has gone by when the American woman
can be honestly indloted for vulgar ostentation In
dress; the time Is here whan tba accusation' can be
properly leveled at Englishwomen.,
"The American woman now has "more regard for
the proprieties than we."
Tba countess of Meatb, whan she Indorsed the
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PKIOR to the enormdus Industrial expansion and
the notable enhancement of national self-esteem
that were sequent upon the Spanish War,
the average American was prone to take him
self quite humbly in comparison with the noble and
cultured bigbugs of the arrogant old world. .
Since then, however, he has learned to regard them
with his own eyes; and he has mada sure that be
aises up pretty well with the best of them, from bridge
whist to an Olympic)' And they have coma to think
ao, too.
But the American woman h nni ho m,.h nt -n
opportunity to show her pacea until recently, when the
increasing number of Americans resident abroad, in
consequence of International marriages and of ex
panding American finance and trade, has afforded her
the first real chance of being seen and appreciated aa
a type distinguishable from tba hordes of crude tour
ists whose faux paa ao maligned her.
Now that American colonies" In Europe are suffi
ciently representative to make their Influence felt In
the various capitals with London the most Impres
sionable and impressed the American woman has ven
tured to decline Cuxopean leading strings aa essential
aids to social salvation,
So far as the fashions, at least, are oencernad, aha
i Makes her own choice,' regardless of the tendencies of
rie foreigners about her. The result this season haa
een a series of unbroken triumphs for her person
ality and her taste.
OWES MUCH TO NATURE
The American woman, with her advantages of
face and flgare and her Inborn, infallible taste, rarely
falls to come out of the Parisian autocrat's imposing
aulte with title to- that gown which, while it may not
be tba most ornate, most expensive or most original
of hie season's "creations," l, assuredly the gown
which most perfectly suits her Individual styie.
Hundreds of American women, doing that same In
scrutable miracle, year in and year out. have finally
produced the Inevitable effect Europe Is acknowl
edglng Its inferiority In women, although asserting
Its superiority in dressmakers.
Eoaland is still la spasms of chsrrln over the
startling views voled by Xary Mortimer Maxwell,
an Englishwoman, who, havng lived in New Terk
for four years, went back heme and was so disgusted
with the appearance of ber countrywomen that a he
came right ut and published what she thought.
There was brief national gasp of horror at the
aariire of daring to drvani that anything or aay
bodr IvncUsh was not better than anything and any
dr aiee. The clamor tJiat buret forth en the mill
ions ef reeoverinar breaths was. ' however. pierce4
by-the im rebuke ef a peeress, the emlneatly re
spectable and respected tenateea of Meatb, ...
.painful dlc,tum, left the generalities to the returned
traveler and devoted herself "to the damning details.
Item: She waa astonished, last year; to hear of
her compatriots paying 60 for a hat; this year, hats
being doubled In else, she surmises they are double
In price.
Item: She sees women wearing, on the street!
quantltiea of costly jewelry, which must inevitably
tempt the poor to thievery.
Item: She knows numbers of women who deplore,
aa ahe does, extravagant and unsuitable dressing,
and nearly all of them go right on obeying the die
tatea of that fooflah virgin, fashion.
Which, as the returning travelers of America and
the discriminating dressmakers here agree, la pre
cisely what makes the Englishwoman, high born or
middle class, te worst dressed creature on earth.
" There are two or three essentials for a well
dressed appearance. One Is a good hgure as well aa
a pretty lace; another la funda sufficient to buy some
really good clothes; and the third la the judgment,
aa well as the taste, to choose those clothes only
which are adapted to the individual style.
The Engllsnwoman's figure Is distinctly athletic
while ahe is young; when she Is in years, she Is
prooe to be gross and flabby. She has one Incompa
rable charm, ner complexion.
by some rare good fortune, that slim, athletlo
figure of hers, maintained In its lathlike hlplessness
by more walking than any other woman In the world
will make herself a martyr to. Is the ultra-fashion-able
ngure just at present. 60 she Is far from being
poor as to the first essential In fashion's sight. And
she haa money enough to supply the second essential.
On the third, aba fails down, thud!
She parts her hair In the middle In front and does
It up in bun In tne back. Thea, whatever the face
nature gave her, ahe plants on top of ber head an
enormous hat. Her head, seen full face with hair
a 1 Clytie. looks classlo. anadorned; seen from any
angle, with her hat. It looksxcomicaL
If she Imagine that a garden hat Is ef the fash
ionable shape, sbe wui wear It. even with a tailored
aulu If she hapten te affect the heavy. English
shoe which la traot a broan. she'll wear It to the
garden party. If she be persuaded that hltb-heeled
flippers are stylish, she will wear them in the pear
lag rain.
And. from Oroeveaer eqaare te Wnltschapel ahe
u big feet.
Over in rrsnce femininity Is ell enrvea. with
wmrp weleta and renereua btpa. The ransleane will
let fashion ge chae the ether foolish virgins la
the matter of coiffure; ahe will arrange her hair te
salt her face.
fa.iil accurately as date aa te hata If
tba bat f the seasen be not slaaaea to fit her faoa,
or
ahe will use her hair to make a compromise whloh
Invariably results in a harmonious combination above
the neck.
And. having that Indispensable foundation for
good looks, a figure, she never dons a gown whlcb
Is 111 fitting or one that clashes with bar hat. '
But she will disregard the time of day as Inso
lently as Americans used to. Even among the haute
noblesse one will see white furs in the morning
and long lace veils.
Her feet are not aggressively large, but the whole
female half of the population of France make the
atranger within her gates wonder whether they had
to go barefoot up until yesterday afternoon at half
past S o'clock.
Their footgear, it seems, is almoat big enough for
both feet to fit into either half the pair, aa though,
accustomed to the wide freedom of nothing at all.
they ooulir not endure anything snug. As for the
Trench slipper," so dear to romance, it la a dream,
a Action, a aever-was, like dainty- Cinderella'a.
ILLUSIONS SHATTERED
In jewelry they will wear anything and every
thing, anyhow and anywhere. Rings on their fingers,
up to the Index, are common; rings on their thumbs
are "chic"; and It Is a solemn fact known to every
faithful follower ef the stage that It was a Parl
slenne who first wore rings on her toea.
the painta her face morning, eoon and night.
Whether It is ever washed off. or Just wears off.
Is one ef theee sublime mysteries which she aloae
can solve and she won't telL
Beeldea, she's mostly ugly.
The Viennese, tamed la eong and story and able
to famish romaneee that make Paris obvious. Is in
reality a large, aad frequeatly fat. pernea whose
comet mast never fit her. because ber gewns never
rem amenable te their hooks or buttons.
She te liable, when luck favors, te be pretty, but
dumpy. Her dreaeee are works ef art In their details.
iChtmaree tn their ensemble. It she ba the ahrewa.
ee te Insert herself late a tailored salt, ber eea
sr I even ess .of ber evperabnadajwy te ee acuta that
she tries te redtx-e bereett. nitll her face leeka te
be ee the verge ef apepleiy.
Tvre le eveit a rrid--a Monde and beafteoaa
fcerj'4 ef te r of the amertcen dr-eanteker.
When IAUiaa Ril 1. wbeee meet bltUr eeemlee
bave never axemeed ber of alighting that beaalifal
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bunch of pulchritude with which nature endowed, her,
returned to New York from Paris this season, she
was Veering one of those gorgeousnesses which sig
nify the adorned Lillian a mile out In the offlng.
And she hadn't a single not a single Paris costume
to lure the customs into a publicity row. What was
more, she never Intended to have any no, never
again! - . .
"Why?" everybody demanded, because Lillian with
out Paris sounded Ilka Paris without Americans.
"Because I'm going to wear gowns that are made
right here In little old New York" the fairest one
can be Impressively emphatic when ahe means busl-
ness "I'm going to stick to American-made gowns,
summer and winter. They are better than tba Pari
sian productions. (
"People have been, asking, time and again, which
establishment I patronise in Paris. I tell you, It
made them sit up and take notice when I said our
New York dressmakers are superior to, those abroad."
One awallow doesn't make a summer, nor ona -Lillian
a movement. Yet, while 'the" merTcah"wlHnaa
of fashion continues to hie herBellL to Paris for her
special gowns, the acknowledgment of ber queendom
in matters of dress In the way she wears her gowns, :
no matter where secured is a marked tribute to ber
tasts and personality.
A British Caruso Found ? Storing Eggs i n Lard
ANEW method of preserving eggs has been finding
favor in Italy as the result, ot the experiments of
a Dr. Campanlni. ;
His theory Is tnat to preserve egga some system,
must be adopted that will absolutely-prevent the ex
change between the air outside and that Inside the
egg for it Is this continual exchange that causes pu
trefaction. Dr. Campanlni selected fresh eggs and covered
tfeem with lard, so as to effectually stop up all the
pores. The shells were thus rendered impermeable,
the change of air was prevented and the obstruction
of the pores not - permitting the evaporation of the
water, there was no loss ot weight. The whites and
yellows of the eggs retained their color perfectly and
the taste was not modified In the slightest degree.
When properly coated with lard not too thickly
the eggs are put in baskets or boxes upon a bed of
tow or fine odorless shavings and so arranged that
there will be no point of contact between them other
wise a mould will develop and putrefaction result. '
The packing room should, oe perfectly ary, tne ques
tion of temperature not being important.
By hla process Dr. Campanlni kept a quantity of
eggs for a year through a very hot summer and a
very cold winter and they were perfectly preserved.
He says that 4 cents' worth of lard in hla country
suffices to coat 100 eggs, and that any one could easily
prepare that number of eggs in one hour s time.
WAKEFIELD, England, expects to go down Into
musical history as the birthplace of a British
Caruso, all because a street car driver named
Potts has been discovered to be the possessor of a
marvelous voice. ... .
Soma time ago the daughter of lady Catherine
Mllnes-Uaskell attended a small concert in Wakefield,
at whlrrh the car driver sang. His very first rich,
mellow notes struck Miss Mllnes-Gaskell with wonder.
6.10 had never heard a voice of such marvelous purity
and sweetness; It was a gold mine of incalculable
richness.
She induced the young singer to go to London; the
opinion of the leading vocal experts confirmed hers
that Potts' voice was one in thousands; and the car
driver commenced the course of training which one
day ha hopes will make him a veritable king of song.
A few years ago Herr Zlchrer, the famous Aus
traln composer, was disturbed in his work by the con
stant singing of a mald-of-all-work next door. In
order to stop the annoyance he Interviewed the young
woman, assured her that she, possessed a charming
voice, but begged her to give It a complete rest for a
year In order to avoid injuring It. This rather dis
ingenuous advice the maid seemed to follow; at least.
Herr Zlchrer was not bothered after that by the voice
next door. Two years later he was amazed to find
that the young, woman had blossomed into an ope
ratic star and was making a splendid salary.
Among the students at the Royal Academy ot
Music is a young Bangor cabman, of whom great
things are expected. By accident some one competent
to judge found that he possessed a splendid tenor
voice. A leading singer in an English opera company
was formerly a Welsh coal miner, who won the chief
prize for solo singing at the Welsh eisteddfod several
years ago.
Equally romantic stories are told of several of the
violin prodigies who have recently come Into notice.
Heinrlch Fielder was discovered by a wealthy Welsh
woman who was traveling In the Tyrols and who
heard his remarkable playing In a cafe. She took him
to London and started bim on the road to fame and
fortune.
Leopold Lustlg, who has been a pupil of Professor
August Wllbelmj, was taken by his preceptor from
an East End show. One day while WilhelmJ was
walking through that section he heard the boy impro
vising wonderfully on his fiddle. At once he obtained
the consent of the parents for $he boy's musical edu
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Switzerland Banishes Absinthe j
SWITZERLAND has finally banished ebslnthe.x Vice j
Consul I J. Frankenthal reports from Berne that .
the popular Initiative prohibiting abalntba bas
teen adopted by the little republic by a VOe otJ,S8 j
against 135.888. The total vote cast waa 7i,470atrorn j
a voting strength of over 807.700. showing that 136,009 1
voters did not go to the polls. . . f
Its acceptance amends the Swiss constitution by as
paragraph prohibiting the manufacture, importation j
and sale of absinthe in Swltserland. Damages will j
undoubtedly be paid to the manufacturera In the Can- !
ton Neuchatel, where a flourishing export Industry!
had been built up. The federal alcohol monopoly will
lose a large sum annually. v .
ine voice or tne r rencn Z.-.CZ Tl
Valals, Frlbourg and Neuchatel where abainthe I
consumed and where, in Geneva and Vaud, Its saie
was recently prohibited by cantonal ordinances, re
jected the federal initiative by a email majority. .Tne
vote in the German cantons, however, where absintne
Is practically unknown, turned the tide In favor ot
the measure. . -
The question now arises how the federal proni
bltlon will work, since the federal ovBrBmB
no police force of Its own and la dependent upon tne
cantonal police. If S0.000 of the 1SS.000 voters against
the Initiative sign a second Initiative, they can tore
the matter to a popular vote for th aeoond time. , ,
IMPROVING A SMALL FIGURE
Dcn't yoa Hink th lx,U tttr la tiUP
Ttirtjr per cent. ttter, msdtnie."