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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Aug. 23, 1908)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST 23. 190S First the Narrow Sask i the Sheath Skirt. on lUie Sash Widens, But Is Still Wound Aroun the Figure. jfflie Sash Full, Is Becomes Also Use Festoons and Then the Overskirt More d m A ppears w "HEX there happens to he a great ado In New York, when all the presses throb and .ill the tongues are n clatter, In discussion of something not quite nice say Salerno or the sheath pnwn. Every one aboard was practlc inc the proper knee artion. The train of the gow n with t hoi satin sheen wan heavily weighted so that it pulled back when the lady walked- no, strode and showed the knees. Just recall the stage beauty, the amhassador's wife In the Merry Mow. site who was more klrt one concludes that we must real- kised against than kissing." This ly have a Riant mentor-like the gods sevpro dl-ectolre gown that calls for In mythology named "Public Disap proval," who In his motor car of 1",- 00-centaur power rides royally and wrathfully In pursuit of evil. Above in ' the clouds, or Just over the roof tops, he Bpeeds. and sometimes he shoos, and sometimes he shoots and really kills, for If "Public Disapproval" In New York comes out to condemn dance or a dress often It Is exterminat ed in all other cities, or perhaps it !s A Gown of Khaki-Colored Tus sore with Full Overskirt Draped Over Pleated Skirt. The Latest Development in Drapery. B A Gown of White Shantung Silk with Little Jacket of Apple Green Taffeta and Black Satin Reveres. The Narrow Sash Illus- First Approach a ,11 SL ' 'MO ' . I . n I ' T rflll I 1 II I I l unci "ere u .t.wh i:, ,. i,,. i M fmp& V W wr -rj, Hlfl JMSj l: 1 11 winding of ,ca..z.. ,n,, M, Mm v - lYi'il I 11 1 W 1 calln ill;. . hi. H it : I1J! ! . A rlpS 'iiJi OJ WHY I iMlfi ,f , I L Joi':"-- :.V. .ut a business plil V- I rYtH'3i I ' . . e-.r,.inKs off. I ?.V I j f .'".'.V, ""-,'. ...';Zumm',T 'f " '-rv so loudly of the '- J; KlSS'te? ; '; : t::' y'"'- r;n '": : y 1 13' w . A i: .i 'I.in. to In ni.i . k. '.(i' "'!: (,:,! , a n,r:rli, T fpS t -r o .f f. - , n7'' r M ' ' !-. ' t a ,u J r r l ! , v ) A f - I ' r p-S.i i . i . . t t ' : ,.r," " U''' - ---- , , . f ; k ; t -r r-j. . . . a i.j'Wft'r T r " 1 f In ' . t n a.; 1 1 1 : T f- 1 ' ' . 1 " T -i r I ' i : , i ; w s m - : a - -' ! 'i. - j v rr. ; ' - t " '' t M n sr, 1 h: jf a Oil r, S;t ' . r 1 . , j r I I J P d iM ' j C The Sash Widen. On This Lead-Colored Gown it is of Silk of the Same Shade. D A Gown of Mediterranean Blue Draped with Sash of Same Color. The Sash is Full and Also Wide, and Illustrates the Third Period in Drapery. E White Gown with Black Gauze Hi 1 Flit) .!V wolii;:u sl'-ndi-i Willi ..-'..r wrar a like Kipiiu.'TH Aftr t!i if! l-ss. graceful a k-h.s ioi" 'i .she floats 'ar from tl ii'rn's cowrs I"-:.. She foh.s ai.d eai-h morn--n pink, blue or we see fs waist, and hips, these k i f f ,in on a shouiiit-rs thetf or. This is tllH ii Thcte are n. .ne of the hip is luwon. what picture A " Ti i. , l. .in "verskiit l,i" the on-' tun! use.l to wear.' (rai-e I'Oi.sidci able fullness. :t the skirt below is in fine but it ipod Krtd I"ull is tit pi lit To make a summary of this case of sartorial evolution: First, the sheath untiiiniii.il. s'.-ond, with u. narrow sar-h. thir.l. with a wide sash tightly draped, t ortli. with a wide sasli looselj draped ai.d I Io n the overskirt. And what th-n? Well, the shfa'Ji sknt will be but a natif" sensation, if lv erioucli. in old fashion rooks fh Wives of who ii are now yellow with (Inif i. ne finds lit was in a July pub lication of LSSOl pictures that show ov. i skirts much like that on our gay w . t summer cirl. in picture A. This ov. .skirt a'so followed a period when (Rut listrn' Peep Into these paren theses' 1 hope no n.'Ui fidk are locking miT your shoulders. In old fashion bonks published In Ylertra one reads -that the huchgebauschter Hinterbahii canie ii'vi "Ach. wie oh. weh! will say the lierman hausfrau who peeps Into f v,,Ifiitn as she danced In the wood these parentheses, for. as Iirecoll In j)nn't vou remember Viola Allen in the ienna weiild explain, the lioehKehauseh.- . , -y, Kathered the fl.iners foe i iiigii-ooiiL, KK-i,nfjs wherewith to deck. Iier gown. clan lik. tunics. Sometimes a Pleated nhl bung over the plain skirt or ice era, a olain tunic Is seen over pleat-d skirt. 'I here is also an over skirt that is turned tip fisherwlfe fish ioii. and still another of the shorter Fini that clasps the figure like tlm hard, shiny encasement of a beetle. It is given a still more huglike effect by a twilled braid (the little loops up standing! that divides the encasement into rertiaus. Separate,! by ribs. The braid also irmkos a lung line down the tightly flttintr sleeve. However, remember, it Is better to be dimply up-to-date, really out-of-date, than to be too far ah-ad of the fash ions In one's own country. Perhaps .i be up-lo tomorrow insteud of only ut-to-datc Is desirable, but don't try to lie up-to-next summer. Besides the draperies, festoons, over skirts and tunics tin re are skirts m oie of tnree deep flounces, eaej: of eipi.tl length. Laee gow; for garden parti's are partieularlv fetcnlng when designed in tliis wav The prettv Ftcnch girl, when she (joes to the fete champed.-, wears n lace frock with n flounced sklit and festooned with flowers. One thinks never think of the queer wayx of uslnc flowers now In vogue In Frame. Of courne tlte flowere on the luce frock of mudeinolNcllo ure Imitation, white Per dlta were gathered from jdant and Iniith. The French girl In lace has garland of roes attached to the third and low est flounce of her lace frocks -and not far above her ankles. A large bouquet of roses, also artificial, is worn at the waistline (where the buckle ordinarily would be), and the floweia and foliage lie In an expansive mass crushed against the corsage. On her parasol, covered - with little flounces of lace, there are also festoons of Imitation rosea, and In Iter cheeks Imitation rosea likewise bloom, though, to an unsophisticated eye, she is a picture of pink and white innocence. She is far more elegant than Perdlta, but Perdlta's roses were real, both those in her garlands and those in her face. In .S'ew York we now have a fad most poetic. It Is still In its infancy, but It was born in this country. No one went to Paris to find It. Women ate wearing boaa made of real roses. Their frag rance proves their genuineness, and It Is a pretty trick to pull out a few petals and nibble daintily. If those who state seem doubtful. The other night when Chollle and I were having dinner at the Plaza we saw a stunning beauty with prematurely white hulr, but with a high color. With her black and white gown she wore a boa of La France roses very full and long. She was of the same type as the beautiful Mrs. George W'ilcott Hubbell, who always wears pink rosea In her snow-white hair. Imagine a long orchid boa with the pure purple flowers helped out a bit by maline of the same color. All the beaux will have big bills at the florists if this fad becomes Infectious. When a man goes to take his dearest to the theatre he will often pause nnd murmur. "Ry jove! 1 forgot to buy her a boa!" In other days he only bought a bouquet. Now. the poor fellow will buy gardenias, orchids, rosea and violets by the yard. The girls will bo able to measure one another's boas with great ease and ac curacy "He bought me only three and five-eighths yards of orchids, and to night site has a lion that measures seven nt least." F.ven Chollle la worried for fear. Instead of a bunch of violets, I'll demand a six-yard boa for a squarer. MODIFIED MUSIC By James J. Montague. (The .classical operas are to be popu larized so as to Increase their vogue In the. rnlted States. --News Item.) We haven't the yearning for opera yet our souls wo can hardly attune To the harrowing harmony Wagner can get from ten drums and a six shot bassoon; But soon we shall fight for our seats every night, in classical music, to revel. And we'll howl our encore for the toughest of scores, when they're brought to the popular level. For instance, rnruso of Lucia will make a rip-roaring, popular bit. When he cuts th" sextette, for variety's sake, and warbles as follows, fo wl!: "Please, Mr. Policeman, must my father go to jail? The hot-dogs that he stole, sir, trns petrified and stale; We couldn't eat a one. sir, so we thrower) 'em at the cat: That's honest, what we done, sir; do you think that .lust for that My papa ought to go to Jail?" When Wagner gets busy with salvos of pound, they'll chop his score off in the middle. Cut out all the blasting, and shange it around until vou can hear but one fiddle: Accompanying ' which . Madame Melha will croon, as a sort of a musical atari tunic Is To a ir,nKing and luring and langorous tune, the following neart-tnrnn-blng ballad: trr Hint, id, aim Is a bustl bwsth 1 "Aeh. wie oil, weh!" "Mon I M-n Good gracious"' "Ain't It aw ful. Mabel".'' one iiee.rs among the cries. repcatsjtself. Curiou- J'lT, K,' "Public disapnroval' is really far too fussy. He'll Immediately get Into his 1 0,n(i(i-eon taur-po wer car and speed through air across the Atlantic to leuin t ho truth in Paris.) Now don't conclude that the shenth I. .oniied the f Iff ii res (hut with skirt s abandoned in Pans .Moreover. tight short overskirtsi. and was we shall reallv have it here though followed tn turn by overskirts of a moral, mild and modified. In Paris tbev- nieie bouffant sort, the old time panler are wearing every one of the five models drapci les rather suggesting the festoons shown in the Illustrations. Besides In picture K. 'he overskirts there are the more fire- She made a necklace, n girdle and a wreath for Iter hair. She. however. with all her wayward fancies would "When vou think that you're forgotten bv the girl you'd fain forget, You'd better go through bankruptcy, and that's your one best bet; For the lady may report To a breach of promise court. And the more you've saved for rainv days, the more she's sure to get." And in old Trtvntnre, when Sembrloh appears in front of the calabooso w hero Her love, is doing a term of 1 ft years, shell wall no wild, woeful de spair, But merrilv chirrup. "There's worse things than .tugs: lust dry up voi'r lachrymals, klddo." And tak'r.g a seat on n stump, she'll re peat this waltz from the "Jubl !a.:t Widow": "All your trouble 5Veins n bubble; What's the use? Po don't worry: What's the liurrv Till you're loose? Other folks have troubles, worse than you have saw; Supposing vou were an M. D. for Harry Thaw." Why Bachelors Diilike Bad-Tempered Wo men T IS PAID that a bad tempered wo man can cause more actual un pleasantness for the rest of human ity than all the n'hr disagreeable features one finds In life, and the unlucky possessor of an uncontrolled I WOULD NOT BE A SERVANT GIRL the sights for practically servant girl can get and s all nothing At the most a this oru e a week I liv e In. a Idg city. Should 1 watit a rhang parks with their fine bands Th coun trv and the river tn fact, every kind of outing and amusement is within my reach Everv evening being at m,v disposal I can improve rnv mlna by taking lessons, learning languages or music I have have the enough Mm" to take up almost any hohhv or rei reatlon. What should I do In service? Learn Does a Girls "No wi M ean "Y es enly cheaed wa it thrives like pw Hut tf leave f lgjre figures cf the fu tliough New Vork n! hif ' mild, rovrsj nd m..!:?ied f r.eath lrt. And o"- nr.. It er tliis fl'i" "" .,,e. New N. to skip t-rlod In o- Tt r bMild hT Ut.gb - 1- wb4ch. a ti r.ee-. t at Am. ) d..yt-d style kir di- H Inns, raprloiou J '" i o:- .rg th OTrk'rt. w-, droll Is t . tie of tfc rolutten f th uom 't ,. thlnke Of l!r.e in rT fr. t ce towrJ frxxw5. or of t r v oiin4 i:rm -urt forth f- n Its shell villi fcuersnt. flapping ''. .,v&e f t ilkr 'r j UlJtii "f irt. Tt i iii tv 1 inim pei".o drs p- ; i 4 iron' i : ' ' st a- f is i ". n-il : - a A rl'- ' d -;--' l!r'-iCl'" r f-H rd rtt.- b- t., !.. rj;:.g I'.-.Pt g - a , f? no urlf'm a"! i t i Tii surT.ilr' " a V m r d Ar.d - g I hfcv fdTi f ' HAT course a man should pursu ihen his offer of marriage haj been rejected entirely depends upon clrcumstaneee. In the lust place. If he Is prrfe-tlr certain that she Is the one and onlv w-n.n in tne world for him. he mi.t w.-gh l,er ree, tlon very earefully. and find e:t for himself whether or no; her "No may not mean "Yes ' Many a re'erted lover has forgotten that wor.ar. s negative Is only tn a'flrmatlve n. ,r another nam. inil has hence vo.,i himself to perpetual celibacy, w t h h t as dfllked ry ram Ii Indeed i 1 1 tie other hnd. ft man ma en- -,.;, :.o;! jit.j" future ctwinces be may i r' vA. nv tr 1-,, r,is f j)t again on the t-i-iticr; ihf.f ehe did not mti b, sd'd If he had given her time. r,e rr g: ii reaiiiej what she was ..1 n I gntiv away out with powder find patches. The modern lover, as a rule, walks away, nn1 ends In marrying some one else. Perhaps th- may be the better plan, for If his proposal had been made (n the heat of the moment, a calm refwtiao which comes with rejection showi hlro how pun h moe mieerabi he would he been In the future if her "No had bn Ye ' instead But a maji who ts really in lrv e will do wll to propose once more alter a rriertlon A woman ve.ry often dees not reslli the value of a thing till she rs loet It And If she sees that the man sh has rejected seems able to exist without her. she may fall In lov with him from eher perxersity. Tr.er are plenty of vrv ideal mar riages to he seen on all sides whlr.l have bg-;n with No' and endH with e " And both The husband and wife will not fall to tell vou thai they are hom very g!e4 It all en Ifd as it did lock'rnith Rut this was only In r hn ! t" Gonsov I 'Id man was t.erfcti certain that ahe was acthlrg to sit down fjulotlv until I am told to clear a wav the table. A business girl inn Join musical or dramat'o societies, and she has many opportunities of meeting men of good soe'.al position St. i learns the manners and i ustoms of good .society, and is able to cultivate siicb graces as may have been denlel her by birth Put a servant can only ape th airs and antics of her mistress. And her matrimonial ham es are confined to gro. erv cle'ks, w ith a variation among 1 DaKers ass. stains. temper can easily drive to ruin or to other women the men whose misfortune It is to move In her orbit Men are ver mortal being';: 4cey are also very selfish, am! they have a tt" nie.ndous fondnesi for ha ing their physical and mental comfort undis turbed. The average bachelor prizes perma nent peace and content above the happi ness of possessing a beautiful, attract ive creature for a wife, and he kuo.vs thnt a bad-tempered woman and peai e go not together Ne admires a spirited woman, but lie knows that a correspondingl y strong will goe.-i along with strong character, find he expects her to exercise it.' The assertion from a woman that she had a bad temper, and Is proud of it. hee kept more than one worthy man from asking her to share his fortune as his wife. The woman who can control herself under the most trying circumstances is the woman who holds the strongest butchers- As a hethv occupation mine has ail power over man. the advantages. At I am out in the No matter bow beautiful and clevr air for exercise, not confined to under- and fascinating the had-tembere i w o. ground rartmenl And with food to man mav be. or how lengthy tier bank eat of m v own choosing 1 can n-w account, her power Is In: Inltestmsl com nor'h or south, as 1 please Business is the right employment for s girl. With her e-enirgs at her dis posal she can attain to ail her desires 'va.th. amus.-ment and marriage. 8h" ts her own mistress is looked up to and respected She does not depend on the good or ill-temper of others, which is more than a servant can say. A ConlMtt Cutter. From the Bohemian "n earth rut vour lair"' gapped ir.son as her husband arrived pared with that of her amiable sister And -amis hi lit v Is not only power. It Is mental progression and heaiili. and happiness, and long life to ones self and to ones friends and family. "W Mrs i S "tr mn fad to grasp the sense of a the one woman in the whoi world for re er i .n at all. and by sheer persistency him, and that without h-r life would fon In in th long run. rnv dear" replied Mr. i on think a barber had o do with it lnvd I did not retorted Mrs. (ju Humaniams. Fo-r. pople ran hardly bfliere a word they say It doen t take a very large man to make a big boast. Feminine finery has ruined more men than strong drlr.k. Peepe are seldom on time, thev are either nrljr er la'e f irrationally an actress considers a di vorce her best part What a the good of b'ng good If j-ou Judging from tr hg wa it do not let people know it? r th r. t ; f. laia. for 'lnttauc. U aerere 4irettr wUet-ed a-rU T g- r:t f T rVrtM e- - r' t- WI'T t t-e rmt rf A f I r4 - rt mT-nl a - e- t fv-r fr rAf-Tm ifirr " I rr an i5"r,(i It is a fn.ilouab.a crowd, listen te tCt rr.us.c im of man will r the happiest Ignored h sf-r marriage It ts not love that has certain of th ir ! i-d the a'reptsnre. but only te w.r t- h free from an annoyance tr.at hal r-nmf weaneom t t be the fashion fvr man hi-w m bra'ns out when his rropo' met with a rejection, bat that went r persistency rum, inn iiwi minmui it ,nr nnn -- - . ,, I don t know not hsve Wn ath livlrg. and that h hn trimmed l thought perr.aps ll No' tcaue he li io if he nr. t s ire ef win v had bet ter haw takn vr "No" as il nd r-)ot-ed all xr davs of his life that sh-s said it. a to rvrr the wrong woman 1 a led that ?-.y aact mao will never lire te rejoice aU orce of KnTlronnxnTit. Fwn the Baltimore Amerlea. 'Vis Bl has such mobile fa-ee " "Now I thtrk of it I Wliev sjc doef cerr.t from A hvbama." T.ry man ought to te the ol pro prietor ef the shoes he wears The easiest way not to settle a dts ut is to go to law eboiit lt- Mnny a man Imagine Mi wlfes tem per was made fir cross pjrposef A theory .s all right jyntil yon aMejt te ma toe it oo practical stjr.U
