THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING, AUGUST 23. 190S
First the Narrow Sask
i
the Sheath Skirt.
on
lUie Sash Widens,
But Is
Still Wound Aroun
the Figure.
jfflie Sash
Full, Is
Becomes
Also Use
Festoons and Then
the Overskirt
More
d
m
A
ppears
w
"HEX there happens to he a
great ado In New York, when
all the presses throb and .ill
the tongues are n clatter, In
discussion of something not
quite nice say Salerno or the sheath
pnwn. Every one aboard was practlc
inc the proper knee artion. The train
of the gow n with t hoi satin sheen wan
heavily weighted so that it pulled back
when the lady walked- no, strode and
showed the knees. Just recall the stage
beauty, the amhassador's wife In the
Merry Mow. site who was more
klrt one concludes that we must real- kised against than kissing." This
ly have a Riant mentor-like the gods sevpro dl-ectolre gown that calls for
In mythology named "Public Disap
proval," who In his motor car of 1",-
00-centaur power rides royally and
wrathfully In pursuit of evil. Above in
' the clouds, or Just over the roof tops,
he Bpeeds. and sometimes he shoos,
and sometimes he shoots and really
kills, for If "Public Disapproval" In
New York comes out to condemn
dance or a dress often It Is exterminat
ed in all other cities, or perhaps it !s
A Gown of Khaki-Colored Tus
sore with Full Overskirt Draped
Over Pleated Skirt. The Latest
Development in Drapery.
B A Gown of White Shantung
Silk with Little Jacket of Apple
Green Taffeta and Black Satin
Reveres. The Narrow Sash Illus-
First Approach
a ,11 SL
' 'MO '
.
I . n I ' T rflll I 1 II I I l unci "ere u .t.wh i:, ,. i,,. i
M fmp& V W wr -rj,
Hlfl JMSj l: 1 11 winding of ,ca..z.. ,n,,
M, Mm v -
lYi'il I 11 1 W 1 calln ill;. . hi. H it
: I1J! ! . A rlpS
'iiJi OJ WHY
I iMlfi ,f , I L Joi':"-- :.V. .ut a business plil
V- I rYtH'3i I ' . . e-.r,.inKs off.
I ?.V I j f .'".'.V, ""-,'. ...';Zumm',T 'f " '-rv so loudly of the
'- J; KlSS'te? ; '; : t::' y'"'- r;n
'": : y 1 13' w . A i: .i 'I.in. to In ni.i . k. '.(i' "'!: (,:,! , a n,r:rli,
T fpS t -r o .f f. - , n7'' r M ' ' !-. ' t a ,u J r r l ! , v ) A f -
I ' r p-S.i i . i . . t t ' : ,.r," " U'''
- ---- , , . f ; k ; t -r r-j. . . . a i.j'Wft'r T r " 1 f In
' . t n a.; 1 1 1 : T f- 1 ' ' . 1 " T -i r I ' i : , i ;
w s m - : a - -' ! 'i. - j v rr. ; ' - t " '' t M n sr, 1 h: jf a Oil r, S;t ' . r 1 . , j r
I I J
P
d
iM '
j
C The Sash Widen. On This
Lead-Colored Gown it is of Silk
of the Same Shade.
D A Gown of Mediterranean
Blue Draped with Sash of Same
Color. The Sash is Full and
Also Wide, and Illustrates the
Third Period in Drapery.
E White Gown with Black Gauze
Hi
1
Flit)
.!V wolii;:u
sl'-ndi-i Willi
..-'..r wrar a
like Kipiiu.'TH
Aftr t!i if!
l-ss. graceful
a k-h.s ioi"
'i .she floats
'ar from tl
ii'rn's cowrs
I"-:.. She foh.s
ai.d eai-h morn--n
pink, blue or
we see fs
waist, and
hips, these
k i f f ,in on a
shouiiit-rs thetf
or. This is tllH
ii Thcte are n.
.ne of the hip is
luwon. what
picture A "
Ti i. , l. .in "verskiit l,i" the
on-' tun! use.l to wear.' (rai-e
I'Oi.sidci able fullness. :t
the skirt below is in fine
but it
ipod Krtd
I"ull
is tit
pi lit
To make a summary of this case of
sartorial evolution: First, the sheath
untiiiniii.il. s'.-ond, with u. narrow sar-h.
thir.l. with a wide sash tightly draped,
t ortli. with a wide sasli looselj draped
ai.d I Io n the overskirt.
And what th-n? Well, the shfa'Ji
sknt will be but a natif" sensation, if
lv erioucli. in old fashion rooks fh
Wives of who ii are now yellow with
(Inif i. ne finds lit was in a July pub
lication of LSSOl pictures that show
ov. i skirts much like that on our gay
w . t summer cirl. in picture A. This
ov. .skirt a'so followed a period when
(Rut listrn' Peep Into these paren
theses' 1 hope no n.'Ui fidk are locking
miT your shoulders. In old fashion
bonks published In Ylertra one reads
-that the huchgebauschter Hinterbahii
canie ii'vi "Ach. wie oh. weh! will
say the lierman hausfrau who peeps Into f v,,Ifiitn as she danced In the wood
these parentheses, for. as Iirecoll In j)nn't vou remember Viola Allen in the
ienna weiild explain, the lioehKehauseh.- . , -y, Kathered the fl.iners foe
i iiigii-ooiiL, KK-i,nfjs wherewith to deck. Iier gown.
clan lik. tunics. Sometimes a
Pleated nhl bung over the plain skirt
or ice era, a olain tunic Is seen over
pleat-d skirt. 'I here is also an over
skirt that is turned tip fisherwlfe fish
ioii. and still another of the shorter
Fini that clasps the figure like tlm
hard, shiny encasement of a beetle. It
is given a still more huglike effect by
a twilled braid (the little loops up
standing! that divides the encasement
into rertiaus. Separate,! by ribs. The
braid also irmkos a lung line down the
tightly flttintr sleeve.
However, remember, it Is better to be
dimply up-to-date, really out-of-date,
than to be too far ah-ad of the fash
ions In one's own country. Perhaps .i
be up-lo tomorrow insteud of only ut-to-datc
Is desirable, but don't try to
lie up-to-next summer.
Besides the draperies, festoons, over
skirts and tunics tin re are skirts m oie
of tnree deep flounces, eaej: of eipi.tl
length. Laee gow; for garden parti's
are partieularlv fetcnlng when designed
in tliis wav The prettv Ftcnch girl,
when she (joes to the fete champed.-,
wears n lace frock with n flounced sklit
and festooned with flowers. One thinks
never think of the queer wayx of uslnc
flowers now In vogue In Frame. Of
courne tlte flowere on the luce frock of
mudeinolNcllo ure Imitation, white Per
dlta were gathered from jdant and
Iniith.
The French girl In lace has garland
of roes attached to the third and low
est flounce of her lace frocks -and not
far above her ankles. A large bouquet
of roses, also artificial, is worn at the
waistline (where the buckle ordinarily
would be), and the floweia and foliage
lie In an expansive mass crushed against
the corsage. On her parasol, covered
- with little flounces of lace, there are
also festoons of Imitation rosea, and
In Iter cheeks Imitation rosea likewise
bloom, though, to an unsophisticated
eye, she is a picture of pink and white
innocence. She is far more elegant than
Perdlta, but Perdlta's roses were real,
both those in her garlands and those in
her face.
In .S'ew York we now have a fad most
poetic. It Is still In its infancy, but It
was born in this country. No one went to
Paris to find It. Women ate wearing
boaa made of real roses. Their frag
rance proves their genuineness, and It
Is a pretty trick to pull out a few petals
and nibble daintily. If those who state
seem doubtful. The other night when
Chollle and I were having dinner at the
Plaza we saw a stunning beauty with
prematurely white hulr, but with a high
color. With her black and white gown
she wore a boa of La France roses very
full and long. She was of the same type
as the beautiful Mrs. George W'ilcott
Hubbell, who always wears pink rosea
In her snow-white hair.
Imagine a long orchid boa with the
pure purple flowers helped out a bit by
maline of the same color. All the beaux
will have big bills at the florists if this
fad becomes Infectious. When a man
goes to take his dearest to the theatre
he will often pause nnd murmur. "Ry
jove! 1 forgot to buy her a boa!" In
other days he only bought a bouquet.
Now. the poor fellow will buy gardenias,
orchids, rosea and violets by the yard.
The girls will bo able to measure one
another's boas with great ease and ac
curacy "He bought me only three and
five-eighths yards of orchids, and to
night site has a lion that measures seven
nt least." F.ven Chollle la worried for
fear. Instead of a bunch of violets, I'll
demand a six-yard boa for a squarer.
MODIFIED MUSIC
By James J. Montague.
(The .classical operas are to be popu
larized so as to Increase their vogue In
the. rnlted States. --News Item.)
We haven't the yearning for opera yet
our souls wo can hardly attune
To the harrowing harmony Wagner can
get from ten drums and a six
shot bassoon;
But soon we shall fight for our seats
every night, in classical music, to
revel.
And we'll howl our encore for the
toughest of scores, when they're
brought to the popular level.
For instance, rnruso of Lucia will make
a rip-roaring, popular bit.
When he cuts th" sextette, for variety's
sake, and warbles as follows, fo
wl!: "Please, Mr. Policeman, must my father
go to jail?
The hot-dogs that he stole, sir, trns
petrified and stale;
We couldn't eat a one. sir, so we
thrower) 'em at the cat:
That's honest, what we done, sir; do
you think that .lust for that
My papa ought to go to Jail?"
When Wagner gets busy with salvos of
pound, they'll chop his score off
in the middle.
Cut out all the blasting, and shange it
around until vou can hear but
one fiddle:
Accompanying ' which . Madame Melha
will croon, as a sort of a musical
atari
tunic Is To a ir,nKing and luring and langorous
tune, the following neart-tnrnn-blng
ballad:
trr Hint, id, aim Is a bustl
bwsth 1 "Aeh. wie oil, weh!" "Mon
I M-n Good gracious"' "Ain't It aw
ful. Mabel".'' one iiee.rs among the cries.
repcatsjtself. Curiou- J'lT, K,'
"Public disapnroval' is really far too
fussy. He'll Immediately get Into his
1 0,n(i(i-eon taur-po wer car and speed
through air across the Atlantic to leuin
t ho truth in Paris.)
Now don't conclude that the shenth
I. .oniied the f Iff ii res (hut with skirt s abandoned in Pans .Moreover.
tight short overskirtsi. and was we shall reallv have it here though
followed tn turn by overskirts of a moral, mild and modified. In Paris tbev-
nieie bouffant sort, the old time panler are wearing every one of the five models
drapci les rather suggesting the festoons shown in the Illustrations. Besides
In picture K. 'he overskirts there are the more fire-
She made a necklace, n girdle and a
wreath for Iter hair. She. however.
with all her wayward fancies would
"When vou think that you're forgotten
bv the girl you'd fain forget,
You'd better go through bankruptcy, and
that's your one best bet;
For the lady may report
To a breach of promise court.
And the more you've saved for rainv
days, the more she's sure to get."
And in old Trtvntnre, when Sembrloh
appears in front of the calabooso
w hero
Her love, is doing a term of 1 ft years,
shell wall no wild, woeful de
spair, But merrilv chirrup. "There's worse
things than .tugs: lust dry up
voi'r lachrymals, klddo."
And tak'r.g a seat on n stump, she'll re
peat this waltz from the "Jubl
!a.:t Widow":
"All your trouble
5Veins n bubble;
What's the use?
Po don't worry:
What's the liurrv
Till you're loose?
Other folks have troubles, worse than
you have saw;
Supposing vou were an M. D. for Harry
Thaw."
Why Bachelors Diilike Bad-Tempered
Wo men
T IS PAID that a bad tempered wo
man can cause more actual un
pleasantness for the rest of human
ity than all the n'hr disagreeable
features one finds In life, and the
unlucky possessor of an uncontrolled
I WOULD NOT BE A SERVANT GIRL
the sights for practically
servant girl can get
and s all
nothing
At the most a
this oru e a week
I liv e In. a Idg city.
Should 1 watit a rhang
parks with their fine bands Th coun
trv and the river tn fact, every kind of
outing and amusement is within my
reach
Everv evening being at m,v disposal I
can improve rnv mlna by taking lessons,
learning languages or music I have
have the enough Mm" to take up almost any
hohhv or rei reatlon.
What should I do In service? Learn
Does a Girls "No
wi
M
ean
"Y
es
enly cheaed wa
it thrives like pw
Hut tf leave f lgjre
figures cf the fu
tliough New Vork n! hif '
mild, rovrsj nd m..!:?ied f
r.eath lrt. And o"- nr.. It
er tliis fl'i" ""
.,,e. New N.
to skip t-rlod In o- Tt r
bMild hT Ut.gb - 1-
wb4ch. a ti r.ee-. t at Am.
) d..yt-d style kir di-
H Inns, raprloiou J '" i o:-
.rg th OTrk'rt. w-, droll Is t .
tie of tfc rolutten f th uom 't
,. thlnke Of l!r.e in rT fr. t
ce towrJ frxxw5. or of t r v
oiin4 i:rm -urt forth f- n
Its shell villi fcuersnt. flapping ''.
.,v&e f t ilkr 'r j
UlJtii "f irt.
Tt i iii tv 1 inim pei".o
drs p-
; i 4
iron' i : ' ' st a-
f is i ". n-il : - a A
rl'- ' d -;--'
l!r'-iCl'" r
f-H rd rtt.- b-
t., !.. rj;:.g I'.-.Pt
g - a
, f? no urlf'm a"!
i t i Tii surT.ilr' "
a V m r d Ar.d
- g I hfcv fdTi f '
HAT course a man should pursu
ihen his offer of marriage haj
been rejected entirely depends
upon clrcumstaneee.
In the lust place. If he Is
prrfe-tlr certain that she Is the one and
onlv w-n.n in tne world for him. he
mi.t w.-gh l,er ree, tlon very earefully.
and find e:t for himself whether or no;
her "No may not mean "Yes ' Many
a re'erted lover has forgotten that
wor.ar. s negative Is only tn a'flrmatlve
n. ,r another nam. inil has hence
vo.,i himself to perpetual celibacy,
w t h h t as dfllked ry ram Ii Indeed
i 1 1 tie other hnd. ft man ma en-
-,.;, :.o;! jit.j" future ctwinces be may
i r' vA. nv tr 1-,, r,is f j)t again on the
t-i-iticr; ihf.f ehe did not mti b,
sd'd If he had given her time. r,e
rr g: ii reaiiiej what she was
..1 n I gntiv away
out with powder find patches. The
modern lover, as a rule, walks away,
nn1 ends In marrying some one else.
Perhaps th- may be the better plan,
for If his proposal had been made (n the
heat of the moment, a calm refwtiao
which comes with rejection showi hlro
how pun h moe mieerabi he would
he been In the future if her "No had
bn Ye ' instead
But a maji who ts really in lrv e will
do wll to propose once more alter a
rriertlon A woman ve.ry often dees not
reslli the value of a thing till she rs
loet It And If she sees that the man
sh has rejected seems able to exist
without her. she may fall In lov with
him from eher perxersity.
Tr.er are plenty of vrv ideal mar
riages to he seen on all sides whlr.l
have bg-;n with No' and endH with
e " And both The husband and wife
will not fall to tell vou thai they are hom
very g!e4 It all en Ifd as it did lock'rnith
Rut this was only In r hn ! t" Gonsov I 'Id
man was t.erfcti certain that ahe was acthlrg
to sit down fjulotlv until I am told to
clear a wav the table.
A business girl inn Join musical or
dramat'o societies, and she has many
opportunities of meeting men of good
soe'.al position St. i learns the manners
and i ustoms of good .society, and is
able to cultivate siicb graces as may
have been denlel her by birth
Put a servant can only ape th airs
and antics of her mistress. And her
matrimonial ham es are confined to
gro. erv cle'ks, w ith a variation among
1 DaKers ass. stains.
temper can easily drive to ruin or to
other women the men whose misfortune
It is to move In her orbit
Men are ver mortal being';: 4cey are
also very selfish, am! they have a tt"
nie.ndous fondnesi for ha ing their
physical and mental comfort undis
turbed. The average bachelor prizes perma
nent peace and content above the happi
ness of possessing a beautiful, attract
ive creature for a wife, and he kuo.vs
thnt a bad-tempered woman and peai e
go not together
Ne admires a spirited woman, but lie
knows that a correspondingl y strong
will goe.-i along with strong character,
find he expects her to exercise it.'
The assertion from a woman that she
had a bad temper, and Is proud of it.
hee kept more than one worthy man from
asking her to share his fortune as his
wife.
The woman who can control herself
under the most trying circumstances is
the woman who holds the strongest
butchers-
As a hethv occupation mine has ail power over man.
the advantages. At I am out in the No matter bow beautiful and clevr
air for exercise, not confined to under- and fascinating the had-tembere i w o.
ground rartmenl And with food to man mav be. or how lengthy tier bank
eat of m v own choosing 1 can n-w account, her power Is In: Inltestmsl com
nor'h or south, as 1 please
Business is the right employment for
s girl. With her e-enirgs at her dis
posal she can attain to ail her desires
'va.th. amus.-ment and marriage. 8h"
ts her own mistress is looked up to and
respected She does not depend on the
good or ill-temper of others, which is
more than a servant can say.
A ConlMtt Cutter.
From the Bohemian
"n earth rut vour lair"' gapped
ir.son as her husband arrived
pared with that of her amiable sister
And -amis hi lit v Is not only power.
It Is mental progression and heaiili. and
happiness, and long life to ones self
and to ones friends and family.
"W
Mrs i
S "tr mn fad to grasp the sense of a the one woman in the whoi world for
re er
i
.n at all. and by sheer persistency him, and that without h-r life would fon
In in th long run.
rnv dear" replied Mr.
i on think a barber had
o do with it
lnvd I did not retorted Mrs. (ju
Humaniams.
Fo-r. pople ran hardly bfliere a word
they say
It doen t take a very large man to
make a big boast.
Feminine finery has ruined more men
than strong drlr.k.
Peepe are seldom on time, thev are
either nrljr er la'e
f irrationally an actress considers a di
vorce her best part
What a the good of b'ng good If j-ou
Judging from tr hg wa it do not let people know it?
r th r. t ; f.
laia. for 'lnttauc. U aerere 4irettr wUet-ed a-rU
T g- r:t f T rVrtM e- -
r' t- WI'T t t-e rmt rf A f
I r4 - rt mT-nl a - e- t fv-r fr
rAf-Tm ifirr " I rr an
i5"r,(i It is a fn.ilouab.a crowd, listen te tCt rr.us.c
im of man will r the happiest Ignored h
sf-r marriage It ts not love that has certain of th
ir ! i-d the a'reptsnre. but only te
w.r t- h free from an annoyance
tr.at hal r-nmf weaneom
t t be the fashion fvr man
hi-w m bra'ns out when his rropo'
met with a rejection, bat that went
r persistency rum, inn iiwi minmui it ,nr nnn -- - . ,,
I don t know not hsve Wn ath livlrg. and that h hn trimmed l thought perr.aps ll
No' tcaue he li io
if he nr. t s ire ef win v had bet
ter haw takn vr "No" as il nd r-)ot-ed
all xr davs of his life that sh-s
said it. a to rvrr the wrong woman
1 a led that ?-.y aact mao will never
lire te rejoice aU
orce of KnTlronnxnTit.
Fwn the Baltimore Amerlea.
'Vis Bl has such mobile fa-ee "
"Now I thtrk of it I Wliev sjc doef
cerr.t from A hvbama."
T.ry man ought to te the ol pro
prietor ef the shoes he wears
The easiest way not to settle a dts
ut is to go to law eboiit lt-
Mnny a man Imagine Mi wlfes tem
per was made fir cross pjrposef
A theory .s all right jyntil yon aMejt
te ma toe it oo practical stjr.U