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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 12, 1908)
CorMfftt, 1D0H, by Amrteo Examiner, Great Jrttato High fa 4f uua'UtJU.i jl Jiv FJeviual of Extreme Directoire Todes . J A rr7n ,1 miM H 1 JKK 1 ' Uorld of pa5r;io9. j-lou tl?e 5ear;ty 5k'rt: f tr; Uiptr J-Ia5 Devlbped Ipto tr;e Split 5kirt of tr; , moit pliable description, with ths front bone omitted, for the figure drooping In ng-u Mly, either fitting or standing, is now the fashionable pole. As a natter of fast, only a email percentage) of women can afford to appear without tbelr "etaa," aa the English call them. In America corset lores are modifying the armor plate In which they have Insisted on rncaafng the female form devlna for sons time. While coraeta are etill built ex tremely long over tbe hlpa and below the waist both back and front the bones atop short, an extension of coiitll, or of whatever material tie corset la mnde, confining the flesh below. One corset boned with whale bone which b been given successive baths of oil to render it pliable is having a rogue Just now, as It gives a auppla out line, while at the same time apparently re ducing the wearer's alts. With the aheath skirt Ita wearer may have all the will In the world to wear petti coats, but she basn't tbe room I Positively, these skirts are so glove-fitting thnt the presence of a petticoat would be instantly detected In little unpresentable wrinkles that would show through the tightly stretched outer fabric So It"a tlghta for her. These she wears over her corsets to veil tbe ending of the corset Romctlmes she wears a single under garment of chiffon, made princess fashion, so that there may be no line of ending at the waist. French women have, with their usual Ingenuity re- WHAT an excitement! What a fuss I But of one tiling I'm certain It's a- Legions of hands uplifted. Eyes, ing to bs a grand thing for tba eomla ton. in pious horror, lest they opera choruses, should view the awful sight A million For omi tm. w hsT lMr) md rolces chanting disapproval and disgust. of f.,nionsbls rreneh women daring much Id French. In English, In good down-right , flrwi 0f wonaerfol broc,ae, tIlfMlT American. And all because of what? wonn iroona ch,ffon.cjad ,,,. of llmpi Jest because woman, dear caprtclotis gupp,t Mtln 'CRreMlDK an(J ontUnlng the woman, has dared to eliminate a few nn- who,. fltur. of MrtB o( 0, formln, necessary yards of swathing material tbe f0stume decadent dress, it has been from bsr skirt and. worse still, baa dared llk. and who will say It 1) misnamed? to spilt tip that same skirt for balf a Lately, we learn with surprise, of yard or so at the side. In the slang of Jress being made to lift at one side, dls- to-day. "Ain't It awful. Mabel r closing a foot and ankle clad in satin. Horrible! Shocking! I quite agree with Jewel-studded slipper and flesh-colored Too (with smile behind my hand). But, stocking. After all. Its only one more after all. whet could the poor girl do? snip of the scissors and behold, the Like the woman of Do Manrler's story slashed skirt! Oh, no, It wouldn't be at who tearfully said she'd like awfully to all surprising, viewing tbe recent trend sit down, but her dressmaker said aht of fashion, to see smart Parlslennes going conldn't, without the split In the sheath to ths limit of tho Dlrectolre style. But skirt Its wearer would be condemned to u elect to do it, how well It will be A definitely becomes a trifle monotonous one's h,, trlUl softened lights sod appropriate " Shocking the Conservative h'eo frlends who lira in New York's Harlem background will the startling costumes bs pe cf Two World, and travel in a perpendlcalar position worn- Their .jovements will be the re each day, Tia tbe Subway, can testify. ,olt ot lon na carefal study before a B Petticoats Are Banished from the to do not Jndga too harshly. mirror in the solitude of tbelr boudoirs. m p That the Dlrectolre modes the sheath Tbelr W to- wi" carefully thought Wn$ skirt and ths slashed skirt worn over s OTlt- 'or wns modeled on these extreme her skirts. If he makes any pretence of pfttlcoatleaa form are the most startling t'' require most delicsts wearing. keeping up with the fashions, end she Is things in the way of fashions that bars But here! Imagine a figure In a roho impressing upon her home dressmaker that been launched in many meone, there's no Dlrectolre rushing serosa In, front of a she can save enough from the skirt to cnt denying. Bat have they been lanocbed? trolley or sprinting down a subway plat- out a sleeveless cost She reads with awe Isn't It rather ease of Sags flying, bands fonn- The only possible setting would be of the bride who had nineteen pairs of playing, the champsgne bottle smashed the marble palace cottages" and velvet "knickers." silks, satins and non:''". In on the bow and the ship stuck fast on lawns of Newport. Who knows? Perhaps her trousseau nnd not a single solitary tbe ways? One swallow doesn't make a we may so them there before tbe season frilly feminine petticoat Whst a pity! Bnmmer, nor do three dressmaker's models Is over. But at the first opportunity she snesks off parndln it a Trench race course create In the meantime Just the ordinary, and Invests In a pair of tights to wear fashion. everyday woman la taking several reefs Is nnder her new satin evening dress. When mm turesque an object when properly carried, has been seen. Now the Dlrectolre hst is being exploited by fashionable nillllnsrs. It Is tbe shape with which ve are familiar from illustrations of the dress worn during the time of Napoleon. These hats are (jualnt things, of the poke bonnet family, sdorned with three noddlnsr plumes or stiff little bunchsa of posies and always with long satin ribbons, which tls under ons esr, or, more demurely, under the chin. These hats are already being worn by the younger members of the New port smart set. sn! very charming they look with garden piny frocks. Parasols show t-normjusly tall sticks, whlci la but another erldence of Dlrectolre influence. The Split Directoire Skirt Which C The Slashed Skirt Is Often Laced Across with Cords, Which Are Sometimes Caught with Beautiful Buttoni. D E .vrning Dresses Grow More Au daciously Clinging." the Ml! romeg In find her hnshand raises his e.vfhrows nt the Item "tights." she murmurs "itnthlne!" and he doesn't know thst the fnlcful words ''ficoh colored" Re ceded It Now la the day of triumphs for the Iran woman. A.h I've said before, it's reslly viiU-nr tT have what Is commonly called a "so.id figure " The slimmer, the mure straight up nil flown yon s re the hotter. Clothes shroad mefjest the nnfometej rig. ure. If corsets are worn they ere of the E Beautiful Fabrics Are Wound Around the Figure. Supported on the Shoulders by Slender Straps. F Oil Soaked Corset Bones and Skimpy "Knickers" Help to Con struct the Figure of the Moment. Heroes That Save Lives Shall Those Who Risk Death to Rescue Others Be Left to Bear Poverty in Their Old Age? gsrdlng clothes. ' Invented tights bsylng woven silts Just below the tnrn of the hips, through Which a ribbon Is threaded, at taching a petticoat of plnlted moussellne de eip This underskirt appears In the till of the Dlrectolre skirt, veiling tbe ankle and Umlx The Illustrations on this page give s very good Ides nf this much t.Tlkcd of style of drees The Accessories nf the period have been tentative!) put forward for some time. Tba tall Dlrectolre walking stick, ss Ble- Seventy-Five Highly Accomplished Polar Bears Coming Here. SEVENTY rtVFJ polar beers In one rrr,-p! Tiw Is wlthont Q'ietlon the seme of s- -ai trslnsrf : Is t' ere test ' ag greji'lan" 'f r-r'r.rrMriE w"d 1 eauts any Be las ever got together. This glar.t of groapa. too, will 1 r u In Amerl - In the ear future. Their owner, Mr Wlillsm Bagenbejck, a brother of the famous Mr Carl Ilsgeahek, the reiebrsua animal ealer of llanVorg, la now tr. ue? tiatlon for aa extensive America a tour, and. at he avodeetly declared, "It will be a surprise to America, set only s regards number, bat what tk animals eaa do." Only these who save Mr. risgea berk's srooderfal grooy of perfaralng polar bewrs can grasp Wkat It inn as ss t sp taelo sod also sppreelsto sotrethtng of tke 4tfflrsL.'ttc espvrteaced la gvttlog sack a ollectloei tngetbee. Art nstoratlsts) or agree tbst om af ths Sheet 41 IT lew It keasts to trala sa4 ee of tbe asset marellsblo is" tke awlar twar. By aataro tbey are sas taVloas, a4 aJtknfk fairly alert ss cap. tr alsssla, see aeeo too wllllag U tkssre at taa kMdiag of Te trata S slaglo speoiaea of tbe basU fiJl eaewywklta croataras of tba rar Nona as till I task. I&agiac, tbea, what It speass to trsla a wbote ewaipeay f rm tyra. It M tie rauat feat ts &m- takes and sccompllebed 1 tbs whols his tory of animal tralalog. The animals perform fn s specially erected arena surrounded by Polar scen ery Indeed, tbe whols display la sa ss Mhltton In Itself. The bears form pyra mids and gTonps, climb Isdders. drive about la carriages drawn by ponies with monkeys sa outriders, draw sjledges con tslnlu their rompaalona. drink oot Of bot tles, and a host of other trlcka. Mr. nagenbeck's most docile animal Is White Baven, the somewhat Incongruous sppollatloa which baa boon beetewed opoa the elowa of the company, a vary clever browa bear. He follows kta snSstar about ths arena and generally acts tha comic sa all gwod elnwca do. Uany of the bes fcsve ten tsoght to drink est of bottle by holding them to their months with their fore feet It h moat a mowing and comical to' watch so ennrmoos white bear, iseasor Itg aeveo feet la leagth, snddenly alt oa a aeat, grasp a stooe bottle la bis great pa a. lift It to kta moatk sad drsla. Its coataata. whCe tha baad plays a popular aoag. aaUtWd -Have Aaotber rnak." Oaa af tke koare, Daisy, Is very foad of lylag ass a cs ker back while drlaklng. Tks bears drttks consist of sweetened wstev, milk ar cAl Over oU. Ail. tie aalsaala are load of (Aft taraaec, SiaA few of tteas ok- Jeet to taking fhe latter. Indeed, some of and eaarla, sod to the them show s preference for it A couple of gallons of cod Urer oil Is consumed by the bears every week. It la a wonderful sight to watch the btara enter the arena. It Is almost one endless proceseloa of strolling wblto mnn onl-wiker thlncs be- first, others sldewavs. and. Indeed, In every Kin to look dangerous n ,t Mork knows loneelrsble position sod sttltude. It takes the rules, and never hl:es At the ssme nesrly twenty minutes for the whole of the time be has a knark of dian'rn his claws bears te reach their destination, one or rather d.-eply 1o'o ones clutfci-s, snj to more animals being on tbe chute tho whole prevent srrstchee Mr. lis ce.-, beck wears a of this time. Home so down quickly, By E.LLA WHEELER WILCOX. Oopyrlsht. iwm, rry Amencan-Journal Eiamlner. THIS Spring season hss been remark- Ths object of the ssorlnt!on. which Is aide for high winds. Those who live formed of dlsehled men formerly in tha on sescoasta realise the fact more service, Is stated In ths suLscrlpilua paper keenly than city dcnlaens. as follows: 'Wbeuever the combination of wind and "To olit.iln tbe mean of a modn,t living wares mtkeg splendid pictures for the eye for ouisulvcs and the ilcjx niiwu, nf oiir and orchestral music for the ear; one with members, to save them from the pn.rhni: any linaglnntlou must think of the peril arJd thereby maintain out honorable ttund which atteuds the Uvoa of thousands of tDg among our friends and In our com men whose occupation Is with the sea. munity. There Is comparatively little danger con- -Ve think we Ought to he entitled to nected with our great ocean liners; no more that miu-h oouflder.itl.in after f.inhfully thah with our railroad systems, and not as and honorably serving tho i.otion throucn much as Is t.) be eucoitntered In any anto- a long series of years, and we uope to have"' mobile drive with the average methaalc at tbo mwtMauce of every tn,e AiuHncn., i. the wheeL accolnpi.Hh r"- - But the sea Is traversed continual!, by pub TaHon",' r' b" mall vessels, craft whbb bring snd entry firemen's pension fund i.f i!ilj'..,,Y ot'i er very tblck leather waistcoat Erea with st era A spectacle tbst slways evokes this stout garment on he efs an occsslonal much epplanse IS Monk's wrestling bont ocratch. Monk turrs thn scale at 1.B00 with his Vainer. Monk is undoubtedly ponnds. snd, as wtlght frequently tells ta ths roost Intelligent ot the whole troupe, wrestling, the beer ofteo gels tke first iUntiy at bom. P tending oa h!a bind legs he wrestles wttk urow. nut s throw is got a victory, ana kis master In quite the approved faahloa. os tha scat the combatants push and shove Taking ap his poattloa In tbe centre of tha shoulders of one tou.h the sroonl. mat. ke greets his bumsa competitor with But tB " Interesting snd amusing . lick of his tonaTiS. ss Monk csbdM a. sr. feat, aad one that never fe!U to call for ... .k. inrW f .h.ki.. Tfc- sattck applsaao. Is h manner In which contest starts In real earnest, ths log kie atsaoat to put tbe at as oa his back, wDfle tke trainer eodearors ta pre vent the throw. The whole perfnrmanes Is very life like, Monk appearing ta pal kls heart Into It, every bow sal again giving as anlnoiia growl as he endeavors to get a good grip sad tr, tha streaga combs taata sway antfl ,Bto tU U' f wtr t10 So while others spread themselves right serosa the course, snd only reach ths bottom sftsr a mors or leas lengthy period. Once la the wster. however, tke snlmals are ln- the bears karo been tsiutht to s.xt te easts. TM animals ri.mo ap an lucilnea plate aatO they rear-k a platform some slity feet skova tbe gror.nd. Immediately Is front af theai hi the chut, and, to tell tks truth, tks bears de aot rare ainck a beet awntariag onto it. Once os tke rhrtte there at ae coming back, and It Is cer ts is ly very comical to watcb thesi By In the Shadow, look pals snd this. What's got Work! Frota mnmlng tin sight, snd onlv s one-hour reet" - ,:How long bsve yes beoa St ftf "I kegls t snorrew." Llk. The Art of Illustrating. "We rerelved tbs drawings safely, " said the paWtsker. i,wl," raesnndM tn enlrtailt II! as tral f.r ."I wis yoa 4 make your sstbor look st 'em or-aelotial!y as m writes tbs bora." Loulsrllie Cosrler-JoarsaL menhauJisc, sailing vessels Oa sa bciits . , , ieu m this business otLtha sea. and whaling ships still .very great cltv in toi.ii 'n '",I'" !" go forth foligerou. b.ttl. with tts mon- I. TUnZ.A tll.r'"t sters of th deep. 'Tbs llfesarlng service n lb.' M'H Hesldes these men. whoso work It Is to the German empire is innii,tii,-t i ii, llvs upon the ocesn at sli times of year snd wsy, and we should be able thrt ,,S .m! fsce all kinds of westber, there Is tha large contribution N,i system t,' ral.e 1 . organisation of life osvers composed of ths money to talre csre of tj,. "ih) erii.il brsveat, most daring and eell-aaerloclng members of our ssaoclstlon a'nd thi rVli men of tho world, for there la no other ele- wldoas snd orphans of our dead en nn meat so terrible to eueounter aa an angry "b'umnef T. Klm4all aeneral ...rlTl tendent of llfesjvlng servTcs ? WtlZ. It Is only now snd then w read of what ton. D. C. has been ssked to Id in Jk. these men do: but where one great ocra- Inst distribution of the fnnd fnnd. slon makes public their splendid courage "Our association has been orrsni.. in saving the Uvea Imperilled by soma no- without any capital, snd In order t ' table alios tlon of danger, there era bun- anr snout l.oop contribution hoxaa . dreds of occasions arlslug every week nTl ,,Kut L"- After we get aiiriel where thee heroes run the risk of death, the I JHiO eontrlbotlon lte, bees use af seeming danger to one unknown ""KJ ' " ,n ears of anrselves " individual, or ths possible peril of a amall 1 mT" receive na pension from the erafu Government, save that provlsloo is mart Tba eontlnnal strain under which the J AiMl!2mJh' trZ,T' tbrir ray ife sarare 11 v- T.rvsks don their crnstl- tlllV.tM.' tt, nf tatleBO. efttlmes In-fore bilddle life, sad f, .P!1!V J 'h. 'ary Is con- renders them anflt for other rocaUons, Va-I,,. v. ""Joer. Tkereforv. s..y effort to lneflt the.. . ' .'11 ,, Jat Tr to brava and noble men Is of Interest to IT-Il: Z". ' Hfe- every thiaklng cltlsen. and deserves anl- .L.'r ",hmu "wJZl, untrr .'-w f'5 tow.rdt'.bl..n,,r7Mu PenS".' no Waaagva ta tweak sway. In aa la st at they are at It agsla. This time Moak has got tria. compsaloa' arena g ths waist. Uses of Made grasp n,. aids of tb. e-h.t. sod ,r A w UpmBM mtfiru Tea ts ding 'here, only te le their kd -hen vhn u fnT him , ,m. a osspaala tkand-ra aa sraleet tbea Ism. wss cn.em-ived ty .ralacM, a younc WeyUad, Xo. 043 Wlo..e.e atrMt, Ml. --'aT penatoa waako. secretary f tho I4fa Ravara' Ne- everr maM e women with a pennr roast newest Assor'sUon. to ra's. money t. Uka prlda 4 Pleair In el ffw a fiiid to cave for nx-a dlashled fn ths t.a JTsil f. ... .... . ' - J"" T't' .biT 'T?'"' Vl t ilted tatea Ufa saving service, and for aktel or dime ar wnarter rtrea to n mr ak. Ilek or hi. pm. rtdis backward.. -4k.rs g. kA- iLadL-lioatk cils. " i Ti t"s uk. k'sU""" llTc1' U i0l"n - 1 ths trainers smi being tkrowa aroand tbe tram aova. aa reack tba water
