CorMfftt, 1D0H, by Amrteo Examiner, Great Jrttato High fa
4f
uua'UtJU.i jl Jiv
FJeviual of Extreme
Directoire Todes
. J A rr7n
,1 miM
H 1 JKK 1 '
Uorld of pa5r;io9.
j-lou tl?e 5ear;ty 5k'rt: f
tr; Uiptr J-Ia5 Devlbped
Ipto tr;e Split
5kirt of tr;
, moit pliable description, with ths front
bone omitted, for the figure drooping
In ng-u Mly, either fitting or standing, is
now the fashionable pole. As a natter of
fast, only a email percentage) of women
can afford to appear without tbelr "etaa,"
aa the English call them.
In America corset lores are modifying the
armor plate In which they have Insisted on
rncaafng the female form devlna for sons
time. While coraeta are etill built ex
tremely long over tbe hlpa and below the
waist both back and front the bones atop
short, an extension of coiitll, or of whatever
material tie corset la mnde, confining the
flesh below. One corset boned with whale
bone which b been given successive baths
of oil to render it pliable is having a
rogue Just now, as It gives a auppla out
line, while at the same time apparently re
ducing the wearer's alts.
With the aheath skirt Ita wearer may
have all the will In the world to wear petti
coats, but she basn't tbe room I Positively,
these skirts are so glove-fitting thnt the
presence of a petticoat would be instantly
detected In little unpresentable wrinkles
that would show through the tightly
stretched outer fabric So It"a tlghta for
her.
These she wears over her corsets to veil
tbe ending of the corset Romctlmes she
wears a single under garment of chiffon,
made princess fashion, so that there may be
no line of ending at the waist. French
women have, with their usual Ingenuity re-
WHAT an excitement! What a fuss I But of one tiling I'm certain It's a-
Legions of hands uplifted. Eyes, ing to bs a grand thing for tba eomla
ton. in pious horror, lest they opera choruses,
should view the awful sight A million For omi tm. w hsT lMr) md
rolces chanting disapproval and disgust. of f.,nionsbls rreneh women daring much
Id French. In English, In good down-right , flrwi 0f wonaerfol broc,ae, tIlfMlT
American. And all because of what? wonn iroona ch,ffon.cjad ,,,. of llmpi
Jest because woman, dear caprtclotis gupp,t Mtln 'CRreMlDK an(J ontUnlng the
woman, has dared to eliminate a few nn- who,. fltur. of MrtB o( 0, formln,
necessary yards of swathing material tbe f0stume decadent dress, it has been
from bsr skirt and. worse still, baa dared llk. and who will say It 1) misnamed?
to spilt tip that same skirt for balf a Lately, we learn with surprise, of
yard or so at the side. In the slang of Jress being made to lift at one side, dls-
to-day. "Ain't It awful. Mabel r closing a foot and ankle clad in satin.
Horrible! Shocking! I quite agree with Jewel-studded slipper and flesh-colored
Too (with smile behind my hand). But, stocking. After all. Its only one more
after all. whet could the poor girl do? snip of the scissors and behold, the
Like the woman of Do Manrler's story slashed skirt! Oh, no, It wouldn't be at
who tearfully said she'd like awfully to all surprising, viewing tbe recent trend
sit down, but her dressmaker said aht of fashion, to see smart Parlslennes going
conldn't, without the split In the sheath to ths limit of tho Dlrectolre style. But
skirt Its wearer would be condemned to u elect to do it, how well It will be A
definitely becomes a trifle monotonous one's h,, trlUl softened lights sod appropriate " Shocking the Conservative h'eo
frlends who lira in New York's Harlem background will the startling costumes bs pe cf Two World,
and travel in a perpendlcalar position worn- Their .jovements will be the re
each day, Tia tbe Subway, can testify. ,olt ot lon na carefal study before a B Petticoats Are Banished from the
to do not Jndga too harshly. mirror in the solitude of tbelr boudoirs. m p
That the Dlrectolre modes the sheath Tbelr W to- wi" carefully thought Wn$
skirt and ths slashed skirt worn over s OTlt- 'or wns modeled on these extreme her skirts. If he makes any pretence of
pfttlcoatleaa form are the most startling t'' require most delicsts wearing. keeping up with the fashions, end she Is
things in the way of fashions that bars But here! Imagine a figure In a roho impressing upon her home dressmaker that
been launched in many meone, there's no Dlrectolre rushing serosa In, front of a she can save enough from the skirt to cnt
denying. Bat have they been lanocbed? trolley or sprinting down a subway plat- out a sleeveless cost She reads with awe
Isn't It rather ease of Sags flying, bands fonn- The only possible setting would be of the bride who had nineteen pairs of
playing, the champsgne bottle smashed the marble palace cottages" and velvet "knickers." silks, satins and non:''". In
on the bow and the ship stuck fast on lawns of Newport. Who knows? Perhaps her trousseau nnd not a single solitary
tbe ways? One swallow doesn't make a we may so them there before tbe season frilly feminine petticoat Whst a pity!
Bnmmer, nor do three dressmaker's models Is over. But at the first opportunity she snesks off
parndln it a Trench race course create In the meantime Just the ordinary, and Invests In a pair of tights to wear
fashion. everyday woman la taking several reefs Is nnder her new satin evening dress. When
mm
turesque an object when properly carried,
has been seen. Now the Dlrectolre hst is
being exploited by fashionable nillllnsrs. It
Is tbe shape with which ve are familiar
from illustrations of the dress worn during
the time of Napoleon.
These hats are (jualnt things, of the poke
bonnet family, sdorned with three noddlnsr
plumes or stiff little bunchsa of posies and
always with long satin ribbons, which tls
under ons esr, or, more demurely, under
the chin. These hats are already being
worn by the younger members of the New
port smart set. sn! very charming they
look with garden piny frocks.
Parasols show t-normjusly tall sticks,
whlci la but another erldence of Dlrectolre
influence.
The Split Directoire Skirt Which C The Slashed Skirt Is Often Laced
Across with Cords, Which Are
Sometimes Caught with Beautiful
Buttoni.
D E .vrning Dresses Grow More Au
daciously Clinging."
the Ml! romeg In find her hnshand raises
his e.vfhrows nt the Item "tights." she
murmurs "itnthlne!" and he doesn't know
thst the fnlcful words ''ficoh colored" Re
ceded It
Now la the day of triumphs for the Iran
woman. A.h I've said before, it's reslly
viiU-nr tT have what Is commonly called a
"so.id figure " The slimmer, the mure
straight up nil flown yon s re the hotter.
Clothes shroad mefjest the nnfometej rig.
ure. If corsets are worn they ere of the
E Beautiful Fabrics Are Wound
Around the Figure. Supported on
the Shoulders by Slender Straps.
F Oil Soaked Corset Bones and
Skimpy "Knickers" Help to Con
struct the Figure of the Moment.
Heroes That Save Lives
Shall Those Who Risk Death to Rescue Others
Be Left to Bear Poverty in Their Old Age?
gsrdlng clothes. ' Invented tights bsylng
woven silts Just below the tnrn of the hips,
through Which a ribbon Is threaded, at
taching a petticoat of plnlted moussellne
de eip This underskirt appears In the
till of the Dlrectolre skirt, veiling tbe ankle
and Umlx
The Illustrations on this page give s very
good Ides nf this much t.Tlkcd of style of
drees The Accessories nf the period have
been tentative!) put forward for some time.
Tba tall Dlrectolre walking stick, ss Ble-
Seventy-Five Highly Accomplished Polar Bears Coming Here.
SEVENTY rtVFJ polar beers In one
rrr,-p!
Tiw Is wlthont Q'ietlon the seme
of s- -ai trslnsrf : Is t' ere test ' ag
greji'lan" 'f r-r'r.rrMriE w"d 1 eauts any
Be las ever got together. This glar.t of
groapa. too, will 1 r u In Amerl - In the
ear future. Their owner, Mr Wlillsm
Bagenbejck, a brother of the famous Mr
Carl Ilsgeahek, the reiebrsua animal
ealer of llanVorg, la now tr. ue? tiatlon
for aa extensive America a tour, and. at he
avodeetly declared, "It will be a surprise to
America, set only s regards number, bat
what tk animals eaa do."
Only these who save Mr. risgea
berk's srooderfal grooy of perfaralng polar
bewrs can grasp Wkat It inn as ss t sp
taelo sod also sppreelsto sotrethtng of tke
4tfflrsL.'ttc espvrteaced la gvttlog sack a
ollectloei tngetbee. Art nstoratlsts) or
agree tbst om af ths Sheet 41 IT lew It keasts
to trala sa4 ee of tbe asset marellsblo is"
tke awlar twar. By aataro tbey are sas
taVloas, a4 aJtknfk fairly alert ss cap.
tr alsssla, see aeeo too wllllag U
tkssre at taa kMdiag of
Te trata S slaglo speoiaea of tbe basU
fiJl eaewywklta croataras of tba rar Nona
as till I task. I&agiac, tbea, what It
speass to trsla a wbote ewaipeay f rm
tyra. It M tie rauat feat ts &m-
takes and sccompllebed 1 tbs whols his
tory of animal tralalog.
The animals perform fn s specially
erected arena surrounded by Polar scen
ery Indeed, tbe whols display la sa ss
Mhltton In Itself. The bears form pyra
mids and gTonps, climb Isdders. drive
about la carriages drawn by ponies with
monkeys sa outriders, draw sjledges con
tslnlu their rompaalona. drink oot Of bot
tles, and a host of other trlcka.
Mr. nagenbeck's most docile animal Is
White Baven, the somewhat Incongruous
sppollatloa which baa boon beetewed opoa
the elowa of the company, a vary clever
browa bear. He follows kta snSstar about
ths arena and generally acts tha comic sa
all gwod elnwca do. Uany of the bes
fcsve ten tsoght to drink est of bottle
by holding them to their months with their
fore feet It h moat a mowing and comical
to' watch so ennrmoos white bear, iseasor
Itg aeveo feet la leagth, snddenly alt oa
a aeat, grasp a stooe bottle la bis great
pa a. lift It to kta moatk sad drsla. Its
coataata. whCe tha baad plays a popular
aoag. aaUtWd -Have Aaotber rnak." Oaa
af tke koare, Daisy, Is very foad of lylag
ass a cs ker back while drlaklng. Tks
bears drttks consist of sweetened wstev,
milk ar cAl Over oU. Ail. tie aalsaala are
load of (Aft taraaec, SiaA few of tteas ok-
Jeet to taking fhe latter. Indeed, some of and eaarla, sod to the
them show s preference for it A couple
of gallons of cod Urer oil Is consumed
by the bears every week.
It la a wonderful sight to watch the
btara enter the arena. It Is almost one
endless proceseloa of strolling wblto mnn
onl-wiker thlncs be- first, others sldewavs. and. Indeed, In every
Kin to look dangerous n ,t Mork knows loneelrsble position sod sttltude. It takes
the rules, and never hl:es At the ssme nesrly twenty minutes for the whole of the
time be has a knark of dian'rn his claws bears te reach their destination, one or
rather d.-eply 1o'o ones clutfci-s, snj to more animals being on tbe chute tho whole
prevent srrstchee Mr. lis ce.-, beck wears a of this time. Home so down quickly,
By E.LLA WHEELER WILCOX.
Oopyrlsht. iwm, rry Amencan-Journal Eiamlner.
THIS Spring season hss been remark- Ths object of the ssorlnt!on. which Is
aide for high winds. Those who live formed of dlsehled men formerly in tha
on sescoasta realise the fact more service, Is stated In ths suLscrlpilua paper
keenly than city dcnlaens. as follows:
'Wbeuever the combination of wind and "To olit.iln tbe mean of a modn,t living
wares mtkeg splendid pictures for the eye for ouisulvcs and the ilcjx niiwu, nf oiir
and orchestral music for the ear; one with members, to save them from the pn.rhni:
any linaglnntlou must think of the peril arJd thereby maintain out honorable ttund
which atteuds the Uvoa of thousands of tDg among our friends and In our com
men whose occupation Is with the sea. munity.
There Is comparatively little danger con- -Ve think we Ought to he entitled to
nected with our great ocean liners; no more that miu-h oouflder.itl.in after f.inhfully
thah with our railroad systems, and not as and honorably serving tho i.otion throucn
much as Is t.) be eucoitntered In any anto- a long series of years, and we uope to have"'
mobile drive with the average methaalc at tbo mwtMauce of every tn,e AiuHncn., i.
the wheeL accolnpi.Hh r"- -
But the sea Is traversed continual!, by pub TaHon",' r' b"
mall vessels, craft whbb bring snd entry firemen's pension fund i.f i!ilj'..,,Y ot'i er
very tblck leather waistcoat Erea with
st era A spectacle tbst slways evokes this stout garment on he efs an occsslonal
much epplanse IS Monk's wrestling bont ocratch. Monk turrs thn scale at 1.B00
with his Vainer. Monk is undoubtedly ponnds. snd, as wtlght frequently tells ta
ths roost Intelligent ot the whole troupe, wrestling, the beer ofteo gels tke first iUntiy at bom.
P tending oa h!a bind legs he wrestles wttk urow. nut s throw is got a victory, ana
kis master In quite the approved faahloa. os tha scat the combatants push and shove
Taking ap his poattloa In tbe centre of tha shoulders of one tou.h the sroonl.
mat. ke greets his bumsa competitor with But tB " Interesting snd amusing
. lick of his tonaTiS. ss Monk csbdM a. sr. feat, aad one that never fe!U to call for
... .k. inrW f .h.ki.. Tfc- sattck applsaao. Is h manner In which
contest starts In real earnest, ths
log kie atsaoat to put tbe at as oa his
back, wDfle tke trainer eodearors ta pre
vent the throw.
The whole perfnrmanes Is very life
like, Monk appearing ta pal kls heart Into
It, every bow sal again giving as anlnoiia
growl as he endeavors to get a good grip
sad tr, tha streaga combs taata sway antfl ,Bto tU U' f wtr t10 So
while others spread themselves right serosa
the course, snd only reach ths bottom sftsr
a mors or leas lengthy period. Once la
the wster. however, tke snlmals are ln-
the bears karo been tsiutht to s.xt te
easts. TM animals ri.mo ap an lucilnea
plate aatO they rear-k a platform some
slity feet skova tbe gror.nd. Immediately
Is front af theai hi the chut, and, to tell
tks truth, tks bears de aot rare ainck
a beet awntariag onto it. Once os tke rhrtte
there at ae coming back, and It Is cer
ts is ly very comical to watcb thesi By
In the Shadow,
look pals snd this. What's got
Work! Frota mnmlng tin sight, snd
onlv s one-hour reet" -
,:How long bsve yes beoa St ftf
"I kegls t snorrew." Llk.
The Art of Illustrating.
"We rerelved tbs drawings safely, " said
the paWtsker.
i,wl," raesnndM tn enlrtailt II! as
tral f.r ."I wis yoa 4 make your sstbor
look st 'em or-aelotial!y as m writes tbs
bora." Loulsrllie Cosrler-JoarsaL
menhauJisc, sailing vessels Oa sa bciits . , , ieu m this
business otLtha sea. and whaling ships still .very great cltv in toi.ii 'n '",I'" !"
go forth foligerou. b.ttl. with tts mon- I. TUnZ.A tll.r'"t
sters of th deep. 'Tbs llfesarlng service n lb.' M'H
Hesldes these men. whoso work It Is to the German empire is innii,tii,-t i ii,
llvs upon the ocesn at sli times of year snd wsy, and we should be able thrt ,,S .m!
fsce all kinds of westber, there Is tha large contribution N,i system t,' ral.e 1 .
organisation of life osvers composed of ths money to talre csre of tj,. "ih) erii.il
brsveat, most daring and eell-aaerloclng members of our ssaoclstlon a'nd thi rVli
men of tho world, for there la no other ele- wldoas snd orphans of our dead en nn
meat so terrible to eueounter aa an angry "b'umnef T. Klm4all aeneral ...rlTl
tendent of llfesjvlng servTcs ? WtlZ.
It Is only now snd then w read of what ton. D. C. has been ssked to Id in Jk.
these men do: but where one great ocra- Inst distribution of the fnnd
fnnd.
slon makes public their splendid courage "Our association has been orrsni..
in saving the Uvea Imperilled by soma no- without any capital, snd In order t '
table alios tlon of danger, there era bun- anr snout l.oop contribution hoxaa .
dreds of occasions arlslug every week nTl ,,Kut L"- After we get aiiriel
where thee heroes run the risk of death, the I JHiO eontrlbotlon lte,
bees use af seeming danger to one unknown ""KJ ' " ,n ears of anrselves "
individual, or ths possible peril of a amall 1 mT" receive na pension from the
erafu Government, save that provlsloo is mart
Tba eontlnnal strain under which the J AiMl!2mJh' trZ,T' tbrir ray
ife sarare 11 v- T.rvsks don their crnstl- tlllV.tM.' tt, nf
tatleBO. efttlmes In-fore bilddle life, sad f, .P!1!V J 'h. 'ary Is con-
renders them anflt for other rocaUons, Va-I,,. v. ""Joer.
Tkereforv. s..y effort to lneflt the.. . ' .'11 ,, Jat Tr to
brava and noble men Is of Interest to IT-Il: Z". ' Hfe-
every thiaklng cltlsen. and deserves anl- .L.'r ",hmu "wJZl,
untrr .'-w f'5 tow.rdt'.bl..n,,r7Mu PenS".'
no Waaagva ta tweak sway. In aa la
st at they are at It agsla. This time Moak
has got tria. compsaloa' arena g ths waist.
Uses of Made
grasp n,. aids of tb. e-h.t. sod ,r A w UpmBM mtfiru Tea
ts ding 'here, only te le their kd -hen vhn u fnT him , ,m.
a osspaala tkand-ra aa sraleet tbea Ism. wss cn.em-ived ty .ralacM, a younc
WeyUad, Xo. 043 Wlo..e.e atrMt, Ml. --'aT penatoa
waako. secretary f tho I4fa Ravara' Ne- everr maM e women with a pennr
roast newest Assor'sUon. to ra's. money t. Uka prlda 4 Pleair In el
ffw a fiiid to cave for nx-a dlashled fn ths t.a JTsil f. ... .... . ' - J""
T't' .biT 'T?'"' Vl t ilted tatea Ufa saving service, and for aktel or dime ar wnarter rtrea to n
mr ak. Ilek or hi. pm. rtdis backward.. -4k.rs g. kA- iLadL-lioatk cils. " i Ti t"s uk. k'sU""" llTc1' U i0l"n - 1
ths trainers smi being tkrowa aroand tbe tram aova. aa reack tba water