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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 5, 1908)
Copyright, 1008, by American ttxtuntner. Great Drltalu Rights Beaet-TadV - a ' - t f- . Linens Are Trimmed Elab orately With Silks, Satins and Expensive Laces. Skirts of Colored Linen Worn With Lace Coats Dyed to Match. more than uuaily toft aod yelrety look in ff. If these things are a satisfaction to behold In the piece, how much more ad mirable are they when we see them skil fully combined with contrasting fabric and made up Into dresses or suits or that nondescript, but nevertheless most useful. Jumper frock. The Jumper dress of linen la to the fore again this year, and It has much to be said In Its fa tor. No wonder the majority of women refuse to discard It, although It has already been worn for a longer time than fashion usually permits. As If to make jompef " dresses more Irresistible, the designers have taken particular pains' with this year's model, and the result Is most satisfactory. Worn over delicate gulmpes of lawn and embroidery or lace, these dresses are charming; and cool, and adaptable Into the hasgaln. The particular point In which this year" . linen gowns and suits differ from other years is in their trimming. But we have become so aecuBtomed to seeing all klhda of fabrics combined that linen trimmed elaborately with satin or expensive lace does not seem at all Incongruous. From French designers we have learned the trick of using touches of black on colored gowns to give chic or bring out some particular point, and this season a costume without Its brilliant black note Is sel dom seen. It mny be only a minute neck bow of black velvet or satin, but It is there. Black velvet Is being used very effect-'' lvely on colored linens. Coats cut on the strictly tailored lines, which never really go out. let butterfly slejves and queer, floppy French coats come and as they may have cuffs, collars, pocket flaps, and Button of black velvet, andsSlrtai too, are often trimmed with velvec covered buttons to match. Of coune you've noticed what an Im portant part buttons are playing In tha j way, of trimming. From being a merely useful part of dress they have been raised LtXKN combined with silk, satin. tbe Paln of being most ornamental, velvet, luce or beautiful" hand Especially on linens are they found In nil embroidery we see tt everywhere their glory. Buttons covered with linen this Summer. and embroidered by hand In silk which And for once fashion goes hand in hand tone's, or contrasts with the dress are almost With common sense, for what could be necessity to a, well-regulated linen frock, more appropriate for wear 1n our Summer Ty run In lines down the front of the temperature than linens 7 There's nothing skirt, they transfix trimmings, but more fooler looking than crisp, snowy linen oft" are u'ed solely and quite frankly for when tha mercury begins to climb ambl- 1ect with no thought of use. tlously upward,' and for cooler days the Cretonne-covered buttons lend a quaint linens which are here thla year In all 'r to dresses of lli.cn and are a most up klnds of fascinating ana unusual colorings to-date trimming, for at last American are Just the thing. women seem to have accepted this upho- Thosa who visited the shops when the "'"J fabric as a possible dress trimming. Summer fabrics were first on view could Now we see parasols of cretonne in lovely not fall to be Impressed by the variety designs and charming colorings, cretonne and novelty of this year's linens. In the coats, hats swathed in cretonne, shopping first place the art of dyeing linens seemed h" made of cref.Vine, collars and cuffs of to bave taken several forward strides, cretonne, belts and. as I have said, but such soft and beautiful colors were every- tons all of this effective material. Fven where to be seen Queer, soft, faded-' oH"t evening gowns of net and l.-e War'' looking bines, and hluey-vloleta and all applied roses and other exaggerated large the raspberry and coral shades were there flowers cut from the material which we to delight an artist's eye, besides a boat formerly associated only with cottage fuml of more usual colors. " For smart tailored ton I But this Is only what French women suits there' were the Inevitable two-toned bave been doing for several seasons. 1 1,0 stripes, aa well aa the mora exclusive women on this side of the water have been hair line checks. Tbere were linens a trifle alow la making up their ulDda, which so well Imitated rajah silk that It that la all. needed tbe sense of touch to distinguish Filet la a ftfr-orlte lace for use in corn bctween tbe two. French jiuena were blnatlon with lloea- and, as ornamentation - SHOT 4 . . 'Mi I? ' 1 '-V'' 1 A Jumper Dress of I 'J ' rk " 'i I V Russet Colored .' nil x ' : - - H iste With I '7CW till ESkirt and The Embroid nen Bat- Skirt of Loose of Pale eroidercd The Ever-Useful Jumper Dress of Linen Here v in Nfw Models Vogue of Cretonne Increases. oiled en 'ornamentation la tbe rule Juit at present, this fs frequently darned In large design Id mercerized cottons, heavy ' silk or worsted. This Is sometime varied by the design of the lace being out lined by tbe thin silk ribbon used In rib bon work, threaded throngh the laee net." All these little touched make all the differ ence between the made-to-order gown and ' tbe ordinary, "ready mndo." And bere I where the girl with clever finger acores, for she can occupy her leisure moments In covering buttons or darning laces, which are afterward turped over to tbe dress maker Jo add a touch of luxury to her new gown. Coats of lace dyed to match skirts of linen are very smart and make a cos tume suitable for almost any formal day wrar. Sometimes the coat have strap pings or buttons of linen, but the skirts have never a touch of lace. And, by the way. short, plaited skirts seem at last on the point of resigning In favor of gored skirts, which are somewhat scant aa to hem and built on. very straight llnea all the way up. Rnsset brown and a dnll peacock bin arc two colors which many smart women have chosen for their linen gowns. Ture white Is not as popular as It has been, although It will always be worn to n cer tain extent, particularly In the coantry. Unbleached linens, made by the peasants of Italy on hand looms, and combined with some of the beautiful heavy Italian laces, mstke Ideal dresses, but only for women to whom dressmakers' bills are not a matter of much moment. The central figure of the page shows a very good type of Jumper dress. The str.-iliht, unbroken line from yoke to hem and the waist and sleeves cut In one are features of this season's models. The trlromlng around the yoke Js of heavily embroidered linen bands, which Is repeated on the sleeves. A narrow cordTng Joins the waist and skirt at the sides and back and some cleverly cut darts reduce the fullness at the waist line. Buttons formed Of cordlngs of the linen colled around and around trim the waist and skirt Of very different effect Is the figure shown In the sketch lettered "B." A plaited skirt of linen la worn .with a draped waist of embroidered linen batiste of exactly the snme shade. This would be Hh excellent dnslen for a slight figure, for It is very soft and graceful. Linen hands trim the front and swnthe the waist One of the woven braid chains which com plete many of the better linen gowns la criss-crossed down the front, tying and Th, Tear 19 '"deed a toT tl f1rl hanging In long ends. The fulness of the wltn " limited dress allowance, for short eleeves is particularly well graduated and Iontb of materials picked up on bargain does not look at all clumsy, a sleeves counters can bo comviutj with other ma made In this way are sometimes apt to do. trials with wauderful sueceaa. The Jurnp- iiraming aone in nne sue soutnen " "' " "" -"- which last year characterised many of the !jav.e larSe st(K'k dresses, allowing, a ..!. .,, fc. .fci. lt does, almost unlimited variation lu tha more exclusive model has tbi. season way of yoke and sleeveH, found Its way to the linen gowna sold In Then material if low price are for- department stores, and thu Da lost much "nately In high Xavor cotton voiles of of Its desirability. However, little or big J"? . ' V ,L. r , , V" ,7 a mm Wi i m - I KMM I v k abu cv i r nam v m i i .i IU I M 1 at K I IB 11 1 f I IB .11 IIM m III II I I all 111 " 111 I X 'I ' 1 lit I , a l i i l.ll ill l ouiions uiaou oi ivuiiL-ua urmu pui on cot, and dlmltle nod silk muslins atn with cord simulating a buttonhole I a marked astonishingly low. With a lltt'n trimmluir much liked: acaln the erase for ":t nd care and a modest expenditure b.uttous, you see. of cash there Is no excuse for the old familiar cry of 'Nothing to wear." Earning Their Dowries So Men N American girl 1 organlalna; a Dot extravagant and that It coi A Society. Believing that tbe French system of providing; a girl with a dowry encourages matrimony, an Institution whose popularity la at least not growing la the United States, ahe baa formed a club of working girl who intend to earn their own dot. MUi Albla Nowiin. Brown has acquired aa arr of land at Northport secluded Sum mer resort on the khore of Long Island Sounl. Tbe joung wumeD who compoa the Dot N.wl.-i r will erect a house on the ground and l.t tiirr for the Kummer month at Irst, p. rl'aps iLroughout the year, until well, uttlt the rt t hn been provided and tbey are marr; d. l ite weddings will tak place f-oa th- hot l'nus, and the dot Itself win be paid mil to tbe ycung man who wins tbe trf'.de a;j with ber enough money to begin tojMk';'ng In a m j'1et. comfort way. ! is t'.r most prsrtlrable of any the pW.ni to make marrlnge easier time wLen there la n apptlltng indifference to tt, especially on tbe part of young men, taluks tbe prrl(Vnt or tbe lxt Can Afford to Marry Them. ,u - - were a acrupulous In adhering to ran raise berrle, tBll of tn. ..Cw,e.. ,n, wo provide honey, mushrooma k - Two Paris Beauties in a Real Duel Just Like Men P' 'r mOD C T. : tn 1ta . n uKIm, V, ! ' th. C" . . i y. i t . . . i r n.i . - l, r - A th mil n a mn mn trn " i"",-ut, " ,,iiuc i .in iu wiiu .Minn imiriniie m. iiuiun. ui bii rwnuica nu keeDlne " house- Fiench father and mother teach it eoon- Boston, and Miss I.oulse Gardner Phillip, good price. We , ":ilf m uie present with a view to the of Philadelphia, and other friends. I have tables. We can provide honey . "r" no an niflK,9 ucb excuse comfort of the future. Incorporated the Dot Boclety. Tbere will and flowers for tbe market Each girl can rTJ1D'- 'ecaue there is r,.n. When I came to New Tork from Ohio he twenty elrls in the socletv. We have An th.r which she ran do best One of the on. tvery young girl of marrlaga;1e thre ge nas tier dowry, evn thninrh ,n,n:i ERnAPS the triumphant march of cases and dipped them In an untl-septla the "Suffragettes" In JLondon Is re- solution, sponsible; at any rate, "affairs cf Then, sword lu hand, the two women honor" between ladle In Parle are grow- faced each other. Both were apparently leg more serlou and ceremonious. calm, but the bitterness between them w;i The latest sensation la the French cap- eay to be seen. They glanced coMly at Ital la a duel between two women, who each other, but struck each other's guar! the de- tharply as the word to bcglu was given by contest- M- del Tiat. ants of the sterner seg who ever crossed rot the first two minutes neither gave sword. A bit of gossip led to this san- ground. The two women went it eacli iu i'i-s irom ti.nio oe iwenrr triris in me socieiv. we nare An tnsr w-nicn sne can ao dfbu xu w . - .. , . , . . ... 0 ..." . . . cv, gum outcome lor ic was curriea on unru liirnsriy nuu uaa ro oe separates ac Jin.n , ' nK!,t nff,be f "mU "l DUmr t0 h.V girl embroider, well and swiftly. Sb e can wovnM prBt of ,ne p,r, f , flrst 8h. ha. enough "laid by" to b,-g. hrt., nine a .r 1 , .. .1 . . ' . .L t.. s.i on n. ver-nu-, .h. Here are the "artie!.. of the duello" engagement. During the second period of keeping. French parent. be!u ..,. week an t,. . . . r . ' 'J.1' , ' . , mDr.0,,cr " 7" 1 " . " they were drawn op by tbe aecond. two n:lniite It wu, pretty noc the same. their daughter-, dot as soon . .... Z , ',:.' ' ! " vut yal'' " ProT,ae w" coul-l earn m a nummer u.u ,nd at.n.d u th- principal.: born. By the time she 1 I- v . , ,i , .. , "VJ ui, m air upiuiuu, American parents save their dowries ahonld do, bat they are hi French parent, because they wise than but one thing Indulge a work. president of the lot oucieu woo cere antujos tier plan. By ALBIA NOWLIN BROWN. ' We bare or gin lied the Hot Society to apply what tbe writers of otl: ami lets ybUaathropic societies ityi "a g-eat cd growing p-ed." Tbere r fr fewer mrrUge tbla gen- en km uaa ut. to the aett if this ipt rootk which seems Independext of any "al"' i""" rrreanai coDtlnob. -olttloB or motive power on the airt of fpim cause fteen iloMars a socjatlcm unwieldy. .mhrnlilrr all dv. Think how these girls roi.ij !,.,,e to ,lo Our p4rpooi to provide way and mnlil earn in a Summer. Cue glrL a atenog- SL'p-iort theff.selws. n:;d Pcrl.ans means f.ir B lr1 In earn hr (mm Ant It m.Voa oirellvnt conies eighteen veari contribute a MtMo n ., .t. i;i . r. it ck i, urn a aTeat deal ....... - - - v n.i L"JI I Mi IUV U C UU ID ML 111 lllll 11IJIT1R HI i,U 1U- Q'l UtOja. ti. v., Z ip only succeeded In sarlng family. If (hey at :.-.,, they m8t port Long Island. There are a dozen waye. for the common fund. Any extra room, rrj. i. . e lflve fl sn"g sura pay tlielr board, brcau" tbrir parints need I already have an order from a dealer we may have we could fill with for ber beginning a a home maker. That the money. Beeina- that the. nn, 1nr n .v. ..,k ..... Tk. .t,u . hn n hn.rd with ua for our I saw t.iat ttirrs was same rlenler his vlnn na mn nrdof fur Summer va"nt!in We Would keep no to tio, irn ftiem by extra twenty chickens a week We can raise servants. The girls could take turn at duckathe Long IilanJ duckling known to managing tbe house and dulng the house- - . - -. --.r--w--u,-l..-. - u-.- n work. The fum of the earrings of Dot Houe would be plsccd la vmg naeas where It would draw four net" vert InteMt which, of course, each il month would be compounded. w . By t lie time the" first girl married we would have the amount of b'r dot ready, and o for the seconl Of eonrae the article, of Incorporation will require that the 1r' be fair and reaoiiBhi ta thelf demnd. W would prefer tbt the flrU who Join the eociety be not ergs red, er at Inst that the time of tbe weddlaf ban ot yet been set. And w tb'nk we will mak a provition tht ao girl shall be married fof tlx month or tt lt a carter after the of tbe Dot Home, We thiai we tbe other and neither :;bof King Edward the VII. as a Ball Room Expert By a A By a Member OT tne KOyai Mouse Did. new and formality ar strlrfy barred. Put 8 befits a man wtio ha literally "e Mng finds t.'.e stntp r,t-r t.-rin danced from hi babyhood and has '3d when one considers Ms hnppy nstnre, danced at more bajla than "soy other lr l not to he w, nierert t 11 ,,. si.il man In tbe world, the King-of England I t u ercrytbliig U done "just s," and tin- an exquisite aancer. cer sjch rlr With tbe King It la not only training and good teaching, bur Heredity which make him excel a a dancer. The great everthe!(t, although the King love QrhsB erelf w highly aecompl'shed ''trfrg ,nd in.P, t0 B,aDinn blmsclf to daacef, and moved with that gliding, wsy- eojy-nert of tbe moment, yet be par- ,v ; j-.. Uiree? unititjcea the dancing nstur- pattakes of the prevailing stlffcess. Very Scrvere. A cable dNpateb. describing yonng Jay (iniild tennis victory In England, say: ' His railroad service was especially se vere. Persons who traveried over the Erie roud a gescratloB ago win be apt ta ae '.n this the influence of heredity. Judge. SJf -Sustaining. .... Mrs. T'oB tto new maid) Rut Mary, there are only two in the family. Mr. Duff and myse.f. Wby bave you set place for thwrwwSrt, practically Dos. .v v,U tn. dtBt.. Klng Edw.rd dances Ml. bU atrog'y. and i-moat sternly, seu'hl. f,c cook h'.rToM nr. TTosTa r.n.'ayer' will do Inck-uIabJe foM. We know we waata to ve la a country wlsere marriage mother, dot when he flnda a partner t ) aclat a la a jest ana aeaa w woH be fcts taete be tborooghly revets in t'.e ieiry re-rertlng ta Mragery. If any of tt ehould -f .Bot.oti. Qre ta lap ev.r, It e.- epos tbat gee- , jt it rrry trr.'-h to tte err!.: of the KIr.g ersUott, wkli halrod ola tnea tai whims, that ale accession "to the dlgalty of tbe we ereoM be ashaaaod that a er Tooth throne ha tr.aJe do difference to tbe ccno we h4 doei aothtng to prevMit seek a try (.etlexma style be keeps t ndrlng etate. I at ea do tot propose te have Thr sots' ball at Par.drlngham iirtl rue for ahaae. For year I have injaiea-ortal enstom. and the Kinr and kceaj etwdytag this eehjeet, 1 tad that ail Qar. alway. eem te enjoy It Tie King woaaaal a gVUah ;Una are wliV ta, wUb the housekeeper aod the tag te aaarry. Qeeen takes the betier. and tbe fan oouv I hsv aje tr teres t ta attaaly weenie a anea. I eote. slDglng and roillcknse the bouse, Harper's Weekly. rowjyifm In the coarse of square dances like !h, lasers Jy. "Luciy" One. Of -c-rr'.e. nrany people tMrk It bit "We, get t-iirse sad rea, i Id the at- thsc 1f the ftn of tbe thing to whirl tendant at the ' raaatle aaylnn to tbe tie f off their feet, aod do all aorta of visitor, aod opened the door te the Iret trs-1 "M; gs during tb ladles' efcala and ceil. te rest, bat the Ring llkea all these Inside was a mil sitting aa a .tool acd :'.'-r to be kept Itiiia the boo ads of grlr vscsctly at the wall. gt-l art "Rid atory. ' said the attendant : rati saake the Dot lod.tr achieve IU per- poee of giving a dowry to the asember of It who aaarry. Persoaally I doa t expect to wed. i Perk ape ether girts will oot d.v . Bat tbei majority ef them susdoubtediy win. We wlU tlv ataply. eat pialav bst good food, wear alanle clothln. beaUh ail the Boa-eent1ala. lol only wfll we give ear seosrer whe "fce In consequence of a dispute growing out of matters absolutely confidential. Mile, de Namlas sent ber seconds, ajmes de S and D to Mmc. Andree d'Alaia to ask an apology or satisfaction from her by tecourse to arms. S Mme d'Alara, after consulting with her representatives, Mme. L and K , refused to retract anything. A duel was thereupon decided upon sfter a conference among tbe four sec onds. The following condition were streod upon for tbe duel: 1 Mile, de Namia. la recognised to he tbe offended party. 2 The weapon chosen la the regular Una duelling rapier. I 9lereles chemisettes, light shoes and glove at will are the restric tion as to clothing. 4 A ipace of 15 metres fl ysrd.l behind each contestant la allowed and gmnnd gained In any onslaught Is allowed To the advantage of the one gaining It. Each onslaught Is to last two mln atee, with twe-blaat Utervala of rest "Clinches" are forblddea aa well the -vs. of tbe free ajtv. f The duel eball ceaae enoa the or der of the eerooda, following their eor, raits tM with the physiciaas la arteodaer. t Ry coanmoa agreeasent M. del Prat I rbnee te direct the doel. Which hall take alece la the norsfclrta of I ef is, tee St. US of May. liroa. These msee were rigidly ea forced by neither wounding giving ground. The third bout with the sword proved decisive. Mile, de Namlas "rioflied" her antagonist and the latter crlel out th.-.t she was "touched." Iier second ran 1:1 to her and she fell Into their arms. Mme, d'Alaia had been wounded In tbe right shonlder. Physicians eiamlned (be wona'' ... . iiinuuucfii ii net uiiiigerous, but Mme. d'Aiaxa was too weak to go on with the duel. Nevertheless, Mme d'Alasn refused to make any apology to Mile, de Namlas and the Later left tbe Gold, compelled to ac cept as sufficient satisfaction tier having wounded ber adversary. The result of tha duel was tta'ed in a paper .drawn, up and signed by tbe lecouda aud by the phj-iU-clana Every row and then tbe Joy of life In Parle Is enhanced by one of these 'affairs of honor" between fair ladles. Less than year ago two pretty and popular actreseesr-MHe. VI 1ml du Barrl and Mile. Henee de la Chapelle fought with rapier hrtnM tha y ..a , n , - ... ... .... ,ir. uau puojidy stated that tbe former had a figure that reeembled asns-sge tied roe ad tbe middle. . Each ef the duelling ladle wore a abort rtlrt and a gassy shirt, waist so thin that the palpitating Bean beneath cou'U be seen. After few desperate une. on .... eld. Mil, da Barrt perceived a pink spot ever the heart -of her adversary B!ooo"l Mile., d la Chanell. was hr . BMj ifirl I Tai ttnv IB lscm araa 1 n lna wllj a r. ri Itnl tat anas rieol www a luw w iivhi imi , - - - - ... wvrl9mv9 aa v - -- - pia 'K" invre sinr-a I ha W Fond thnogh be is of daadog. tbe King another aa, aod he toat hid reaee frea worries a boat bvatbeld peBeea wlU 4aH took . aa arraaged. la the Part 5,r klll'l ,tn lh col a ever forget, the eomfort ef his neeta. sad grift" T. . anaka their cbaarea for fcarotaeea gro'r. a, rahaseed. at TUt d Avrar. ashtah !.I7jf 'B'B " b,rrt falated abe I. hojkh 'rU. 0e r.a te!l at a It la po-M ht. Indeed probaMe tt.t 1. to, Cy cy B(a0a above giving hi. per- JZffl $ 4 fgS , IU g?f TV. e.t.el etrM. ef Ung blU. aad , Htk, and It waa spirited ote. Sea eoucleaMee. wa.tored the, that tVy doat , wUh to atarry. Tbe the K'.e Myoy the eerr.ets ln bertvr wr,ta' errrsfghl to xarh dftai: a the dec l,.te. Tl li ceil .s tliick'y rdded. and p-M farir re 4 -- The rystttn rrv4 la the' port -ewe4 tot ach , lx-r ifwV: or-. t-?Tt.!e Era tli5y w: "k yejjg stH whe thaa a Pat lt Of ewerse. infonrial oration aod more especially the aupner the ri.a wiikiw was stsrk, stsring nd. ' a rv rsiTel. IrTliatlna. Ursl trietr aawde enortly after daw. jfned d Jba i the wbo party, prlnc., , , . - .- ,v.t iwa j..- .1 . - . ... , . . . . . . ' . . , ho js tkteT" Inaiired tbe visiter. . T . . . , . . 7 bv trlrpe'd etf tbeir rts eed wsle P , evo 1 gad ajrgeeoa. adloarned te r" ' b-eBg botwst. thai the daace at a ewutry hewe ia bewt ef all. for The K lag's &rt(e ti c4ahtedly rh." niettM tne sttexUat. "thla T- t-raageBt feyw. and thea that .J,1, r . nH. .0,iwnre, wane tee rests. r. at to, tie gayest aad moat ';'- - t fcautx 1 t-t iicSf mn thtrt iw tVm&a ige4her. b gtLMr. tha.araJU cetUlea. : : . U Us other Btaa." Xlt-Eiu. ' orc ctrartA , ' the g-hyaiaas too tbe raptra Iroa thw naicahle breakfast U Ueir LUeUmea. ,
