Copyright, 1008, by American ttxtuntner. Great Drltalu Rights Beaet-TadV
-
a ' -
t f-
. Linens Are Trimmed Elab
orately With Silks, Satins
and Expensive Laces.
Skirts of Colored Linen
Worn With
Lace Coats
Dyed to
Match.
more than uuaily toft aod yelrety look
in ff.
If these things are a satisfaction to
behold In the piece, how much more ad
mirable are they when we see them skil
fully combined with contrasting fabric
and made up Into dresses or suits or
that nondescript, but nevertheless most
useful. Jumper frock.
The Jumper dress of linen la to the fore
again this year, and It has much to be
said In Its fa tor. No wonder the majority
of women refuse to discard It, although It
has already been worn for a longer time
than fashion usually permits. As If to
make jompef " dresses more Irresistible,
the designers have taken particular pains'
with this year's model, and the result Is
most satisfactory. Worn over delicate
gulmpes of lawn and embroidery or lace,
these dresses are charming; and cool, and
adaptable Into the hasgaln.
The particular point In which this year" .
linen gowns and suits differ from other
years is in their trimming. But we have
become so aecuBtomed to seeing all klhda
of fabrics combined that linen trimmed
elaborately with satin or expensive lace
does not seem at all Incongruous. From
French designers we have learned the
trick of using touches of black on colored
gowns to give chic or bring out some
particular point, and this season a costume
without Its brilliant black note Is sel
dom seen. It mny be only a minute neck
bow of black velvet or satin, but It is
there.
Black velvet Is being used very effect-''
lvely on colored linens. Coats cut on
the strictly tailored lines, which never
really go out. let butterfly slejves and
queer, floppy French coats come and as
they may have cuffs, collars, pocket flaps,
and Button of black velvet, andsSlrtai
too, are often trimmed with velvec covered
buttons to match.
Of coune you've noticed what an Im
portant part buttons are playing In tha j
way, of trimming. From being a merely
useful part of dress they have been raised
LtXKN combined with silk, satin. tbe Paln of being most ornamental,
velvet, luce or beautiful" hand Especially on linens are they found In nil
embroidery we see tt everywhere their glory. Buttons covered with linen
this Summer. and embroidered by hand In silk which
And for once fashion goes hand in hand tone's, or contrasts with the dress are almost
With common sense, for what could be necessity to a, well-regulated linen frock,
more appropriate for wear 1n our Summer Ty run In lines down the front of the
temperature than linens 7 There's nothing skirt, they transfix trimmings, but more
fooler looking than crisp, snowy linen oft" are u'ed solely and quite frankly for
when tha mercury begins to climb ambl- 1ect with no thought of use.
tlously upward,' and for cooler days the Cretonne-covered buttons lend a quaint
linens which are here thla year In all 'r to dresses of lli.cn and are a most up
klnds of fascinating ana unusual colorings to-date trimming, for at last American
are Just the thing. women seem to have accepted this upho-
Thosa who visited the shops when the "'"J fabric as a possible dress trimming.
Summer fabrics were first on view could Now we see parasols of cretonne in lovely
not fall to be Impressed by the variety designs and charming colorings, cretonne
and novelty of this year's linens. In the coats, hats swathed in cretonne, shopping
first place the art of dyeing linens seemed h" made of cref.Vine, collars and cuffs of
to bave taken several forward strides, cretonne, belts and. as I have said, but
such soft and beautiful colors were every- tons all of this effective material. Fven
where to be seen Queer, soft, faded-' oH"t evening gowns of net and l.-e War''
looking bines, and hluey-vloleta and all applied roses and other exaggerated large
the raspberry and coral shades were there flowers cut from the material which we
to delight an artist's eye, besides a boat formerly associated only with cottage fuml
of more usual colors. " For smart tailored ton I But this Is only what French women
suits there' were the Inevitable two-toned bave been doing for several seasons. 1 1,0
stripes, aa well aa the mora exclusive women on this side of the water have been
hair line checks. Tbere were linens a trifle alow la making up their ulDda,
which so well Imitated rajah silk that It that la all.
needed tbe sense of touch to distinguish Filet la a ftfr-orlte lace for use in corn
bctween tbe two. French jiuena were blnatlon with lloea- and, as ornamentation
- SHOT
4 . . 'Mi
I? ' 1 '-V'' 1 A Jumper Dress of
I 'J ' rk " 'i I V Russet Colored
.' nil x ' : - - H iste With
I '7CW till ESkirt and
The
Embroid
nen Bat-
Skirt of
Loose
of Pale
eroidercd
The Ever-Useful Jumper
Dress of Linen Here v
in Nfw Models
Vogue of Cretonne
Increases.
oiled en 'ornamentation la tbe rule Juit
at present, this fs frequently darned In
large design Id mercerized cottons, heavy
' silk or worsted. This Is sometime
varied by the design of the lace being out
lined by tbe thin silk ribbon used In rib
bon work, threaded throngh the laee net."
All these little touched make all the differ
ence between the made-to-order gown and
' tbe ordinary, "ready mndo." And bere I
where the girl with clever finger acores,
for she can occupy her leisure moments In
covering buttons or darning laces, which
are afterward turped over to tbe dress
maker Jo add a touch of luxury to her
new gown.
Coats of lace dyed to match skirts of
linen are very smart and make a cos
tume suitable for almost any formal day
wrar. Sometimes the coat have strap
pings or buttons of linen, but the skirts
have never a touch of lace. And, by the
way. short, plaited skirts seem at last
on the point of resigning In favor of gored
skirts, which are somewhat scant aa to
hem and built on. very straight llnea all
the way up.
Rnsset brown and a dnll peacock bin
arc two colors which many smart women
have chosen for their linen gowns. Ture
white Is not as popular as It has been,
although It will always be worn to n cer
tain extent, particularly In the coantry.
Unbleached linens, made by the peasants
of Italy on hand looms, and combined
with some of the beautiful heavy Italian
laces, mstke Ideal dresses, but only for
women to whom dressmakers' bills are
not a matter of much moment.
The central figure of the page shows a
very good type of Jumper dress. The
str.-iliht, unbroken line from yoke to hem
and the waist and sleeves cut In one are
features of this season's models. The
trlromlng around the yoke Js of heavily
embroidered linen bands, which Is repeated
on the sleeves. A narrow cordTng Joins
the waist and skirt at the sides and back
and some cleverly cut darts reduce the
fullness at the waist line. Buttons formed
Of cordlngs of the linen colled around and
around trim the waist and skirt
Of very different effect Is the figure
shown In the sketch lettered "B." A
plaited skirt of linen la worn .with a
draped waist of embroidered linen batiste
of exactly the snme shade. This would
be Hh excellent dnslen for a slight figure,
for It is very soft and graceful. Linen
hands trim the front and swnthe the waist
One of the woven braid chains which com
plete many of the better linen gowns la
criss-crossed down the front, tying and Th, Tear 19 '"deed a toT tl f1rl
hanging In long ends. The fulness of the wltn " limited dress allowance, for short
eleeves is particularly well graduated and Iontb of materials picked up on bargain
does not look at all clumsy, a sleeves counters can bo comviutj with other ma
made In this way are sometimes apt to do. trials with wauderful sueceaa. The Jurnp-
iiraming aone in nne sue soutnen " "' " "" -"-
which last year characterised many of the !jav.e larSe st(K'k dresses, allowing, a
..!. .,, fc. .fci. lt does, almost unlimited variation lu tha
more exclusive model has tbi. season way of yoke and sleeveH,
found Its way to the linen gowna sold In Then material if low price are for-
department stores, and thu Da lost much "nately In high Xavor cotton voiles of
of Its desirability. However, little or big J"? . ' V ,L. r , , V" ,7
a mm Wi i m -
I KMM I v k
abu cv i r
nam v m i i .i
IU I M 1 at K I IB 11 1
f I IB .11 IIM m III II
I I all 111 " 111 I
X 'I ' 1 lit I
, a l i i l.ll ill l
ouiions uiaou oi ivuiiL-ua urmu pui on cot, and dlmltle nod silk muslins atn
with cord simulating a buttonhole I a marked astonishingly low. With a lltt'n
trimmluir much liked: acaln the erase for ":t nd care and a modest expenditure
b.uttous, you see.
of cash there Is no excuse for the old
familiar cry of 'Nothing to wear."
Earning Their Dowries So Men
N American girl 1 organlalna; a Dot extravagant and that It coi
A Society. Believing that tbe French
system of providing; a girl with a
dowry encourages matrimony, an Institution
whose popularity la at least not growing la
the United States, ahe baa formed a club
of working girl who intend to earn their
own dot.
MUi Albla Nowiin. Brown has acquired aa
arr of land at Northport secluded Sum
mer resort on the khore of Long Island
Sounl. Tbe joung wumeD who compoa the
Dot N.wl.-i r will erect a house on the ground
and l.t tiirr for the Kummer month at
Irst, p. rl'aps iLroughout the year, until
well, uttlt the rt t hn been provided and
tbey are marr; d. l ite weddings will tak
place f-oa th- hot l'nus, and the dot Itself
win be paid mil to tbe ycung man who wins
tbe trf'.de a;j with ber enough money to
begin tojMk';'ng In a m j'1et. comfort
way. ! is t'.r most prsrtlrable of any
the pW.ni to make marrlnge easier
time wLen there la n apptlltng indifference
to tt, especially on tbe part of young men,
taluks tbe prrl(Vnt or tbe lxt
Can Afford to Marry Them.
,u - - were a acrupulous In adhering to
ran raise berrle, tBll of tn. ..Cw,e.. ,n, wo
provide honey, mushrooma k -
Two Paris Beauties in a
Real Duel Just Like Men
P'
'r mOD C T. : tn 1ta . n uKIm, V, ! ' th. C" . . i y. i t . . . i r n.i . - l, r - A
th mil n a mn mn trn " i"",-ut, " ,,iiuc i .in iu wiiu .Minn imiriniie m. iiuiun. ui bii rwnuica nu
keeDlne " house- Fiench father and mother teach it eoon- Boston, and Miss I.oulse Gardner Phillip, good price. We
, ":ilf m uie present with a view to the of Philadelphia, and other friends. I have tables. We can provide honey
. "r" no an niflK,9 ucb excuse comfort of the future. Incorporated the Dot Boclety. Tbere will and flowers for tbe market Each girl can
rTJ1D'- 'ecaue there is r,.n. When I came to New Tork from Ohio he twenty elrls in the socletv. We have An th.r which she ran do best One of the
on. tvery young girl of marrlaga;1e thre
ge nas tier dowry, evn thninrh ,n,n:i
ERnAPS the triumphant march of cases and dipped them In an untl-septla
the "Suffragettes" In JLondon Is re- solution,
sponsible; at any rate, "affairs cf Then, sword lu hand, the two women
honor" between ladle In Parle are grow- faced each other. Both were apparently
leg more serlou and ceremonious. calm, but the bitterness between them w;i
The latest sensation la the French cap- eay to be seen. They glanced coMly at
Ital la a duel between two women, who each other, but struck each other's guar!
the de- tharply as the word to bcglu was given by
contest- M- del Tiat.
ants of the sterner seg who ever crossed rot the first two minutes neither gave
sword. A bit of gossip led to this san- ground. The two women went it eacli
iu i'i-s irom ti.nio oe iwenrr triris in me socieiv. we nare An tnsr w-nicn sne can ao dfbu xu w . - .. , . , . . ...
0 ..." . . . cv, gum outcome lor ic was curriea on unru liirnsriy nuu uaa ro oe separates ac
Jin.n , ' nK!,t nff,be f "mU "l DUmr t0 h.V girl embroider, well and swiftly. Sb e can wovnM prBt of ,ne p,r, f , flrst
8h. ha. enough "laid by" to b,-g. hrt., nine a .r 1 , .. .1 . . ' . .L t.. s.i on n. ver-nu-, .h. Here are the "artie!.. of the duello" engagement. During the second period of
keeping. French parent. be!u ..,. week an t,. . . . r . ' 'J.1' , ' . , mDr.0,,cr " 7" 1 " . " they were drawn op by tbe aecond. two n:lniite It wu, pretty noc the same.
their daughter-, dot as soon . .... Z , ',:.' ' ! " vut yal'' " ProT,ae w" coul-l earn m a nummer u.u ,nd at.n.d u th- principal.:
born. By the time she 1
I- v . , ,i , .. , "VJ
ui, m air upiuiuu, American parents save their dowries
ahonld do, bat they are hi
French parent, because
they
wise than but one thing
Indulge a work.
president of the lot oucieu
woo cere antujos tier plan.
By ALBIA NOWLIN BROWN.
' We bare or gin lied the Hot Society to
apply what tbe writers of otl: ami lets
ybUaathropic societies ityi "a g-eat cd
growing p-ed."
Tbere r fr fewer mrrUge tbla gen-
en km uaa ut. to the aett if this ipt rootk which seems Independext of any
"al"' i""" rrreanai coDtlnob. -olttloB or motive power on the airt of
fpim cause
fteen iloMars a socjatlcm unwieldy. .mhrnlilrr all dv. Think how
these girls roi.ij !,.,,e to ,lo Our p4rpooi to provide way and mnlil earn in a Summer. Cue glrL a atenog-
SL'p-iort theff.selws. n:;d Pcrl.ans means f.ir B lr1 In earn hr (mm Ant It m.Voa oirellvnt conies
eighteen veari contribute a MtMo n ., .t. i;i . r. it ck i, urn a aTeat deal
....... - - - v n.i L"JI I Mi IUV U C UU ID ML 111 lllll 11IJIT1R HI i,U 1U- Q'l UtOja. ti. v.,
Z ip only succeeded In sarlng family. If (hey at :.-.,, they m8t port Long Island. There are a dozen waye. for the common fund. Any extra room,
rrj. i. . e lflve fl sn"g sura pay tlielr board, brcau" tbrir parints need I already have an order from a dealer we may have we could fill with
for ber beginning a a home maker. That the money. Beeina- that the. nn, 1nr n .v. ..,k ..... Tk. .t,u . hn n hn.rd with ua for our
I saw t.iat ttirrs was same rlenler his vlnn na mn nrdof fur Summer va"nt!in We Would keep no
to tio, irn ftiem by extra twenty chickens a week We can raise servants. The girls could take turn at
duckathe Long IilanJ duckling known to managing tbe house and dulng the house-
- . - -. --.r--w--u,-l..-. - u-.- n work. The fum of the earrings of Dot
Houe would be plsccd la vmg naeas
where It would draw four net" vert InteMt
which, of course, each il month would
be compounded. w .
By t lie time the" first girl married we
would have the amount of b'r dot ready,
and o for the seconl Of eonrae the
article, of Incorporation will require that
the 1r' be fair and reaoiiBhi ta thelf
demnd. W would prefer tbt the flrU
who Join the eociety be not ergs red, er at
Inst that the time of tbe weddlaf ban ot
yet been set. And w tb'nk we will mak a
provition tht ao girl shall be married fof
tlx month or tt lt a carter after the
of tbe Dot Home, We thiai we
tbe other and neither
:;bof King Edward the VII. as a Ball Room Expert
By a
A
By a Member OT tne KOyai Mouse Did. new and formality ar strlrfy barred. Put
8 befits a man wtio ha literally "e Mng finds t.'.e stntp r,t-r t.-rin
danced from hi babyhood and has '3d when one considers Ms hnppy nstnre,
danced at more bajla than "soy other lr l not to he w, nierert t 11 ,,. si.il
man In tbe world, the King-of England I t u ercrytbliig U done "just s," and tin-
an exquisite aancer. cer sjch rlr
With tbe King It la not only training
and good teaching, bur Heredity which
make him excel a a dancer. The great everthe!(t, although the King love
QrhsB erelf w highly aecompl'shed ''trfrg ,nd in.P, t0 B,aDinn blmsclf to
daacef, and moved with that gliding, wsy- eojy-nert of tbe moment, yet be par-
,v ; j-.. Uiree?
unititjcea the dancing nstur-
pattakes of the prevailing stlffcess.
Very Scrvere.
A cable dNpateb. describing yonng Jay
(iniild tennis victory In England, say:
' His railroad service was especially se
vere. Persons who traveried over the Erie
roud a gescratloB ago win be apt ta ae
'.n this the influence of heredity. Judge.
SJf -Sustaining. ....
Mrs. T'oB tto new maid) Rut Mary,
there are only two in the family. Mr. Duff
and myse.f. Wby bave you set place for
thwrwwSrt, practically Dos. .v v,U tn. dtBt.. Klng Edw.rd dances Ml. bU atrog'y. and i-moat sternly, seu'hl. f,c cook h'.rToM nr. TTosTa r.n.'ayer' will do Inck-uIabJe foM. We know we
waata to ve la a country wlsere marriage mother, dot when he flnda a partner t ) aclat a
la a jest ana aeaa w woH be fcts taete be tborooghly revets in t'.e ieiry
re-rertlng ta Mragery. If any of tt ehould -f .Bot.oti.
Qre ta lap ev.r, It e.- epos tbat gee- , jt it rrry trr.'-h to tte err!.: of the KIr.g
ersUott, wkli halrod ola tnea tai whims, that ale accession "to the dlgalty of tbe
we ereoM be ashaaaod that a er Tooth throne ha tr.aJe do difference to tbe ccno
we h4 doei aothtng to prevMit seek a try (.etlexma style be keeps t ndrlng
etate. I at ea do tot propose te have Thr sots' ball at Par.drlngham
iirtl rue for ahaae. For year I have injaiea-ortal enstom. and the Kinr and
kceaj etwdytag this eehjeet, 1 tad that ail Qar. alway. eem te enjoy It Tie King
woaaaal a gVUah ;Una are wliV ta, wUb the housekeeper aod the
tag te aaarry. Qeeen takes the betier. and tbe fan oouv
I hsv aje tr teres t ta attaaly weenie a anea.
I eote. slDglng and roillcknse the bouse, Harper's Weekly.
rowjyifm In the coarse of square dances
like !h, lasers Jy. "Luciy" One.
Of -c-rr'.e. nrany people tMrk It bit "We, get t-iirse sad rea, i Id the at-
thsc 1f the ftn of tbe thing to whirl tendant at the ' raaatle aaylnn to tbe
tie f off their feet, aod do all aorta of visitor, aod opened the door te the Iret
trs-1 "M; gs during tb ladles' efcala and ceil.
te rest, bat the Ring llkea all these Inside was a mil sitting aa a .tool acd
:'.'-r to be kept Itiiia the boo ads of grlr vscsctly at the wall.
gt-l art "Rid atory. ' said the attendant :
rati saake the Dot lod.tr achieve IU per-
poee of giving a dowry to the asember of
It who aaarry. Persoaally I doa t expect
to wed. i Perk ape ether girts will oot d.v .
Bat tbei majority ef them susdoubtediy
win. We wlU tlv ataply. eat pialav bst
good food, wear alanle clothln. beaUh ail
the Boa-eent1ala.
lol only wfll we give ear seosrer whe
"fce
In consequence of a dispute growing
out of matters absolutely confidential.
Mile, de Namlas sent ber seconds,
ajmes de S and D to Mmc.
Andree d'Alaia to ask an apology or
satisfaction from her by tecourse to
arms. S
Mme d'Alara, after consulting with
her representatives, Mme. L and
K , refused to retract anything.
A duel was thereupon decided upon
sfter a conference among tbe four sec
onds. The following condition were
streod upon for tbe duel:
1 Mile, de Namia. la recognised to he
tbe offended party.
2 The weapon chosen la the regular
Una duelling rapier.
I 9lereles chemisettes, light shoes
and glove at will are the restric
tion as to clothing.
4 A ipace of 15 metres fl ysrd.l
behind each contestant la allowed and
gmnnd gained In any onslaught Is
allowed To the advantage of the one
gaining It.
Each onslaught Is to last two mln
atee, with twe-blaat Utervala of
rest
"Clinches" are forblddea aa well
the -vs. of tbe free ajtv.
f The duel eball ceaae enoa the or
der of the eerooda, following their
eor, raits tM with the physiciaas la
arteodaer.
t Ry coanmoa agreeasent M. del Prat
I rbnee te direct the doel. Which
hall take alece la the norsfclrta of
I ef is, tee St. US of May. liroa.
These msee were rigidly ea forced by
neither wounding
giving ground.
The third bout with the sword proved
decisive. Mile, de Namlas "rioflied" her
antagonist and the latter crlel out th.-.t
she was "touched." Iier second ran 1:1
to her and she fell Into their arms. Mme,
d'Alaia had been wounded In tbe right
shonlder. Physicians eiamlned (be wona''
... .
iiinuuucfii ii net uiiiigerous, but
Mme. d'Aiaxa was too weak to go on with
the duel.
Nevertheless, Mme d'Alasn refused to
make any apology to Mile, de Namlas and
the Later left tbe Gold, compelled to ac
cept as sufficient satisfaction tier having
wounded ber adversary. The result of tha
duel was tta'ed in a paper .drawn, up and
signed by tbe lecouda aud by the phj-iU-clana
Every row and then tbe Joy of life In
Parle Is enhanced by one of these 'affairs
of honor" between fair ladles. Less than
year ago two pretty and popular
actreseesr-MHe. VI 1ml du Barrl and Mile.
Henee de la Chapelle fought with rapier
hrtnM tha y ..a , n , - ...
... .... ,ir. uau puojidy stated that
tbe former had a figure that reeembled
asns-sge tied roe ad tbe middle. .
Each ef the duelling ladle wore a abort
rtlrt and a gassy shirt, waist so thin that
the palpitating Bean beneath cou'U be seen.
After few desperate une. on ....
eld. Mil, da Barrt perceived a pink spot
ever the heart -of her adversary B!ooo"l
Mile., d la Chanell. was hr
. BMj ifirl I Tai ttnv IB lscm
araa 1 n lna wllj a r. ri Itnl tat anas rieol www a luw w iivhi imi , - - - - ... wvrl9mv9 aa v - -- - pia 'K" invre sinr-a I ha W
Fond thnogh be is of daadog. tbe King another aa, aod he toat hid reaee frea worries a boat bvatbeld peBeea wlU 4aH took . aa arraaged. la the Part 5,r klll'l ,tn lh col a
ever forget, the eomfort ef his neeta. sad grift" T. . anaka their cbaarea for fcarotaeea gro'r. a, rahaseed. at TUt d Avrar. ashtah !.I7jf 'B'B " b,rrt falated abe
I. hojkh 'rU. 0e r.a te!l at a It la po-M ht. Indeed probaMe tt.t 1. to, Cy cy B(a0a above giving hi. per- JZffl $ 4 fgS , IU g?f TV. e.t.el etrM. ef Ung blU. aad , Htk, and It waa spirited ote. Sea eoucleaMee. wa.tored the,
that tVy doat , wUh to atarry. Tbe the K'.e Myoy the eerr.ets ln bertvr wr,ta' errrsfghl to xarh dftai: a the dec l,.te. Tl li ceil .s tliick'y rdded. and p-M farir re 4 -- The rystttn rrv4 la the' port -ewe4 tot ach , lx-r ifwV: or-.
t-?Tt.!e Era tli5y w: "k yejjg stH whe thaa a Pat lt Of ewerse. infonrial oration aod more especially the aupner the ri.a wiikiw was stsrk, stsring nd. ' a rv rsiTel. IrTliatlna. Ursl trietr aawde enortly after daw. jfned d Jba i the wbo party, prlnc.,
, , . - .- ,v.t iwa j..- .1 . - . ... , . . . . . . ' . . , ho js tkteT" Inaiired tbe visiter. . T . . . , . . 7 bv trlrpe'd etf tbeir rts eed wsle P , evo 1 gad ajrgeeoa. adloarned te
r" ' b-eBg botwst. thai the daace at a ewutry hewe ia bewt ef all. for The K lag's &rt(e ti c4ahtedly rh." niettM tne sttexUat. "thla T- t-raageBt feyw. and thea that .J,1, r . nH. .0,iwnre, wane tee rests. r. at to, tie gayest aad moat
';'- - t fcautx 1 t-t iicSf mn thtrt iw tVm&a ige4her. b gtLMr. tha.araJU cetUlea. : : . U Us other Btaa." Xlt-Eiu. ' orc ctrartA , ' the g-hyaiaas too tbe raptra Iroa thw naicahle breakfast U Ueir LUeUmea. ,