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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (July 5, 1908)
. THE " OREGON SUNDAY ' JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING," JUL 1003. FROM Br. Edward P, Irwtn. Tina old earth upon which ws llvs l fairly familiar to moat of ua, t laaat in It commoner aspects. W. travel back and forth ovor a mall portion of It, aa a rula over about tha aamrf-patha, looking upon tli aama old things and generally seeing but few of them and If familiarity does not breed contempt, It at least jirevents wonderment and narrow our capaclf for comprehending the stfango Tiiaa of thdt upon which we gaze un seeing. . It Ta not until, one stands upon the rim of one of the great alnks of deso lation which waa once one of the vents of tha unknown Interior of this strango globe, and gazes down Into the scarified depths where" ages agone the subter ranin forces played at world-making, . that a faint (learn of comprehension begtns to llht up complacent Ignorance and he understands to Home slight ex tent the fury of the titanic struggle out of which the earth surface waa evolved. An extinct volcano' in which the de parture of tta flrea In sufflccntly re cent that the gradual process of disin tegration' haa not tranaformed It Into a ftrtlle valley la even more impressive than an active volcano. In the latter there la life, the evidence of Inconceiv able power and fury. "One Is thrilled and awed at what he hnlf eees. half . suspects in the swirling deptha. But lit the former he looks upon the resuli of the struggle of thoae blind forces and upon their grave. See America, First , . Last spring, traveling as the corre ap'ondent for a Honolulu newspaper ., ' with . the governor of Hawaii and his party around the Island of Maui, I stood one morning upon the rim of the great crater of Haleakala and watched : the nun rise out of the eastern sen and "above the banks of cloud far below us. Every year there is an exodus, of Amer icans to Europe, and not 4 few of them ; climb the Icy reaches to the summit of (Mount Blanc or some other of the Al 'plno giants to see the sun rise. Some day riob. America will travel to the Island of Maul In Hawaii to watch the 'Incomparably greater spectacle of 'sunrise on Haleakala. We had rested at Makawao one day early In March, after having for several days' ridden the mountain trails that form the only land connection between ' . the northern and the southern ends of '. Maui. , The governor and his party were making a tour of the island for tne purpose of looking Into its resources and farming possibilities, and on the afternoon after reaching Makawao wa rode out" over the Haiku district to - . amine some lands supposed to be available-for pineapple culture. Returning to the home of Worth Aiken at Mak- wao. late in the afternoon TROPICS TO FRIGID ZONE Climatic Transformation Possible in a Few rfolxrs' Experience in Trip to HaleakalaIslancls sit One b Feet, Wnile Beyond Ifl Unlimitalle Sea I. " i i mem ii i.i i i a u the mountain be made There was a fair moon, and the nros pect was 'A pleasing one to several of us. Only six of the party decided to go Governor Frear, Land Commis sioner Pratt: Worth Aiken, private sec retary to Governor McBrlde; W. J. Cop per, , correspondent for a Honolulu paper, and the writer. Glacier and Cloud Effects. The ascent of. HAeakala can hardly called mountain-climbing In the Al , pins sense. There are no glaciers to "J3 crossed, no whirling clouds of snow blind the traveler, no avalanches ' . , , '' " - ', ' ' l , ' 1 '.'''... "' , " - " . " " - " ' , ' ... ym ....... . , . .' . ..,. : . ... . ... ..... . , . .. , .. ... . , .. - .. 1 ; .. .... V .. : . .... , y . . ' ", l ' , 1 I , i - , 1 f - ' A J ' "Itl . ' SH . ' . ' , . 4 1 t - , - - r . . , t I ' ' ' f S - V . ' I ' 2 r ..,.-5ii - ;- - .- - v - ' , 1 . v sm . w? ..t4,':.- -i;: - -; , , x, . C...y ' .v ,y - ....-..; ( - . ..:..: fl" .. ' "" , v ON THE. VAV TO JVM. t J " """ , . ' ; In the Improbable event of a horse stumbling over one of the boulders and throwing his rider over hlsshead onto the lava. So those who read this need look for no acrount of hair-breadth es capes and thrilling adventure. For two or three miles we rode along a country road unusually good for Ha waii, where good roads are the excep tion rather than the rule. Then leav ing this, we commenced the ascent of the mountain. The first part of the climb was like riding along through the rolling ground of one of the mid dle western states. A trail, accessible even for vehicles, wound up the side of the mountain, and on each slJo stretched away rich pasture land, whereon grazed thousands of cat tle. At lntetH-als out Oi the darknes ahead would loom ghostlike a white signpost Informing us that the lummlt was so many miles ahead. faintly visible, and .flouting far below ua nvir tha aea and tha lowlands wa - could see what appeared to be ghostly islands, white, unsubatantlal. foamllke. A few degrees above the eastern nor. lion hung a narrow atrip of cloud, black a coal but with tha lower edge faintly tinged with delicate rose from the aa yet Invisible sun. The light Increase! ,wlth wonderful rapidity and the higher clouds burst Into, flam or beoattia In' credible masses of pearl and amethyst and gold, with daahe of purple and cerlso and deeper painting of violet and orange. The colors changed every minute un til one could hardly follow tha bewilder ing transformation. Out of a sea of pearl dust the-summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna I-oa on tha adjacent Island of Hawaii rose swimming In tha glory of the morning. Molokal floated on a mysterious sea of vapor. I,anal lay like a long sand dune bathed In the dif fused glow. The mountains of Weat Maul rosa boldly above ft, plain yet hidden In the vapors of the night. And the colors In the eaat Increase 1, vibrated, changed with kaleldoscopio swlttness. And then suddenly there appeared above tha rim of, the world a dniillng segment of a circle of molten gold. An Instant wa stared at It,, and then there ahot above the horlson aa if hurled up by giant hand tha great ball of tha sun.; ." Gardens of Color. , The clouds swimming far below wera instantly metamorphosed . Into gardens, of color Their upper surfaces, which were turned to us, glowed with every color of 'the rainbow, every minutest drop of moisture acting as a prism through which the rays of tha sun passed and were broken up Into their component elemental colors and re flected up to us. Ana orr in tne west they were unable to advance more than 100 feet or so without stopping, for the the great blue shadow of the mountain atmosphere at ,M)0 feet Is very rare. Itself was cast on the darker sky. And it wns getting colder. Some of " The crater that lay below us was in the party who were entirely unprepared rtrlklng Contrast to the glory of tha for tho trip felt the chill keenly, for east Arid, stark, desolate, It was the there Was a wind blowing that aeemed very place of death. Where once a f u- to find every opening in one'a clothing rtous sea of fire boiled and tossed ltn na to scarcn its way to tne marrow, troumei cone ana snot great coiumna One of the party was seised with the nausea of mountain sickness and before the summit was reached waa almost unable to sit his horse. A Climb to the Top. We rode Bteadlly until the rovurnnr euddenly proposed that an ascent of reached Idlewlld. Alken'a summer home Ajr Grows Cold mm nignu na hair-way nouse. at an elevation or 4,000 feet. Although we were In the the moon went down, leaving us In darkness so dense that none could see the rider In front of him. Overhead the . stars glimmered but faintly on account of the haze which had spread over the sky. But far be low us glittered the twinkling lights of the great sugar mills of I'ala and Puunene, and the harbor beacons of Kailua. The stillness was absolute, ex cept fon. the clatter of stones and the heavy breathing of the horses. There the Top," broke out a large" part of the eastern wall and allowed the molten rock to pour in devastating flood down the mountain side. The gap still remains, mute testimonial of the powers of the Madame Pele. the fire goddess whose habitation the crater once was. tropics, the air was already decidedly chilly. It was the original intention to spend the night at this place and finish the ascent early in the morning; but the moon was still two hours , above the western horizon, and the desire to see the sun rise tempted iw to continue the ascent. So leaving the cheerful fire th Shortly after the moon sank, we came to a long barbed wire fencefor the slopes of Haleakala are leased by a grazing, company for the pasturage of their thousands of cattle and In order to keep our direction, we followed the narrow trail that ran alongside of mm rence. ay this time the air had """"' i" i" "b i ii r-ViaK k cv iiurti nu, uecome aeciaecuv com, and each of us we rode out and up the mountain. had put on a long rubber slicker Sud- From here on the ascent was much denly out of the stillness came a long harder. A trail was built to the sum- r-r-r-rlp that startled each man to an mit about three years ago at a heavy upright position In his saddle. A muf- expense. but the engineer apparently fled exclamation that sounded much like knew nothing of the effects of moun- muffled profanity followed Pratt's tain storms, now- It absolutely slicker had been caught on one of the iwrns oi me ience and torn half across. Naturally this was funny to the rest of us until our laughter was stopped by two mora tearing sounds. Cooner had vvMuii uuwn steep ptopes, tnreatening to unusable on account or the rushing tor- Jjury beneath them any unfortunate rents of water which at certain seasons luat, may be In their way. For a day- of the year pour down the face of the Jlcriu ascanL not even a srulde is neo- old volcano. fnnaMiientlv. under th CSijary. All the traveler needs Is to leadership of Mr. Alken. who. had made mvself l,d ventured t .r..h, k.k. 7 , :.YA nl l-ol" a .i' i-l .- A l .1 01 , 1 e a- 1 , . '. . . ' 1 " uniua ... . . u " 1 1 ' hub 01 nsL-rius ueiurc, w rime suuiKni ud ana hrpn Kroner j . . . . ...... ail -the way to the summit. The road, the mountain In pursuit of the ever- With the ironic- down nf the mnnr. ,." ..' ?? A B15nl Ma D??1 tne Bam wltb never a slip. But breathing waa IS IWia. IS Inconceivably rouisrh. hut vnnlshine- skvllne Shortly after l,,ni.u l,lin ,u -.1,1.1. ' t-j 't' it is in no pa'culc.r dangerous, eacept had reached an elevation of $.000 'feet trying to catch up suddenly leaped for- SOM E FIRST I the layered a-a. hn 1 1 1 rl er heenme hniwmlni, harA fi, k aA .. .-...- v nut m ponies oDiigeu n stop constantly anff let them scrambled over the rocks like goats, blow. Towards the end of the Climb of molten rock toward the sky is now an Immense yawning hole, burned and corched by the ancient fires, barren except for straggling clumps of a hardy plant that appears abla to live without soli or moisture. Haleakala la the greatest volcanic The last part of the ride was by far crater in the world, either active or e- Ihe worst, the way being through a-a ."J" '5J Pll8, i"1"' , , . ... , . miles across. Bometlmo during Its long bouldera with occasionally masses of peri0(j of activity the great weight of slippery ponoenoe. Ana tne ascent was tne monen iava in mis cistern or nr almost as steep as the side of a house. But unexpectedly Aiken anounced, "There's tho- top, and looking up we taw the ragged line of the crater faintly against tho sky. One last scramble, and the horses landed us on tOD. "where we could get the full benefit of the gentle r xrt,,i. -T7.V.. zephyr that seemed to have come on a rcnt volcanic fires, special mission direct from the north role. "Me for the dear old Alaska where it's warmed," moaned one mem ber of .the party as lie dismounted and stood shivering in the wind. "I'ghr-r-r-r," groaned another, -''I was never so cold In my life." But he was a good deal colder before ' the sun came up. There Is a house on tope of Haleakala but a windstorm ome time ago blew the roof off and when we made the as cent the place waa useless. So we crawled into a sort of cave, under the edge of the eraser - atfd tried to keep warm by, .the ifperceptible head of a kerosene lantern. It was S o'clock when we reached the summit a long time in that wind to wait for the sun to come up. But while it was -still black dark, our guuie nustioa us out to watch the sun rise. There was the faintest crimson ( v Within the greater crater are about a dozen minor craters, thrown up during the dying out of the fires, probably y their Inst spasmodic sputtering. Viewed from the summit these curious ly resemble hills. Yet from the floor of the crater they are seen to be moun tains in themselves, some of them being nearly 1,000 feet In holght.. It is al most possible to climb them, for their surfaces are formed of constantly slid ing particles of red lava sand and one slips back almost aa far each step as he gains. Nothing can give any better Idea of the terrible earth forces than the scarred and riven, sides of the rim of the crater. And if one can picture to himself this huge vent In the earth filled with flame and boiling rock, he may get some raint loea or tne manic glow In the east, which steadily and rowers that created out In the midst of rapidly became brighter. Soon the des- the Pacific this now fertile and pleas- olate valley of the huge crater became ant group of Islands. ONS OF IMPRESSIVE GIBRALTAR t '-V " m Inn iii.i.mijja'.l. j mill' -V-aHjrff Ji . . . 'r-TWM 1 m vT .Saasaiss- 4V r- ' rt" .. XT ' l 1 Hill. . , , t Oi.v VI :-- . ,f .v... . ,.L. r-" '- , , .- . . - r3P XT- - A it."-' ' i- .' wrt l- .-'! " "" ' : " ' -r -. sKatyM, - CSIDKA.LTER. CTH.E ROCK) rKOrl TrVE BAY. By J.- Mabel Miller. THE deep azure of a clear SeptenT ber day reflected in the tideless waters of the Mediterranean. Be tween the blue above and that . below, the majestic figure of a lion couchant carved bv nature out of stone a gigantic rock rising 1,400 feet out of the sea and bristling with the fortifications of Britain, (.ibrallarr Such was my first Impression, while waiting to be rowed ashore from the Sclndia, of one of the most historical as j. well as one of the greatest geo graphical features In the world. From an !mprcss:on to a thought Is S. swift transition, and perhaps the first idea that occurs to one in enter ing the Straits of 5UirBltar Is toe near ness of Africa to Kur..e the dMtnice being but nine mlle from the -most -northern point of Africa o Tarfa t-paln. the moat southern point of Eu rope. On the headland at Tarifa Jutting Into the aea, still Hands the old Moor !h catle, one the monghold of the Karbary piratea who in mediaeval times enacted tribute from all h!ps wising tha straits. In fact, the word 'rifr I 1 . F" TTTTfta ll i.'Vr. .41 "niWtiliiJ t ii f-r in' I mm ' i . ' . .T-awyyiii WS 1 a ., j ' --frJtj aw-Vt2g-waqrj, jt., C are the casemates and barracks of tha artillery regiments that serve the guns. The line wall Is armed with guns of the biggest caliber, some of them mounted on the parapet above, but most of them being In the casemate below. These are but the beginning of the de fenses. In the rear of the town again are batteries that can be fired over the tops of the houses, and the rock Itself bristles with guns. The rock galleries, however, are the "greatest feature of Gibraltar. These were begun over a century ago and were blasted out of the bowels of the earth by ganga of convicts. The tour of the galleries Is precisely like walking through a railway tunnel, with the exception that there are no arches, the solid rock through which the excavation Is hewn being self-supporting. From the entrance at the Moorish castle, which was built In TOO or thereabouts, to . the Hall of St. George at the end. In which Nelson waa once entertained by the officers of the garrison, I a distance of two miles. At intervals of SS feet there are port holes through whlcTt light is admitted, and at which heavy guns are stationed, mounted on carriages by which they can be swu-ng around as desired. Thesn enormous guns In the galleries have been likened to the teeth of a Hon, the shape of the rock so closely resembling that of a lion couchant, and the gal leries' being located in what woula bo very.Ua head.. paid Tne galleries are In two tiers, one above the other, each a mile In length. l nn . , . . . . - nnu Brs i-Mi viij) nji wiei ti Blue in tim I-,12"!,.h.a" .L"t5 "h"r,5,'tlm o Pnd rock, the side which' faces Spain, and are intended as a protection against advances from the land. The sanguine kodak fiend who Im agines that he Is going to have an In teresting souvenir of the fortifications, or of anything else I at Gibraltar, is doomed to disappointment. No sooner does he unstrap his kodak from his shoulder than a polite British official informs him of the frultlessness of his desire. The human aspect of Gibraltar Is particularly Interesting. When the tourist steps upon the quay he Is con fronted by a motley array of humanity, mostly with something to sell. Here are Moors and Spaniards; Jews, long bearded, clad In gabardines: Turks In 3 ti Is said to be derived from stronghold, where duty was to the pirates of the sea. this first THE GOVERNMENT HOUcSE. HER CRY ... Br Charles Foley. - THE lat rehearsal of the drama -Her Death Cry,- waa over and the playwright, Johnow. left the little thaatra pale with fury. He had evary reason to fel netted. Atl the actors had doc veil and every thing bad gone fine, but the actress -)f rlsyed-tbsKAIn part the beautiful ISonda Mlzal Werner. Bad been simply r I tlcuhma. laatwvd of doing her vary bt ed patting her whole soul late her tart ah bad doa nothing but r,ir OF DEATH silly. The stage manager Is stuck on h-r. too, putting It mildly, so he will do m.ihlng. sind If anything is to be do'ie j must do It myself." -At this moment the object of his thoughts left the theatra. together wlih the stags manager. Mizzl Werner was Indeed thankiesa creature. Without Johnow ahe would never have had this chance He bad ordered her engaged, and now shs was deceiving Mm with tne stage manager. Indignant at her ungratefulness and a I moot insane with jealousy, Johnow Went over to the couple and said curtly: I did not want to humiliate vou in rrom or tne otner actors, Madame. at Gibraltar, the first thing to do Is to climb the rock, which Is not difficult, and on reaching the- summit the view from this Pillar of Hercules of two seas and two continents Is well worth the exertion, particularly at , sunset, when the sky is literally aflame. Women who are not good walkers usu ally aval themselves of the patient, sure-footed dorikeys, and are thus car ried safely to the top. Although a rock." Gibraltar Is fer tile to the point of luxuriance, produc ing no less than 500 snecies of ferns and flowering plants, 80 per cent of which are native. On the side of the rock the Barbery apes are frequently visible. Wonderful as It Is bv nature. Clh- hass-v frnimern t n t in. . nA ,.i, raltar has at the same time, the dls- and blackest Africans, besides a native tlnctlon of being the strongest fortlfl- variety known as "rock scorpions" cation in the world. The rook is three from this babble of tongues and tan nines long and from a half, to three gle of color I was glad to escape to the quarters of a mile wide, the whole clr-e cool seclusion of a friend's house and cult being approximately seven mlls. be refreshed bv a dainty luncheon of The town Is protected by artificial Scotch scones and honey and oatcakes defenses consisting principally of a and tea. within sound of 'a simple song line wall, which Is a tremendous mass service at a mission conducted hv tha. Of masonry, two mllef In length, with Established church of Scotland, and projecting bastions having guns turned within sight of a field where a Scotch iight and left, sweeping the face of the regiment, gaily kilted, was marching to wall. the muRlc of the pipes Inside the line wall, fronting the bay. Truly cosmopolitan Is Gibraltar! anv of the three arts, and my talent la atn-jte:v in a comical line. I love to laugh, and know how to make othera lavish. In that rase you ought to have given un jour part instead of pestering me until I ,jv, it to you. I tell you onc you play !h tH ,- i iiini ci i ne otner sciors, Maoame, nut . , , .' " . -" - ' ' " rfnnnaon If - ... i u rr, aei only aa I r-M. but a. lover. r. but it muf he played right The . .:tB.M Wrese from art t art. " ir.tead ef Il ls I ir.ay Bar tonight !--. -the audience, tns'ead of altting 'h.rt nd di.rtrg the lirg ar-e m I -r nj t lnr leg Kfrieu Ma illnl -, ,.t ! l J ef shnvmc xtrema an- act-e. -A. Intra if tte M tMn rer a rv. . i . er ., Her rrf of death ls-rarrpyyeura. ou. in enlte of all m v assistance and advice. Insist pon playing your part aa Insanely- as yru hSTe Just done, you will rum the whole thing, and the play will be an utter fa'lure." . . "I wast you to understand, sir. that I plr any part I conceive It" Mizzl replied with a amlle. pot the least hn- ,-."-j or me anger r the author. Ton i'n- ir.m innignt you must play your part with more conviction, and espe cially you must put much more feeling nit" ynur cry or aeath. "If you believe that I'm cry myself hoarse for your ere very much miniitn i- tired of all your fault finding. eirurtor na tne stage mana ay mat I play excellently, as Is possible In a run nf that what you think Is absolutely rial to me. Reatdea that vou make all this fusa not i linn i piay wen. hut becausa jeaioua a an old cat She. added half a dozen more neni remarks. aid Johnow. n oughly Infuriated, was barelv preeene nia caimnesa aa 1 OU would Setter Ka rmr po not force roe to do ometbln leu. In the meantime tha calm both parties, assuring the play wright that he was absolutely certain of the success of the play, and then took Miss Mizzl home, admonishing her to take a good rest before going back for the performance In the evening. As soon as Johnow was alone h soon grew cool. As for his disappointment in love, he felt his pride returning, and then he put a special delivery stamp on It and dropped It In the box. ' . The curtain rose slowly and the thestre was filled to the last sest with an sudlence which at first didn't look as If It had much feeling, but the scenes took well, and after a while the nudlenee followed the play with great a urn lion. hate you! The love whlrffllled my hrart nas become a Jealousy which Jor tures me. I have suffered too much, and tonight, when you enter upon the stage I shall have my revenge, fare wefl!,x Mizzl stood pale and motionless wi terror. "Look out yoti will get your cue In a moment, tne stage enanager whispered. this thought, she Tlfted her head ant looked around. Suddenly her eyea landed upon thi prompters box, and what she saw there almost made her faint. In the place of the prompter Johnow waa sitting atar- th-"! !". i1' yf" b,,n- with fury. The girl stood as If paralyzed. It was tne moment when the ......t.y-u in npwn ana nned IliSB a.ef t.i - - . . .... in" r i wsi giiwuen mm u "iiiibi'vi v iu hid nrr in rnn srn trm m4 i om io win o nimseir mat an buo.tit hrM-h iJ,M,n"w naan x rpmm nut tn hjld ftW.laTi4v1 her from h-r hWd Mhts inr mt thm trrihA k JTUK iger both playwright. In hi. character i. le ner. flirting with him worse than aver. iZZ ZH.VTlr.Z D!T Wh"t llT?."'."? L J.ohP. stoop and take - imir-H.ifii upon m ii - : .i rur tvuuj jV u s i. n n p m)h nonwnn th idM of vou hv1nf i mM attralsrht At ka . ficaus, fist WUU,a Tmii : Johnow that hew.", not 'Ti of- .JZ.tF K"LJ" ff.'" !S-217l' Zn ZP.J!?.ti- Impertl- .rpe.r abaoiu ely n-inrT when .h. .h "".,,,"rK-"nV:i"m5. X2r 10 001 " w" 1 V,n ' lM C! .J"r..?- ""ch ""l; f::zJ'Eji?i rherrn' h raid: hr. If I onl kn,. i VTiTi Liw?.. " VL4 " 7"' .V'JT " Tr - w"" Tn. in PP "N th aurl!im -r4ck- And johnew cnt'lnu on .. w 'uJ. LV. th uUl " L 'n'"5..?rt.V J" ?. n front of the curt. n. ' ' with at frown on his forehead, and had Jnat then a aim y.mA t,e,.a v.. . . . v. i . . .1. v-i . Johnow m. .... .!.. L , L , - . .- ' " ....... - . - i.T ., , u.. u "J . . V , , I, ll-l- I ' 'I -TimrmL An inBA ills iirry inirr. pn laoaen at it If n in trie meantime tha stave manaa-ae ilmiut r..nki ki. "Z"' mr T."T """" ""r cj. lr,fl-l. t hir found an who until now had believed that iawaa rertln M .1 ru, ki- L. . I J fTwciai oiiTery letter. en. ioiMd st U Th.rViS.-r.". rg7.TooI'.Ti rUU,hA ..LhJ f?iLl irtoM.ril.-nnt that iiwa..n iohw-b-wrHln.' , ' r aparimenta. out it n theatre. TbS letter read. " 1 bar ioted, bow I whte"h meant a-Wirv mwA . - l, Evta lf he .hotild h among the audi- Mizzl Werner never olaved t. . r,.r Mas. for he would scnll the auoreaa bis own piay," axid amcwhat calmer f saer and deelare. that not for a fortune , would sis srer go on tha stags again.