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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (June 21, 1908)
THE OREGON JOURNAL, PORTLAND Clinging Draperies of the Director it ')Pemd;--;Origmirt$jn- Paris; Make No Secret of the Female Figm i 1 .1 l . . - -ws. . if . fSf 7' ?rfei.;r . :' I Wi - ',"--- r : re-,,., ..v,v,, -nf. ' k (;- -v-- vk- -,UrrJm--- ' ? -i-c-l--x M III , dshncfion ' tuere ars yet tw women who Intlst upon mor tnoid rtyto, nfl for tha tta Dlrctolr and Inotoyabl bv bn dvU4. Th r not exactly repUoaa of th maaculia coatumn of lon( ago. but they ara near nouKh to ba quit rconUabla. A peculiar fact In that. urln tha period whea the men were wearlnr cutaway coat called "Incroyable" the women wore aklmpy. cllnln (owna. Now women wear both etylea, ahowln what aln they hare made toward attaining their rights and prlrUegeil The Incroyable coat U worn 'with a eorielet eklrt. which la aa narrow aa comfort allows, eo even these tailored aulta ahow the aarne tendenclee m the mora formal fowns. The skirts alwaya have a fob pocket above the waist Una, from which an old-faahloned aeal must bang-. The short skirt haa gone entirely ont of fashion, save for combination salts. These last are checked serge skirts, worn with broadcloth coats of a dark, solid coloring, and are really mada on strictly tailored lines, though there Is no waste of material In the skirt. The Dlrectolre Is plainly seen to be an evolution of the Incroyable, a nat ural atep from a coat cut squarely away at the bust U one shaped off la a diagonal line. These are alwaya made with tiny short vests, usually of cre tonne, though sometimes of ambrbidered satin. The Dlrectolre eoat la also used with the "two-piece" suits, when aklrt and waist are one and worn over a gulmpe. Costumes of this type are usually of silk, satin or pongee, while the coats are eoutached and finished with the Nsipoleonlo collar, aa the standing variety has been dubbed. Covered-buttons, too. are extensively employed on these suits, and they. are used to trim both dresa and ooat. Another coat, worn with a gulmpe dresa Is made In four panels each, elab orately braided and embroideredi This style must be three-quarter length, and the seams oh both sides and Ja the back are not sewn together below the waist line. These suits are frequently made of that now fahrio Uke-yet unlike PThe :r.lmanVcoa? ."Sus'SfSuppl. aatla that first mad. their appnce this sDrlni and there are many coais made entirely of outaoae braid woven in ana out and lined with ealtfon or light-weight silk la the same shad as the braid. Th Taatjn suits are generally trimmed with rows of button and hands or. Persian embroidery. With lingerie dresses no ooat may be worn, aave hat Toi ?lrlsh lace or an all-enveloping one of pongee, which may or mar aot b FeaSheMd'and flowered hate are worn with tailored aulta as -well as lingerie -wn7 and sheath dresses; ever, that old standby, the ostrich plume, haa been fmnroved ponTThe latest Is to cat away one side of the feather, entirely and substitute a little frill of softo.tlnarabou. The effect rather incongruous, Sli? t has appealed to the fancy of the fickle ladles of fashion. ' Tulla too, la much used as a hat trimming, and the favorite color Is a bright .Tireen while flowers with email blossoms, such as lilacs, are arranged to ffSrniitelr hide the crown of many of the latest chapeaux. completely mue appropriate with the gown of very elaasio out, so miiL?v his discarded them, and wears Instead a large affair of chiffon, whloh Is SJifr two yards wide and four yards long. This protects her coiffure before 5. Irriwer at her destination, and later it servea aa a scarf to better show oft rJheful lines of her gown and figure. Kt bourse, the old-fashioned sunshade would never do to carry with these -rtfiiiocostumes, so a parasol with a very long stick has been provided, whloh ft be' held In the aarne care-free and natural way as the country-bred Bo hora her crook. What could affectation have to do la comblaetloa with 2wPni T copied from Diana s favorite robe I . nf course, the shrouding skirts have had their effect on footwear and .took- The only really fashionable shoe Is finished with a very high heel, while i flTr colonial buckle, preferably of gold, ornaments the Instep. Btookings Z,,,Zi oertalnlr match the gown, and they must be of silk. Cotton stockings X) C&JM fringe own $ must certainly wiu able last ' not meet the requirements, be they ever so mercerised. The ultra fashion' ' vear suede slippers in tha same shade as gown and stockings, but thl tanot considered an absolute necessity, for tha hats, too, are so often, black thla black. .h mav ba trimmed with any color, in fact, black ie very popular, indeed, just now. and hardly any really good may be finished without Just a touch of It somewhere about, while al ?n.t all black oostumee are lightened by a little trimming of apple green. reviewing the faehlons of the last few yeara, it la easily aeen that they . .lawiv merged from the strictly masculine type to the prlncesse and then te ?h Emolre. These, In time, combined and introduced the Dlrectolre. and later ,7,1 incroyable. following this line of retrogression, the next step will ba tha loose chiffon gown of Charlemagne's time, girded at tha waist with a golden fc.it studded with heavy Jewels. tJntll long after liOQ no coiia'rs were worn and the original classlo gowna of ih Revolution were low Becked in tha extreme. Now transparent gulmpes cover the neck and arms. Will the next step ba a complete return to anolaat BU11 In the line of retrogression, the chiffon and tulle scarf now beginning Its relcn. belonged to the era of Marie Antoinette. Is the long fichu the next stept Whence does fashion oomeT .Why Ms F it that the idiosyncrasies of an Indi vidual ars seised upon and made a world-wide custom, while others remain un- ' noticed? Is there one fountalnhead, one real Dame Fashion? There is an Idea Prevalent at the moment that the. old Dame lives In Budapest, and there aha sits In some medieval castle and sends startling Ideas out In the world. But Budapest is not the fountalnhead of fashion. Unquestionably It la Paris, but ' how and when the autocratic Dame holds court Is Impossible to say.. Fashion Is elusive. A good Idea is found; surely it will ba taken up and made popular! The women never see It, they refuse to countenance It. not one. but all in a body. Again some hideous style revived will instantly strike their fancy, and ' even the fairest lady looks like a caricature of her former self. - Tha new gowns arevunauestionably beautiful and graceful, but practical they ' are not. They suit admirably all formal occasions, and, if tha style la not -abused, thilnnovaUoa will enjoy a long day. of popularity. - - j- , f ' 14 P;':''!:vv''1; '11 4 'y-yy- w- --v' . i v . Jn ,A'h vf S7 2. -. ',. , r LTS- ' V - . ' :. ) , . y My : ." . t, yik ; lv-v?. . r- -.
