The Oregon daily journal., June 21, 1908, Page 28, Image 28

THE "OREGON JOURTTAL, . PORTLAND
Daring "Sheath" Gowns That Startled 'Fashionable Paris Shown for the First Time in America
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Great Fashion Show at Longchamps Races,
Reproduced on These Pages, Forecasts the
Coming Styles in Women s Dress
SMotel- OorrwpMidMs at Tte JodxaaL
PARIS. Vay IS.
THH entr tntereit t th momnt la th ahea.tti cowtu From n hItorICl
tudpolat tltaM atJtrtllnr lnnovatlona in feminin apparel arc Juit due.
Faihlon rana la eyclaa, and about arerr third ranaratlon aeaa a rJu
tc nation of an old atria. Bat. for all that, tha tlma of tha Franoh Kar
lotion wae tha last partod when aklmpr arowaa of clauio out were worn. Still
latar, under tha Directory, another olaaalo ityle waa decreed, called tha "Grecian
Roman rown.but It waa too much a mixture of atyleayto ba either attractive
or baoomlns, ao It waa eoon discarded. Furthermore, In thoie daya they had
not a wlda choice of materia la, whllo now there la nothing; to hamper tha moat
Tarrant fancy, and tha advent of a now era In dreaa la Inevitable
Am Ions ao aa laet January tha faahlon eraatora decreed "no petticoat. but
winter weather postponed tha obadlanca of avan tha moat enthusiastic How
over, spring- at last has come to their assistance, and the race meeting- at
famous Long-champa brought forth tha latest and skimpiest fashion In, all Ita
entirety. By the tlma of tha Grand Prix every true Parislenna will be the proud
possessor of a silhouette ooatuma, and then tha faahlon will be confirmed. Sil
houette, by the way, merely meana tight and clinging, so all the praaent fash
ions come under that classification.
Longchamps Is, after all. only a sort of trial faahlon ahow. It remains for
tha later races to prove what has been accepted and what has been rejected.
The sheath gown la a combination of both thf empire and tha prinoassa
tyles, with a little of tha ancient Oreo lan thrownMn tor rood luck. It must
ba made of aoft and auDola material, wound and draped round tha fls-ure. with
one and faatened lust bolow the shoulder blada in tha back. It la always worn
with transparent gulmpe and sleeves, and It cannot bo apoiled by petticoats.
On this foundation of three characteristics tha aensational garments are built,
though each may have soma distinctive feature all ita own. Hera one beauti
ful costume of aoft liberty satin baa a skirt only ona and one-half Tarda round,
which la split to tha knee, not only to allow tha enshrouded lady to walk In a
natural human manner, but to show Just a glimpse of satin trousara and a
silken stocking to match tao gown, fastened below tha knee with a golden
garter. In tha middle of tha front, just below tha knee on the wrong aide of
tho dreaa, there la a ribbon etrap, to whtoh la fastened a heavy weight, so that
no line of tha figure may bid beneath an accidental fold. Tha gown la long
both front and back, and It la finished in a half-long, pointed train, so that,
whan tha wearer la standing, there will ba ona straight lino of material reach
Ina- from shoulder to ham, giving bolght to tha figure and detracting from tha
width of tha hips, which commodity tha present-day Woman cannot -afford to
have, or to acknowledge, even though provided with tham by an unkind fata.
The gulmpe and aleavaa of tha gowne are well worthy of notice. They must
bo of chiffon or net, tha yoke quite without a fold, but the aleevea are shirred,
ao that tha aelvago of tha chiffon forma a ruffle at tha back of tho arm from
shoulder to wrist. A woman of really practical turn of mind might manage
to make ona satin frock do for all day and all evening. In tho morning a lining
under rulmpe and alaoveai la the afternoon, tha aama nnllnedj in tha evening,
tha gulmpe removed entirely, leaving a Tory decollete gown, of too latest out. .
What could ba simpler? . ' ' .
The hat for these artlstlo costumes must, of coarse, bo la keeping with
tho whole, oo tha always popular Oalnaborough la tho favorite. This permit
of broad brim, nigh crown and many ostrioh plumes, walla, to giro a little va
riety, a large aigrette may bo added. . - , - :
Scarfs and sashes must not be overlooked, for ther form aa Important part
f tho costume of today. Tho former may be attached to cither shoulder, or
both, and may hang down baok or front; It may also hang; from tha back of
tho neck to tho end of tha train, or It may bo worn like a stole or like a choker.
The technical names of tho sashes at praaent are far too numerous to men
tion, it Is enough to aay that aomo are modeled after the ona worn by Cleopatra;
others resemble thoss of tha rrpsy oa hi native heaths rrSUe still others eeera
to bo copied from the sola garment of heatisa tribesmen. Just so there Is
some aoft satin depending from a spot somewhere above tho waist line, either
at the sids of ths back or tho front. It really doea sot matter what also, shape
FriS'haareturned again, trot thia tlaae tt la i used after the fashion of a
Carmen, it is aewn to iam ub v um "
as it will and wherever tt may happen to be. Cameo pins i are employed wea
decoration, and theea are used at neck or waist line In back or front Other
Jewels are taboo, save the heavy armlet worn with evening dress and the Jew
eled garter, not alwaya visible. ... . . ' .. ,
Mot only naa asnion aecioeu in un vui uv uuu v vu.ub,
but aha has also decreed that woman, to be fashionable, must leara to walk
and stand. The only method of perambulation allowable Is a sort of gliding
motion, ao that'the light skirt 111 not become disarranged. Btandlng la an
art only acquired by practice, for one must make a complete revolution ao the
train will wrap round the feet. living the desirable Naslmova line. M
fco much for tha gown of a at in which enwrap aad enshroud the figure. But