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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (May 17, 1908)
THE OREGON " SUNDAY JOURNAL', PORTLAND, . 'SUNDAY MORNING, MV 17, 1808. Copyright, 1908, by Americas-Examiner. Great Britain Rifbts Reserved.' jtJ The-Jumper Dress, ev ieral Novel Additions, Promises 5 to Have a Continued Vogue Tins SummerParasols in New and Striking Designs Shown in Great Variety IHBleBllIp 'f . V .' KD again the Jurnptr Onim! ' . A Wis women who neglected to" plan them for their "; summer wardrobe "they ' will ". fee so dreadfully common, - every one wtll wear them rv--muat now hasten to .repair their ommisilon. for lt a case of "everyone' will wear them !" with quite another inflection. ' That these moet useful and cowiforU" able little X rocks are here for another, and give a character which would often times be otherwise lacking. Dull blue, dull green and violet, that sympathetic color are moet often used In touches of embroidery. Embroidered dots of various sixes are again a much-liked feature, but the embroidery rune toward delicacy ratlier than elabora tion. ' Sklrtp of Jumper dresses are again cut on the side-plaited model or occas ionally circular. As these frocks are for, informal wear, the aklrts are al- 1 S . '4: A--Jumpw (rock of line A with elab orate soutache braiding. Persian mbroiderr on filet net lid tucked bands trim this smart lit tie town.' . " " .... ,v. ' C White linen , with dull blue em broidery: t auEKestion for the use of ' bordered materials. . D Real lace parasol with under lattice-work of white chiffon and chiffon frills. r--- E Handles of Raffia set with Jew els are a summer fad. F Pongee silk, trimmed . with brows leather, with a life-sis parrot riot weather season at least there la bet a shadow of a doubt'; .- And. indeed, one wonder what one did before , these convenient dresses ; were Invented. They are suitable for go many occasions and fill the breach - between the "severely simple" and the 'elaborately frilly" most nobly. We find them shown this spring- In , all styles, all colors, In pearly all ma terials. In many ways they repeat th f Jumper frocks of last summer, out. this . year s models show severe,! new points, j The shaped pier -or -boa -plait Jtunning from yoke to hem, - straight down the , -center -front, the newly-acquired sleeves, the application' of embroidered yokes or yokes of contrasting. materials - below the outout top, the more often used belt which usually ends on either side of the center front all these innova tions mark the 19o8 models. . Silks, voiles and lightweight woolen "materials of all knida will be'useu in these dresses, but the models of linen are particularly attractive and, shown over guimpes of sheer white, lace trimmed end hand-embroidered, look surgesttvely sum mar like. The touches of subdued or vivid col ors, which are; a feature of this year's white ajowns, are seen on jumper dresses of white or ecru linen. Skill fully applied, they are most effective waya walking length. They are roost often mad without trimming eiiept for bias folda. although aomcmea touches of embroidery are discreetly ap plied toward the hem. ' The wain Is are ueually made separ ate and joined to the skirt by various contrivances. Hornet (Tries a narrow cording Is used In making waist and skirt Into one. Sometimes a fitted belt Is frankly lined, but almost Invariably the line from yoke to hem is left un broken In front. If these is a bolt it .slips under this front pleee.-- The opening St the neck tlirrmgh .which the guimpe la seen may be cut almost any shape to suit the designer's taste, and sret be all that is fashionable. For rkound, square and V-shaped open ings are ell used. .Vround this nock opening quite elaborate.trlmmlng is ar ranged. It is sometimes applied in sev Vral overlapping shaped pieces, the same sort of trimming being Used on th? sleeves. No longer is the kimono sleeve seen In up-to-date jumper fror-ks. It tiaa been retired in favor of various models of rape-like sleeves, which sometimes extend quite to the elbow. The white Braiding Is the distinctively smart trimming for all kinds of Jumper dresses. Even a very economical touch of soutache braiding can give an "air" One Thousand Dollars a Set for Parasol Tip s and Handle . , Hand-Painted Ghif fon and ; Leather Trimmed Silk Two Ex travagances in Parasol Coverings G Gold balls nd tasscla are a ' new handle dec oration. - H Silk moui seline, with satin striped border, ' hand painted. not obtainable In snv other way. White soutache braiding on colored linen ap plied on a white dress is often seen among exclusive models. An original uso of braiding Is shown on the figure lettered "A." The skirt la made In striking fashion, each gore benpr laid open over an undorpiece of hesvily braided linen, with worked but tonholes one one side and white braid buttons on th other to suggest a clos ing. The waist part of this dress has the braiding applied in a broad hand tn the sqtisre shape still so fashionable. A short'walsted effect Is ohtalned by the length of unbroken skirt line, which extends to Just below the bust In front. The sleeves aro cape-like affairs, heav ily braided and trimmed with the same style buttons as are used on the skirt. Of very different effect Is the over skirt dress shown In the sketch lettered "C." This Is of eoru linen, embroidered lit dull blue. Will this particular gown was first eu,t and afterwards em broidered, here is very excellent sug gestion for the use of some of the bor dered material which have appeared th-is season In such a charming variety. Finely tucked bonds -of th material of which the gewn Is made 'and bril liantly colored . oriental embroidery on filet net are use fls trimming in the gown lettered "B." Here we hav the popular sldeplaited skirt with the waist attached under a rather wda belt. The sleeves are edged with bands of the tucking snd are themselves composed of the embroidered wllet jnet. Braiding has enters even the domain of the parasol and some of the smartest to gay nothing of the most expensive -spring models of psraaols show bor ders of fine silk braiding In a color harmonizing wjth the color of the parasol. Just now It la a fad to lavish much thought and wulte an appalling amount of " cash upon parasols those necessary accessories to hot weather dress. No gems are too valuable, no workmanship too fine,, to lavish upon- the . tips nnl handles which go to further decorate parasols,- which are already small works of art In beauty of silk and hand-painted chiffon. Handles this year have come In for an unusual amount of attention from tha designers, and I see ones of knobby gold, encrusted with coral, amethysts or more precious jewels heading a long row of parasol handles, which ends, in-cool-looking straight ticks of braided raffia, set sparsely with turquoise or some other inexpensive stones. Gaudy little parrots with plumage of red, green and yellow top other para sol sticks, while the wise looking black cat with big vellow eyes is supposed M bring- good luck to the owner of the parasol whose handle It guards. In Paris the women will amuse themselves and their friends by some Vnlld betting on the "little horses' which -run their miniature ran Inside the crystal ball top of their parasol handles. In others, a secret spring -being touched, the too file open, disclosing a tiny, powder puff and mirror or a diminutive smelling salts bottle. " All kinds of odd materials are this year pressed into th service to make Sarasols. Chiffon Is not considered too iaphanous, . nor leather too heavy or clumsy, for pravlng the sun's strong rays and protecting delicate skins. Brown suede is cut into patterns and applied as a border on pongee silk, the ttoflBU of the parasol being also covered with, the leather. Parasols of mousse line de sot with satin striped borders are exquisitely hand-painted in designs of flowers an trailing vines. The inside of the paraaol is quite as Important just now as the outside, and eomi In for nearly as much decoration. For Instance, it doesn't seam sufflolent that the outside covering should be of almost priceless lac. The under side must he also elaborated with deep hang ing frills of ehtffon and a complicated network of narrow strands of rolled chiffon. A plain taffeta covered para sol will look most demure and unassum ing furled, but let it be raised sud you will find thtf under side a mass of pllsse ruffles of chiffon, lace edged, so fine that they do not make any bulk and most' flattering to the face in their softening effect. All kinds of gold-balled swinging tan re) are attached to parasol handles and this is distinctly a 108 conceit. Seme of them are suggestive of the re sult of schoolgirl's visit to West Point for thev look like nothing so much as the brwis buttons of ths cadets. Others have chte little taffeta bows, their end tipped with gold tassels. Again thev will be decorated with Ion? tassels of chenille, toning In color with the para sol covering. Tha simple parasols of taffeta silk In plain colors with unassuming wood han dle which we in other years considered quite good enough for every-dny use. are this year not to be thoughjL,of by the smart woman. The top covering must he elaborated, the underside decorated, the handle expensive,. with possibly or naments at both ends of the stick, and certaJi-iy trimmed with taasels and bows. This Is undoubtedly season of elaboration, and among parasols it Is felt as well as everywhere else. FAINT HEART AND FAIR - LADY By Pierre Villetard I cgme near marrying an Amer ican girl, saia i-aui Toucn al,d.1.'It If now 15 fears ago. aDendins mv vacation In a llttl town on th lovely shore of .Normandy wher there la always a breex gnd wher the cottage lndiea gather on . th ; beach every, afternoon r to gossip. ' One evenjrigin August, it was between ind'T, we saw far "away a cloul of, smoke nd a little while aft erward Jarg legant steam--xacht come toward us. It anchored, an old ' gentleman and a lady and a young girl went into k boat and cam ashore, ".Excuse .me, sir, but would you pJeaKB tell in th nearest way o the -hotel?" - "' - J .' , . "Hotel fieau-JUvag: I suppose? . '"Yes, sir." - - - , , . It was me whom the young girl ad- Pressed. While J gave her the infor. . ntatlon I looked at her closely. She wks a dark blond with big eyes Which e?med to look straight Into your heart. especially, taken with th pose of her After She had left I could not help thinking of her and J kept thinking of her for a long time. The proprietress of the hotel was an amiable and most 1 eloquent lady, and she was not slow In i selling an in nmMiranvn " - from th servants of the new arrivals. It was not long before I knew that th new guests, th Foggs family, were Americans and that Mr. Foggs had icn.ie an Immense fortune In fur. ' His eu'it jm-ht slone would represent a : 4 i.vtiine'lii Trance. ... "-'- It a rct rijiv.th Arrerlaris cam, 4ou u iu iitti pavilion, built at the foot of the downs close to th beach. Miss Annie Foggs Wre a white dress with short sleeves aud she had th most beautiful arms I ever saw. When she entered there was a pause, but only for a moment, then the people kept on dancing. I went .across th-floor and asked the American gtrl to honor m with a dance. "With the greatest of pleasure," she said. She danced well and never seemed to get tired Three times a week we had a hop in the little pavilion. .Mr'FoP!3 no longer thpught of leav ing, for his daughter whose will was law unto him decided to stay, The Americans and 1 were soon In separable and the old couple were ex ceedingly kind to ma. I do not think they cared to know my business, at least they never asked me Miss Annie and I took long walka to gether every day. W did not ex change "sweet words but both of us knew that deep tn our hearts a feeling was growing which promised fair to develop Into love. None of us cared for tbe gossip ol the other guests and we kept on with our daily walka, although they were far more dangerous te us than th steep cliff which ' the" goats 1 climb'. Suddenly, one day, Annie said: "There is something you want to tell me. Mr. Towhard." "And what should that be," Miss Annlr----r -;. v., -: : Ph looked at me and her .brown eye Were soft as velvet. - ''Yes. J know there Is something you want to (oil me, but you do not dara because you are poor'' i ' v . 'Po you want me to tell- yoa what it Is? . I believe you love roe. Idaro; not say now that. I lov yoa. but I Ilk yoa ImmenteJy. And then there Is an other thing, I'm engaged to marry a young man at New York, but I don't care for him. He Is a miserable dancer and has big ugly hands and thinks too. much of his business and very little of m.'' .' . "Are you going to -break yoor engage ment?'' , , "No; that cannot be done. My father has arranged th marriage, -and he will not break bis promise, especially as my fiance is .th owner of" some of th largest oil wells In th United States," ."Then I do not understand what you mean." ' r "Don't you' understand, Mr. Touchard, -that you are to so with us to New Vorfc, There rny father will givr"yeB a position In hi business and we will see each Other as often as possIbl,7 dear." tloivT'11' 'thr 1rl1' "'r m ' Yes, and be will give you 11,000 a year. That will do for a start." V I looked at her, for I did not at first believe she was In earnest, but on glance at her face was enough to con vlnce me she was. I was young, I loved Miss Annie, and It was not clear; io me wnat a difficult situation I was going Into. ;'l accept the offer, Miss Annie." ' Perhaps I love you, too," she said slowly, looking down Into th sand where she was drawing figures with the point of her parasoL But when r'l her head I- saw two tears in her eyes. . . toTI .evSnln'vM,J. Fo" cm ",," nd shook ray hand. u . Mr. , Foggs; I accept the position you offer' . From that mom ' T was ativ.a wurt Miss Anrrle openly, but tny posl- reatly excited, holding a telegram la only a test she wanted to make to see er hand. whether I was worthy of marrying her. "My fiancee " she stammered. . . Perhaps I let a fortune slip out of my "Is he dead?" hands that dav simnlv because I hesi- "No; it Is much worse than that. He tated. I shall never know." has been falthlras tn ma." And then Miss Annie told' m that the owner of th great oil wells had im seemea rather queer to me when I remembered what ah had said about being engaged already, : " . . .Nevertheless. I epent two happy weeks with her. We took long wiiks Jn the pine woods and along the shor admiring, the beautiful nature. A few times she allowed me te klas her band, but that was alt ' . . J. vg aajr sne oaae running up to ma. I Will; t , ' married a Creole rlrl from Cincinnati. X will atart anew this morning with a who was a chorus girl in the bargain. - higher, fairer creed: "Imagine, a colored girl! H pre- J WU cease to stand complaining of my fers a colored girl to rne." . . ruthles neighbor's greed: Suddenly she burst out: "Win Tou I will cease to sit repining while my marry me?" duty's call is clear. ' "Oh. Miss Annie, you know that I I will, waste no moment whining and would consider that the happiest mo- . my heart shall know no fear, tnent In my life." ' , 'Well, then, we will marry 5-tbere Ijslll look sometimes about me for the Is only one thing I demand- A s6on , ,tnli1" tht merit, praise; as wo are in the United States you. Wlu search for hidden beauties that raust challenge that sooundrel. f "love"IZj'e,ude M gambler's gare; you with all my heart, dear, but I oan- Will try to find contentment In the not allow anyone to insult me as be . ,,,Pth" t'I must tread, has -done.'' --- I WW eease- to have resentment wben I confess that I did not answer im- another moves ahead- m.rll.Tlllv X'Vi a f .h. wAnAa m A A Seemed too -- ghastly. To risk one's I will not be swayed by envy when my sweetheart's .life simply eeause one's rival s strength is shown: feelings were hurt wag a thing 1 did 1 wll" Pot de"y merit, but I'll strive not understand. V to prove my own; Miss Annie noticed my ' hesitation 1 wlu try to see the beauty spread be and turned pala Her eyes shot fire. . fore ms, rain or shine . - "WelL -what is your answerT' she will ceas to preagh your duty and be asked.. She did -not give me tints to a m?fi concerned with mine reply. Her white teeth glistened and r E- Kiser, in Chicago Becord-Herald I -can hear even now. "tier niocking - """V- 1 ' . 11 111 i- I, understsnd you. You do iot of Criminal,.. v 'love me enough to risk, your life for-- A. grim epitaph, perhaps unexampled, s my 1 sake., Oood-bye.'f', With these Is to be found in the eemetery of Deb words she picked up her dress In both rescln, eastern Hungary. ' . "bands and ran away from me. . It reads as follows; ''Her rest In the : Whea I woke up the next morning Lord Joseph Morits, senior, who died in I looked through my window-for Ahe his sixty-second year. He was shot by yacht. It was not there and some nf his son., Frau Joseph Morits, who died tne iisnermen toia me jt naa icti aur- in- nor lorty-seventn year. , Hhe . was mi in nigni. - said Paul 'fcgaln visited the little town of Nor- Joseph Morltx, who died in prison, age, mandy and I have never seen, the 27. He had shot his father. May' Fo.S?s: Annie. , - sternal mercy have pity on their poor, "But ae.l have grown older I have sinful sonls. - - " j -.-" - -v - ' thought a good deal of this affair. Pet-: The last of this unfortunate family haps the American fiancee, the telegram left a sum of i 1.600 for1 the purpose of amd the brsaklng off of our lov was setting up this menjorlai. , ' . WOMEN AND SENSATIONAL ' TRIALS By Mrs. Jokn A. Logan (Ooprrifbt, 1908, by W. B. Heant.) who has committed such gross lmmor- IN a celebrated trial of a woman tles as she assuredly Te not guilt murderess which occurred tn Wash- " , . ,. ... . ,. . . A spontaneous wave of sympathy has Ington a few years ago. I had ee- ,Wept over the country for thU "put caalon to comment upon the pres- raged woman," who cannot claim to ene of wtnen end young girls In bevs been an unBophlstloated girl, ig th , .v. -.i -a norant of ths world end the wile of the courtroom during tbe recital ex -o,,,.,, flocked to th courtroom mest disgusting evidence. . and sat unblushlnglr through the te- There has been a repetition of the dlous examination and cross-examina-same morbid desire on the part of ftW "on witnesses . ia in k. " -nra.h Seemingly "they- ware -unconscious sf and young women in ths city f Wash- , fao Va they lent their presence ington to bear every word In the sen--to the last scene In a tragedy which eatlonat testimony in the trial at Mra-Wi the legtllraata gonsegunces pf int; Annie M. Bradley for ths murder of moral life rnien iia me ii naa leti aur- in - ner loriy-sevenin year. , ne . was night. , - ' ' , ? , "hot daughter. Elisabeth Morits,. Is now my love affair ended." who died by her own band rn her seven ul Touchard. - "I hav never teenth year, after shooting her mother. .r.8.n.tAr Thrown of TTtsh In tha TtaJ-" .'-t roving tnat JJrown was a orute aoes eigh hotel more than a year ago! ' n?,lt2nn;n?hieantrte ttZV uZJX Attorneys-at-law who desired to bear Snf.re'u ni. nfa r aH.m wiiwlI the proceedings as a matter' of Interest fi'ifL'A Pon' 1 hme with a to lawyers hav been unable o get In the court on account Tof the crowds of Brgdley may have been irrespon- women who have filled the courtroom slble at tbe particular moment when she and who have listened eagerly to every fired tbe fatal shot, but shs was sane word of the witnesses, tbe counsel for during tbe long years In which she the defendant and -the prosecution. lived with Browiv-and was known as an Women have exhibited the keenest exceptionally Intelligent woman. Dur- relish for the shocking details ef the tne these years her mod of life was a grlsoner's own story of ber Malaon with KfeM crime against society for this shs irown. . should be punished. -..v . s All the letters Introduced were sped- A law should be passed prohibiting mens of the most unbridled voluptu women from attending trials of ever? ousness. The unblushing deUlls of the character whatsoever; - they should not chrtstpolng of her son and Brown's i sott be allowed to be present In anv court while she - was living with Bradley, unless on trial themselves, or their was absolutely revolt ng. - families, fluch experiences tend only to Her dramatic description, of Brown's harden women, and in many instances cruelty and desertion of her so affgeted there Is a better, a mer - vital reason ,i..h5 tht .th1!i m.e',t, los why they should be excluded from ths ' sight of years of sinful association with courtroom, i - ' Brown and of the outrages upon Mrs. In the ordinary course of event Brewn and- society of which she had everyone Is sufficiently acquainted wlth bn guilty.. i grief .snij the Ills thgt "flesh, 1 heir That Brown was a monster there. lo without being in? evidence at the Is weU rid, of his like, no enatter -hew follow to femininity as a result of I th th removal takes place. , But a woman trlai laf Aaala M-i Bradisy. - 4 i V -
