THE OREGON " SUNDAY JOURNAL', PORTLAND, . 'SUNDAY MORNING, MV 17, 1808.
Copyright, 1908, by Americas-Examiner. Great Britain Rifbts Reserved.'
jtJ
The-Jumper Dress, ev
ieral Novel Additions, Promises
5 to Have a Continued Vogue
Tins SummerParasols in New
and Striking Designs
Shown in Great Variety
IHBleBllIp 'f .
V
.' KD again the Jurnptr Onim! ' .
A Wis women who neglected to"
plan them for their "; summer
wardrobe "they ' will ". fee so
dreadfully common, - every one
wtll wear them rv--muat now
hasten to .repair their ommisilon. for
lt a case of "everyone' will wear
them !" with quite another inflection. '
That these moet useful and cowiforU"
able little X rocks are here for another,
and give a character which would often
times be otherwise lacking. Dull blue,
dull green and violet, that sympathetic
color are moet often used In touches
of embroidery. Embroidered dots of
various sixes are again a much-liked
feature, but the embroidery rune
toward delicacy ratlier than elabora
tion. ' Sklrtp of Jumper dresses are again
cut on the side-plaited model or occas
ionally circular. As these frocks are
for, informal wear, the aklrts are al-
1
S .
'4:
A--Jumpw (rock of line A with elab
orate soutache braiding.
Persian mbroiderr on filet net
lid tucked bands trim this smart lit
tie town.' . " " .... ,v. '
C White linen , with dull blue em
broidery: t auEKestion for the use of
' bordered materials.
. D Real lace parasol with under
lattice-work of white chiffon and
chiffon frills. r---
E Handles of Raffia set with Jew
els are a summer fad.
F Pongee silk, trimmed . with
brows leather, with a life-sis parrot
riot weather season at least there la
bet a shadow of a doubt';
.- And. indeed, one wonder what one
did before , these convenient dresses
; were Invented. They are suitable for
go many occasions and fill the breach
- between the "severely simple" and the
'elaborately frilly" most nobly.
We find them shown this spring- In
, all styles, all colors, In pearly all ma
terials. In many ways they repeat th
f Jumper frocks of last summer, out. this
. year s models show severe,! new points,
j The shaped pier -or -boa -plait Jtunning
from yoke to hem, - straight down the
, -center -front, the newly-acquired sleeves,
the application' of embroidered yokes or
yokes of contrasting. materials - below
the outout top, the more often used
belt which usually ends on either side
of the center front all these innova
tions mark the 19o8 models. .
Silks, voiles and lightweight woolen
"materials of all knida will be'useu in
these dresses, but the models of linen
are particularly attractive and, shown
over guimpes of sheer white, lace
trimmed end hand-embroidered, look
surgesttvely sum mar like.
The touches of subdued or vivid col
ors, which are; a feature of this year's
white ajowns, are seen on jumper
dresses of white or ecru linen. Skill
fully applied, they are most effective
waya walking length. They are roost
often mad without trimming eiiept
for bias folda. although aomcmea
touches of embroidery are discreetly ap
plied toward the hem.
' The wain Is are ueually made separ
ate and joined to the skirt by various
contrivances. Hornet (Tries a narrow
cording Is used In making waist and
skirt Into one. Sometimes a fitted belt
Is frankly lined, but almost Invariably
the line from yoke to hem is left un
broken In front. If these is a bolt it
.slips under this front pleee.--
The opening St the neck tlirrmgh
.which the guimpe la seen may be cut
almost any shape to suit the designer's
taste, and sret be all that is fashionable.
For rkound, square and V-shaped open
ings are ell used. .Vround this nock
opening quite elaborate.trlmmlng is ar
ranged. It is sometimes applied in sev
Vral overlapping shaped pieces, the
same sort of trimming being Used on
th? sleeves.
No longer is the kimono sleeve seen
In up-to-date jumper fror-ks. It tiaa
been retired in favor of various models
of rape-like sleeves, which sometimes
extend quite to the elbow. The white
Braiding Is the distinctively smart
trimming for all kinds of Jumper
dresses. Even a very economical touch
of soutache braiding can give an "air"
One Thousand Dollars a Set for
Parasol Tip s and Handle . ,
Hand-Painted Ghif fon and ;
Leather Trimmed Silk Two Ex
travagances in Parasol Coverings
G Gold balls
nd tasscla are a
' new handle dec
oration. - H Silk moui
seline, with satin
striped border,
' hand painted.
not obtainable In snv other way. White
soutache braiding on colored linen ap
plied on a white dress is often seen
among exclusive models.
An original uso of braiding Is shown
on the figure lettered "A." The skirt
la made In striking fashion, each gore
benpr laid open over an undorpiece of
hesvily braided linen, with worked but
tonholes one one side and white braid
buttons on th other to suggest a clos
ing. The waist part of this dress has
the braiding applied in a broad hand tn
the sqtisre shape still so fashionable.
A short'walsted effect Is ohtalned by
the length of unbroken skirt line, which
extends to Just below the bust In front.
The sleeves aro cape-like affairs, heav
ily braided and trimmed with the same
style buttons as are used on the skirt.
Of very different effect Is the over
skirt dress shown In the sketch lettered
"C." This Is of eoru linen, embroidered
lit dull blue. Will this particular
gown was first eu,t and afterwards em
broidered, here is very excellent sug
gestion for the use of some of the bor
dered material which have appeared
th-is season In such a charming variety.
Finely tucked bonds -of th material
of which the gewn Is made 'and bril
liantly colored . oriental embroidery on
filet net are use fls trimming in the
gown lettered "B." Here we hav the
popular sldeplaited skirt with the waist
attached under a rather wda belt. The
sleeves are edged with bands of the
tucking snd are themselves composed of
the embroidered wllet jnet.
Braiding has enters even the domain
of the parasol and some of the smartest
to gay nothing of the most expensive
-spring models of psraaols show bor
ders of fine silk braiding In a color
harmonizing wjth the color of the parasol.
Just now It la a fad to lavish much
thought and wulte an appalling amount
of " cash upon parasols those necessary
accessories to hot weather dress. No
gems are too valuable, no workmanship
too fine,, to lavish upon- the . tips nnl
handles which go to further decorate
parasols,- which are already small works
of art In beauty of silk and hand-painted
chiffon.
Handles this year have come In for an
unusual amount of attention from tha
designers, and I see ones of knobby
gold, encrusted with coral, amethysts
or more precious jewels heading a long
row of parasol handles, which ends, in-cool-looking
straight ticks of braided
raffia, set sparsely with turquoise or
some other inexpensive stones.
Gaudy little parrots with plumage of
red, green and yellow top other para
sol sticks, while the wise looking black
cat with big vellow eyes is supposed M
bring- good luck to the owner of the
parasol whose handle It guards. In
Paris the women will amuse themselves
and their friends by some Vnlld betting
on the "little horses' which -run their
miniature ran Inside the crystal ball
top of their parasol handles. In others,
a secret spring -being touched, the too
file open, disclosing a tiny, powder puff
and mirror or a diminutive smelling
salts bottle.
" All kinds of odd materials are this
year pressed into th service to make
Sarasols. Chiffon Is not considered too
iaphanous, . nor leather too heavy or
clumsy, for pravlng the sun's strong
rays and protecting delicate skins.
Brown suede is cut into patterns and
applied as a border on pongee silk, the
ttoflBU of the parasol being also covered
with, the leather. Parasols of mousse
line de sot with satin striped borders
are exquisitely hand-painted in designs
of flowers an trailing vines.
The inside of the paraaol is quite as
Important just now as the outside, and
eomi In for nearly as much decoration.
For Instance, it doesn't seam sufflolent
that the outside covering should be of
almost priceless lac. The under side
must he also elaborated with deep hang
ing frills of ehtffon and a complicated
network of narrow strands of rolled
chiffon. A plain taffeta covered para
sol will look most demure and unassum
ing furled, but let it be raised sud you
will find thtf under side a mass of pllsse
ruffles of chiffon, lace edged, so fine
that they do not make any bulk and
most' flattering to the face in their
softening effect.
All kinds of gold-balled swinging tan
re) are attached to parasol handles
and this is distinctly a 108 conceit.
Seme of them are suggestive of the re
sult of schoolgirl's visit to West Point
for thev look like nothing so much as
the brwis buttons of ths cadets. Others
have chte little taffeta bows, their end
tipped with gold tassels. Again thev
will be decorated with Ion? tassels of
chenille, toning In color with the para
sol covering.
Tha simple parasols of taffeta silk In
plain colors with unassuming wood han
dle which we in other years considered
quite good enough for every-dny use.
are this year not to be thoughjL,of by the
smart woman. The top covering must
he elaborated, the underside decorated,
the handle expensive,. with possibly or
naments at both ends of the stick, and
certaJi-iy trimmed with taasels and
bows. This Is undoubtedly season of
elaboration, and among parasols it Is
felt as well as everywhere else.
FAINT HEART AND FAIR
- LADY By Pierre Villetard
I
cgme near marrying an Amer
ican girl, saia i-aui Toucn
al,d.1.'It If now 15 fears ago.
aDendins mv vacation In
a llttl town on th lovely shore of
.Normandy wher there la always a
breex gnd wher the cottage lndiea
gather on . th ; beach every, afternoon
r to gossip. ' One evenjrigin August, it
was between ind'T, we saw far "away
a cloul of, smoke nd a little while aft
erward Jarg legant steam--xacht
come toward us. It anchored, an old
' gentleman and a lady and a young girl
went into k boat and cam ashore,
".Excuse .me, sir, but would you
pJeaKB tell in th nearest way o the
-hotel?" - "' - J .' ,
. "Hotel fieau-JUvag: I suppose? .
'"Yes, sir." - - - , , .
It was me whom the young girl ad-
Pressed. While J gave her the infor.
. ntatlon I looked at her closely. She
wks a dark blond with big eyes Which
e?med to look straight Into your heart.
especially, taken with th pose of her
After She had left I could not help
thinking of her and J kept thinking of
her for a long time. The proprietress
of the hotel was an amiable and most
1 eloquent lady, and she was not slow In
i selling an in nmMiranvn "
- from th servants of the new arrivals.
It was not long before I knew that th
new guests, th Foggs family, were
Americans and that Mr. Foggs had
icn.ie an Immense fortune In fur. ' His
eu'it jm-ht slone would represent a :
4 i.vtiine'lii Trance. ... "-'-
It a rct rijiv.th Arrerlaris cam,
4ou u iu iitti pavilion, built at the
foot of the downs close to th beach.
Miss Annie Foggs Wre a white dress
with short sleeves aud she had th
most beautiful arms I ever saw. When
she entered there was a pause, but only
for a moment, then the people kept on
dancing. I went .across th-floor and
asked the American gtrl to honor m
with a dance.
"With the greatest of pleasure," she
said.
She danced well and never seemed to
get tired
Three times a week we had a hop in
the little pavilion.
.Mr'FoP!3 no longer thpught of leav
ing, for his daughter whose will was
law unto him decided to stay,
The Americans and 1 were soon In
separable and the old couple were ex
ceedingly kind to ma.
I do not think they cared to know my
business, at least they never asked me
Miss Annie and I took long walka to
gether every day. W did not ex
change "sweet words but both of us
knew that deep tn our hearts a feeling
was growing which promised fair to
develop Into love.
None of us cared for tbe gossip ol the
other guests and we kept on with our
daily walka, although they were far
more dangerous te us than th steep
cliff which ' the" goats 1 climb'.
Suddenly, one day, Annie said:
"There is something you want to tell
me. Mr. Towhard."
"And what should that be," Miss
Annlr----r -;. v., -:
: Ph looked at me and her .brown eye
Were soft as velvet.
- ''Yes. J know there Is something you
want to (oil me, but you do not dara
because you are poor'' i ' v .
'Po you want me to tell- yoa what
it Is? . I believe you love roe. Idaro;
not say now that. I lov yoa. but I Ilk
yoa ImmenteJy. And then there Is an
other thing, I'm engaged to marry a
young man at New York, but I don't
care for him. He Is a miserable dancer
and has big ugly hands and thinks too.
much of his business and very little
of m.'' .' .
"Are you going to -break yoor engage
ment?'' , ,
"No; that cannot be done. My father
has arranged th marriage, -and he will
not break bis promise, especially as my
fiance is .th owner of" some of th
largest oil wells In th United States,"
."Then I do not understand what you
mean." ' r
"Don't you' understand, Mr. Touchard, -that
you are to so with us to New
Vorfc, There rny father will givr"yeB
a position In hi business and we will
see each Other as often as possIbl,7
dear."
tloivT'11' 'thr 1rl1' "'r m
' Yes, and be will give you 11,000 a
year. That will do for a start." V
I looked at her, for I did not at first
believe she was In earnest, but on
glance at her face was enough to con
vlnce me she was. I was young, I
loved Miss Annie, and It was not clear;
io me wnat a difficult situation I was
going Into.
;'l accept the offer, Miss Annie." '
Perhaps I love you, too," she said
slowly, looking down Into th sand
where she was drawing figures with
the point of her parasoL But when
r'l her head I- saw two tears
in her eyes. . .
toTI .evSnln'vM,J. Fo" cm
",," nd shook ray hand.
u . Mr. , Foggs; I accept the
position you offer'
. From that mom ' T was ativ.a
wurt Miss Anrrle openly, but tny posl-
reatly excited, holding a telegram la only a test she wanted to make to see
er hand. whether I was worthy of marrying her.
"My fiancee " she stammered. . . Perhaps I let a fortune slip out of my
"Is he dead?" hands that dav simnlv because I hesi-
"No; it Is much worse than that. He tated. I shall never know."
has been falthlras tn ma."
And then Miss Annie told' m that
the owner of th great oil wells had
im seemea rather queer to me when
I remembered what ah had said about
being engaged already, : " . .
.Nevertheless. I epent two happy
weeks with her. We took long wiiks
Jn the pine woods and along the shor
admiring, the beautiful nature. A few
times she allowed me te klas her band,
but that was alt ' . . J.
vg aajr sne oaae running up to ma.
I Will; t , '
married a Creole rlrl from Cincinnati. X will atart anew this morning with a
who was a chorus girl in the bargain. - higher, fairer creed:
"Imagine, a colored girl! H pre- J WU cease to stand complaining of my
fers a colored girl to rne." . . ruthles neighbor's greed:
Suddenly she burst out: "Win Tou I will cease to sit repining while my
marry me?" duty's call is clear.
' "Oh. Miss Annie, you know that I I will, waste no moment whining and
would consider that the happiest mo- . my heart shall know no fear,
tnent In my life." ' ,
'Well, then, we will marry 5-tbere Ijslll look sometimes about me for the
Is only one thing I demand- A s6on , ,tnli1" tht merit, praise;
as wo are in the United States you. Wlu search for hidden beauties that
raust challenge that sooundrel. f "love"IZj'e,ude M gambler's gare;
you with all my heart, dear, but I oan- Will try to find contentment In the
not allow anyone to insult me as be . ,,,Pth" t'I must tread,
has -done.'' --- I WW eease- to have resentment wben
I confess that I did not answer im- another moves ahead-
m.rll.Tlllv X'Vi a f .h. wAnAa m A A
Seemed too -- ghastly. To risk one's I will not be swayed by envy when my
sweetheart's .life simply eeause one's rival s strength is shown:
feelings were hurt wag a thing 1 did 1 wll" Pot de"y merit, but I'll strive
not understand. V to prove my own;
Miss Annie noticed my ' hesitation 1 wlu try to see the beauty spread be
and turned pala Her eyes shot fire. . fore ms, rain or shine .
- "WelL -what is your answerT' she will ceas to preagh your duty and be
asked.. She did -not give me tints to a m?fi concerned with mine
reply. Her white teeth glistened and r E- Kiser, in Chicago Becord-Herald
I -can hear even now. "tier niocking - """V- 1 ' . 11 111 i-
I, understsnd you. You do iot of Criminal,.. v
'love me enough to risk, your life for-- A. grim epitaph, perhaps unexampled,
s my 1 sake., Oood-bye.'f', With these Is to be found in the eemetery of Deb
words she picked up her dress In both rescln, eastern Hungary. ' .
"bands and ran away from me. . It reads as follows; ''Her rest In the
: Whea I woke up the next morning Lord Joseph Morits, senior, who died in
I looked through my window-for Ahe his sixty-second year. He was shot by
yacht. It was not there and some nf his son., Frau Joseph Morits, who died
tne iisnermen toia me jt naa icti aur- in- nor lorty-seventn year. , Hhe . was
mi in nigni. -
said Paul
'fcgaln visited the little town of Nor- Joseph Morltx, who died in prison, age,
mandy and I have never seen, the 27. He had shot his father. May'
Fo.S?s: Annie. , - sternal mercy have pity on their poor,
"But ae.l have grown older I have sinful sonls. - - " j -.-" - -v - '
thought a good deal of this affair. Pet-: The last of this unfortunate family
haps the American fiancee, the telegram left a sum of i 1.600 for1 the purpose of
amd the brsaklng off of our lov was setting up this menjorlai. , ' .
WOMEN AND SENSATIONAL
' TRIALS By Mrs. Jokn A. Logan
(Ooprrifbt, 1908, by W. B. Heant.) who has committed such gross lmmor-
IN a celebrated trial of a woman tles as she assuredly Te not guilt
murderess which occurred tn Wash- " , . ,. ...
. ,. . . A spontaneous wave of sympathy has
Ington a few years ago. I had ee- ,Wept over the country for thU "put
caalon to comment upon the pres- raged woman," who cannot claim to
ene of wtnen end young girls In bevs been an unBophlstloated girl, ig
th , .v. -.i -a norant of ths world end the wile of
the courtroom during tbe recital ex -o,,,.,, flocked to th courtroom
mest disgusting evidence. . and sat unblushlnglr through the te-
There has been a repetition of the dlous examination and cross-examina-same
morbid desire on the part of ftW "on witnesses .
ia in k. " -nra.h Seemingly "they- ware -unconscious sf
and young women in ths city f Wash- , fao Va they lent their presence
ington to bear every word In the sen--to the last scene In a tragedy which
eatlonat testimony in the trial at Mra-Wi the legtllraata gonsegunces pf int;
Annie M. Bradley for ths murder of
moral life
rnien iia me ii naa leti aur- in - ner loriy-sevenin year. , ne . was
night. , - ' ' , ? , "hot daughter. Elisabeth Morits,.
Is now my love affair ended." who died by her own band rn her seven
ul Touchard. - "I hav never teenth year, after shooting her mother.
.r.8.n.tAr Thrown of TTtsh In tha TtaJ-" .'-t roving tnat JJrown was a orute aoes
eigh hotel more than a year ago! ' n?,lt2nn;n?hieantrte ttZV uZJX
Attorneys-at-law who desired to bear Snf.re'u ni. nfa r aH.m wiiwlI
the proceedings as a matter' of Interest fi'ifL'A Pon' 1 hme with a
to lawyers hav been unable o get In
the court on account Tof the crowds of Brgdley may have been irrespon-
women who have filled the courtroom slble at tbe particular moment when she
and who have listened eagerly to every fired tbe fatal shot, but shs was sane
word of the witnesses, tbe counsel for during tbe long years In which she
the defendant and -the prosecution. lived with Browiv-and was known as an
Women have exhibited the keenest exceptionally Intelligent woman. Dur-
relish for the shocking details ef the tne these years her mod of life was a
grlsoner's own story of ber Malaon with KfeM crime against society for this shs
irown. . should be punished. -..v . s
All the letters Introduced were sped- A law should be passed prohibiting
mens of the most unbridled voluptu women from attending trials of ever?
ousness. The unblushing deUlls of the character whatsoever; - they should not
chrtstpolng of her son and Brown's i sott be allowed to be present In anv court
while she - was living with Bradley, unless on trial themselves, or their
was absolutely revolt ng. - families, fluch experiences tend only to
Her dramatic description, of Brown's harden women, and in many instances
cruelty and desertion of her so affgeted there Is a better, a mer - vital reason
,i..h5 tht .th1!i m.e',t, los why they should be excluded from ths '
sight of years of sinful association with courtroom, i - '
Brown and of the outrages upon Mrs. In the ordinary course of event
Brewn and- society of which she had everyone Is sufficiently acquainted wlth
bn guilty.. i grief .snij the Ills thgt "flesh, 1 heir
That Brown was a monster there. lo without being in? evidence at the
Is weU rid, of his like, no enatter -hew follow to femininity as a result of I th
th removal takes place. , But a woman trlai laf Aaala M-i Bradisy. -
4
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