Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (May 3, 1908)
THE pREGfrN 'SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTL ANP SUNDAY MORNING, MAY- 08. mm w u - -v Tlie Overskirt Is ing in Popularity-: trically Cut and Elaborately Trimmed French Jackets Are Worn With ,Un trimmed Skirts 1 p there's one thing" thai i of mure importance than the front of the "Easter gfrls gown, It is the beck of It. . No longer is It as it was "In the Olden days" when all the thought arid trimming were lavished on the front : . ot a dress or suit, and the bach was left t lake rare of Itself. Now the sue cessf ul' designing of the back of a cos- tame is oftentimes of the first impor ' , tance, for it Is there that opportunity offers for all kinds of npveltles. Wlt- hesa the Empire hark with Its quaint, ' hlgh-walatad girdle and pretty conceits ; of buckles and modish little bows. No- tlee, too, the fashionable jackets of to .? day with their over-elaborated buelts, covered with braiding,' the short-wai.ued lines accentuated by button and braid ' er satin ornament. V , Waists of flimsy white materials are : AO longer made with fronts a muss ot line embroidery and carefully put to gether laces, and the backs left for saken with just a few meager tucks. The smart waist of this summer's ward robe shows the back a complete dupli cate of the front, tuck for tuck, late for lace. - Sad news for the clever girl who 'i makes her own blouses. Hut satisfying to the eye. . A charming back effect is shown in the sketch lettered "C." In fact, the : whole gown is on. simple but most ef-""ei-ttve 'lines, and Is a model "not at all Impossible of successful copying by an ordinarily clever home dressmaker. The original was made of stiver gray ilk cashmere and rombiiiwi many of the latest effects In the sartorial world. .'.'. It had the semi-Empire back, the skirt Strikingly Grow- Verv E Many, Models of Draped Gowns Are Among the .Very Newest ImportationsFour Yokes of En tirely . )iff ereht .Materials All res si satin ribbon which ends' in smashing bow with fish-tail ends Under the left ear or at the backnever In front.. AVorn by a pretty woman 4 they- are charming, framing tlie-1 face In delicate outline, and they seem to quite , ult the quaint gowns the tailors and dress makers are each day turning out. The new model suits seem more ec centric than ever as to -coats, flklrtg ate plaited or plain, escaping the ground well for street wear, and are sometime unostentatiously trimmed, with wide folds stitched on at the top. But hang' Ing loose at the bottom. Braiding Is really o.ult the smartest trimming ccen- t&rzrz- iiii ii i ! a, 'IOMsiBieii m If ill riff I I :;!! iii!P,lijl 'iiiii !!-!: M H fine soutache braiding, put on In Intri cate design. You ice, there is nothing very sensational in the way of suit skirts. But my wordt as our Kngllsh friends would say, the little jackets do make up for them! I use the word little advisedly, for such, slight, soft things the coats of today aref Tailors have discarded canvas and padding and make no pretense of "tit "everything is In the "hang." . Hheulder seams seem to be things or the past and Sleeves and jackets are all eut in one, -with, of course, no iiuium in me turn or the arm. In fact, each day, sees sleeves molded more tightly to ,tlie arm, although, thank heaven! fashion has decreed that elbow length or three-quarter sleeves will be Worn until the autumn at least. After that only the very wise dare prophesy. Two kinds of Moths of not neces sarily the same shade Are often found combined cleverly In a suit. A very riood Illustration, of this may be seen l the figure lettered "B." Here is the Checked . cloth ' which will In the near future entirely supersede the monotrw , nous strides. Of khaki color, a shade over which Paris Is Just now hsVlnk fits of Joy, with a little darker over check, It Is trimmed wtth a quite de- . cldedly darker plain cloth around the : bottom of the skirt. The little coat, iUon In effort. Is ot tus same plain cloth. It has epaulet . effects formed of the dark cloth, over the tos of the sleeves, which are of the checked cloth. In the back two long, slim coattatls are slipped under a belt and hang; tar down on thn skirt. Both the skirt and the jacket sre heavily braided In soutache braid, and a narrow rolled collar nnd how of orange-Colored satin give a piquant touch of Vivid color. ji..noi)gh the lingerie waist t again worn this season under jackets, and is. If possible, more sheer and diaphanous than ever, no longer are we to be al lowed glimpses ' of charming lacy I in - fterle and gleaming satin ribbons, for ilgh-necked underwalsts of flesii-colored silk Jersey will hide all their dntnttnes. Hut on second consideration it is per haps Just as well, for 1 hear that threading white lingerie with black ribbons Is a coming fad. We shall be pared that funeral sight, at any rale. apparently htiTtntKvr oHr car h hl', ti e Bleeve cut In one with the .rest el in w'Stst. the softly tntiling Hkirt, th. juk,, folded girdle ami llio -shaped ok' or lace, hack and .ront a fashion not new, but one which is too generally becom ing to be hantily discarded. The !' touch of relieving color win gl-n in the silk embroidered bands which edged tlie yoke and trimmed the sleovcs They combined dull blue, pink and gold with a sure and happy effect. Although the day of draped effects In gowns has not dawned witlf nj- par ticular burst of (tiory dn this, shlc of the Atlantic, still each day's spring sun Hhlne points out another model come to Join the family of these artistic crea tions. For that a gown depending for erro-M on Its "Killful droning, if Well i ' ' i f. ix ;i Hun- of deputy nohody can "'eiiy Ii harily done but way talk about unfortunate things': A very skillful bit of draping Is shown on the figure In the middle of the page. The SK.it has one of the overskirt ef f'cts. i lie vogite for which will "grow wtth tlie warm weather, it is undoubt edly designed for a woman of slender figure. Hut who. now. with nny pre tense of beinp faphlonnhle, owns tn hips? They are extinct as the dodo. The ricturf sque high waist line Is again Heen In thin gown, but with the differ ence that it does not become higher In the .uk. Four yokes, all of different fabrics, lire not too many .o form part of your n three1 vou must have at th very least. In ibis gown lace, tucked tulle and again lace, but of a different mesh, frono tue overlaying yokes, Which are, of course, sheer. In alt the lately oisplayed roiu it is plainly seen that yokes will play quite an important pert during the coming months as in those past. Yokes of lace, of tucked tulle, of nei sna or V-shaped, they will be cut In all shapes, but not so deep as those seen In the dresses of the past Winter. The very high collars with points running up be hind the ears which worn etK have been torturing themselves by wearing are al ready being modified. They still rise high In the back, but In a gentle slope, and the sham nolnts are absent. This 1 of silk tier with dots scattered Ms Siieotv p nt sMlf-nrsajtrvoMtn fnr far apart, will all he Used. Klesh-col- who could have borne those chokers orea net. stretched tightly to form a yoke without luck or Insertion, Is seen In msny gowns sent dut from Paris for wear on formal occasions and very ef fective It is. As to the share of the yoke. It may be whatever your fancy dictates, and yet be fashionable. Square, round, oval -or around during the hot weather months? Kaster always brings some novelty In neckwear.; Women must have some thing to take the place, of the furs they lay aside. This year great flaunting ruffs at tulle, plaited in airy fashion. re Being, worn. They fit up tightly me throat, being attached to a ANIMALS LIKE MUSIC ' . i-iy V, DaubrwM In fjt Revue. The tatrsurdlnary musical -sensitive- . rie.e of spiders baa several times been proved. 'Kery one bs heard Of Fellis iMiVspMtrr. ,HCohsrjlev if th -unfortii-' rats rriauiiur, it- JJti Ishvii - because It .' , teu&eJ too. closaly to the captive" lo lln. The Jailer -saw It and crushed It brutally. - Oretry, the composer, speaks or a fa vorite spider which descended along its thread upon- his piano as soon as 1:-) played it. When giving recitals at Hrtrs sels RUbinstein saw a large spider iu from the floor of the platform and Hk ten to the music. He gave three con certs at the, same hall and on each occasion the Spider appeared. lnnectslH general, t hough es'en tlve to music, do not object to It. Fishes betray little or no interest in music. Kverybody. on tb other hand, probably knows that music Is often used in order to attract snakes from therr hiding, places. - - The Indians catch Iguanas.,-' In that manner, and there Is an experiment that we can all make to dernontrate the truth . of the matter. If a violin or piano is played whenever there is a lizard visible U ' lizard will stop and listen with obvious pleasure as long as the music lasts. It Is a well known fact that In those countries where oxen are used for labor they take great pleasure In the singing of their driver. Ttiev work better t the plough when mtirred by a cheerful song. Arabs sine to their camels during long Journeys neros the desert. Horses are particularly sensitive to music, riuehoftr whv carefully1 studied the mattef, nuotes the following curious fact; "In 1893 the Fifty-eighth regl- fient of infantry was making a militarv et . Inarch When the music struck UP The roups horse O' fantaJiv De n-i-haatened forward and placed itself. In Pit of its rider, .behind Uu last xaak of t ho mitsloUnp. Then It followed peacefully, giving obvious signs of pleasure " iien the music censed the captain v ns able to resume his place at the bead of his company, wit the band struck up BRain, and the horse, notwith standing the efforts of Captain Pe. . galloped ahead and ones more placed itself behind the musicians. This iiaj.pened every time th hand played," I-toiis hflve been fou rid to listen w-llh marked Joj to thh piano. They appre ciate Die top notes and the medium, but roar terribly when the bass keys are struck loudly. Scarlatti, the Italian composer, owned a cat which loved to walk on the kevs of a piano arm struck certain notes In iirinnirn 10 oiners. The composer took those notes as the theme of one of his fugues, which, for that reason, received the name of "The Cat Fugue." I have seen many cats walk up and down the keyboard, showing obvious pleasure at the sound thus produced. The writer knowa of a do that will i. n Jntf'",t.lv and e'lently to all melo dies, but displays every symptom of pain and agony at the sound of a chro-t matle scale. This dog becomes ouiet as soon ss the melody is agalfr taken up: 11 '".only the succession of semitone Which makes So extraordinary an im prPMInf) upon it. t know of snothef dog which Is fond of organ music, but walls terribly as soon as the Vox ' Celeste ston Is used. .5 . '. . - If n wished to make serlos STcperl-men-t:in,musirai psychnlogv. the dog "'"' ""i- oouni nrov me most Inter MtSng gtudy, -4 bm nxU( too, would; be fascinating. Darwin mentions a gihbon which was able trt sing a com plete octave, and It is known that black chlmpansees will gather to the number of from JO to So and form a kind of orchestra, beating pieces of hollow wood with sticks for their own pleasure. SMOKED PIPE i00 YEARS From the Kansas' City Star. At the foot of Lafayette avenue, Kan sas City, Kansas, lives a hegro woman who says sheris 125 year old and that she can prove It: , lire. Nancy Gordon is her name. She was born near Alexan dria, Virginia, about 1712. She was she moved to It little truck natch Jn Warren county, Mississippi. She, with her son, moved to Kansas City, Kansas, 14 years ago. She Is wrinkled and rheu matic, but still retains all her faculties. She (s an ardent Methodist and ex pounds Its doctrines to all who will listen. ' i Mrs. Gordon while telling the stor of her life drew from her apron focket a clay pipe, filled 1t with tobgeco, and lighting it with a piece of paper which she had touched to a live coal in her firer said: -Well, boy, I've told yot enough. Go 'way and let me smoker I've smoked pipe for more than a hun dred years,' and I. can't stop it." First American Glaus,: From the Crockery and Glail Journal. The first American glasa factory was the slave of Mathtas Boone, a wealthy r. . it e th.t vte!nttf wh ... Hempehtre, "Washington. In his diary. A Draped Gown of .Tussore Silk Trimmed with Oriental Embroi deries. B jaunty Little Walking Suit of New Checked Cloth, Elaborately Braided. C Silver.Grey Silk Cashmere. - M a d e on a Semi-Empire Model. D.French Suit of Almond feen - Cloth of Original Design. , : E Novel Arrange ment of Sash Ends ' on a Simple After noon Frock, cotton plantar of that vicinity, who was an officer in the Continental army. "I was sold the first time," Mrs. Gor don said yesterdey, "to satisfy a sher iffs warrant My : Kllen was William mi as a dowry. 4. My new l&iZ?7YiZ? oe ZJtV"Jwmt have had an eye for tho beautiful Vlcksburg. Mississippi, a cotton grower, turing, that Robert Hewea of Boston be- In Bitirre, He-chose A spot oil the flOrttt I . wss put to work- weaving -cotton gan to carry .out the project which he slope of Kidder mountain, near Its cloth. I was married soon after i went bad Jong conceived, but had hitherto has. . To th northwest Mount Monad speaks of glass being made .In New Haven. Connecticut, In the year T r1 " , ' . "' . ' 1 ' ' ; :." ' ".. One would suppose bye the language his factory secure .from the- British nd forces (his glassblowera were Hessians nine and Waldeckers soldiers who had le- W master WSS . V.Dr. nr.vlmt. tn 4Hlu mnA it .-I . . eMnM lh. tl.l.l.k Jk Thati why I was sold at very war whose issue first enabled the ...... i .' ....-... resteraay, -to sausry a sner- une would suppose bye the languaa ant My master's dsughter hkt h rnnsldeea tt n.r . married -to a young planter. ne consider it a dew an lllss, nd I was given to them Quite extraordinary affair. It was nlii td MaMef Gordon's hom. W titn MI ..lmfrscticftW:.fr iiH' Impossible,' nock" rears his sratiHo crown, Wsndinc Children, but all except twn are desd. ' tinder. English rule-that of making' like a giant wntlne r to the nbrth, and Am . (Inrrlnn VmA With th I2nlrltfl sflaesai In A m das I si . i 1-4. . . i. n" .. i . - i - . X t.rfi L iVCT" .' "i,"""- "V""' I running raai.t are ii e i nip - iu...,,.- . mr -Tw-mm Hrum ,. -Aii au, unu.niBsua a git zor uuui. bold ana oreclDUoui; to uie east a beautiful valley holds In Its embrace the- towns of Wilton, Mil ford , and Nsshu. while to the northeast Joe Eng lish Hill and the Uncanernucka moun tains conceal the city of Manchester. The place -is how reached by a. two mile walk oxtt an old road, long' a Stranger to travel other than by grazing cows and nature loving tourists. The Stone, work about .the ovens and the -founds tlrm Of the 'building are all that now remain' t remind ua that here was Another example of the America!) peo ple's struggle for Independence. . , ... . .. V w ,
