THE pREGfrN 'SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTL ANP SUNDAY MORNING, MAY- 08.
mm
w
u - -v
Tlie Overskirt Is
ing in Popularity-:
trically Cut and
Elaborately
Trimmed
French Jackets
Are Worn
With ,Un
trimmed Skirts
1 p there's one thing" thai i of mure
importance than the front of the
"Easter gfrls gown, It is the beck
of It. .
No longer is It as it was "In the
Olden days" when all the thought arid
trimming were lavished on the front
: . ot a dress or suit, and the bach was left
t lake rare of Itself. Now the sue
cessf ul' designing of the back of a cos-
tame is oftentimes of the first impor
' , tance, for it Is there that opportunity
offers for all kinds of npveltles. Wlt-
hesa the Empire hark with Its quaint,
' hlgh-walatad girdle and pretty conceits
; of buckles and modish little bows. No-
tlee, too, the fashionable jackets of to
.? day with their over-elaborated buelts,
covered with braiding,' the short-wai.ued
lines accentuated by button and braid
' er satin ornament.
V , Waists of flimsy white materials are
: AO longer made with fronts a muss ot
line embroidery and carefully put to
gether laces, and the backs left for
saken with just a few meager tucks.
The smart waist of this summer's ward
robe shows the back a complete dupli
cate of the front, tuck for tuck, late for
lace. - Sad news for the clever girl who
'i makes her own blouses. Hut satisfying
to the eye.
. A charming back effect is shown in
the sketch lettered "C." In fact, the
: whole gown is on. simple but most ef-""ei-ttve
'lines, and Is a model "not at all
Impossible of successful copying by an
ordinarily clever home dressmaker.
The original was made of stiver gray
ilk cashmere and rombiiiwi many of
the latest effects In the sartorial world.
.'.'. It had the semi-Empire back, the skirt
Strikingly Grow-
Verv E
Many, Models of Draped Gowns
Are Among the .Very Newest
ImportationsFour Yokes of En
tirely . )iff ereht .Materials All
res si
satin ribbon which ends' in smashing
bow with fish-tail ends Under the left
ear or at the backnever In front..
AVorn by a pretty woman 4 they- are
charming, framing tlie-1 face In delicate
outline, and they seem to quite , ult
the quaint gowns the tailors and dress
makers are each day turning out.
The new model suits seem more ec
centric than ever as to -coats, flklrtg
ate plaited or plain, escaping the ground
well for street wear, and are sometime
unostentatiously trimmed, with wide
folds stitched on at the top. But hang'
Ing loose at the bottom. Braiding Is
really o.ult the smartest trimming
ccen- t&rzrz-
iiii ii i !
a, 'IOMsiBieii
m If ill riff I
I :;!! iii!P,lijl 'iiiii !!-!: M H
fine soutache braiding, put on In Intri
cate design. You ice, there is nothing
very sensational in the way of suit
skirts.
But my wordt as our Kngllsh friends
would say, the little jackets do make
up for them! I use the word little
advisedly, for such, slight, soft things
the coats of today aref Tailors have
discarded canvas and padding and make
no pretense of "tit "everything is In
the "hang." .
Hheulder seams seem to be things
or the past and Sleeves and jackets
are all eut in one, -with, of course, no
iiuium in me turn or the arm. In
fact, each day, sees sleeves molded
more tightly to ,tlie arm, although,
thank heaven! fashion has decreed that
elbow length or three-quarter sleeves
will be Worn until the autumn at least.
After that only the very wise dare
prophesy.
Two kinds of Moths of not neces
sarily the same shade Are often found
combined cleverly In a suit. A very
riood Illustration, of this may be seen
l the figure lettered "B." Here is the
Checked . cloth ' which will In the near
future entirely supersede the monotrw
, nous strides. Of khaki color, a shade
over which Paris Is Just now hsVlnk
fits of Joy, with a little darker over
check, It Is trimmed wtth a quite de-
. cldedly darker plain cloth around the
: bottom of the skirt.
The little coat, iUon In effort. Is ot
tus same plain cloth. It has epaulet
. effects formed of the dark cloth, over
the tos of the sleeves, which are of
the checked cloth. In the back two
long, slim coattatls are slipped under
a belt and hang; tar down on thn
skirt. Both the skirt and the jacket
sre heavily braided In soutache braid,
and a narrow rolled collar nnd how
of orange-Colored satin give a piquant
touch of Vivid color.
ji..noi)gh the lingerie waist t again
worn this season under jackets, and is.
If possible, more sheer and diaphanous
than ever, no longer are we to be al
lowed glimpses ' of charming lacy I in -
fterle and gleaming satin ribbons, for
ilgh-necked underwalsts of flesii-colored
silk Jersey will hide all their dntnttnes.
Hut on second consideration it is per
haps Just as well, for 1 hear that
threading white lingerie with black
ribbons Is a coming fad. We shall be
pared that funeral sight, at any rale.
apparently htiTtntKvr oHr car h hl', ti e
Bleeve cut In one with the .rest el in
w'Stst. the softly tntiling Hkirt, th. juk,,
folded girdle ami llio -shaped ok' or
lace, hack and .ront a fashion not new,
but one which is too generally becom
ing to be hantily discarded. The
!' touch of relieving color win gl-n
in the silk embroidered bands which
edged tlie yoke and trimmed the sleovcs
They combined dull blue, pink and gold
with a sure and happy effect.
Although the day of draped effects In
gowns has not dawned witlf nj- par
ticular burst of (tiory dn this, shlc of the
Atlantic, still each day's spring sun
Hhlne points out another model come to
Join the family of these artistic crea
tions. For that a gown depending for
erro-M on Its "Killful droning, if Well
i ' ' i f. ix ;i Hun- of deputy nohody can
"'eiiy Ii harily done but way talk
about unfortunate things':
A very skillful bit of draping Is shown
on the figure In the middle of the page.
The SK.it has one of the overskirt ef
f'cts. i lie vogite for which will "grow
wtth tlie warm weather, it is undoubt
edly designed for a woman of slender
figure. Hut who. now. with nny pre
tense of beinp faphlonnhle, owns tn
hips? They are extinct as the dodo.
The ricturf sque high waist line Is again
Heen In thin gown, but with the differ
ence that it does not become higher In
the .uk.
Four yokes, all of different fabrics,
lire not too many .o form part of your
n three1 vou must have at th
very least. In ibis gown lace, tucked
tulle and again lace, but of a different
mesh, frono tue overlaying yokes, Which
are, of course, sheer. In alt the lately
oisplayed roiu it is plainly seen that
yokes will play quite an important pert
during the coming months as in those
past. Yokes of lace, of tucked tulle, of
nei sna or
V-shaped, they will be cut In all shapes,
but not so deep as those seen In the
dresses of the past Winter. The very
high collars with points running up be
hind the ears which worn etK have been
torturing themselves by wearing are al
ready being modified. They still rise
high In the back, but In a gentle slope,
and the sham nolnts are absent. This
1 of silk tier with dots scattered Ms Siieotv p nt sMlf-nrsajtrvoMtn fnr
far apart, will all he Used. Klesh-col- who could have borne those chokers
orea net. stretched tightly to form a
yoke without luck or Insertion, Is seen
In msny gowns sent dut from Paris for
wear on formal occasions and very ef
fective It is.
As to the share of the yoke. It may be
whatever your fancy dictates, and yet
be fashionable. Square, round, oval -or around
during the hot weather months?
Kaster always brings some novelty In
neckwear.; Women must have some
thing to take the place, of the furs they
lay aside. This year great flaunting
ruffs at tulle, plaited in airy fashion.
re Being, worn. They fit up tightly
me
throat, being attached to a
ANIMALS LIKE
MUSIC '
. i-iy V, DaubrwM In fjt Revue.
The tatrsurdlnary musical -sensitive-
. rie.e of spiders baa several times been
proved. 'Kery one bs heard Of Fellis
iMiVspMtrr. ,HCohsrjlev if th -unfortii-'
rats rriauiiur, it- JJti Ishvii - because It .'
, teu&eJ too. closaly to the captive" lo
lln. The Jailer -saw It and crushed It
brutally. -
Oretry, the composer, speaks or a fa
vorite spider which descended along its
thread upon- his piano as soon as 1:-)
played it. When giving recitals at Hrtrs
sels RUbinstein saw a large spider iu
from the floor of the platform and Hk
ten to the music. He gave three con
certs at the, same hall and on each
occasion the Spider appeared.
lnnectslH general, t hough es'en
tlve to music, do not object to It. Fishes
betray little or no interest in music.
Kverybody. on tb other hand, probably
knows that music Is often used in order
to attract snakes from therr hiding,
places. - -
The Indians catch Iguanas.,-' In that
manner, and there Is an experiment that
we can all make to dernontrate the
truth . of the matter. If a violin or
piano is played whenever there is a
lizard visible U ' lizard will stop and
listen with obvious pleasure as long as
the music lasts.
It Is a well known fact that In those
countries where oxen are used for labor
they take great pleasure In the singing
of their driver. Ttiev work better t
the plough when mtirred by a cheerful
song. Arabs sine to their camels during
long Journeys neros the desert.
Horses are particularly sensitive to
music, riuehoftr whv carefully1 studied
the mattef, nuotes the following curious
fact; "In 1893 the Fifty-eighth regl-
fient of infantry was making a militarv
et . Inarch When the music struck UP
The roups horse O' fantaJiv De n-i-haatened
forward and placed itself. In
Pit of its rider, .behind Uu last xaak
of t ho mitsloUnp. Then It followed
peacefully, giving obvious signs of
pleasure
" iien the music censed the captain
v ns able to resume his place at the
bead of his company, wit the band
struck up BRain, and the horse, notwith
standing the efforts of Captain Pe.
. galloped ahead and ones more
placed itself behind the musicians. This
iiaj.pened every time th hand played,"
I-toiis hflve been fou rid to listen w-llh
marked Joj to thh piano. They appre
ciate Die top notes and the medium, but
roar terribly when the bass keys are
struck loudly.
Scarlatti, the Italian composer, owned
a cat which loved to walk on the kevs
of a piano arm struck certain notes In
iirinnirn 10 oiners. The composer took
those notes as the theme of one of his
fugues, which, for that reason, received
the name of "The Cat Fugue." I have
seen many cats walk up and down the
keyboard, showing obvious pleasure at
the sound thus produced.
The writer knowa of a do that will
i. n Jntf'",t.lv and e'lently to all melo
dies, but displays every symptom of
pain and agony at the sound of a chro-t
matle scale. This dog becomes ouiet as
soon ss the melody is agalfr taken up:
11 '".only the succession of semitone
Which makes So extraordinary an im
prPMInf) upon it. t know of snothef
dog which Is fond of organ music, but
walls terribly as soon as the Vox '
Celeste ston Is used. .5 . '. . -
If n wished to make serlos STcperl-men-t:in,musirai
psychnlogv. the dog
"'"' ""i- oouni nrov me most Inter
MtSng gtudy, -4 bm nxU( too,
would; be fascinating. Darwin mentions
a gihbon which was able trt sing a com
plete octave, and It is known that black
chlmpansees will gather to the number
of from JO to So and form a kind of
orchestra, beating pieces of hollow wood
with sticks for their own pleasure.
SMOKED PIPE i00
YEARS
From the Kansas' City Star.
At the foot of Lafayette avenue, Kan
sas City, Kansas, lives a hegro woman
who says sheris 125 year old and that
she can prove It: , lire. Nancy Gordon is
her name. She was born near Alexan
dria, Virginia, about 1712. She was
she moved to It little truck natch Jn
Warren county, Mississippi. She, with
her son, moved to Kansas City, Kansas,
14 years ago. She Is wrinkled and rheu
matic, but still retains all her faculties.
She (s an ardent Methodist and ex
pounds Its doctrines to all who will
listen. ' i
Mrs. Gordon while telling the stor
of her life drew from her apron focket
a clay pipe, filled 1t with tobgeco, and
lighting it with a piece of paper which
she had touched to a live coal in her
firer said: -Well, boy, I've told yot
enough. Go 'way and let me smoker
I've smoked pipe for more than a hun
dred years,' and I. can't stop it."
First American Glaus,:
From the Crockery and Glail Journal.
The first American glasa factory was
the slave of Mathtas Boone, a wealthy r. .
it e th.t vte!nttf wh ... Hempehtre, "Washington. In his diary.
A Draped Gown of
.Tussore Silk
Trimmed with
Oriental Embroi
deries. B jaunty Little
Walking Suit of
New Checked
Cloth, Elaborately
Braided.
C Silver.Grey Silk
Cashmere. - M a d e
on a Semi-Empire
Model.
D.French Suit of
Almond feen
- Cloth of Original
Design. , :
E Novel Arrange
ment of Sash Ends
' on a Simple After
noon Frock,
cotton plantar of that vicinity, who was
an officer in the Continental army.
"I was sold the first time," Mrs. Gor
don said yesterdey, "to satisfy a sher
iffs warrant My :
Kllen was
William mi
as a dowry. 4. My new
l&iZ?7YiZ? oe ZJtV"Jwmt have had an eye for tho beautiful
Vlcksburg. Mississippi, a cotton grower, turing, that Robert Hewea of Boston be- In Bitirre, He-chose A spot oil the flOrttt
I . wss put to work- weaving -cotton gan to carry .out the project which he slope of Kidder mountain, near Its
cloth. I was married soon after i went bad Jong conceived, but had hitherto has. . To th northwest Mount Monad
speaks of glass being made .In New
Haven. Connecticut, In the year T r1 " , ' . "' . ' 1 ' ' ; :." ' "..
One would suppose bye the language his factory secure .from the- British
nd forces (his glassblowera were Hessians
nine and Waldeckers soldiers who had le-
W master WSS . V.Dr. nr.vlmt. tn 4Hlu mnA it .-I . . eMnM lh. tl.l.l.k Jk
Thati why I was sold at very war whose issue first enabled the ...... i .' ....-...
resteraay, -to sausry a sner- une would suppose bye the languaa
ant My master's dsughter hkt h rnnsldeea tt n.r .
married -to a young planter. ne consider it a dew an
lllss, nd I was given to them Quite extraordinary affair. It was nlii
td MaMef Gordon's hom. W titn MI ..lmfrscticftW:.fr iiH' Impossible,' nock" rears his sratiHo crown, Wsndinc
Children, but all except twn are desd. ' tinder. English rule-that of making' like a giant wntlne r to the nbrth, and
Am . (Inrrlnn VmA With th I2nlrltfl sflaesai In A m das I si . i 1-4. . . i. n" .. i . - i - .
X t.rfi L iVCT" .' "i,"""- "V""' I running raai.t are ii e i nip - iu...,,.-
. mr -Tw-mm Hrum ,. -Aii au, unu.niBsua a git zor uuui. bold ana oreclDUoui; to uie east
a beautiful valley holds In Its embrace
the- towns of Wilton, Mil ford , and
Nsshu. while to the northeast Joe Eng
lish Hill and the Uncanernucka moun
tains conceal the city of Manchester.
The place -is how reached by a. two
mile walk oxtt an old road, long' a
Stranger to travel other than by grazing
cows and nature loving tourists. The
Stone, work about .the ovens and the
-founds tlrm Of the 'building are all that
now remain' t remind ua that here was
Another example of the America!) peo
ple's struggle for Independence. .
, ... . .. V w ,