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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (March 22, 1908)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY ' EIORNING, . MARCH . 22. ; 1903 . A. Hi if SS 71 THERn ! bo more attfaetivo , gift, for- householder than a handsome centerpiece, and the ' design shown today U : pot feot in drawing, grace of lint and originality of aordsr. It U tho bean- : tlful custom of lb Germans to glvo Easter presents, Just as, wa - glvo Christmas prostata, ad today'a da Ign ta tdaai .tor tho purpose. , The centerpiece In question la work ad lor tha long-and-ahort stitch, fag oting ' and buttonholing, tha flrat In ; tha lilies, tha aacond'la tho stems, unless tha ootid atltch U preferred, and tho third on tho border. Tho petals of tho flower epuld only bo dona In tho stlteU suggested or Franch knots, for thsy glvo tho Impression ' of depth toward tho canter, but tho atema and tha outalde line of eaoh blossom and tho buda would bo per fection done In tho aolld atltch, In-esse of tho conterpUeo being too email thO outalde odgo might bo out even and wide cluny lace aewod oa aa a fin I h. In thla way tho centerpiece could bo made aa large M ono could dealro, depending oa tho width of tho lace. In sewing tha latter on, how ever, U ahould flrat bo basted, to It may bo absolutely certain not to bind in any way.; otherwise the affect will be spoiled. ' In making up ouch a rarely beauti ful design It would bo the greatest pity to Introduce any color Into tho work. Such a virgin subject ahould bo treated ta tho deadeat Of ell floaa or mercerised cotton, and tho fonn datloa ahould bo only - pure wblto linen. The lace may bo ecru, If e alred. When the embroidered edg la pre ferred tbo atiiched ahould bo mltared at tho corner, ao that they will not , make too aqoare aa affect; and aorae tlmag lace aewed tmiii tbo la aide line, leaving tha aquareo to over lap when they will, makea most attraotlva flnlah to tbo centerpiece. . Solid Trench knots might bo most attractive way to embroider tho poU ale of the lilies, particularly If tho atema are embroidered la tho fagot stitch or cross stitch, as ahowa la the illustration. Tho knots would give tho flower a raised appearance, and tbey alwaya aid In maklbg work look lacy and attractive. In using allk for the embroidery a heavy white twisted floss Is best, but when colors are chosen, of course tho flowers must be white, but tho pls tHi and atamans should bo' yellow. To be properly arranged tho Inter twining atema and the buda ahould be In light green, while the border, mar be flnlaiied la any shade that suits tbo taste of tbo embroiderer. AN ECONOMICAL LAYETTE THEftS are many economical waya of making a layette, or infant trouasean, but tho dreases found to bo moat satisfactory are thoao made wttA a shirred yoke. These are cut something on tho order of a woman's chemise and the neck Is about the aamo also. Tho Sleeves arc cut so that tho top flta lato tho neck Una. Then a yoke about three inchea deep Is cut out In, paper and fastened to both aides of tho back and tho middle of tho front and the dreaa la shirred to fit When finished tha shirring la atitched by machine, through paper and all to keep tho gath ering threads from breaking, and If tho machine stitching Is found, unsightly, feather stitching may cover tho line. It all sounds like a great deal of work, but a baby's yoke la very email, and It takes hot nearly so much time as ono would expect. Tho advantage of tho ahlrred yokes Is that, after tho baby haa grown, the etltcbing may bo taken out and the yoke mado larger. This need not bo for some time, particularly If the sleeves are cut about ono Inch too long. The extra ma terial may be taken up In three email tucks and they may be let out when necessary. Fine coata are best made In small box pleats over the ahoulder. back and front, for when tha time cornea every other one may bo lot out and tho coat made many sises larger. For tha length of the sleeves, sometimes a little extra ma terial la left over and gathered at tho top, ao the aleeve haa only to be ripped out to ba made larger. Other women prefer the tuck above the cuff, and thla la after the most convenient method. To make the coat larger one haa only to rip the ahoulder seams and tucka and the work la dona. Many mothera are now making axil tho babies dresses short, unless born In midwinter, for there is alwaya the risk of cold when changing the length, while If they alwaya wear fairly abort dresses they get used to It But It seems a pity to do away with the long Infant dreaaea, and perhaps It la better to keep to the old way. For tho first few months white petti coats are a luxury, not a necessity, and It la a good plan to wait till the dresses aro shortened and then make ono waist for both white and flannel skirt Tho waist Is easily mado when out double, and after the aide seams are sewn tho two thicknesses aro stitched all round, leaving only tho waist line. When fin ished tho tiny garment can bo turned right aids out and no bindings and hems will be necessary, and the double mus lin makea a satisfactory waist, for It la not Quito so thick aa flannel and la yet not too thin. Tha first flannel skirts must be mado on their" own flannel waists and thO edges bound with galon. When tho sec ond dresses aro put on the long skirts may bo cut In half to make two short skirts. For this resson It is well to cat- Embroidered Pajamas NEW pajamas for women aro mado collarless and with fathered sleeves, while white allk frogs fasten them down tho front which Is embroidered In a hugs but graceful de sign. On tho Whole, pajamas aro but the natural things for women to wear, for they aro both comfortable and economical, and at the aamo time easy to make. It takes lees material to make a very good-looking pair of pajamas than It doss to make a really pretty nightgown, and a little work will show on tho former to much better ad vantage than a great deal of embroidery on tho latter. Boms white linen pajamas aro shown embroidered in poppy design down the front and around the cuffs, only tho popples Instead of being done in red allk are worked out in white mercerized cot ton. A heavy padding under the flow ers gives them a moat fascinating ap pearance, and makea the garment look Oriental in every line. Another attractive design for thla pur pose ia a large chrysanthemum design, worked in yellow mercerised cotton, with paleat green for sterna- It Is really a very good combination, and no woman yet who has ever tried wearing pajamas has been willing to go back to tbe old fashioned nightdress. oulata bow long tho short skirts should bo when msklng tho long ones, always arranging that tho hem In tho lower half of tho latter need not bo ripped and that tho gfthera may stay In tbo upper half, Thla loaves only ono hem ming and one gathering to bo done for two petticoats. Aa infant scannot wear tho first site clothes for mors than six months at tho outside, and It Is therefore economy to makO them so that they will last at leaat a year, particularly when It la ao eaay. To Sew Hooks on Dresses IK 8EWINO en hooka, whether used In connection with eyes or peete, always spread the hooks, all sites, before aewlng on; It not only makes the strain come on different parts of the material, but it prevents them from pushing forward and showing at the edges of collars, plack ets and such things. When sewing them on a boned lin ing the bone can be slipped between the front curves and back of the book, after they have all been sewn on, making it very taut, thus aavlng the labor of fastening the bono In tho usual way. It must, of course, bo fastened at either end after It Is In serted, otherwise it will come entire ly off during the process of hooking the dress. Hand-Embroidered Bibs OF COURSE, we want tho dainti est and the best for our precious babies, and are always ready with willing hands to mako for them tho prettiest according to our . individual Ideas of beauty, but when It comes to that useful but not poetlo article of apparel, tho bib. It is best to let common sense take the lead. However, dainty and at the same time serviceable bibs can be made by first making one of heavy padding, bound by tape and thick enough to keep dry the warm flannels and white dress beneath them. To hide this useful but unornamental necessity, make a cover of handkerchief linen, the edgea scal loped wth mercerised cotton and a sim ple design embroidered In the center. Nothing could be In better taste than baby's own monogram, and it haa the added advantage of being easily done. Real Lace, Ancient and Modern N4 ?! ' : i ... V Design Outlined Iri Thread WHEN the lacemakeri and nuns of Italy had elaborated ve-' netlan polot in almost every conceivable way, rose point had been Invented, with ita many no cords or "brides" and its snow foundations. As time went on -the work on this became .more and more minute, until the laceworkers began to make a fine net, all with the point of the needle, as a foundation for the many beau tiful designs of the day. In thla the cordonet, or outlining cord, was omit ted, and each tiny hexagonal mesh was made by four to eight stitches on a aide, arranged in loops and twists. This ground was worked around the design, or ''to lie," and it was called the reeeau. Grounded Venetian point was the most beautiful lace that had ever been made at that time about the 'sixteenth century and its manu facture continued in Venice until the I Erench Hevolution, when commerce Lffvas interrupted and all lacemaklng ' Btnnnsd. excentlns' in Rurano. This little Island is one of the Ve netian group, but it is quite detached from the restof the olty, and here a few peasants pacidly worked on fairy fabrics while all Europe .was involved Jn the great civil war. ' The lace made In Buraoo was not, however, of the best quality; the reseau was hot the finest end the thread was rather Inferior, but the lactmakers plied their trade, although in a desultory way, and tha Venetians quite lost the art and turned their talents to Other things. But in tho winter of 1878 tho lagoons " of Burano froze over for the first time In the memory of man. and the natives, who earned their living bv fishing, were suddenly thrown out of work and dire poverty stared them In the face. Their predicament came to the notice of the government, and Queen Margherita, wife of Humbert, decided to revive lacemaklng so the peasants of northern Italy would have some source of revenue not dependent upon the weather. By that time there Vas but one woman left in Burano Who knew the art, and she, CencJa Scarpariola, was so old that although she could make lace, she could not impart her knowl edge; but the good queen found some clever young girls, who watched the old woman at her work, and between them they found how it was done. Thus lacemaklng was revived in Italy. Grounded Venetian point, or "point plat a reseau," is made in four stages, first, the design Is drawn and pricked In the parchment, and the outlining threads are sewed through parchment and linen, as in "gros point de venise," but In the grounded point the threads are fine, for the work is without cordonet In the next stage the fine mesh is worked in around the design, then the design is done, and. laatly. the filling in of the design with a fairy mesh called "ajours." At present one may visit the lace shops In Venice and see the wonderful material being made by little girls of 8 and 10, for a laceihaker usually plies her trade between the ages of 8 and 18 only.. After that her eyea aro not so good and her fingers not so pliable, .. Offly The Finishing Touch e6 To Be Added Nevv N A SOFA cushion cover must have Vl A ) been a almple thing originally. f J J J J but Its evolution has been rapid JsO,! 2 -y and complicated. The average man, Tx. y """"" 1 when he gases with dismay at the V V?A. - 1 objets d'art pilsd la careful confusion upon his once shabbily comfortable I vSr lounge of divan, Is not spt to appro- 1 I I I I elate thai present perfection, but 1 I i 1 5 I I moot women do. 1 1 1 I VQ I I Lo dernier cri In eushlon covers seems I 1 ' c4 I I to be those embroidered m ribbon work i A Pe&tQned bv Ella Svdnev anrf I I and appllqued with velvet bands or curl- I I "e'9n(' pr u"f oyane ana I I ous designs outlined In heavy gilt I IS. Adapted TO Embroidery b j f thread, giving tho empire touch that . I 1 t c I y I I seems to bo on everything these dsys. I 1 S J Cmily Z immttlTI3fi I J Another pillow top was mado of five I Tli l(A I f squares Of filet lace surrounded by me- ill I InlmJll II dallions of cluny and the intervening til I f II Jl'l 11 li spaces filled with white linen worked In J lr7 if fflli l I 11 7 i it. J Call TheFimsheHLdce Point de Ventse a Re&Btt . 1 'A" ' Embroidered Frock at Small Cost : model It Is only necessary to m broiderv the front panel leaving the feat of the dresa plain, and the busiest -girl In the world could surely find time to do this much work Without neglecting her duties at homo w abroad. , i ONE of the most popular mate rials for summer is dotted Swiss, and this year It la Shown in all sorts of designs and colors. Sprays of rosebuds, lilacs, forget-me-nots, shaded dots, em broidered rings, anything serves to make still more beautiful this dur able and pretty fabric. But all of these new ideas are rather expensive, too mucb so, indeed, tor the average pocketbook. while the old-fashioned plain white dotted swiss is well with" In the reach of most women. A most attractive frock can be mado by selecting a swiss where dots aro ' rather widely scattered and basting around each dot a circle of colored thread, dark blue, light blue or pink. Thus a really hand-embroldered v Coiffure Decorations t TTHE fashion of decorating the hair I seems to have returned to popu , larity, and (he most attractive butterfly may be made at homo of 'ahlrred chiffon on a wire frame and wings edged with spangles of peacock green. ' i - , A white butterfly may be made of tulle and edged all round with Imi tation pearls or white paillettes. It dress may be had at no cost at all is a clever Idea when using any light and the little embroidery may bo done material to first wrap the wire witfr Ifi heavy silk floss If desired, giving ' kae dress the appearance Of mousse line de sole. As for a design for a dress of ' this kind, what ould bo prettier ' than ono of tho semt-prla- ' cess variety. With a long panel down the front from neck to hens and tho sMes tackedt In . making - up this white radium silk or buck satin, if . black material Is to bo used, il .ny wreaths, too, aro made of sin fiowon. or, more properly, ribbon flownrs, wt i also hare their foundation a v - . frame. A rose Is cleverly mado of f t satin ribbon twisted around t I ).. i In the middle by a litil roiclii br -;-low baby nbbofc. if
